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Next project is a Tigger vacuform F11F Tiger built as a Blue Angels airplane. For this WIP I'll start with some basic vacuform techniques. Later I'll get into the 3D printed parts, then finally the painting. OK, first the obligatory "start of project" shot: All I've done so far is cut out the wheel wells. I made a template based on the drawings and photo references, then traced around the template with pencil and extra-fine tip marker. I cut out the wells using a Trumpeter scribing tool and lengths of Dymo labeling tape. This preserves the door and gives me the option of using that part later if I decide I don't want to print one instead. Later I'll have to cut out the openings for the cockpit, intakes, cannons and exhaust. I might cut out the NACA scoops as well, as I did with the Honey Badger project. Before I get too far here's my setup for removing the parts from their sheets. I've clamped a piece of MDF board (a thick one so it's nice and flat) to my bench. I duct-taped a sheet of 220 grit sand paper to the board. First step is to draw around the parts with a black marker. I use a Sharpie fine point marker. Second step is to cut around each part. I use a box cutter with a sharp new blade. Be careful here! Leave about a 1/4 inch brim around each part. For most parts it helps to make a handle out of duct tape. For the fuselage I made two handles since it's a long part. This just helps prevent sanding off the ends of your fingers. A close-up of the part ready to be sanded: NOTE: The part has to be extricated in this tedious way. DO NOT try to cut the part out instead. If you do it'll be the wrong size and won't fit right. Sand the part down. Circular motions are best. After a while you'll start seeing the black ink showing through the UNDERSIDE of the brim. Use this as a gauge to ensure you're sanding the part down evenly. Periodically check the underside of the brim, and if you see some of it is whiter than the rest then that means you need to press harder there. Eventually the brim will get very thin and will either fall off or can be easily peeled off. Thick objects, like fuselages, come out pretty straight, right-sized, and ready for action. Some thin parts, like fighter jet wings and tails, can be too thick for scale. In that case you'll either need to shape it with more sanding or 3D print a replacement. In this case the vertical tail looks usable (I'll 3D print a new rudder for it), but the horizontal tails will be easier to 3D print. This airplane has very thin wings, and I have't decided yet if I'll be using the vac parts or printing my own. One thing to consider here is that the parts printed on a resin printer will be heavier than the plastic parts. The weight will add up and eventually you'll have to worry about the strength of the landing gear which will also be printed. -- Dave

A couple years ago I spotted this airplane at the Nellis AFB airshow. Obviously someone has to build one! It's an L-159 operated by Draken International. Draken calls it the Honey Badger. Tigger has a vacuform model of an L-39 in 1/32 scale, and that's close enough to a Honey Badger to be the basis for a conversion. This is my first vacuform build, so it's going to be a wild ride. The Tigger L-39 parts: Not shown here are the two copies of the canopy. The barrel looking bit at bottom right is both left and right engine inlets. The fuselage almost ready to glue together: I applied some bondo to the rudder to thicken that part up. When I sand the rudder down to give it a sharp trailing edge I want to have some material there to keep from making a hole. I'm not going to build inlet ducting, but I did add a thin inner wall that will simulate the ducting. I also (later) painted the inside of the fuselage black from there back to keep inquisitive eyes from seeing what's not there. I added a cradle to hold up the front end of the tailpipe which will be made from 3/4 inch thin plastic tube. Also added are tabs on both halves of the fuselage for gluing. I've already cut the nose off in preparation for measuring the section shape so I can 3D print a new nose. Fuselage halves joined today. I've printed up two fuel tanks, two pylons for the right wing, and an ejection seat. I plan on loading the airplane with two fuel tanks, an AIM-9M and a TCTS pod, so the outermost pylons won't be needed. I don't plan on making a centerline pylon either. There is still a lot of designing and printing to do: landing gear, nose, tip tanks, and cockpit bits. Fortunately the printed parts sit ahead of the CG, so the heavy resin parts will help keep the nose down. I already made one mistake today. I painted the seat beige as was shown in the one photo I've found of the whole seat. I think the Draken airplanes have grey seats. And speaking of the seat, does anyone know who makes the seat and whether there are any aftermarket seat belts that would fit it? Shown are the colors I'm planning to use, Vallejo 71.074 Beige, 71.125 USAF Brown, 71.056 Panzer Dk. Grey. The decals are going to be a challenge

I finally completed my 1/32 Saab J29A Tunnan. The basic ID Models / Tigger vacuform was the basis but it needed a lot of scratch building. Check out how I made the rudimentary vacuform at: https://designer.hom...32/j29-32-1.htm or go directly to the page 5 to see the end-result.... https://designer.hom...32/j29-32-5.htm Hope you like it and inspires modellers to do make a J29 in this scale! Meindert