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Here is my first RFI on the site, proof that I actually have built some models more to come at later stages as I get pics taken. This aircraft is a Bf109G-14/AS from 4./NJG11 (or 5./NJG11 depending on sources). SAM Publications Modellers Datafile "The Messerschmitt Bf109 Part 2 'F' to 'K' variants has an image of the aircraft found in a hangar at the end of the war on page 55 of that book as well as a colour side-view on page 93. Some would have this as possibly a G-6/AS variant, but in my research the presence of the larger Fo987 oil cooler which is quite evident on the image puts this as a G-14/AS, as the G-6's used the smaller Fo870 oil cooler. But hey, I might be totally off the mark! I used the AIMS Decals "Late war 109's" decal sheets as a basis to cut my masks for all the insignia. Parts List: Revell Bf109G-6 "Late and early version" A.M.U.R Reaver Resin cowling and spinner/prop blades Barracuda Studios resin wing inserts, large oil cooler, tall tail wheel, MLG wheels AIMS Late war 109 decals (basis for masks), exhaust stacks, hatches and latches(to modify the filler cap locations for this a/c) HGW Rivet/control surfaces set (for Hasegawa, bit of fettling to make it work on the Revell kit), seatbelts and Bf109 stencil set OWL Fug217 antenna and exhaust stack covers (all now sadly OOP). Some Fug 217 were SB to replace broken parts Master Brass barrels Eduard Instrument panel and Brassin U/C legs Quickboost Revi C/D gunsight MDC Drop tank and centreline mount/braces Noy's Miniatures Luftwaffe Hangar for the photo's All paint/markings/spirals - Gunze Laquers. RLM76 overall Might be a bit more small things I've forgotten about, but hope you all enjoy Thanks for looking Iain

I've always liked the '162, it's a pretty sleek looking jet. It appears that it was a rather good aircraft to fly, with Eric Brown noting that it was manoeuvrable and fast. If it wasn't for the fact that dodgy glue led to parts falling off them, sometime with fatal consequences, it might have been an excellent fighter. Another short coming was it's limited fuel endurance. The Revell kit appears to be basic, but nice enough. I haven't decided on a French of captured Air Min aircraft yet. I also transferred the plastic to a better box as the Revell side opening ones are not the best.

Hi everyone, Sadly I have to report that my hands are wreaked, in particular my dominant right hand. The Carpal tunnel op has not helped and it is the surgeons opinion that the Median nerve has been crushed for far too long. I am hoping to get an appointment with a university professor dealing with nerve regeneration but no news so far. I have enough strength to cast using much softer silicone moulds than before but the packing / folding / using computer is the killer. So I am back but slow, less hours and in lots of pain. So that is that I do what I can for now. So.... I have just sent off to Hannants 18x PR IV/1G and 30x PR XI sets which wiped me out of the PE component parts and the next PE stock will be here by mid November. If you can get from Hannants great but if you want to pre-order direct from myself the PR IV/1G set is £29.00 and the PR XI set is £34.00. Sorry but you would not believe the costs involved. To order email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com thanks My special thanks to Thierry for his patience and excellent achieve material without which the finer details of these complicated birds could not have been achieved. My special thanks also to Tore Martin for without his excellent work on the canopies we would not have these vacform designs perfect to scale One or two decal options may interest you on my AIMS sheet 32D025 but if you ever got the PR sets from Alister you will remember that you also have excellent decal spares in the AllyCat sets. I will so another Monotone Spitfire sheet as and when I am in less pain. Thanks everyone

After the pink panther I found this bird in the same book This set a flame to model it as the image is in colour and I have done a PRU blue bird yet. Having secured 2 more Revell IXc boxings I pulled one out and set about working out the best way forward. I then turned to our forums for more inspiration and help and discovered this thread and comments. Has anyone tried the Alleycat Spitfire PR.XI conversion?? So now ordered said set from AlleyCat and awaiting its arrival, but also dug out a Revell Mk.IIa kit as well on MikeC thoughts. Now I really enjoy birds with unusual camo and markings so a Vc from Malta is a perfect buddy for the PR. Now to the scary bits... The Grey Matters wrap round canopy doesn't touch the sides in the IX fuselage, not even close, BUT its much closer in the Mk.IIa fuselage as this has the earlier more rounded screen. The Mk.Vc spits only had the later canopy so a perfect swap of fuselages EXCEPT they are different length due to the changes in engines, but are the same profile from the engine firewalls back. Deep breath and Razor saw out... Side by side First cut is the deepest Joined Pretty chuffed with outcome. Just need to find a juicy Malta scheme for the Vc now. BTW the wings mixed up are a perfect fit, so other than a little rescribing for the PR non gunned wing and drilling the cannon ports on the Mk.II lower section we are looking good.

OK. Another mini review on parts for the Revell 1/32 scale F-4E/F/G and RF-4C/E Phantom II kits. I have been seeking a set of resin intakes to remedy the well known intake issues with all current 1/32 scale kits. The Tamiya kits are not quite as bad as the Revell kits. At least Tamiya gave us some internal trunking we could work with right? To date the only sets I was aware of were the GT Resins set that has not been in stock at Sprue Brothers for quite some time or the Sierra Hotel set that it would seem is only available once a year at the IPMS National show. I just got a set of intakes from Real Model 2020 in the Czech Republic. These are the ones that eoyguy has mentioned on several threads. They look great. Sorry about the pictures, but I have a lighting problem due the storm shutters on the house. We are currently expecting some horizontal rain from Hurricane Ida tomorrow (not as bad as New Orleans) but being as we are close to the cone of error, we decided to put the Kevlar covers up just to be on the safe side. At any rate, these remind me of the Seamless Suckers intakes for the Tamiya kits back around 2002 or so. They are cream colored and have petite but crisp panel lines. The instructions indicate a pretty simple installation procedure with a minimum of cutting. The set comes with the splitter plates as well as two engine faces. Intake Tops: Intake Sides: Note the bottom one is faded out due to lighting issues. It is as well detailed as the top one. Intake Bottoms: Again the one on the left is faded out due to lighting issues. Engine Faces and Splitter Plates They even caught the differences on the two fairings on the bullet of the J-79 turbine face used by the USAF due the explosive cartridge engine starting system even though this will never be seen once they are installed. I also picked up their outer pylon set. These are done in gray resin with very sharp panel lines and very good details on the under side of the pylon. The website for Real Model 2020 is https://realmodel.cz/ I think they have a store on eBay as well. miloslav1956 I ordered my sets form their website with out any problems. It only took two weeks for the package to travel from Prauge Czech Republic to Pensacola Fl. 8 Days was waiting on a flight to New York City which I figure is pretty much standard any more. Hope this was of some help and have a great day. Mark.

A few days ago in a thread about seamless intakes for the Revell 1/32 F-4 Phantom II kits Seamless intakes Revell F-4 I mentioned some update sets for Revell’s 1/32 F-4E/F/G and RF-4C/E Phantom II kits. Specifically a nose cone correction set from QMT and a landing gear set from Aerocraft Models. I thought I should get some photos up just in case anyone is interested. First off the brass landing gear set from Aerocraft models. Website is here https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/ Here is the Aerocraft Models nose gear, center, compared with the Revell kit’s gear, left, and Scale Aircraft Conversions on the right. This shows the Aerocraft Models main landing gears on the outside compared to the Scale Aircraft Conversions main landing gears on the inside. The SAC gears are direct copies of the Revell kit’s main landing gears and you can see that the Aerocraft Models landing gears are 3 mm shorter than the SAC or Revell ones. As I stated on the other thread these gears are very stout and address the main issues with the Revell kit’s landing gears. The QMT (Quick Model Details) nose cone set will improve the flat and pointy nose cone issues with the Revell kit’s parts to a great degree. True it is not a total fix but it does improve the look of the kit to a great degree without any cutting or filling… Website is here http://q-m-t.cz/ The only possible draw back is that it does not include the early F-4E cannon muzzle faring. They sell that as a seperate set. QMT nose on left Revell kit part on right. Nose cone in place on Revell F-4E kit nose (QMT is the cream colored nose cone):

Happy to announce a World War 2-era British 18-inch Mk.XV torpedo is now available in 1/32 scale. Commonly launched from Bristol Beaufighter maritime strike aircraft and motor torpedo boats, the Mk.XV was the standard airborne torpedo used by British and Commonwealth forces in the latter half of the war. The Mk.XV was a "wet-heater"-type torpedo, 206.7 inches (525.1 cm) in length, 17.69 inches (44.9 cm) in diameter, delivering 545 pounds (247 kg) of Torpex explosive at 40 knots. In 1/32 scale, the model is 16.4 cm long.

Admin/Moderators, please move to correct area if this isn't appropriate place. I’m really wondering if I need to clear out some of my stash of older kits. I know most the old Revell 1/32 kits date from the 60s and have been reissued several times AND by and large been eclipsed by far better kits. The only one I’m not sure about is the Revell Hurricane Mk I. IIRC, the molds were modified to produce the cannon equipped version Mk II. Is that right? I have fond memories of building the Corsair, P-40, P-47, Typhoon, Spitfire Mk I, Wildcat, Stuka and Zero and maybe others…and may even build the P-40 as a lark as I remember it being a decent looking model…despite being an E in AVG markings. What about the SBDs? Former Matchbox IIRC. Neither opened, but expect them to be of the same era and lacking as badly as the P-47 and P-51B. Same with the P-38J kit. Having the Trumpeter, I doubt I’ll build one and don’t need two. On the old Hasegawa and Hasegawa/Minicraft kits, they are largely of the early seventies. Are the old M-109E and Fw190s decent kits? I’m not much of a German a/c builder, though thinking these might be good projects to learn on. While improvements over the Revell kits, are they reasonable accurate or do they have major shape/fit issues? I think the 109G14 is a much later and better kit. Is that true? I found a 2002 date on it versus 60/70s on the others. How does the Zero compare to the Revell? What about the Oscar? These were is sealed clear poly bags I didn’t want to open so hard to compare. I certainly have a surplus of Hasegawa P-51Ds and will be shedding some of them. im working my way through Scalemates looking at various boxing’s and original tool dates. At the moment, nothing is for sale or trade, but some soon will be once I get educated a bit more. I acquired many of these from a good friend who was a retired USAF F-106/F-15 pilot and retired FedEx Captain. He died in a small plane crash a couple of years ago and his wife gave me all his kits which accounts for me having multiples. Nothing is up for sale or trade at the moment. I will list it here first when I decide what I'm doing with which kit and gauge if there is any market for these or if postage will be more than they are worth. I am hanging on to my new Hasegawa P-47s (3). I would appreciate your feedback. H-278 and 04781 H-296 and 04722 Both 04711 4749 and H-280 H-283 and H-279 H-295 and H282 (two) H-217 JS-060 and JS-073 JS-070 and JS-060 JS-086 x2 and (not shown 1086 x3) Both JS-060:400 JS-073 and ST18:4200

Kit - Revell Paint - All Tamiya acrylics. Decals - Kit & HAD Extras - Yahu pre-painted IP, Eduard pre-painted harness. Various wiring, junction boxes etc from scratch. Been a couple of years since my last 1:32 build (a Trumpeter 109E), no particular reason just other shiny things grabbed my attention. Not going in to any detail at all about the history of this particular machine, it's very well documented, as for the build, well it's a 'curates egg' of a kit - good points: well the undercarriage bays and gear detail are superb enough to keep most folks happy, but I added all sorts of wiring and junction boxes up inside which may never be seen but I know they're there. The cockpit is very good and didn't really need the Yahu IP that I added, purely because sausage fingers and middle-aged eyesight mean I can't get that sharpness that I once did by hand-painting. I expected the fit of the engine nacelles to be utterly horrid but I'm pleased to report that on my kit at least they were pretty close to perfect. KIt decals were put to one side except for all the stencils which worked fine for me. I'm not a fan of RoG Instructions but these were OK with only the one blunder which most builders will have heard about so not going to repeat it here. Bad points:- It may have been just my kit but I spent a shed-load of time, effort and putty blending the various nose sections together, the fit was very '1980's' if you get what I mean, most of the reviews out there don't mention this, but then most are of the earlier two-seater kit so maybe there's a difference in QC. The underside join between the front of the lower wing and forward fuselage still isn't right to my eye, but I was running out of patience at that point - so I admit to getting it to 'that'll do' as opposed to 'yeah that's spot-on'. Paint is all Tamiya acrylics mixed using the Mk.I eyeball method, aircraft specific decals are HAD, first time using this company and the quality, opacity and adhesion is simply astonishing. So that's it, there's a few 'user errors' in the build including having to scratch-build a new slat as the carpet monster got a hold of one, also I thinned the undercarriage pegs a little too much so it's prone to wobbling on it's legs, but I really like it, and it has a shed-load of presence sitting in my cabinet. Please feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or criticism. All the best from NZ. Ian. (edited - hopefully the photos show now)

I'd been looking for this kit and happen across one at the LHS, second hand and water damaged, but the price was right (20 bucks). The decals were no good, but I've got plenty of those. I will probably build it with the wings folded and I'm not sure about the colour scheme at the moment, but I'll work that out as I go along. Here's what I'm working with.

What to do after you realise that some of them are way to shallow to hold a wash but you've already painted, decaled and sealed with a coat of clear. Sharpened pencils? Thoughts? Cheers Bevan

Excellent , not done a group build ever , but this gives me a great excuse to have a crack at this over the Xmas break having sat on the shelf for three months . I assume it fits within the rules ?

Final entry from me for this GB , as this is the last LSP left in my stash * and I feel I'm on a roll with this aircraft malarky at the moment . I built this same kit a couple of years ago and got quite wrapped up in the history of the pilot . This time I'm going to have a think about backdating this to an MK1 as I'm told the differences were mostly to do with where they were built as much as anything too striking visually , but any advice appreciated . NS3200 or maybe P9374 as there is a lot of references out there. It will also be interesting for me to compare where I was in 2019 and where I am now, modelling wise . * I know.... such an LSP amatuer...honestly.......... I have a lot of stuff in the stash but it's all the wrong one thirty-something So obligatory box shot to commence .

So in keeping with the GB's theme I've going along with a duel build/s. First up is Revell's Spitfire IXc along with the normal am etc. I'm attempting to build it as a little dio as per these photo's I have a resin pilot thats pretty close to the first photo and should work well? Its also a chance to have the flaps down and displayed and I have a set in the stash! It also helps that I wont have to worry about the undercarriage, which is my least liked job of any build For my second build its Hasegawa's Fw 190A-8 again with a bundle of am. for this one it will be a scheme I found on an aeromaster sheet in 48th, and found reference (although no actual photos exist) in Luftwaffe's last hope book (along with the Spit). Again this was a downed plane so may well do another little dio. Yesterday I started on the pe for the flaps... 3 hours work but looking good? Aaron

Well, since Duchess Arlene is getting close to wrapping up, time to start a new build! This time found a completely NON-NMF Mustang in one of the kit's marking options: Capt Hershel Pascoe's Desert Rat. Can't really remember if I've ever done a 'D' model that didn't have some NMF on it so this will be fun. Looking forward to working on faded finishes. Notice in BOTH of the pictures below how glossy the wing is. In both pictures you can see the reflections from the fuselage markings. Something to keep in mind for the finish... Also have collected a rather insane amount of AM of which I will use liberally on this build, and whatever is left maybe I'll use on my last Revell Mustang in the closet. I've also already liberated a few Eduard PE pieces left over from Duchess Arlene too. This will be an interesting conglomeration of bits... I think we've seen this before... Had the kit for probably 2 years? Got it for $20 in Chattanooga. I think I've tripled (at least) the cost just in AM... Picked up a lot of these bits in Telford over the years, esp the CMK and RB Productions pieces. Really wanted to give Radu's weathered floorboards and his resin bits a try... Did the typical wash and dry... Not nearly as many bits as with the Tamiya kit, as we know. Missing are the two sets of sprues for the wheels/drop tanks... The clear parts are still a problem but I'll get to that later. Here are Radu's worn Mustang Floorboard decals which I've wanted to try for a while. Prepped the floorboard with a coating of Vallejo Gloss Black Primer, the green is MRP Interior Green. Radu's decals are SHINY and very smooth. I angled the floor to catch the light to show how shiny they are. I may do a quick review on them, but definitely this is one of the times when it pays to follow directions. For a flat surface I normally would not put down Decal Solution, and Radu specifically says NOT to use a setting solution under his decals. After applying I pressed them down over the floor detail with a damp paper towel. After drying for a day I sprayed them with a clear matte: Not sure about the silver bolt heads over the black non-skid or where the surface has been worn, but after the matte spray, they look terrific. Similarly, one of my favorite things about the Revell kit is the cockpit... I took a lot of extra time with a toothpick trying to get all the gauges into their recesses on the IP. I came close! Will add some Airscale and Barracuda cockpit stencils to the IP (and the cockpit) to augment the already good details from the Revell kit. I did cut the selector switch decal into three pieces as the center 'switch' is too fat for the decal to settle down on. I SHOULD have just cut off the selector switch and used an Eduard PE piece. But this still looks pretty good. My first experience with CMK products is this resin seat. I bought both options, with and without seatbelts. For Desert Rat I opted for the seatbelts. The detail is really tremendous and extremely easy to paint. Base is Vallejo gloss white primer, then a spray of MRP Interior Green, specifically blotchy. The seat pad is Vallejo Model Air Hemp, followed with a wash of Vallejo Model Air Dark Brown, RLM61 - both brush painted. The RLM 61 was thinned 3 drops paint to 2 drops thinner. Seat belts are Model Master Acryl Tan, with seatbelt hardware brush painted using Vallejo Metal Color Dull Aluminum. After that had set, I used a damp paper towel, slightly dipped into the RLM61 to dab onto the seat for a bit of texture. Really hard to see here. Still need to add a bit more detail to the seatbelts. Its a start! Chris

With the 109 on the home straight i spied the 262 from 2019 sitting on the shelf. Quick email to the guys and transferred over to the GB. Gives me the motivation to get it finished! had some fun getting the covers to fit. Lots of messing around and trimming etc. Ordered some pe rudder pedals, extra instrument panel and resin control stick for back seat area. Have a nice selection of images of this plane in various states of decay/scrap/souvenirs so need to decide what level to work to. May well make a little dio.

Inspired by Thunnus amazing 109G-6/AS build earlier this year I've taken a deep breath and started my first advanced conversion build. First cuts and all fits spot on. Reaver prop to go with the conversion = perfect match! Added the Aries radio set for the open hatch at the rear. Designed for the Hasegawa kit it fitted without issue. Cut out the hatch and replaced with the pe. Thinned the inside Aries pit next and a drop in fit. Like Thunnus removed the front bottom pour for the wing strut. Larger oil cooler from Barracuda tested, no problems! Quick dry fit of everything I'd done today. Aaron

Hi, everyone. Here's my latest project. After slogging through a couple long complex builds, I wanted to do something quick, fun, and easy. So, I grabbed the Revell of German FW-190F-8 kit off the shelf and this is what came out. I'm making no pretenses whatsoever to be perfectly historically accurate, but the general idea is to convey a forgotten and abandoned FW-190 that was stuffed under some low trees and covered with tarps for camouflage from roving allied fighter bombers. I found the "Yellow K" paint scheme referenced in a 1/48 Eduard kit and decided to do up some masks on my Silhouette cutter to match. Pretty much everything else is straight out of the box. The kit itself is really nice, especially for the cost. It went from "in the box" to "mostly built" in about 7 hours. That includes painting, decaling, and weathering the cockpit. The cowling was the only finicky part, but a lot of tape and liquid superglue had it coming out pretty nicely. The exhaust stacks where they meet with the cylinder heads were short-shot in one area, but since I was going with a closed cowling, it wasn't a big deal. It would've been a deal breaker on a cowl-open build though. Paints were MRP and weathering was done with oils, Mig washes, and pigments. The trees are twisted wire covered with plaster and woodland scenics foliage. Tarp is tissue paper laid down with white glue and water, then painted in situ. Ground work is still a skill I'm working to improve, but I'm reasonably happy with how everything turned out. On to the pics. Hope you enjoy. If you've made it this far, you may have noticed that I forgot to put on the lenses for the wingtip and rudder lights. My bad. I've since fixed that, but I *really* didn't want to drag the photography set out again just to take updated pics. :p

Hi everyone, a small budget sheet for the 1/32 Revell Fw 190 A-8/R2 as I had some space left on another decal sheet I needed to fill. Enjoy. Should be available by end of September

Hi all I am new to this Forum and I hope you don't mind e posting this , but I have a model I have just finished last week. I have been building the model initially for a group build but in true form I did not finish in time !!! I have enjoyed the kit very much and was provided much encouragement, support and references by Max known on here as @mozart, so I would like to say a big thank you Max, your help and support was very much appreciated. The kit is the Revell venerable Matchbox Tiggie and I picked it up second hand for just a fiver at my then local model shop Hythe, Kent Models, in those days I only lived 100 yds away from the shop so I was always in there and the owner got to know my interests and would set kits aside for me, what a great shop it was and I still miss going in there. I have made a few modifications to the kit such as new compasses and mounts, front seat, some controls, new windscreens, fuel **** and mechanism, rudder controls, aileron control cables etc, new access doors, corrected vertical tail position and anti spin strakes, oh and a new fuel gauge. The engine also received some attention as did the cowling panel that is open. Rigging is Invisible thread with Bobs Buckles Eyelets and tubes, not prototypical I know but I am very happy with it. The model is brush painted using Humbrol enamels and the decals are from the Kit Anyway enough of the chat her are some photos, I hope you like. Fuel gauge Thank you for looking in, I hope you enjoyed, apologies for the phot quality but my camera has broken and I am using my soon to be replaced phone. I am just finishing a much modified 48th scale Seahawk and then will be moving back onto a very heavily modified Hobbyboss Spitfire Mk Vb and waiting patiently in the wings is a Revell 32nd scale Hunter that I am building into a GA.11 and a 24th Scale Airfix Sea Harrier FRS. All the best Chris

I have the Revell Bf 109G-10 Erla in 1/32 that I am getting ready to start. I got some extra stuff with it as a package deal which includes the A.M.U.R. Reaver Bf 109G-10 Erla Correction Set. My question is this: Did all G-10 Erlas have the bulged profile that the correction set portrays? Or, just certain ones? The correction set looks to be a really nice bit of kit, but I am not sure I want to tackle something that complex just yet. I have seen this set installed and it looks great, but then I also see quite a few of the Revell kits built as is without the correction and not much is said about it.

Hi all, I took my sweet time, but finally finished another build. This time the Revell Me262B-1 nightfighter. I wanted to do another wheels up build. Luckily I had some pilots from my ZM He219 lying around waiting to get in the air. So I did a pretty quick build of the cockpit because not much will be seen with the pilots in them and the canopy closed. All in all it was a pretty tight fit. The rest of the build is pretty straightforward although I had some trouble closing up the gundeck. There are some pretty large gaps and steps to be filled and sanded. The same with engine covers. Just another example where the kit is designed to be build with panels open instead of closed. Anyway with that all sorted I had to make a choice for the color scheme. I really liked the one of Red 8, so went with that one. I found an excellent thread from Mark aka 'Madmax' here on LSP: Link. He did some research on this particular ac which helped me a lot. So all in all I'm pleased with the result. It's not my best build (had some trouble with the canopy as is evident in the pictures), but it looks pretty cool in my opinion. I've left off the external fuel tanks, because I don't like how they disrupt the lines of the aircraft. My guess is that the pilot dropped them before getting in action. Or call it artistic freedom. Products used: - Revell Me262B-1 - AIMS decal 32D007 - Master model FuG 218 antenna - Mr. Paint - Pilots - Zoukei Mura He219 - model stand of unknown brand

Hi all! One reason why my Corsair build has slowed down is that I have taken part in a Facebook group build. The subject is the world famous F-4 Phantom II. For my build I decided to use Revell's 1/32 F-4F kit to depict a worn out Greek F-4E SRA with I will also be using the following aftermarket detail sets: Legend's resin F-4E cockpit Real Model's resin slatted stabilizers GT Resin's exhausts DEF Model's resin wheels and FOD covers Eduard's placards Airscale's dataplates and instruments

I've been working on this on and off for the last few months and have finished it off this week. I've used the classic Revell 1/48th B-17F kit and coupled it with Koster's vacformed beautiful early Fortress conversion set. This comprises a new rear fuselage with the distinctive 'shark fin', a new early nose and cockpit transparency as well as other various vacformed clear parts, along with some additional air intakes for the early oil cooler set up - all in all a very comprehensive conversion set. You have to undertake other mods to the Revell kit such as shortening the nose (the later Forts had a longer nose due to the heavier rear fuselage needing to be rebalanced), add additional seats to the flightdeck as well as reshaping the later paddle-bladed props to the earlier 'needle' type. The cowl flaps have to go too, as these weren't introduced until the D-model. They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here's a good summary of the work carried out: DSC_0063 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I started with the Revell F-model kit rather than the Monogram G-model as the nose is far easier to modify - I just needed to blend in the larger cheek windows and then open them up in the shape of the smaller windows seen on the earlier models. Here you can see I have removed the necessary section to shorten the nose, as well as removing the rear fuselage and the Koster rear part is being offered up for size: IMG_E1388 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I decided to do a later scheme used by the RAF on their Fortress Is which was slate / extra dark sea grey uppers with PRU blue undersides. I used my favourite Xtracolor enamels with generic Xtradecal codes and insignia to cobble together a 90 Squadron machine which was operated out of Polebrook in the Autumn of 1941. DSC_0091 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0058 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0064 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0066 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0068 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0070 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0073 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0081 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0082 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0088 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The fit of the Koster parts was exceptional - once they were removed from the backing sheet and sanded correctly it was like working with an injection-molded kit. In fact, the Koster parts fitted better than the Revell kit! The only tricky area was the nose transparency - this was a little too large to fit the Revell nose, but some careful trimming and careful blending with Milliput solved the problem. I'm now trying to get hold of the 1/48th Privateer conversion, but now Koster kits are OOP I'll have my work cut out - and they're currently going for silly prices on eBay! Regards to all, Tom