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Found 78 results

  1. spyrosjzmichos

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair Birdcage

    Hello guys! Having finished the F-104 I've now moved on to Tamiya's 1/32 kit of the F4U-1 Corsair Birdcage. This is my first WW2 bird after a veeeery long time. The kit is also very special for me as it is my fiancee's first ever model kit present to me (more came later)! I'll be building it almost straight out of the box with just the addition of Eduard's fabric seatbelts, Barracuda's resin wheels and Eagle Cal decals. I started with the cockpit and was impressed at the number of subassemblies that were required to complete it and how everything went together perfectly! The fabric seatbelts were a pain to put together but I'm pleased with the end result and may use again in future builds! The cockpit was airbrushed with interior green and all raised details were highlighted with the same colour lightened with white. Smaller details were brushpainted their own specific colours. For the tail wheel area I made my own mixture from brown, red, white and yellow. Chipping was done with a small piece of sponge dipped in aluminium. The green I used may be a bit controversial although I've seen examples of built models and all had the same colour. Anyway, I'm content with this one! More to come later!
  2. Ilya

    Tamiya A6M2 Zero

    Hi All! This is my Tamiya A6M2b Zero. The kit is wonderful! I enjoyed buildig alot. I used some aftermarket: Eduard BIG ED Master barrels HGW Wet transfers (stencils) HGW belts Montex Masks Prototype is Perl-Harbor SORYU Fighter Group BI-151.
  3. Hello the next kit i will start the mosquito Yes another one im still working on the corsair but im at the point for decals so everything is slowing down and i whant to build So this wil be a slow build and try to do better than my corsair After looking at all the mosquito builds over here i hope i can meet the finnish standard For the markings i have no idee at the moment So the kit. the aftermarket for this one i hope i can make a small start this weekend Mark
  4. Greetings fellow plastic lovers! I haven't posted anything in quite some time and I thought that posting my progress on this project will not only keep me involved in the forum but also give me a little drive to steadily make progress on this build. I am a notoriously slow builder and during the summer months it's even slower so please be patient if I take a while between posts. With that said, the F4U Corsair has always been my favorite aircraft and I've had this kit since it was released. I've slowly been acquiring some aftermarket goodies to include on this build and I hope to really push my skills to the limit and hopefully learn a few new things. For this build I will be using main decals and cockpit decals from Barracuda, seatbelts from HGW, cowl flap set from Vector, mask from Montex and finally wheels from Barracuda. Thanks for looking!
  5. ok, its time!!! This is part of a project i had to build a few Mustangs of the same unit, the unit i choose was RAF East Wrentham, as some of you may remember i built 'stinky' a few months ago. Now while researching the subject and asking on several forums about 1/32 Mustangs i was gifted this 1/32 Tamiya Mustang!!! (thanks to the gifter you know who you are) anyway this is probably the most expensive kit ive built, and i really want to do it justice so dont expect lots of updates, i know many of you have built this kit, so ill no doubt be asking for help as i go along, i just hope my skill level is enough for this kit wish me luck
  6. I’ve always loved the looks of the F-16, even more so when it wears Israel’s colors and markings. When the opportunity arose to trade for a 1/32 Tamiya F-16CJ with Isradecals, additional resin, and Isracast conversion parts, I took it (A big THANK YOU to Petrov27 here on LSP). When the very large box arrived last week, I began to explore my options. (That's actually his picture) My first inclination was to build it as a Barak (Hebrew for Lightning) of 101 Squadron (First Fighter Squadron) with its distinctive large winged skull emblem. But after looking over the decals and my book on the Barak, the tail art of 117 Squadron, The First Jet Squadron, really took my fancy. But the problem was 117 Squadron flew block 30 F-16’s, and they were small mouth (NSI intake) block 30’s. To build this I’d have to cross pollenate the intake from a 1/32 Tamiya F-16 Thunderbirds kit to build a plane from this squadron. Then I exchanged emails with Ra’anan Weiss of Isradecals. He said plane 360, is one of the few IAF block 30 F-16’s with the large mouth, or MCID, intake. Problem solved. He’s even sending me one of the squadron’s 60th anniversary decals for the tail base. The first thing I’ve done, is problem solve how to fit some of the aftermarket bits for this plane. The Aires exhaust pipe fits spot on. And the detail is awesome. I must be careful aligning the inner and outer parts. They’re slightly off in that picture, but they will look killer painted. Speaking of paints, I picked these up to lend a hand with the camouflage on this bird: I’ll have some pictures of work being done soon. The first thing I’m going to tackle is the Aires gear bays. They fit well enough, but it’s going to take a little work to make it just right.
  7. BloorwestSiR

    Tamiya F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    So, while I've been recently working on the WNW Snipe, and the Tamiya Mossie, this has also had a bit of space on my workbench. This was the kit that I did the original in box sprue said of when it first came out. I finally got around to starting on it after following Harv's night fighter WIP. I don't have a full run of photos but here's what I have. I started with the cockpit and mostly it's all OOB. Here's the seat with a bunch of scratches added to it using a Prismacolor pencil. This will probably end up being the most weathered build I've ever done (besides the Millennium Falcon). Here's the cockpit sidewalls. I used mid bronze green for the colour.
  8. Hello everyone, I'm starting a new build and I'm wanting to do the captured paint scheme of Koga's Zero. I'm already messing up though I do think. I've tried two approaches to doing the Aotake blue-green and I don't think either looks good. The lighter one is by Model Master and is Japanese interior Blue. The other one I tried mixing the suggested colors Tamiya has in the manual and to me it looks too Blue in color. I know this subject has been beat to death on colors, but I'm not doing so hot here and remembering why I always stayed away from Japanese subjects. Here is what it looks like so far: Thanks, Brady
  9. BloorwestSiR

    Tamiya Spitfire XVI- TD248

    Here's my entry in the GB. It's the Tamiya low back XVI kit. I'll be using Life Like decals to do TD248. I have a bit of AM to add to the build but it'll be mostly OOB. This means I'll have two different Spitfires on separate group builds at the same time. Carl
  10. With a pair of Spitfires for the Jurassic Plastic and Keep it Civil group builds on the bench, I got carried away and started working on another pair that I've wanted to do for some time. The unique looks of the the HF VII with its extended wingtips and Ocean Grey/PRU Blue paint scheme has had a big appeal to me. Likewise, the VIII with the iconic Grey Nurse shark mouth is hard to resist. The biggest challenge for building a VII was the deeper rear canopy section and the rear pressure bulkhead. Roy Sutherland's build of the VII in the "How to Build Tamiya's Spitfire" book was a great source of inspiration. Unfortunately it didn't cover how to make the rear canopy. I cut and spliced two canopies together to get the correct depth, hoping to use it as a master for a smash moulded replacement. Unfortunately it didn't work out with the sheet plastic melting and deforming my master. Guess I should have expected that but that was my first try at this sort of thing. My second try, I simply bent the plastic sheet to the right shape. This seemed to work out much better. With that out of the way, I turned my attention to the fuselage modifications. I started by cutting away the rear section to match the new canopy. Here is the modified one in front of the VIII fuselage.
  11. mark31

    F4U-1 Roayl Navy

    finaly after years i have finnishd a model The tamiya birdcage what i have used the two sets from brassin seatbelts from HGW decals for the pit from barracuda it whas a great build and whas going fast only two months for this on enjoy the pics Thanks to you all how folowd the build and gave me advice Mark
  12. Ilya

    Tamiya A6M2b engine

    Hi all! I just started building a Tamiya kit A6M2b. Started from engine. And now I have a lot of questions. I can not find no good photo or scheme of Nakajima NK1C Sakae 12 engine. Especially the rear side. Maybe someone have seen something about this? Best regards, Ilya
  13. Rick K

    Tamiya A6M2b

    The second kit of my summer '16 start with hopes to finish by 7 Dec for 75 anniversary. Pearl Harbor P36, P40B, A6M2b. Life hit the fan and bench time kept to minimum. My wrecked knee kept me from working at bench as it's 36" (91cm) high and I stand to do my work. Tamiya's very nice A6M2b will be base kit for my Pearl Harbor subject. IJNAF pilot Shigenori Nishikaichi's A6M2b "B11-120" will be the subject. I've always been fascinated about the story of the "Niihau Incident". Nishikaichi crash landed his aircraft after receiving damage during the second wave attack at Pearl Harbor. The events that followed for the next 6 days is nothing short of epic. Moral of the story, "Don't mess with the Big Kahuna". Nishikaichi was based on the carrier Hiryu. After crash landing on the island of Niihau Nishikaichi set his aircraft afire. This photo was taken 17 December, 1941. Fire damage is visible and well as some parts already scavenged. This aircraft is now on display at The Pacific Aviation Museum at Ford Island, Pearl Harbor. Ejector sink marks removed with putty and sanding pen. Following primer of Gunze 1500 Black I applied Gunze 127 Interior for cockpit area and tub assembly. Moving forward to detail paint and Aotake finish applied with mix of Tamiya clears (11 parts X19 Smoke, 10 parts X23 Blue, 1 part X25 Green). Heavily thinned then a few passes on a silver base of Alclad Aluminum. IP complete using kit decals and clear lenses.
  14. Ok, I am a strong proponent of this GB, and feel my fellow modellers should sometimes be ready to move out of their comfort range of guns-and-bombs-bristling-camoed-WWII-fighters ! I therefore hope this thread will be an encouragement for them to try something different, just as I am doing here. If you know me, or have read some of my posts, you will know that I have always professed NEVER to build a Spitstang or Messerwulf, and that my stash has more resin and esoteric injected plastic than most would consider lawful But only fools never change their mind, so here is (another) entry from me in this GB, AND my first Tamiya kit ever , AND my first Spifire ever! Now if this is not a proof of the bad influence of LSP on my firmly-set beliefs, what will be ? So here is my entry, with the compulsory "starting shots" and comments, more to take a date, as I have another one to complete in the "Jurassic Plastic" GB first, but I am now commited : Tamiya's (gorgeous, I reckon, from fondling the sprues) Spitfire Mk IXc It will be built as the famous MH434, in its G-ASJV silver, white and blue livery. No guns, not a hint a Dark Green or Ocean Grey or Medium Sea Grey ! ( I am willing to "compromise" my standards, but not to that point, guys, besides the explicit GB rules ! ) And even though it can be built OOB from all the threads I have read here, i have added a few AM, that I hope will improve on the fantastic kit base: RAM decals RAM32-002 "G-ASJV" decals sheet - that was the minimum for the entry anyway Yahu Models YMA3220 Spitfire Mk IX early instrument panel, which is the absolute bees knees when it comes to finesse of details some BarracudaCast replacements : the rock covers with the Rolls_royce logos, the 4-slot maninwheels, the door with the separate crowbar (which was possibly red in G-ASJV livery times ), the seat with leather backpad, the starboard cokpit sidewall, and finally the cockpit upgrade set with finer-than-the-kit details such as the control stick or throttle quadrant and finally, a RB Productions Sutton QS QL QP, which I conjectured would have been fitted on G-ASJV when she was sporting her blue/white/silver livery. And finally, if you ask about my "Spirit of Africa" build thread here as well, it is not forgotten, and will be continued. I felt however that interjecting an "easier" kit could be a good boost to my modelling time and possibly to the interest of this GB for my fellow LSPers. (As as side comment, I just hope that life will be more gentle for my modelling than the last week (although it looks pretty grim right now) and will spare me some bench-time in the near future. and btw, my Gee Bees build on the "Jurassic Plastic" GB has progressed, but I need to oragnise and write-up the description of this update, and that will not be before another 10 days I suspect) Thanks for enduring my ramblings ! Hubert
  15. Hello one and all, If I may, I'd like to share a little progress on my current project. I recognise a number of names from other forums so to you guys, apologies for posting this stuff since I guess you've seen it before. For those members who like to stay within the comfortable walls of LSP, I hope there are one or two things that you might find interesting along the way. Typically, my builds are long drawn out affairs so I hope you have some stamina and a fair amount of patience. I like to try to squeeze every last ounce of value out of these big kits so I often spend some time tweeking bits here and there. I would describe myself as more of an enthusiast rather than an expert so if you have anything to share please feel free to add any and all comments or techniques. I'd rather someone point issues out or offer alternative ways of doing something than let me go off in the wrong direction blissfully unaware of easier/better ways of doing stuff. I'm a little way into the build already so these early posts will come thick and fast. Once we've caught up to date, expect things to slow to a more glacial pace. INDEX p1. Jet exhausts. Beaver tail mods. TCS. Forward fuselage mods. Ventral fins. Fuselage underside and Sparrow missile troughs. Scratch built air con vents. Intake trunking. Vertical tails. Scratch built upper fuselage vents. p2. Wing joint mods. Wing leading edge mod. Engine fairing tweeks. Main wheel bay alterations. Windscreen, IP and (Aires) cockpit. Seats (start) p3. Seats (finished) Canopy. Missile rail. LANTIRN pod and pylon. Fuel tanks. Boarding ladder recess. Canopy locking hooks. Nose wheel bay. (start) Front gear leg. Tail hook. p4. Wheeliant wheels main wheels. Nose wheel bay (finished) p5. Nose section paint, sunglasses and decals. p7. Auxilliary bypass vents (start) p8. Aux bypass vents (cont). Quickboost resin intake plugs. Horizontal tails. p9. Main wings. On to the build then and like many modellers, I'll deviate from the instructions when it suits me. Whereas Tamiya suggest the builder start with the cockpit and front wheel bay area (more of that at a later date), I turned my attention to the blunt end first. For me, there are three main areas of interest on a modern jet fighter. These are, in no particular order, the cockpit, the landing gear and the jet pipes/nozzles. Each of these three areas are prominent and eye-catching for different reasons. So, I started dabbling with the jet pipes to begin the build. *NB* A company called PitzModels is developing an etched metal exhaust nozzle which is likely to render the folowing redundant The Black Knights boxing of the Tamiya kit offers better shaped exhaust petals than original releases. Much better than before, that does n't mean we can't tweek them a little to try to get the best from them. I scored some elongated dimples at the tip of each petal and added several rows of rivets. I then thinned the petals and cut them apart after I'd hollowed out the rear of the slot that runs down the centre of each petal. I filled the void with inner petals shaped out of metal foil and then painted the finished assembly with MetalColor from GS
  16. Here's my final build of the year. I finished it with just under 6 hours left in the year. This was the first plane I've done with any significant weathering so that was some skill building for me. Sorry if the photos aren't that great but they were the best I could do.
  17. Hello all, Thought I'd kick the year off be posting a couple of images of this tribute to Edgar Brooks. I began this build during the GB but stalled when I got distracted. During the holidays I have been able to re-visit it and finally finish my tribute to Edgar. Better late than never. Hope you enjoy the end result. I had hoped to be able to display the model all buttoned up but the intake under the nose does n't want to come off anymore. I managed to batter the kit stencils into submission but chickened out with the larger markings which were masked and painted. sluggo kindly provided the masks which worked beautifully, thanks Randy. The cannon are metal items and fitted perfectly. Really a top notch product. Also, the wheels are resin items from Barracuda studios. Excellent product and heartily recommended. The finish is Tamiya AS whizz can with a coat of clear gloss lacquer over it from Montana Gold spray cans. I then toned that down in places with Valejo satin varnish before weathering with various mediums from Games Workshop inks through water colour pencils to pastel chalks. I finally gave up trying to use Photobucket and reverted to Joomeo but it's a while since I use that site so hope the images show up for everyone. Any comments, good or bad, are most welcome. Cheers.
  18. Hello all, It’s been a while since I have posted; in fact, it’s been a while since I’ve been building. But with encouragement from Peter, I decided to post the rest of this build. I’m sure that almost everyone has read all of the glowing reports about this Tamiya kit. I won’t add much to what we already know except to say that my experience has been the same. Everything really does fit amazingly well. It fits so well that in the couple of cases where it didn’t, I ultimately found out that it was my fault. So be warned when you build this kit. Dry fit everything and if you find a problem, back step until you find where you went wrong. My only complaint is the it’s a vastly over-engineered kit. I think we are all used to building cockpits, for example, where we know that not everything, heck, maybe not hardly anything ends up being visible. But it’s still worth it because it’s fun. I exceeded my fun factor on this kit when it came to gluing together multiple parts to make the assemblies where the flaps fit into the trailing edge. But, that’s just me and I’ll get off my soapbox now. In spite of the kit having a beautiful (stunning) engine, I decided to do the Eduard Brassin engine because the visible surface detailing is gorgeous. But, I’ve waiting till close to the end of the build to get cracking on it. The photo below shows the engine block and front housing as well as one of the cylinders. It’s painted gloss black as a prelude to using Alclad Aluminum on the cylinder fins. How, you may ask, am I going to mask each of the cylinders? Well, I got myself some Mr. Mask and some Mr. Mask Neo. The difference between them is ???, but I’m hoping that they will enable me to mask the cylinder heads in a reasonable period of time. The engine also has pushrods (scale) and even spark plugs. I’m going to have to do some careful drilling and fitting. Photo etch for the engine includes a couple of odds and ends and the wiring harness. I’m undecided at this point about using the PE wiring harness. I have some .015 solder which may be closer to a scale look, so I’m going to see what I think and then retreat to the PE, if necessary. There’s not a lot to say about the rest of the photos. At this point, the fuselage, center wing, outer wings, horizontal stab and elevators, vertical stab and rudder are all done except for final sanding, polishing, and rescribing. Although not pictured here, the landing gear is complete as well. Remaining to be done are some final sanding and finishing, primer, paint, decals, and final assembly. And, oh yes, the engine and cowl assembly. It’s been a lot of fun so far, and I’m hoping you will enjoy the rest of the build with me. John
  19. Hi Judy: Last we talked you confirmed that your 1/32 Big Beautiful Doll decals were scaled up from your 1/48 scale decals and we discovered they don't fit the nose of the Tamiya 1/32 model without extensive modifications. Have you made changes to that set yet or are you going to? Looking forward to using one of your Mosquito sets on an upcoming build! Thanks, Chris
  20. Having just completed my What If? Mustang GB, I was planning on getting back to my CT-133 build but this kit just kept staring at me since I picked it up last week. So onto the new cleared bench it went. Most of the bags are open from having posted pics of the sprues in another thread. AM will consist of new seat belts and decals once they come out. Carl
  21. IJ001

    'Mrs. Bonnie' P-51K

    Hello folks Been a long time since I asked for folks ideas here, but because I’m planning-on building the Tamiya 1:32 Mustang (and the implied ‘cost’ of this kit), I thought it may be a good idea to get some thoughts before I start hacking away at it. I’m going to build Bill Dunhams’ ‘Mrs. Bonnie’ as it was right at the end of the war in summer 1945. The aircraft is a P-51K-10 it's quite well known as it was featured in some publicity photos in August or September. As you can see, despite it being a Dallas-built ‘K’ it has the cuffed Hamilton props and spinner – the blade profile and decals give-it-away – also the whole of the spinner is painted red/yellow/blue & black (front to rear). This is fine as the kit I’m using is the initial Tamiya release, 60322 (which also has the ‘Dallas’ canopy in the box too). Now here’s the part where I need your insight & thoughts – Tamiya in their paint & decal instructions show ‘Mrs Bonnie’ with the ‘correct’ Aeroproducts spinner & blades but also would have you paint the spinner back-plate NMF, the colours being the same but compressed. Has anyone got a photo that confirms the Tamiya instructions – just being curious, I’m one of those folks who likes to have as much info as possible… Thanks in advance folks, over to you. Ian. ps Special thanks to Ben (PCBEN80) for supplying the decals all the way from the USA to 'Middle Earth', really appreciate it, matey !!
  22. Hi, I'm building Tamiya's classic in Pacific outfit. I've added polish Yahu instrument panel, HGW seatbelts, some Eduard Photoetch, my own wires and i will use Kagero decals.
  23. BloorwestSiR

    Tamiya F-4D Phantom II- Finished!

    Well, since it looks like I'll be able to finish the UH-1 in time, I've decided to start a kit that at least I have some familiarity with how it goes together. This will be my third Tamiya Phantom and my first D model. I plan to work on it during the down time while the UH-1 is drying or when I want something a little more painless. I will be building it as the London Int'l Airshow version as I was fortunate enough to see the plane in person. In addition to the Speedhunter decal sheet, I have Rhino intakes, GT Resin exhaust cans, Eduard bang seats and cockpit PE, and AMS splitter ramps and chin pod. Carl
  24. First, I would like to say that Large Scale Planes has some of the nicest, most helpful people in the forum world and I am not just referring to just the modeling realm. Compared to some of the other modeling forums and even other hobbies I partake in, this forum has great user feedback with little of what I like to call JTP’s or, Joe the Pro’s. With that said, this will be my first topic started on any model forum so be easy on me! I haven’t modeled since I was a young kid putting together Revell kits with Testors cement and finishing them in a couple hours. Even though I haven’t touched a kit since middle school, I have continued to follow model forums and build sites. Now, at the age of 33 and with the recent purchase of a house, I have the room to get back into it and try out all of the methods I have learned from forums like this. I decided to dive back in with one of the great 1/32 kits from Tamiya, their P-51D. I have also added some aftermarket kits, I am sure I will add more down the road but this is what I have so far…. Web Garden Seatbelts - #132071 BarracudaCast Cockpit Sidewalls - BR32012 BarracudaCast Instrument Panel - BR32013 BarracudaCast Cockpit Upgrade - BR32014 BarracudaCast Diamond Tread Tires - BR32029 Eduard Exterior - #32302 Eduard Engine - #32307 Eduard Interior- Early - #32712 I also plan on getting the “Mustang Cockpit Stencils and Placards†from Barracuda but they haven’t been in stock for months. Roy Sutherland, if you are out there, any chance these will be available soon? I haven’t made a 100% commitment to the final paint scheme I want to depict but I am leaning towards Fundekals and their “Daddy’s Girlâ€. A lot of my methods and references will come from Chuck Sawyer’s (chuck540z3) P-51 “Thunder Bird†featured on the January 2014 cover of “Fine Scale Modelersâ€. This man can do some work! He also is very descriptive in his techniques which have been very helpful, he always responds in detail. Also, even though I could never come close to touching the skill of dodgem37, I really love what he is doing in his “Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956†build and will use that as a valuable reference. First off is the Merlin, after removing some seam lines and filling some gaps the engine went together beautifully. I plan to add a lot of extra plumbing all over the engine compartment and I started with some oil lines made out of copper wire that come out of the oil relief valve. I added a wire holder out of aluminum off a soda can. After finishing the plumbing that wouldn’t get in the way of paint I sprayed the entire engine with decanted Tamiya TS14 black. For the magneto’s, starter, and the coolant rails I painted them Alclad Aluminum. I painted every bolt and nut with Floquil Old Silver with the tip of a #11 X-acto blade. The ignition rails are made out of .030" styrene rod with copper wires as the ignition wires. It was my first time bending a styrene rod and after many failed attempts using such methods as warm water, the stove, and a hair dryer I tried my wife’s clothes steamer with beautiful results. That’s all for now. It is slow going since I am learning all these methods for the first time but I am having a lot fun with it so far! I look forward to everyone’s feedback. -Eric
  25. Takka!Takka! Takka! Takka! After finishing my FR IX, I guess I couldn't stay away. So here's my next Spitfire build. As most have probably guessed, this will be MH434 from the film Battle of Britain. I'll be using the fundekäls sheet for the markings. The biggest hurdle I had was that I had previously assembled most of the wing. In doing so, I used the wrong cannon fairing bulges. To replicate the look of the .303 armed MK II Spitfire, the cannon barrels and their fairings were removed. This meant I had to remove them from my wing. I decided to try and cut them off with a small razor saw. This worked out better than I thought and I managed to get both fairings removed without damaging any of the detail on the surrounding panels. Next were the leading edge inserts. I used sprue from the kit to plug the openings. Then I sanded them to their approximate shape. The inserts were then attached to the wings and the final shaping will be done once they're dry. I also filled in the holes in the wing panels with sheet styrene. Carl
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