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Found 82 results

  1. Ok, so I just finished my entry in the last GB and I'm back with this build. The first thing to do was to tidy up the workbench. Shaka, if you're reading this avert your eyes! Yup, a clean bench. So much space to clutter up, er, work in. Now onto my starting point: I'll be using the Montex masks for the larger markings and the Xtradecals for the smaller ones. I'm planning to build 307 in the 3 tone front, GSB rear combo. Carl
  2. Aside from all of the prep work I've been doing, the following has taken a long time to evolve to get to this stage. Hopefully future efforts will move along more quickly. Otherwise I may miss the deadline. I reworked the right and left edges. The rod goes into the edgework of the instrument panel. I needed to trim away the sidewall structure under the rod so the rod would set properly when the sidewall was dryfitted to the floor/i.p. assembly. The insulation is from a solid core wire. I threaded .5mm wide insulation onto stripped wire taken from a hard drive parallel data cable. .010 or .015 solder wire. I needed to replace the outermost terminal with rod. I replaced the canopy retraction handle to complement the throttle handle. The throttle handle is a kit part and really stood out, detail wise. The canopy handle was molded into the sidewall. It looked flat compared to the throttle so I chiseled it off and made a new handle. I domed the end of a piece of rod to make the base, flattened the end of a rod with a plier and sanded the result round to get the handle base, and cut some rod for the handle. Wiring configuration is made up, although the rod that runs the length approximates the real deal. I needed to remove some of the bottom of the first and second structure. Home made springs and mounts. Springs aren't glued in place. This spring is a little short, oh well. I'll just glue it against the high tab. The spring is compressed. Here you can almost see how the rods would go thru the side openings I made in the panel. Without removing some sidewall structure the rod configuration wouldn't work. I had to weigh one effect against the other. More work, but I chose this effect. Rudder pedal linkage is good, with the spring and everything, but the wire connection isn't accurate. This was an easier connection to make. It is pinned with .010 rod so it moves around. Same thing here concerning removal of the first two structure bottoms. I wanted to see if the rudder pedal junk would look effective. Not such a hot shot. I don't know what those two rods are on the left, but they are in every photo I have of that area. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  3. themongoose

    F-16 Thunderbird #1

    The saga continues this Christmas as we head into 2018 with my 3rd rendition of the USAF demonstration team. I decided on the F-16 because I bought too much paint for the F-35A so this one allows me to use the most of that up. This time I’m doing the Team Leader, Mike Chandler’s plane from the 2003-2004 season. I found a full walk around of his plane which will definitely help with details. My plan is to do this OOB except for a few scratch details...originally it was 100% oob but once i saw the flag and stop watch in the cockpit weren’t there that thought went by the wayside. I got the Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modeling series by Ammo Mig Jimenez for my birthday. I’ve moved on to the advanced cockpit section here so let me know how you think it’s going - all comments are appreciated. Here’s a few teaser picks of what I have done after 2 days of holiday 👨ðŸ¼â€ðŸŽ¨ I think I have to redo the attempt at lettering on the oxy bottle? Looks more like 💠lol I don’t have a big enough stash of old decals so I’m trying to make it look oike lettering from a distance.
  4. So I'm planning to add some emphasis to the panel lines on this build rather than leaving everything stark white. There are some shadows at the panel lines on the real thing but I don't think they are as bold as when a full preshading is done and I think black basing would be way too heavy; just my opinion and I'm not experienced with doing this so I'd like to get yours I used Tamiya's panle line accents to do this - dark grey and black. Take a peak and if you wouldn't mind submit an answer to the poll (hopefully this works as it's also my 1st poll). Accented parts 1st Coat of Insignia White 2nd Coat of Insignia White
  5. Well, after seven months of work, Tamy's 32nd scale Birdcage Corsair is finally done! There's been a lot of praise over this kit and I can only echo everyone's words! What a lovely kit overall! For the general painting, I used a mix of acrylic colours from Mig Ammo, AK Interactive, Vallejo and Hataka as well as Aclad for the engine. The camo was done with colours from Hataka's Late US Navy paint set and weathering was achieved with oils from the Mig Ammo oilbrusher set and pigments. The model will be placed in a small vignette but that will be done a bit later in the future! Again, I thoroughly enjoyed this model from start to finish not just because of it's excellent engineering but also because it was a project I feel tested and pushed my skills to a higher level! A big thank you to all of you for your continuous encouragement but most important for sharing your feedback and suggestions with me at every stage of the build! I dedicate this model to my lovely fiancee who bought this kit for me as a birthday present and who has been so supportive of my hobby!
  6. spyrosjzmichos

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair Birdcage

    Hello guys! Having finished the F-104 I've now moved on to Tamiya's 1/32 kit of the F4U-1 Corsair Birdcage. This is my first WW2 bird after a veeeery long time. The kit is also very special for me as it is my fiancee's first ever model kit present to me (more came later)! I'll be building it almost straight out of the box with just the addition of Eduard's fabric seatbelts, Barracuda's resin wheels and Eagle Cal decals. I started with the cockpit and was impressed at the number of subassemblies that were required to complete it and how everything went together perfectly! The fabric seatbelts were a pain to put together but I'm pleased with the end result and may use again in future builds! The cockpit was airbrushed with interior green and all raised details were highlighted with the same colour lightened with white. Smaller details were brushpainted their own specific colours. For the tail wheel area I made my own mixture from brown, red, white and yellow. Chipping was done with a small piece of sponge dipped in aluminium. The green I used may be a bit controversial although I've seen examples of built models and all had the same colour. Anyway, I'm content with this one! More to come later!
  7. Ilya

    Tamiya A6M2 Zero

    Hi All! This is my Tamiya A6M2b Zero. The kit is wonderful! I enjoyed buildig alot. I used some aftermarket: Eduard BIG ED Master barrels HGW Wet transfers (stencils) HGW belts Montex Masks Prototype is Perl-Harbor SORYU Fighter Group BI-151.
  8. Hello the next kit i will start the mosquito Yes another one im still working on the corsair but im at the point for decals so everything is slowing down and i whant to build So this wil be a slow build and try to do better than my corsair After looking at all the mosquito builds over here i hope i can meet the finnish standard For the markings i have no idee at the moment So the kit. the aftermarket for this one i hope i can make a small start this weekend Mark
  9. Greetings fellow plastic lovers! I haven't posted anything in quite some time and I thought that posting my progress on this project will not only keep me involved in the forum but also give me a little drive to steadily make progress on this build. I am a notoriously slow builder and during the summer months it's even slower so please be patient if I take a while between posts. With that said, the F4U Corsair has always been my favorite aircraft and I've had this kit since it was released. I've slowly been acquiring some aftermarket goodies to include on this build and I hope to really push my skills to the limit and hopefully learn a few new things. For this build I will be using main decals and cockpit decals from Barracuda, seatbelts from HGW, cowl flap set from Vector, mask from Montex and finally wheels from Barracuda. Thanks for looking!
  10. ok, its time!!! This is part of a project i had to build a few Mustangs of the same unit, the unit i choose was RAF East Wrentham, as some of you may remember i built 'stinky' a few months ago. Now while researching the subject and asking on several forums about 1/32 Mustangs i was gifted this 1/32 Tamiya Mustang!!! (thanks to the gifter you know who you are) anyway this is probably the most expensive kit ive built, and i really want to do it justice so dont expect lots of updates, i know many of you have built this kit, so ill no doubt be asking for help as i go along, i just hope my skill level is enough for this kit wish me luck
  11. I’ve always loved the looks of the F-16, even more so when it wears Israel’s colors and markings. When the opportunity arose to trade for a 1/32 Tamiya F-16CJ with Isradecals, additional resin, and Isracast conversion parts, I took it (A big THANK YOU to Petrov27 here on LSP). When the very large box arrived last week, I began to explore my options. (That's actually his picture) My first inclination was to build it as a Barak (Hebrew for Lightning) of 101 Squadron (First Fighter Squadron) with its distinctive large winged skull emblem. But after looking over the decals and my book on the Barak, the tail art of 117 Squadron, The First Jet Squadron, really took my fancy. But the problem was 117 Squadron flew block 30 F-16’s, and they were small mouth (NSI intake) block 30’s. To build this I’d have to cross pollenate the intake from a 1/32 Tamiya F-16 Thunderbirds kit to build a plane from this squadron. Then I exchanged emails with Ra’anan Weiss of Isradecals. He said plane 360, is one of the few IAF block 30 F-16’s with the large mouth, or MCID, intake. Problem solved. He’s even sending me one of the squadron’s 60th anniversary decals for the tail base. The first thing I’ve done, is problem solve how to fit some of the aftermarket bits for this plane. The Aires exhaust pipe fits spot on. And the detail is awesome. I must be careful aligning the inner and outer parts. They’re slightly off in that picture, but they will look killer painted. Speaking of paints, I picked these up to lend a hand with the camouflage on this bird: I’ll have some pictures of work being done soon. The first thing I’m going to tackle is the Aires gear bays. They fit well enough, but it’s going to take a little work to make it just right.
  12. BloorwestSiR

    Tamiya F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    So, while I've been recently working on the WNW Snipe, and the Tamiya Mossie, this has also had a bit of space on my workbench. This was the kit that I did the original in box sprue said of when it first came out. I finally got around to starting on it after following Harv's night fighter WIP. I don't have a full run of photos but here's what I have. I started with the cockpit and mostly it's all OOB. Here's the seat with a bunch of scratches added to it using a Prismacolor pencil. This will probably end up being the most weathered build I've ever done (besides the Millennium Falcon). Here's the cockpit sidewalls. I used mid bronze green for the colour.
  13. Hello everyone, I'm starting a new build and I'm wanting to do the captured paint scheme of Koga's Zero. I'm already messing up though I do think. I've tried two approaches to doing the Aotake blue-green and I don't think either looks good. The lighter one is by Model Master and is Japanese interior Blue. The other one I tried mixing the suggested colors Tamiya has in the manual and to me it looks too Blue in color. I know this subject has been beat to death on colors, but I'm not doing so hot here and remembering why I always stayed away from Japanese subjects. Here is what it looks like so far: Thanks, Brady
  14. BloorwestSiR

    Tamiya Spitfire XVI- TD248

    Here's my entry in the GB. It's the Tamiya low back XVI kit. I'll be using Life Like decals to do TD248. I have a bit of AM to add to the build but it'll be mostly OOB. This means I'll have two different Spitfires on separate group builds at the same time. Carl
  15. mark31

    F4U-1 Roayl Navy

    finaly after years i have finnishd a model The tamiya birdcage what i have used the two sets from brassin seatbelts from HGW decals for the pit from barracuda it whas a great build and whas going fast only two months for this on enjoy the pics Thanks to you all how folowd the build and gave me advice Mark
  16. Ilya

    Tamiya A6M2b engine

    Hi all! I just started building a Tamiya kit A6M2b. Started from engine. And now I have a lot of questions. I can not find no good photo or scheme of Nakajima NK1C Sakae 12 engine. Especially the rear side. Maybe someone have seen something about this? Best regards, Ilya
  17. Rick K

    Tamiya A6M2b

    The second kit of my summer '16 start with hopes to finish by 7 Dec for 75 anniversary. Pearl Harbor P36, P40B, A6M2b. Life hit the fan and bench time kept to minimum. My wrecked knee kept me from working at bench as it's 36" (91cm) high and I stand to do my work. Tamiya's very nice A6M2b will be base kit for my Pearl Harbor subject. IJNAF pilot Shigenori Nishikaichi's A6M2b "B11-120" will be the subject. I've always been fascinated about the story of the "Niihau Incident". Nishikaichi crash landed his aircraft after receiving damage during the second wave attack at Pearl Harbor. The events that followed for the next 6 days is nothing short of epic. Moral of the story, "Don't mess with the Big Kahuna". Nishikaichi was based on the carrier Hiryu. After crash landing on the island of Niihau Nishikaichi set his aircraft afire. This photo was taken 17 December, 1941. Fire damage is visible and well as some parts already scavenged. This aircraft is now on display at The Pacific Aviation Museum at Ford Island, Pearl Harbor. Ejector sink marks removed with putty and sanding pen. Following primer of Gunze 1500 Black I applied Gunze 127 Interior for cockpit area and tub assembly. Moving forward to detail paint and Aotake finish applied with mix of Tamiya clears (11 parts X19 Smoke, 10 parts X23 Blue, 1 part X25 Green). Heavily thinned then a few passes on a silver base of Alclad Aluminum. IP complete using kit decals and clear lenses.
  18. Ok, I am a strong proponent of this GB, and feel my fellow modellers should sometimes be ready to move out of their comfort range of guns-and-bombs-bristling-camoed-WWII-fighters ! I therefore hope this thread will be an encouragement for them to try something different, just as I am doing here. If you know me, or have read some of my posts, you will know that I have always professed NEVER to build a Spitstang or Messerwulf, and that my stash has more resin and esoteric injected plastic than most would consider lawful But only fools never change their mind, so here is (another) entry from me in this GB, AND my first Tamiya kit ever , AND my first Spifire ever! Now if this is not a proof of the bad influence of LSP on my firmly-set beliefs, what will be ? So here is my entry, with the compulsory "starting shots" and comments, more to take a date, as I have another one to complete in the "Jurassic Plastic" GB first, but I am now commited : Tamiya's (gorgeous, I reckon, from fondling the sprues) Spitfire Mk IXc It will be built as the famous MH434, in its G-ASJV silver, white and blue livery. No guns, not a hint a Dark Green or Ocean Grey or Medium Sea Grey ! ( I am willing to "compromise" my standards, but not to that point, guys, besides the explicit GB rules ! ) And even though it can be built OOB from all the threads I have read here, i have added a few AM, that I hope will improve on the fantastic kit base: RAM decals RAM32-002 "G-ASJV" decals sheet - that was the minimum for the entry anyway Yahu Models YMA3220 Spitfire Mk IX early instrument panel, which is the absolute bees knees when it comes to finesse of details some BarracudaCast replacements : the rock covers with the Rolls_royce logos, the 4-slot maninwheels, the door with the separate crowbar (which was possibly red in G-ASJV livery times ), the seat with leather backpad, the starboard cokpit sidewall, and finally the cockpit upgrade set with finer-than-the-kit details such as the control stick or throttle quadrant and finally, a RB Productions Sutton QS QL QP, which I conjectured would have been fitted on G-ASJV when she was sporting her blue/white/silver livery. And finally, if you ask about my "Spirit of Africa" build thread here as well, it is not forgotten, and will be continued. I felt however that interjecting an "easier" kit could be a good boost to my modelling time and possibly to the interest of this GB for my fellow LSPers. (As as side comment, I just hope that life will be more gentle for my modelling than the last week (although it looks pretty grim right now) and will spare me some bench-time in the near future. and btw, my Gee Bees build on the "Jurassic Plastic" GB has progressed, but I need to oragnise and write-up the description of this update, and that will not be before another 10 days I suspect) Thanks for enduring my ramblings ! Hubert
  19. Hello one and all, If I may, I'd like to share a little progress on my current project. I recognise a number of names from other forums so to you guys, apologies for posting this stuff since I guess you've seen it before. For those members who like to stay within the comfortable walls of LSP, I hope there are one or two things that you might find interesting along the way. Typically, my builds are long drawn out affairs so I hope you have some stamina and a fair amount of patience. I like to try to squeeze every last ounce of value out of these big kits so I often spend some time tweeking bits here and there. I would describe myself as more of an enthusiast rather than an expert so if you have anything to share please feel free to add any and all comments or techniques. I'd rather someone point issues out or offer alternative ways of doing something than let me go off in the wrong direction blissfully unaware of easier/better ways of doing stuff. I'm a little way into the build already so these early posts will come thick and fast. Once we've caught up to date, expect things to slow to a more glacial pace. INDEX p1. Jet exhausts. Beaver tail mods. TCS. Forward fuselage mods. Ventral fins. Fuselage underside and Sparrow missile troughs. Scratch built air con vents. Intake trunking. Vertical tails. Scratch built upper fuselage vents. p2. Wing joint mods. Wing leading edge mod. Engine fairing tweeks. Main wheel bay alterations. Windscreen, IP and (Aires) cockpit. Seats (start) p3. Seats (finished) Canopy. Missile rail. LANTIRN pod and pylon. Fuel tanks. Boarding ladder recess. Canopy locking hooks. Nose wheel bay. (start) Front gear leg. Tail hook. p4. Wheeliant wheels main wheels. Nose wheel bay (finished) p5. Nose section paint, sunglasses and decals. p7. Auxilliary bypass vents (start) p8. Aux bypass vents (cont). Quickboost resin intake plugs. Horizontal tails. p9. Main wings. On to the build then and like many modellers, I'll deviate from the instructions when it suits me. Whereas Tamiya suggest the builder start with the cockpit and front wheel bay area (more of that at a later date), I turned my attention to the blunt end first. For me, there are three main areas of interest on a modern jet fighter. These are, in no particular order, the cockpit, the landing gear and the jet pipes/nozzles. Each of these three areas are prominent and eye-catching for different reasons. So, I started dabbling with the jet pipes to begin the build. *NB* A company called PitzModels is developing an etched metal exhaust nozzle which is likely to render the folowing redundant The Black Knights boxing of the Tamiya kit offers better shaped exhaust petals than original releases. Much better than before, that does n't mean we can't tweek them a little to try to get the best from them. I scored some elongated dimples at the tip of each petal and added several rows of rivets. I then thinned the petals and cut them apart after I'd hollowed out the rear of the slot that runs down the centre of each petal. I filled the void with inner petals shaped out of metal foil and then painted the finished assembly with MetalColor from GS
  20. Here's my final build of the year. I finished it with just under 6 hours left in the year. This was the first plane I've done with any significant weathering so that was some skill building for me. Sorry if the photos aren't that great but they were the best I could do.
  21. Hello all, Thought I'd kick the year off be posting a couple of images of this tribute to Edgar Brooks. I began this build during the GB but stalled when I got distracted. During the holidays I have been able to re-visit it and finally finish my tribute to Edgar. Better late than never. Hope you enjoy the end result. I had hoped to be able to display the model all buttoned up but the intake under the nose does n't want to come off anymore. I managed to batter the kit stencils into submission but chickened out with the larger markings which were masked and painted. sluggo kindly provided the masks which worked beautifully, thanks Randy. The cannon are metal items and fitted perfectly. Really a top notch product. Also, the wheels are resin items from Barracuda studios. Excellent product and heartily recommended. The finish is Tamiya AS whizz can with a coat of clear gloss lacquer over it from Montana Gold spray cans. I then toned that down in places with Valejo satin varnish before weathering with various mediums from Games Workshop inks through water colour pencils to pastel chalks. I finally gave up trying to use Photobucket and reverted to Joomeo but it's a while since I use that site so hope the images show up for everyone. Any comments, good or bad, are most welcome. Cheers.
  22. Hello all, It’s been a while since I have posted; in fact, it’s been a while since I’ve been building. But with encouragement from Peter, I decided to post the rest of this build. I’m sure that almost everyone has read all of the glowing reports about this Tamiya kit. I won’t add much to what we already know except to say that my experience has been the same. Everything really does fit amazingly well. It fits so well that in the couple of cases where it didn’t, I ultimately found out that it was my fault. So be warned when you build this kit. Dry fit everything and if you find a problem, back step until you find where you went wrong. My only complaint is the it’s a vastly over-engineered kit. I think we are all used to building cockpits, for example, where we know that not everything, heck, maybe not hardly anything ends up being visible. But it’s still worth it because it’s fun. I exceeded my fun factor on this kit when it came to gluing together multiple parts to make the assemblies where the flaps fit into the trailing edge. But, that’s just me and I’ll get off my soapbox now. In spite of the kit having a beautiful (stunning) engine, I decided to do the Eduard Brassin engine because the visible surface detailing is gorgeous. But, I’ve waiting till close to the end of the build to get cracking on it. The photo below shows the engine block and front housing as well as one of the cylinders. It’s painted gloss black as a prelude to using Alclad Aluminum on the cylinder fins. How, you may ask, am I going to mask each of the cylinders? Well, I got myself some Mr. Mask and some Mr. Mask Neo. The difference between them is ???, but I’m hoping that they will enable me to mask the cylinder heads in a reasonable period of time. The engine also has pushrods (scale) and even spark plugs. I’m going to have to do some careful drilling and fitting. Photo etch for the engine includes a couple of odds and ends and the wiring harness. I’m undecided at this point about using the PE wiring harness. I have some .015 solder which may be closer to a scale look, so I’m going to see what I think and then retreat to the PE, if necessary. There’s not a lot to say about the rest of the photos. At this point, the fuselage, center wing, outer wings, horizontal stab and elevators, vertical stab and rudder are all done except for final sanding, polishing, and rescribing. Although not pictured here, the landing gear is complete as well. Remaining to be done are some final sanding and finishing, primer, paint, decals, and final assembly. And, oh yes, the engine and cowl assembly. It’s been a lot of fun so far, and I’m hoping you will enjoy the rest of the build with me. John
  23. Hi Judy: Last we talked you confirmed that your 1/32 Big Beautiful Doll decals were scaled up from your 1/48 scale decals and we discovered they don't fit the nose of the Tamiya 1/32 model without extensive modifications. Have you made changes to that set yet or are you going to? Looking forward to using one of your Mosquito sets on an upcoming build! Thanks, Chris
  24. Having just completed my What If? Mustang GB, I was planning on getting back to my CT-133 build but this kit just kept staring at me since I picked it up last week. So onto the new cleared bench it went. Most of the bags are open from having posted pics of the sprues in another thread. AM will consist of new seat belts and decals once they come out. Carl
  25. IJ001

    'Mrs. Bonnie' P-51K

    Hello folks Been a long time since I asked for folks ideas here, but because I’m planning-on building the Tamiya 1:32 Mustang (and the implied ‘cost’ of this kit), I thought it may be a good idea to get some thoughts before I start hacking away at it. I’m going to build Bill Dunhams’ ‘Mrs. Bonnie’ as it was right at the end of the war in summer 1945. The aircraft is a P-51K-10 it's quite well known as it was featured in some publicity photos in August or September. As you can see, despite it being a Dallas-built ‘K’ it has the cuffed Hamilton props and spinner – the blade profile and decals give-it-away – also the whole of the spinner is painted red/yellow/blue & black (front to rear). This is fine as the kit I’m using is the initial Tamiya release, 60322 (which also has the ‘Dallas’ canopy in the box too). Now here’s the part where I need your insight & thoughts – Tamiya in their paint & decal instructions show ‘Mrs Bonnie’ with the ‘correct’ Aeroproducts spinner & blades but also would have you paint the spinner back-plate NMF, the colours being the same but compressed. Has anyone got a photo that confirms the Tamiya instructions – just being curious, I’m one of those folks who likes to have as much info as possible… Thanks in advance folks, over to you. Ian. ps Special thanks to Ben (PCBEN80) for supplying the decals all the way from the USA to 'Middle Earth', really appreciate it, matey !!
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