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Found 14 results

  1. Hi everybody This is my first WIP and also my first model in about 15 years or so. I used to build small scale planes, AFV's and sci-fi models when i was a teen. Been lurking around LSP for the last few years and felt it was about time to get back into modelbuilding. I am building the Me 262A-1a flown by Kommandeur of III./JG 7, Major Rudolf Sinner. This plane had a distinctive camoscheme of diagonal stripes. For a short period of time in January 1945 the plane carryed out air trials with the WGr 21 air-to-air mortar. I got the following stuff for the build: Trumpy Me 262 A-1a Mastercasters wheels Aires cockpit and wheelwell detail set Eduard Big Ed Shatton modelbau 21 cm Werfer Gerate Shells+tubes Eagle Cals decals RB seatbelts Please feel free to comment Mikkel
  2. Hi guys, this is my new project. It is the new Revell kit with aditional Eduard AM (brassin wheels, interior PE, exterior PE, pre coloured steel seat belts and masks) I know that there is perfect detailed build thread already in WIP. My goal is to keep it as relaxing project next to my resin projects. I am no expert in Luftwaffe planes but I like almost all of them and Me 262 is one of my favourite. just beautiful plane (two seater as well ) I want to learn to paint late war Luftwaffe camo on this one, so will keep build simple and clean. And spend most time with painting and weathering. No open engine cowlings or gun bay. I will put more efort in detailing some visible parts like cockpit and engine intakes only. build fundamentals... have started with puting main fuselage parts together. I used metal pipes instead of plastic canons, because after I drilled muzzles on plastic parts I was not satisfied with results and want to save some extra space in gun bay for aditional weight. I am using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for gluing which is IMHO superior for this job. Glued joints were not cleaned yet, but it will require only smooth sanding and some minor panel lines rescribing I was really suprised that there are no fit issues so far. Everything fits together really well. And some clever engineering for open panels and especially for wing joints. just litlle cleaning and it fits together in perfect dihedral geometry. I like such simple approach and dry fit test of wings and fuselage thanks for looking and any comments are welcome jan
  3. Hi Guy's this is my latest project - Well almost ready for inspection... Finally I got around to do some work on this one, restarted 3-4 years ago trying to bring this old kit up to some speed. It's another one of those old kits tucked away in an cardbox in the attic from 40 years ago... Hasegawa's 1/32 Messerschmitt Me 262A1-a Werknummer 111711 by Messerschmitt AG test pilot Hans Fay. I wanted to do one of the Me 262's without no paint job, trying not to get the aluminum to get too 'shiny' The photos of the original, shows a very worn, puttied surface that I tried to replicate my way. Painting: Alclad aluminium, sanded back and some very matt putty mixed from primer paint. RLM 76 in some places. Some extra detailing was done to show one of the engines, the MG and radio compartment. Aires cockpit and Eduard PE. Tell me what you think, I'm thinking of adding even some more putty?? Regards: Kent
  4. Hi Everyone, Just been prompted to give an update, as I contract out for parts I do not have the tools for I tend to be at the mercy always of other people time scales! The replacement 388 L-1 is a suck in vac rather than a suck over vac. The dimensions of the former fit much better. Examples were sent to me which were too thin, more samples were sent to me just the same sadly and so I hope the message has been received and they are in the pipeline. I hate waiting for others - especially when clear instructions are ignored - had the message about the thickness been actioned we would have them by now. As for the 388 J-1 again the delay is the canopy - I could have it available all ready with a vac form canopy but every body wants a clear resin canopy and so the master has been sent to Bob at MDC. He is a good man and a friend but his hands are full. i hope that before April he can get a suck in mould made, use 1mm vac material to make a suck in copy thick enough to turn into a master for casting in clear resin. Me 262 A-1a/U3 decals should arrive at end of next week according to Ray at Fantasy Printshop and these include the decals for the 388 J. so it is just the canopy that we are waiting for. Best wishes and a Happy New Year to all my friends and customers John
  5. Hi guys, this is my recently finished Me 262B-1. It was a lot of fun to put this together and paint it. You can find WIP thread here AM used: Euard Brassin wheels Eduard PE Interior and Exterior + PE seatbelts Master Model Fug 218 antennas Thanks for looking jan
  6. Hi everyone, thanks for all the encouragement and support along the way, Thanks to Chris and Steve for photos as well. I might try and get some photos taken with a nice field in the background instead of my garden wall but it 24 in the shade at the moment and there is not a cloud in the sky so photos will be terrible not to mention the model might melt or fall apart on the way thanks to our wonderful Hungarian roads which are world famous. Enjoy and thanks for looking and you know what to do if you want to buy anything
  7. Here's my Me 262 A-1a Kit: Revell Scale: 1/72 Replacement parts: the starboard engine is a resin part by CMK. While this part is very nicely detailed, it leaves a sizeable gap at the joint between the engine and wing. To fill in the gap, I used generous amounts of Tamiya putty. After lots of wet sanding, the gap was gradually filled in and smoothed. It took a lot of elbow grease, though! The canopy is by Rob Taurus. It's very clear and looks great. In contrast, the canopy supplied by the kit is thick, a poor fit, and has no framing. Scratch-built details: epoxy (wheel bay and interior side-wall components), and thin, transparent hobby wires for the electrical wiring. I also used a spare rod from an academy Me 262 kit. I trimmed this piece with a hobby knife, and glued it next to the canopy tub. In the Revell kit, the details in the wheel bay and underneath the cockpit tub are great. Unfortunately and inexplicably, however, Revell decided to cover up the wheel wheels!!! Using a sharp hobby knife, I removed the plastic covering up the wheel wells. Next, I did a bit of sanding to smooth out the wheel wells' edges. Main Paints: Tamiya As-16 Light Grey, As-29 Grey-Green, AS-12 Bare Metal silver, Xf-22 RLM Grey; Model Master (Enamels) RLM 70 & 71 I hand-painted the squiggles on the wings' uppersurface using a very fine, sharp-pointed Tamiya brush (Item 87074). I used enamel Model Master RLM 70 for these dark green squiggles. The original photos of the subject aircraft reveal that these squiggles on the wings were crisp and rather well-delineated. On the other hand, the same photos show that the squiggles on the fuselage were somewhat wider and definitely less well delineated. The squiggles on the fuselage also show two distinct tones, whereas the monotone appearance of the squiggles on the wings suggests the use of one very dark color. The base color for the wings is Tamiya AS-29 Grey-Green. The fuselage base color is AS-16 light grey. The squiggles on the fuselage consist of the Model Master paints for RLM 70 &71. For the fuselage squiggles, I traced the outlines on thin notecards. I then cut around the outlines with a hobby knife. In this way, I used pieces of notecard as templates. I taped the templates onto the fuselage with bits of Tamiya masking tape before spraying the relevant areas with the airbrush. This process was very time-consuming! Speaking of airbrushes, this was my first experience using one. Some of the squiggles on the fuselage were painted with a very basic Tamiya badger 350 airbrush, while others were painted with Tamiya's Spray Work airbrush. It wasn't until after I had already started the painting process that I upgraded and bought the Tamiya “Spray Work set. Needless to say, I found the Spray Work airbrush to be superior and it gave me much more control when painting. Decals: A mix of Cutting Edge decals and EagleCals decals. In my experience, EagleCals decals are the best. They are very thin and slide on beautifully. Check out the decal representing the rectangular shaped stencil underneath the windscreen on the port side. I got it from a decal sheet belonging to a Limited Edition hasegawa kit. Any comments and feedback is much appreciated! Regards, Jon
  8. HI everyone, just sent this off to get a test shot, together with my 32PE001 Me 262 'Engine set' I hope this 'wing set' will give you all the options you will like in how to display the Trumpeter 262.
  9. Hi everyone, making my own 262 and borrowing the amazing JaPo books made me unable to resist doing a dedicated Me 262 reccon decal sheet which is now off to the printers (Fantasy printshop). Due to the pics in the JaPo book I discovered that not the W.Nr. I had provided on my decal sheet 32D007 for 'White 33' was incorrect in many ways. I have thus been able to re-do it - photos are everything when it comes to decal design. Anyway I hope you like this and will want one when available. Now on to something else hehe! I love my job! PS I do have a master on the go for the unique camera fairing on 'White 3' and these sheets will also be in 1/48 and 1/72 for those interested and still have eyesight! PPS on the sheet there are some made up W.Nrs. for those aircraft where it is not known but you want to put something on it
  10. Pastor John


    Hi everyone, as you know I am building a 1/32 Trumpeter Me 262 using my reccon conversion at the mo, having decided to have both the upper engine cowls open I have had to spend time looking at photos of all the plumbing and decided I am going to stop and produce an aftermarket product that will help make things look better - namely a small sheet of 4 thou thick 1mm wide hexagons with a 0.5mm hollow center for wire. I think at the same time I might produce a small set just of the latches as otherwise I will have to cannibalise 2x sets of my Me 262 A1a/U3 conversion just to get enough latches for have these upper cowls open, I will include enough latches of the frame for cannon bay and both engines plus spares. Hope there will be some interest, thanks for reading John
  11. Hi guys, I am back to work on a project that I started before the Ju 388 took over, with a lull in that battle in progress I can return to the camera versions of the Me 262. I had already got the fairings 3D printed and the photo etch framework done but now I need to tweak everything and then start the inside. Best wishes John
  12. Hello everyone, This is my Me 262 by Academy. The markings and paint scheme represent "Black 4." This Me 262 served with JG7 and was found abandoned at an airfield in Prague. The decals are mostly from Cutting Edge. I used Tamiya paints, including AS 23(light green), AS 24 (dark green),and AS 5 (light blue). Based on my interpretation of the black and white photos and commentary I've read about "Black 4," I went for an overall RLM 83 upper-surface. For the replacement nose section,I tried to make it look like a very light shade of RLM 76. I sprayed multiple coats of Tamiya AS5 and TS 27 (Matt White) in an attempt to achieve this effect. Enjoy! Please let me know what you think. >Jon
  13. Hello, everyone. I'm working on a Revell 1/72 Me 262. I've attached and glued on a resin, replacement engine to the wing. However, after attaching the engine, I noticed there was a long gap that runs between the side of the engine and the kit part. I filled this gap with grey tamiya putty ("basic type") and have sanded it quite a bit, but the surface of the puttied area still looks rough. Any thoughts about how I can improve the appearance of the puttied area? How can I get it to blend in better with the wing? Help! Any advice would be tremendously appreciated! >Jon
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