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  1. Hello all! Recently I purchased a 3D printer - Elegoo Saturn 2 - which has the potential to transform my modelling. Those of you who follow me know that my recently completed 1/18 scale build (F4U-1A Corsair) benefitted from a good bit of 3D printed parts almost all of which I designed myself but had printed by a capable fellow in the UK. Since then, I now have the means to do my own printing, if only I can get good enough at it. So my next project, if all goes well, is to create a very accurately shaped P-51 in 1/18 scale. At this point I am undecided whether to do a B/C variant (razorback) or a D variant (bubble canopy). My first choice would be a -B with a Malcolm hood modification, followed by a -D as a second choice. I would prefer not to do a straight up -B razorback (or maybe better known as a "greenhouse" canopy version), as Peter Castle (Airscale) has done his incredible Lopes Hope in 1/18 already, and I would prefer not to tread on that hallowed ground. The only available kit I know of a P-51 in 1/18 is from 21st Century toys or whatever it turned into over the years - a D model. They are long out of production but can be found on E-bay for inflated prices. I actually have one, but I will not be using it because it has too many inaccuracies. Years ago, though, I heavily modified just such an animal resulting in "Miss Velma": That satisfied my goals at the time, which was to take an existing large toy model and do my best to make it look real. Miss Velma, like many P-51 models in many scales, has shape inaccuracies, and can be greatly improved upon, and that is what I intend to do. So I have three important ingredients in which to do this: 1. Aircorps Library - they have a full set of engineering drawings for the P-51 variants, including "ordinate" drawings, which are tables of point coordinates that define the shapes of the outer surfaces of the aircraft (and even some inside shapes like throats of intakes). These ordinate drawings will allow me to create surface definition in any scale very accurately. 2. CAD modelling software - I have been using Rhino 7 for a couple years now, and it is indispensable for layouts, part definition, and 3D printing. I am no expert user, but I get by. 3. 3D Printing. This will be the first time I will have tried to make 3D printed parts the primary components of the build. Previously I have used it simply to augment an existing model. This is my weak link. I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to 3D printing. To start, I am in the process of converting point data, obtained from vintage engineering drawings, into Rhino surfaces - hopefully for the entire airframe. Here are examples of the point data vintage 1940's: There is also wing data that I have not shown. I can produce points in space from those tables, and connect them with curves in Rhino - like this: Very laborious and monotonous, I can say. Not too surprisingly, the Rhino model is showing what looks alot like a P-51. It better - the good folks at North American back in the '40's used the same data to build the tools used to manufacture the airframe. From there, and after some time-consuming schooling on primary surfacing, with classes available on YouTube, I used those curves to create a bunch of patches: Clearly I am not finished. Those patches can be combined to make a single compound-curved surface, or larger surfaces. I also have wing lofts, done a different way: P-51 wings have single curvature which is to say they are defined by straight line elements. Which is to say that you can have a contour at the inboard end, and a similar smaller contour at the outboard end, and you have fully defined the wing surfaces simply by lofting between them along straight line elements. That is what I did above. You see two lofts - the basic wing, and the inboard extended leading edge - a feature of the -D model, but not the -B model. That extended leading edge is also single curvature. Far and away the most difficult detail to surface so far has been the carb air intake below the prop spinner. After days of applying everything I learned in most of 14 classes I took on primary surfacing techniques, and episodes of tearing my hair out and occasionally walking off in a huff, I got this: It is not perfect, but any inaccuracies are measured in hundredths of an inch at full scale - which is infinitesimal at 1/18 scale. So, unlike a whole lot of P-51 models out there, this "smiley face" detail is deadly accurate. BTW - the Tamiya 1/32 P-51 has a very accurate smiley face, and I am convinced their designers had access to the point data that I have used. Next post you will see a test part of this detail, in 1/18 scale. I also have a complete surface for the prop spinner, done months ago: That was a breeze compared with the other surfacing efforts to date. Just a contour curve rotated around the thrust axis. In theory, if I can have a fully defined set of surfaces for the P-51, defined in Rhino in full scale, I can scale to 1/18 and create just about everything from them. A pretty exciting prospect, and easier said than done! Next post I will show the results of some test parts. I hope this build generates some interest; it's going to be a big challenge. P.S. - if any of you Mustang experts out there have any information on the Malcolm hood - like shapes and cross sections, well that would probably clear the way for me to do the B-model!
  2. I show here the culmination of approximately 4 1/2 years of on again off again work on what was a Blue Box Toy Corsair in 1/18 scale. The build thread can be found here: Here is a picture of it before I began the work: The aim was to convert it from a -1D into a -1A (VF-17 Jolly Rogers), greatly improve the realism in general, provide an openable engine compartment and engine accessories compartment, improve the cockpit and gear bays and landing gear. Along the way many new skills were learned including aluminum skinning and 3D printing (plus learning the computer CAD program necessary for creating digital parts to print), and my first use of the airbrush. Also, as has been the case with all my 1/18 projects, I made extensive use of original engineering drawings found at Aircorps Library, to help me scratch build parts. The first year of the project was dedicated to the R-2800-8 radial engine that powered the Corsair. Before installing it into the aircraft it looked like this: It is scratch built 100%, and many parts were turned on a mini-lathe. So that it would not be completely hidden when installed, I was compelled to make the engine cowl panels and accessory compartment panels removable. For your inspection, first the buttoned up shots: Photos are a bit amateur - sorry about that. I will divide this up into two posts. The next one will show some details, and shots with engine cowls removed. That is where you will also find my acknowledgements to all the modelers who helped me out - there are many!
  3. Hello fellow modelers. I now embark on my 4th and final 1/18 scale mod project - an F4U Corsair. My past efforts have been a P-51D (Miss Velma), a P-38J (Lucky Lady), and a P-47D (Glen Eagleston's Eagle). You can find articles on the P-51 and P-38, and WIP and RFI posts on the P-47 on this site, if interested. All three took more than two years each, and I expect the Corsair will too. At least. Here are the customary "before" shots: Cool huh? I obtained this toy/model a few years ago along with the P-38 at a local hobby shop where a whole bunch of these large toys were donated by an estate. As you all probably know, these things are no longer manufactured. The manufacturer is Blue Box (probably originally 21st Century Toys). The date on this one is 2005. To my eye at the time, it looked realistic enough to be a good mod project. My plan is to greatly improve the following items: Engine (all new scratch build, including back section) Engine compartment including engine mount Cockpit Landing gear Gear bays Wing fold mechanisms Flaps Ailerons Elevators Rudder And there will be smaller projects as well too numerous to list, similar to what I did with the other aircraft, except even more ambitious. I hope my eyes are not bigger than my stomach here - it is entirely possible I run out of steam somewhere along the way, or not get up to speed at all. After all, I just finished the P-47. But I think not. I'll take my time and try not to put any pressure on myself (yeah right!). So when I sat down and really inspected this toy, I saw things I like, and things I don't like. As usual there are lots and lots of inaccuracies that are fixable - I expect that. Here is what I did not expect - I was very disappointed to see that the engine cowling is not correctly shaped. I mean it is deal breaker to me unless I can fix it. Here is what I mean: The engine cowling has a round cross-section just like it should. But it should also have a slight taper as shown in this side profile (drawing VS-33001): Can you see it? The taper is slight but noticeable (at least to my eye). Now look at the toy model: From the cowl flaps forward, this cowling has a constant cross-section. No taper at all until you get to the front end. This sticks out like a sore thumb, makes the nose look bulbous. So what to do. Well, this model is going to get a complete engine anyway, with removable cowl panels. So the cowl flaps and panels over the engine will be replaced anyway. The nose cowl must be salvaged (I know not how to make one). The fuselage aft of the cowl flaps is just fine shape-wise. The typical gage of the plastic is .08 inch - robust. After some research it turns out that if the nose cowl could be decreased in diameter by about .08 inch (.04 inch on the radius), and reshaped to blend out the shape, I would still have about .04 inch gage to work with on the nose cowl, and I would get the slight taper I want. Some of you know I own a small desktop lathe (a Unimat). So I decided to try to turn the cowling on the lathe. To do this, I had to lop off the cowling: I was thinking at this point if this blows up in my face, I will just not do this project at all. Here is the cowling on the lathe chuck: Ha! My lathe is intended to work with raw material no larger than about 2 inch diameter. This cowling is a bit over 3 inches diameter! I had to put a large spacer under the head stock mount (see it - its that silver spacer). I had to mount the cowling very carefully - no wobble allowed. Then I rotated the head stock about 2 deg and proceeded to turn material off the nose: Then I removed the nose cowl: Success - that worked way better than I thought. So I am off to the races. I guess the engine is going to be first on the list. The Corsair was powered by the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 double wasp, as was the P-47 Thunderbolt. For the P-47, I dedicated about 6 months of my life scratch building a R-2800. And it didn't include the aft section. This time, I intend to make use of 3D printing in some way. At the very least, the cylinders will be 3D printed. So perhaps it will not take so long and not be as tedious. Hope you can look in from time to time! See ya!
  4. Placeholder at present whilst I finish writing a review - but this will be my build of a 1:32 3D Print in ABS of the Andover by One Man Model. Plan is to eventually finish her as a 115 Squadron E.Mk 3A, based at RAF Benson in the '80s and early '90s... Back shortly... Iain
  5. G'day guys, Since this topic seems to come up about every 3 months, I thought I'd show you what can be done if you want it badly enough These parts are just a rough trial, but my initial impressions are that it improves the look of the kit immensely. It also *should* be compatible with most of the existing kit parts once I've got it properly cleaned up, apart from a new instrument panel/#3 bulkhead of course and the cockpit glazings.... Anyway, I thought I'd share it here in case you miss my build. Cheers, Craig
  6. Jumping between 1/16 projects at the moment. This will be a design, 3D print, & build project, much like my Bushmaster & M113s. The Boxer combat reconnaissance vehicle (CRV) is a ~40 metric tonne 8x8 armoured roller skate being introduced into service in the Australian Army. Not without some hiccups along the way, it should mature into a capable truck in time. This was the vehicle that prompted me to learn CAD in the first place, with the initial intent to convert a flat pack styrene “kit” of the flat top Boxer. Turns out it’s easier to design the whole vehicle. Roughed out the basic hull…again! The lower hull geometry is complicated, to say the least. Only modelling one half at the moment. The lower hull is symmetrical, apart from minor details. Boxer is modular insofar as each vehicle comprises a drive module & an interchangeable “mission module”. The Lance turreted mission module is uniquely Australian. Time will tell whether that’s a good or bad thing! Trying something different for the turret interface that’ll clip in and allow 360 degree rotation. This design has taken a daily session over the five days. When I started CAD 18 months ago, this would’ve taken months!
  7. Hi folks, in this thread, I will show you some of my ongoing projects - mostly carrier based vehicles used by the US Navy and Marines. This thread is not about the well-known vehicles or kits already available on the market but about the stuff nobody has (yet) cared about. This means: scratch building - using oldschool and 'modern' techniques. Two and different projects are currently in the making. The first one is the carrier based deck sweeper - in both 'early' (short) and 'late' (long) versions. The CAD files are still in progress; the 'early' version is almost finished, though. Early version: The 'late' version looks like this - as already mentioned, there is more work to do on this one: The second one is the new carrier tractor which is being used on the Teddy Roosevelt since mid 2014. This one already 'exists' on my desk - here is what it looks like: Sadly, it is extremely difficult to find good photos and informations about these vehicles. I am pretty sure I have most informations and/or pics available on the net, but if anybody has pics, drawings or whatever of these vehicles, I would be very thankful if you'd be willing to share your information. High-resolution pics are also welcome as many of the photos on the net are rather small. I will try to update this thread on a regular basis - comments, critique and questions are welcome as usual!
  8. Hello The last 2 years, I was busy with this quite demanding project. And now I am pretty happy to finally share the result . I built side by side two Kittyhawk boxings, both in French Markings: a Mirage 2000-5F during Operation Harmattan (Lybia) in 2011, and a 2000D from Operation Chammal (Iraq/Syria) in 2015. The builds were far from "From the box" so to say... Kittyhawk... well is Kittyhawk you know. Interesting subject, quite nice details, but mistakes, lacks, or incomplete intructions. So I had to provide a lot of work to bring the models to a higher standard they deserve. It was maily done with the help of 3D printing. Non exhaustive list of addons: - Exhaust: Reskit - Cockpit -5: Renaissance - Cockpit 2000D: 3D+Quinta - Seats: Grandmodels - Wing Tanks RPL541 542: FFSMC - PE parts: Eduard - Wheels: 3D - RPL522 ventral tank: 3D - Missiles & Pylones: 3D - GUB24: 3D - Decals: Uprise et FFSMC - Figures: Reedoak The Mirage 2000-5F: And the Mirage 2000D: The full WIP is detailed in 80 pages of french Cocardes magazine, with English captions. With Mike's authorization, I share the link if you want to get a copy: Cocardes 24 Special Mirage 2000 Hope you like them! Regards Romain
  9. Placeholder whilst I finish putting a full in-box review together - this will be a fairly quick (hopefully) build in coming weeks. As an ex. Air Cadet myself (who ended up commanding a squadron as an adult) I'm really drawn by this subject, even though my early gliding was in a different type. This is a very high quality 3D printed kit, designed and made by our own Tim Perry (@wunwinglow) and shortly available to order. Will post a link to the review when I put 'live' but, in the mean time, a wee taster: "All clear above and behind - take up slack - all out!" Iain
  10. I've wanted a 3D printer for years: I first came into contact with them decades ago - but the cost was absolutely prohibative. They were very expensive/complex beasts that were the domain of industry, not the individual. However, the price/performance equation has radically changed, making such technologies the affordable domain of the common man. Now - several influences have come to play in my thinking this year: Tim Perry (@wunwinglow of this parish) is a good, and very patient, friend. As many will know, he was the man behind PP Aeroparts, the inovative, and pioneering, accessory company from the '80s. For the last couple of decades his day job has been in the rapid prototyping world - so his knowledge/experience/expertise in the field of 3D Modelling and 3D Printing is right up there with the best. And he's been nagging encouraging me to take the plunge for years. I'm currently building a Tornado F.Mk 3 with parts that Tim has designed and printed, using both FDM and SLA printers - and playing to the strengths of both. He's also been experimenting with printing HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene - the same material as plastic kits). Earlier this year I took delivery of a 1:32 Hawker Siddeley HS.780 Andover, designed and 3D Printed by Toshihiko Shimizu of One Man Model - the process of design and print of a small batch left me absolutely mesmerised by the process - and very inspired! As many will know, I've been researching/working on a fix for the wing cross section on the HobbyBoss 1:32 B-24s. I'd come up with an airfoil fix, but was looking at ways of producing a viable 'correction' set, originally looking at a series of longitudinal formers to be used with a modified spar - but modifying the kit spar to work with the new sections proved almost impossible and I parked it. Until I got the Andover - and until a few conversations with Tim - and I had that "light bulb" moment. Design as a 3D Model in CAD - print in several pieces on an FDM printer - in HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) - the same as kit plastic! But I didn't have a printer... Well, I do now - a Creality Ender 5 Pro - with a 220 x 220 x 300 print volume and capable of printing HIPS (and ABS) filament, as long as the printer is in an enclosure to keep ambient temperatures around the print high and constant, in order to prevent distortion and shrinkage. So I purchased a thermally lined and fire resistant enclosure too: OK - so new printer - needed to test print, obviously! I didn't have anything ready yet as part of my playing with CAD software - and, being a kid a heart, wanted to find something other than a cat, or frog model to do some test prints. A bit of Googling and I found a pre-drawn model of a 737-800 available to purchase and scaled to print at 1:100. The model looked really good - so I bought it! Then, well, you know how you do, I thought 'I wonder if I can scale that' - so I did - to 1:32 scale and did a few test prints of the engine, using the free PLA filament that came with the printer. So, this CFM-56 engine pod was the very firstest thing I printed with my new printer - and I was very pleased with the results: It's not small! Ignore exhaust angle - that's just loose in pod. But shapes look well researched: Now, it just so happens that the P-8 Poseidon is based on the 737-800... Can you tell where this *might* be heading? Back in a mo... Iain
  11. I've been working on adapting the 3D printed additions for my 1/32 scale OV-10 projects to a new project - a 1/8.7 scale RC OV-10A made by Motion RC. Here's a photo of the 1/32 scale rack/bombs and the 1/8.7 scale versions. I haven't actually received my RC model yet, so test-fitting and attachment work will follow. The RC model has a 55 inch wing span. In this photo the 1/32 scale bits were all printed on my DLP printer. For the huge scale version I printed the rack on an FDM printer and the bombs on a DLP printer. (NOTE: the bombs didn't quite come out right due to support failure, but they're good enough for the test fit).
  12. We take a look at this brand new, high quality, 3D printed kit from Flying Start Models - a real jewel of a kit that reflects the creators' personal link to the type. Something of interest to any former Air Cadets, or those looking for something just a little different! Will be running a build thread here. Blue skies, Iain
  13. Browsing the net for pics of Argentinian wartime Mirages, i stumbled upon pics of a 3D printed Pucará, the groundattack plane used in the Falkland/Malvinas conflict in 1982. It was 1/64 scale.....wait a minute, maybe i could get it double the size? I mailed the attached email and a guy named Luis answered. he is from Venezuela. We sent a few mails and he said he would be willing to modify the 3D files for me and have it printed by a friend (that luckily lives in Europe, better yet in Austria!) for the moderate sum of 110€ including shipping. i jumped at the opportunity, since i like building planes that are not likely being kitted anytime soon. i had him make the canopy a seperate part, 2% smaller so i can vacform a clear part, as well as hollowing out the fuselage to be able to have a scratchbuilt pit and gearwells. that was in the end of July - and yesterday i recieved it. didnt know what to expect, because resolutions can be very different. when i saw the main parts, i was really impressed. i will have to sand, but most parts are pretty good from the beginning. this is what i got:
  14. Hello fellow modelers I have recently discovered a master 3d printer called WJW Design and here is a short review of some of his products. William from WJW Design is producing a wide range of 3D printed holders from paints to glues including the notoriously easy to spill Micro Sol and Set. The first product that personally caught my attention is the modular Micro Sol and Set holder. Because yes you guest it I spilled another one recently. It starts with a magnetic base, to which there are 2 magnetic modules that are inserted to hold the Sol and set bottles and their respective brushes. Once clipped in, the setup if very solid and hold the bottle very snugly. The holder is also high enough so that if you pull your brush out and it snag on the bottle there is no way the said bottle will come out and make a mess! Here is my personal sample of this holder. At the moment of review the retail price is 12.50$usd From that point on I've been in contact with William and he has kindly built me some custom modules to go and interchange with the base. I've purchased a square Tamiya extra thin/panel line wash and a round AK real colors, Mr.Color and Tamiya acrylic . Here is my current setup Paired together the Tamiya extra thin and AK I'm also able to use Tamiya jars, mixed with the Micro-Sol holder (in practice i normally pair micro mask and some thinners in n a Tamiya jar) Other cool products are available like this brush holder (I have ordered one and will update with feedback) Here is a short product and price list. In conclusion, WJW Design holders are printed in high quality and precision, the designs are made in a very smart and efficient way im sure you will enjoy them. to add a cheery on top William is a great guy to deal with and printing, shipping cost and speed are very reasonable I strongly recommend these. I have some new additions in the mail that I cannot wait to try, one of witch is an Alclad II holder module. If you would like more information and even better get your hands-on dome of these great products Look for William Wolfe from WJW Design on Facebook. Cheers Neo
  15. Hi Guys, Back with another project that's going ahead at a cracking pace. I was at the Essex Model Show a few weeks ago and saw a Dragon 1/48 Mistel 6 on the shelf of one of the traders. So out with the fivers and I'm now the proud new owner. The week after was the Avon Show and I was on our club stand (Wiltshire Scale Modellers) and met up with Wunwinglow who took the kit with the intention of scaling up some of the parts and making them in 3D. Also got my hands on the new Revell Me-262A single seater courtesy of Andy Hills at Antics Models, another club member. I had already sourced the He-162 online, ordered a CMK Ejection Seat and a Yahu IP. A Kit: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr A Book: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr An Idea! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More to come!
  16. Hi I'm looking for pictures showing the seat support on the table or bench. I searched in the internet but all pictures are only showing the top and current for me the lower part is importand. Finally the 3D drawing is almost done and before the 3D print in 1/32 start, I would like to know how good the drawing is. So does anyone of you have a seat support stored in the basement and can take pictures for me Drawing of the seat support ( was very time consuming for me) and finally the Armor-plate were the seat-support belongs Regards Ralph
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