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Happy to announce hollow, 3D-printed Merlin engine exhausts, optimized to fit the new-tool Revell P-51D-5 kit, are now available. They can be adapted for other 1/32 scale Merlin-powered Mustang kits. The exhausts are left- and right-handed, feature nut detail, and are printed in "Frosted Extreme Detail" acrylic plastic by Shapeways. They sell for $7.36 USD per pair. Link: http://shpws.me/Q8P5 For the last four years, Model Monkey has been specializing in 3D-printed products for ship and armor modelers. This is the first design for aircraft modelers. There will be more. Best wishes and happy modeling! - Steve Larsen Catalog of over 1600 designs for scale modelers:https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey

Guys, I'm building the new Revell Mustang (like everyone 🤓) and am enjoying it so far until... ...a few days ago I lost the after-deck part to the carpet monster. I've sent Revell a request for a replacement but I don't count too much on it. So I decided to replicate it in plasticard. Looks like it's not too complicated to do. But then I need to understand what I'm trying to replicate, details like the part in silver and the engraved semi-circle ... Can you, Mustang experts inform me so that I could go on with my build? Thank you all Quang

Hello! Finished my first piloted LSP build, a Caudron 714 in gaudy colours. Time to start a new build. Another prop with another odd paintjob. How about a North American Texan in the Heart of Darkness? Just one word: Biafra. A lot of darkness, indeed. And some small aircraft. Regards - dutik

Hi, I now have a limited number of revised and improved 1/32 scale Norden Bombsight kits ready to sell online. The kit makes one 1/32 scale Norden Bombsight that can be built in a number of configurations appropriate for the HK B-17 E/F/G, HK B-25J and the forthcoming HobbyBoss B-24. Purchase at my website: www.robertmrozowski.com

Hello all, I thought id try something a little ambitious on this 109 as I had three sets of decals for a Fliegerkompanie J-371 Bf-109 E-3, I guess I swung away from doing it before as the size of the decals was a little scary. So I painted it up ready for the decals knowing I had a degree of safety having three sets to get it right............hmmmmm! I gave up,and then broke out the masking tape for a masking marathon ​. In hindsight, it was the only way to get this scheme done and I am pretty happy with the overall result. All comments are welcome

Since a topic appeared on the Trumpeter Ju87D, I'm curious about the two subject kits and I thought I'd start my own topic rather than subject that topic to scope creep. Just for my own knowledge, how does the Trumpeter Ju87D stack up to the Hasegawa Ju87D (or vice versa); the latter being somewhat difficult to acquire and expensive if found. For that matter, how do the kits fall short? I know there's no such thing as the perfect model but since I have very little knowledge of the Stuka, I'd be interested to know the pros and cons of both kits. For the sake of arguments, lets keep personal opinions out as much as humanly possible.... This is NOT, repeat NOT a manufacturer/kit bashing thread. If it turns that way, I'll ask the offending replies to be deleted and if they continue, the thread to be locked, depriving myself and the community of what I think would be beneficial information. I'm only interested in comparing and contrasting the two kits against each other and to the original article. If claims can't be backed up by credible evidence (no hearsay), I'd rather it not be brought into the discussion. I'd really like to avoid the distasteful, caustic and thread-locking replies and will ask that any such replies be deleted by the moderators (As we all know, they have the final say on the disposition on any reply). Accuracy, fidelity of details, overall fit, etc. are all good topics. Disagreement is to be expected but if it's not presented with respect, I'll also ask that it be deleted (again, if the moderators have not already acted). If there is merit in the reply, I may (again, through and at moderator discretion) ask that the author edit the post and remove the offending text and allow the rest to remain. In the end, I want the best available information distilled from the community that I can get should I decide to purchase a Ju87D kit. I have but one or two references on the 87 and they're very basic at best. I've come close to buying the Hasegawa kit a couple of times but begged off at the last second. Maybe it was for a reason? Let's hear what the you all have to say....

Hello guys, I took these photos of a former VNAF Skyraider on display in Saigon. Incidentally the propeller blades on this plane are mounted backwards (back to front). Should they be mounted properly, I wouldn't have noticed this curious detail: a small angled 'ledge' running lengthwise on the trailing edge of the blade. Now that I know it's there, I can see it on several other Skyraider photos although it's hard to notice since the 'ledge' is located on the back of the propeller. Can you A-1 experts shed some light on this curious detail? Thank you Quang

Since Gaz asked me to add photos of my P-40F, as I was searching my "man-cave", I ran across this build I did a while back: [ [ The kit's pilot was not good as good as a 1/48 scale figure in a Monogram Mustang. But at the time I did this one the very nice AM cockpit and harness detail sets weren't available. [ Once again, since I had no airbrush at the time, it was painted with Testors enamels and MM acrylics, hand bristle brushed.

Dear forum members and our modeller friends; As TANMODEL we are very pleased to announce our new project to you. We completed the 3D design of 1/32 scale Sukhoi Su-33 project that we have been working on for about 8 months and is ready to start production. We would like to thank our modelling engineering consultant Mr. Cumali AYGUN (Turkey) who provided support to Tanmodel's specialized design team, especially our SU-33 expert Mr. Hakan OKAY (Turkey), Vladimir NAZAROV (Russia) who checked our design during the creation of our design. The specifications of our kit are provided below. We will share the details of our kit with you in LSP forum same time tomorrow and we would like to answer your questions. We hope you will like our project as well. Our other 1/32 project will of course be as much detailed as this project. You can follow the news about our project from the first issue of SAM magazine to be published and you can read our interview about our SU-33 project on the website of Doogsmodels. We would like to thank Mr. Gary HATCHER from Scale Aircraft Modelling (SAM) magazine who is the editor of our media sponsor and our friend Matt McDougall for his tremendous support. Specifications : - ONE PIECE INTAKES (The biggest and one piece Intake in the industry will be in our SU-33 kit) - 61 Parts Huge P.E. Fret - Foldable wing option - Movable Canard, Slat, Flap, Aileron, Rudder, Horizontal Stabilizer parts - Open-Closed Refueling Probe - Open-Closed Canopy, Airbrake, Tail Radar parts - Detailed Cockpit and Canopy parts - 8x R-27, 4x R-73 Missile and Pod parts - 9 Options Pylon parts - Precise Panel Lines and Rivet details - Slider-Mould Nozzle parts - Modeller-friendly Part breakdowns Regards, (Mr.) Baris TANSOY Owner and Founder of TANMODELâ„¢ Plastic Model Kits Ltd. TANMODELâ„¢ Plastic Model Kits Ltd.

Hello all, I'm new here and wanted to share a recent project, one that is nine tenths finshed - but may benefit from being shown from the beginning. I've loved Phantoms since I was a child - their taut, 'business-like' appearance and reputation for power and speed always appealed. Later, as a young(er) adult I was also fortunate enough to see, courtesy of Her Majesty, an RAF version engage ground targets with its vulcan gun. Not something to forget in a hurry. Anyhow, my build is a US Navy version, namely the VF-92 aircraft flown by Curt Dose and Jim McDevitt in their successful raid on Kep airfield in 1972. It is a fascinating story - engagingly told by the pilot himself here . I also like the white noses of that squadron and the 'I-don't-give-a-damn-whether-you-can-see-me-or-not' attitude of the overall schemes of that period. My version is a bit different from most models of this or similar subjects, however. I set out to build-in the following features: working flight controls, retractable undercart, wheel suspension, working lights, illuminated cockpit and gunsight, openable canopy, deployable flaps and arrester hook and spinning compressor blades. It is, as you can imagine, quite a lot to pack into a model, even of this size. And how well it works, well, you'll be able to judge for yourselves. Why? Well I had some success doing some of this with a 1:24 Trumpeter Hurricane a couple of years back and fancied the challenge of mimicking the very different operation of a jet's controls - more on that later. But generally, I like the idea of a model being able to show some of the life of the real thing, so the model can sort of explain itself in other words. Some other boat and vehicle projects I've done in the same vein can be seen here if anyone is interested. Where to begin? I started with the wheels, imagining - wrongly - that these would be straightforward, especially after the nightmare complexity of the Hurricane. But, in reality F4s have, like a lot of naval aircraft, quite complex wheel geometry - not apparent when you look at them - to say nothing of the linkages between the landing leg itself and the secondary doors. So I had to make each of the main struts in brass, and adjustable in all axes, so I could firm up on the motion when I had worked out what it should be. You can just about make out the screw that will tighten the landing gear when the correct angle was worked out. Next discovery was that the gear struts themselves are almost certainly not quite in the right place on the model. No matter how I tried to work it, the wheels and doors could not function properly, this close to the fuselage. And indeed if you compare the wheel doors to available drawings, the secondary door (the little outboard gear door on each main wheel) is larger in real life than on the model. I concluded the wheels must be about 2 or 3mm too far inboard. I also wanted the wheels to turn freely so fitted bearings. You can more or less see that the strut itself looks like real chrome... and that is because it is. I found this remarkable - as in easy to use - kit from the US that allows you to chrome up (well polished) brass tube and I made a lot of use of it on this project. The oleo struts are supported by small springs in the cylinder. The slot in the oleo is to keep the wheel pointing in one direction as it slides up and down past a locating pin. The nose gear works the same way. You can see I had to replace the plastic 'scissors' as the orignals would break quickly when the gear moves up and down. Here you can see one of the main gear struts in the retracted position. The scissors are from the Eduard set and are useful for this kind of project, as long as the pieces are soldered rather than glued. You can just about make out what turned out to be the solution to the geometry issue. The main hinge is angled downward in the forward direction and slightly outward from the fuselage in the horizontal axis. This general arrangement was found by experiment - and confirmed by photographs. It is also worth mentioning that either the model wing section is too shallow or the gear too deep but, as supplied, they cannot possibly retract and I had to narrow the tires and wheels by about 1.5mm. Also, there is a sort of connecting piece across the well that is severely in error and prevents retraction, whatever the shape or thickness of the gear. That had to go. But because no one will see in the wheel well I have not replaced it with a corrected part. Hope this is of interest. Next up, engines and fans...

Another work started last year and recently completed. Kit from Radu Brinzan, pilots are from Ultracast and Tamiya. Painted with Mr.Color 56. Florin

Hello Forum, "within the build is before the built" I read some in the world wide web - I think somewhere aftmost left. .Some minutes before I was able to lay my hand on this beauty - also I payed much too much for her* burt I will plan much more that i jumped in with the Camel F.1. So this'll be at the very beginning a research thread swinging to a building an asking for help thread later on. Here the technical drawing for those who are interested in such stuff: And there is certainly a question of the colour sheme - I love this "British Post Red" as I remember it from my London trip once up on a time called it. Is this the "right" red - or is it too dark? Now to my questions - and as a newby I've got a lot of this I can't figure out when these coloursheme was used - okay before 1940 (then I found pictures in the pacific darkblue and sky light grey pattern). a) Is it right when I'll call her "1445" after her number on the tail? Or is the hull's side number "5-F-1" crucial? The coloursheme of the Revell kit semms to be the same as her's and the squadron symbol might be the same. What is the right Squadron my beauty belongs to? Was theirtimes there a sqaudron-colour or was it a a carrier-colour? c) If I say - okay red is nice but I want to bring the VB-2 "Big bad Wolf" on here hull - what do I have to do at the markings and to her colouring? I just learnd by http://wp.scn.ru that this was a Bomber Squadron not a VF for Fighter one So there apearce onn the far horizon the question if there might be a biplane Helldiver Curtiss SBC 1/32 kit... ...or if not - is it possible to built the SB2C back to a biplane? Could I take the measurements from the 1/72 Heller or the Matchbox kit? Thanks for your intrest and patience with a questioning greenhorn in here! ____________________________ *but with kits it seems to be like with kids and women you falt in love to...

Well, after seven months of work, Tamy's 32nd scale Birdcage Corsair is finally done! There's been a lot of praise over this kit and I can only echo everyone's words! What a lovely kit overall! For the general painting, I used a mix of acrylic colours from Mig Ammo, AK Interactive, Vallejo and Hataka as well as Aclad for the engine. The camo was done with colours from Hataka's Late US Navy paint set and weathering was achieved with oils from the Mig Ammo oilbrusher set and pigments. The model will be placed in a small vignette but that will be done a bit later in the future! Again, I thoroughly enjoyed this model from start to finish not just because of it's excellent engineering but also because it was a project I feel tested and pushed my skills to a higher level! A big thank you to all of you for your continuous encouragement but most important for sharing your feedback and suggestions with me at every stage of the build! I dedicate this model to my lovely fiancee who bought this kit for me as a birthday present and who has been so supportive of my hobby!

Hello guys! Having finished the F-104 I've now moved on to Tamiya's 1/32 kit of the F4U-1 Corsair Birdcage. This is my first WW2 bird after a veeeery long time. The kit is also very special for me as it is my fiancee's first ever model kit present to me (more came later)! I'll be building it almost straight out of the box with just the addition of Eduard's fabric seatbelts, Barracuda's resin wheels and Eagle Cal decals. I started with the cockpit and was impressed at the number of subassemblies that were required to complete it and how everything went together perfectly! The fabric seatbelts were a pain to put together but I'm pleased with the end result and may use again in future builds! The cockpit was airbrushed with interior green and all raised details were highlighted with the same colour lightened with white. Smaller details were brushpainted their own specific colours. For the tail wheel area I made my own mixture from brown, red, white and yellow. Chipping was done with a small piece of sponge dipped in aluminium. The green I used may be a bit controversial although I've seen examples of built models and all had the same colour. Anyway, I'm content with this one! More to come later!

This kit is a tough build (typical limited run) but if you want a LSP Yak, well, this is your only choice. Places to watch out for are the wheel bays, canopy, forward upper engine cowl, and the wing/fuselage attachment (none of them fit!). I was originally going to do a ton of weathering on this, but after all the fit problems, massive putty, and sanding, I pretty much lost interest and just wanted to finish the darn thing. Painted with MRP (aka Mr Paint), which is exceptional paint, AMT-7, 11, & 12. Done OOB with kit decals.

I waited for the Roden 1/32 O-1 Bird Dog with much anticipation. When it finally arrived, I wasn't disappointed: a simple, no-nonsense, accurate, well-moulded kit albeit a little scarce in interior details. This latter point didn't bother me a bit because I like to detail cockpits and interiors. IMO the one thing the kit lacks is an M-16/ AR-15 assault rifle which is closely associated with the Bird Dog and the FAC missions it was renowned for in the Vietnam conflict. The O-1 is a little bare without it. The problem is that M-16's can be easily found in armor modelling in 1/35 but none in 1/32. So what to do? Build one from scratch. This is how I did it. The reference is a profile view taken from the internet et reduced to 1/32 scale. The material: plasticard and brass wire. The pictures say it all. In situ Hope you like it. Cheers, Quang

Hi there! With the Texan coming to an end I had no idea what to build next So I opened just the big blue box that has been looking over my shoulder during modelling for some years. Look, there is an Uhu inside The well known Revell kit with some goodies It has to be a quick build, so I kept the AM parts to the bare minimum. Precut masks. The mandatory correction parts for the radiator outlet. Also resin seats to overcome the issues of the kit seats. Added PE for the wheel wells because the wheel wells are large, wide open and very empty. The bird will sit on a high shelf when finished... SAC UC? We shall see. Revell has the build broken into some independent subassemblies. While still painting the cockpit interior you may build up the wings, engine nacelles and wheel wells. Two each. Also rudders and elevators. Just beware that some parts have to be glued around some kind of hinges so check this before This will become the A-2 from the kit, 1./NJG-1, with the black undersides. Regards - dutik

Hi everyone. After chatting to Jennings and seeing he had interest in Wessex decals, I've had a thought about doing a set of Wessex 5 and 2 stencil decals. Seeing as the three main colours would be White (for pre 82 High Viz Wessex 5's) Black (for post 82 Low Viz and RAF Yellow Mk 2's) and Yellow for the HF antenna, B for the Beacon location and possibly for the yellow circle Exhaust warnings. See Jennings set here... http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=59683&hl=%2Bfly+%2Bwessex Would anyone be interested in this sort of thing? I'd even consider doing a joint 1/32 and 1/48 set if space permitted on the sheet? Your reaction is greatly received. Do you thin a need is there, what else would you want on this sort of set? Cheers The Woo.

Well, here goes... Not every prototype aeroplane was a success, and here are a couple that weren't The one on the left will be the unique F.1/4 (or 4F.1, or whatever) taper wing prototype built by Sopwith in 1917 and tested at Martlesham Heath. I bought an Academy kit ages ago pretty cheap, and read reviews of the kit afterwards. The wings were, um, unusual. The usual description is 'like a starving cow' which is pretty fair. I could see I was going to have to do a lot of work on them to get something reasonable so I shelved the kit. Only, in the back of the Camel datafile is a lovely drawing by Ian Stair. hmm, what an interesting 'plane. And if I was going to have to work on the wings anyway.... On the right is B3811, delivered in July 1917 with a Gnome Monosoupape engine. This is the Academy Clerget Camel kit, which I also bought cheap. I'm afraid I'm a bit of a bodger, so fitting one of the less usual engines appealed to me. The engine is the Roden one, the Academy Clerget has gone into the taper wing plane In the middle is the Part photoetch kit (S32030) - it's very useful for dressing up one of these kits - I've just ordered another one for 3811 Looks like this is just the wrong time for this thread, I guess LSP is about to get overrun with WNW camel builds Richard

So, this is my 3rd attempt at scratchbuilding a 1/32, aviation related vehicle. It has been in making for quite some time, but now it seems to come together rather well... I initially bought the new Airfix 1/48 Bedford MWD kit, to use as a guide for this build. 1.5 x 1/48 = 1/32 The chassis is scratchbuild using different parts from the spares box (engine, gearbox, rear axle) Fenders are made from milliput using a Humbrol paint jar as template... The grill on the bonnet sides, was quite a challenge, but after 3-4 trials I finally was satisfied with the result. Wheels are from E. Z. Models - Wheels for British trucks...

I would very much like to replace the 20mm barrels on my 1/32 Typhoon MK1B I'm building, but cannot find any aftermarket units that would be correct. I see tons for all the wing type of Spitfires and even Hurricanes, but no Tiffy bits. My kit bits are more oval then round and I dont feel like I can save them, no do I want to scratch my own. Any ideas, solutions, etc?

Hi guys, I was planning to finish this one during upcoming weekend and post it to RFI, but will not be at my workbench sooner then on Friday. So just decided to post some WIP pictures here. This is my first WNW kit. And its really amazing. I'm working on it 4 weeks already. I went through several WNW builds to get some know how. This one is build OOB, paints are mostly based on WNW instructions for this kit. will take my time to make better pictures after it is done. thanks for looking jan Wings, elevator and rudder painted with tamiya acrylics. Already started with some scratch effects on roundel decals my first attempt in wooden finish, painted with oil (raw umbra) and fine brush.Aluminium painted with Alclad, wood and red primer effect looks darker on photo. Used brown wash for interior.

Here is my work so far on this kit, that I've been wanting for 2 years! Bought it with Christmas money. I've been taking step by step pictures, and this is my first LSP build. pic soon - resizing them...

New PE set available from A.M.U.R. This set made of 0.05mm stainless steel to improve F/A-18 exterior. More details http://amurreaver.ru/?p=941

Hello folks, I start a new project. This is the bad (very bad) Trumpeter Lightning F.6. I know, this kit has a lot of mistakes from Trumpeter. But I really like this Big, Monster Britain Jet !!! I will add a Aires cockpit and exhaust. The decal sheet is from Xtradecal. Ok, maestro :