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I like the parts breakdown already better than Hasegawa

Windex (with Ammonia) or a cheap knock- off works great for clean -up. I also use Simple Green a household cleaner. Back to the Future: I apply it with a wide soft brush as a gloss coat before decaling. I than also use it as a decal setting solution (works perfect for relatively flat surfaces or surfaces with only a single bend like a fuselage side). I'll even top coat that once or twice sometimes, which will make the decal carrier film almost completely dissapear after a final topcoat of flat.

I've been using Tamiya Thinner X-20, which sprays like a dream. Word on the street is that this is just ISO-alchohol and retarder. So I bought some 91% ISO-alchohol and Liquitex Flow-Aid (find some at Art/HObby Stores like Michaels or Hobby Lobby) and plan on mixing my own brew very soon. I've also had great success using Mr. Colors Leveling Thinner (A lacquer). Sprays even better thana dream if you don't mind Lacquers. They tend to bother me so I only use this for Whites and Yellow's which need the help.

AIM toothpaste as a liquid masking medium? Genious!

I'm doing the same canopy right now by chance. There are several methods to apply- one is buy the Eduard Canopy masks, but if you don't do that try the following, which is simple grade school geometry: Method 1: Cut a bunch of small right triangles out of your favorite Tamiya Masking tape. 4 triangles placed in each corner of the window will cover up each canopy square. This way you are never cutting on the canopy. Method 2: Mask all the vertical frames and airbrush. Mask all the horizontal frames and airbrush. Again this way you are never cutting on the canopy. Both the above work great for square surfaces. Convex curves become more difficult like at the front windscreen but you can apply the above methods over several sessions to get the intended outcome.

These are simple to mix from Tamiya- I don't have the formulas on me right now but maybe someone else will post them, if not I'll try later tonight. I just did this on 2 builds and I was very happy with the resutls. Love airbrushing Tamiya.

You should bottle that tap water into leftoever tins, mark it up 3000% and sell it as the perfect AB thinner

Please tell us what paint (brand) and thinner you used, ratios, pressure, etc. Love that paint job.

I have the Eduard kit, which I really like and look forward to building this winter. I'm sure that in time I will also get the Trumpeter kit. Hopefully they can build upon the Euduard release's more obvious quirks and not create any more legendary ones for which Trumpeter is known for. Whatever the final outcome- this competition to have the best 109E is a GOOD THING. We as a community would be additionally well-served if Tamiya, Hasegawa, or Revell Germany does thier own modern toolings!

A shame those tools are sitting around, probably in legal limbo. Hmmm....anyone up for a covert operation to "save" these tools?

I'll give another vote for mixing your own with Tamiya Acrylics. I started doing this in the past year and have been VERY pleased with the results. I use an eye dropper to get the right mixing ratios and since they are acrylics- it's easy to wash out the eye dropper. There are some good mixing ratios for common FS and even RLM colors to be found online. there is also this nice cross reference: The Ultimate Paint conversion chart: http://www.paint4models.com/

Got mine in the E-mial- thanks!

Nice start Big Matt. Some questions: - What did you use for seatbelts? - Do you plan on using your decals? I really like the scheme on the box art you show.

I'm certainly you are correct. Doing the 3D printing is a (relatively) small investment and a great way to market potential future mouldings at shows to get feedback. Someday 3D printing might overtake current modeling technologies, especially for low-run kits. Would be great for the afteremarket also. Wish I could afford my own 3D printer!

That was an excellent explaination-thank you!

I stand corrected, I have the F4U-1D boxing and a good article out of Scale Modeler International (or some other publication) how to back-date it.

I have the same kit- plan on backdating it to a F4U-1A or D. I'll be happy to see how you go about building this thing. Any idea what color your going to paint the wheel wells? I'm confused on what color to use: "Salmon", Interior Green, Chromate Yellow- there seems to be a lot of different opinoins.

That was looks just about perfect to my Mk. I eyeballs. I was jsut doing some washes myself today tyring to get that very effect. I'm using ProModeler Wash and I did a bad thing by not having a glossy enough surface before I applied and tried to whipe off the wash. - what are you using for you wash?

An alternative voice- stick wtih OOTB. This is a great kit and anything you think really needs added you can do on your own.

Thanks all. I'll be using the stencils from the Revel boxing decal sheet. Not sure what size "B" it is, I can measure it.

I'm finishing off this Spitfire Mk. I and was wondering if it would get full stenciling and those black line wing-walks? Sorry- had the sqadron wrong in the topic, correct on below. I just finished painting the markings with Montex Masks. Hope to have it done in about a week if I don't have to add stenciling.

Can anyone reccomend a Tamiya color or mix for this early war-period red and the blue that surrounds the red. Oh, while where at it, how about the roudel Yellow too? EDIT: The Ultimte Paint Conversion Chart reccomends Tamiya XF-7 for FS31350 http://www.paint4models.com/paintchart/pai...sionchart.html#. Can anyone confirm this is a good match?

That is good news and good sales figures. LIke to hear a success story. Does give us hope Revell will do more kits like this.

Cheers for using parts and materials from the real thing- that really does make this build special. The best I can do is use some aluminum from a German beer can

Spitfire Seat Question: Does every version of the Spitfire seat include a black rear cushion? Was this an option? Would the Bakalite (spelling?) seat (reddish brown color) have this also?