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Fencer-1

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Everything posted by Fencer-1

  1. Whoa! What a discussion! I think I have something to add. Let's look at the history of our hobby, where we can find some periods. First of all was "Total Scratchbuilt and Handmade Era", then "Wooden Kits Era", then "Plastic Kits Era" and now we reached "Hi-Tech Multimedia & Aftermarket Kits Era". When the word "Kit" appeared we've already had an Indusrtry of scale models. The Market immediately started to fulfill consumers demands to "make modeller's life easier" offering more and more detailed kits, paints, additional sets, tools etc. simultaneously forcing you to spend more money on your lovely hobbies. The main principle of our Scale Modelling hobby dramatically changed from "Learn, Research and Build" to "Buy, Glue and Enjoy". Nowadays Scale Modelling is industry producing millions of kits and sets not to be built, but just to sell them to make money on your pleasure. The drawback is the historical and technical research work "section" is almost disappeared from our hobby. Aftermarket makes our life easier but weaned thinking. Buying modern kits and bunches of aftermarket you bear in mind that somebody made this "dirty" work for you. You are just relying on stranger's opinion regarding credibility of these sets. As for me, the research section is the most interesting part of Scale Modelling hobby, so I don't want to buy all awailable kits and aftermarket before I check the real subject of modelling. About 90% of aftermarket is actually useless in terms of accuracy. Today there is huge variety of modeller's approaches to get finished model, from the "LEGO style" - to buy everything and just assemble, to most interesting complete scratchbuild, using 3D modelling and other state-of-art tools. I really enjoy looking at Peter Castle (Airscale) 1/18 works here for example. The value of a model is determined for me by the ratio of money and labor(including research work) spent on its construction. In case of same result the more labor makes model more valuable for assessing. It is quite simple formula allows me to choose appropriate way of modelling for any case. Everything depends on purpose of your work. If I need precise scale model I prefer deep research and lot of self-made details using different technologies. In other cases, when I need quick build and just visual impact, e.g. diorama with different subjects, I will use as many ready components as I can.
  2. I will try to get it ready until beginning of September. Alex.
  3. As for me, overall shape accuracy is critical factor and I rather prefer scratchbuild than "small caps for large gaps")) aftermarket solutions. By the way, many modellers will be happy to sort out easily many problems with additional aftermarket sets. I also could offer my engines, recently made for my Corsair project, adapted for this "thing". They only need to change ignition system for the late type GE magneto/distributors, but I don't want to spend money for this HB inferrior representation of my lovely airplane to get just aligning reference.
  4. The airfoil shape looks just ugly and thick. As for plan view noticeable issue is wing/nacelle transition area. Click for full size picture.
  5. The best way in this "A-26" hopeless case, I think, is to re-make a whole thing from the beginnning.
  6. Guys, here is 1/32 drawing I made from original blueprints. I think it is good to check the model fuselage accuracy. Just download and print. To be informed, actual turret diameter is 40 inches. Nose section profile is true either for 6-gun nose or 8-gun nose, only panels layout differs.
  7. Bearing in mind what was the base for this work, result is just brilliant!
  8. Shown abowe is 3D print covered with Tamiya white base. Interesting, that true 1/32 scale engine is just ideal in size for Revell cowling. There isn't necessity to make it smaller to fit, just some sanding from inside of cowling part.
  9. Thanks! I'm going to duplicate it in resin, so it will be available for you. Regards, Alex
  10. The intakes painted inside with light grey color same as wheel wells. None of this standard changed from the beginning to present time. Older planes often had yellowish tint in this gray. FOD guards are unpainted titanium and front parts of lower leaps are dull stainless steel.
  11. Yes, yes, I know that there is Tamiya's one the best. But this old model had been put onto the bench when I and my friends decided to organize local group build with the slogan: "Building kits older then their owners")) So, I blew a dust from the box and started. I decided not to dive into extensive and expensive way of total correction and make it for fun BUT... I've already had Verlinden cockpit and two old Eduard sets need to be deployed. Just one thing bothered me yet - an ENGINE. If overall exterior is simple but pretty decent, the engine is just ugly. I had pair of Quickboost R-2800 but they didn't fit big Revell cowling, just hanging out inside and moreover didn't resemble particular engine model in details. Finally I decided to make my own "quickboost" using 3D and futher aim to adapt it to different models uncluding other scales, for example 1/48 Corsair and bunch of old Monogram bombers and, of coouurrse 1/24 P-47D)) As for this Corsair plan, it will be one of VF-17 (likely "Chico" Freeman plane) in flight configuration (not to build undercarriage). So, the progress in the pictures below. Engine itself consist of three large parts (crankcase, first and second rows) and three small (magneto, airscrew governor and oil pump). Backplate is separate part just for Revell Corsair to adapt engine to the model.
  12. Definitely, G-6/AS is my favorite 109 model, regarding clean shapes without ugly extra "bulbs and blisters" as seen on G-6/10/K and looking much powerful in comparison with early F/G models. Good work!
  13. Beautiful slim shapes! I can say G-6/AS is almost graceful))
  14. There are no obvious problems here, but Hasegawa's bulges also aren't ideal. They are slightly smaller in "diameter", then should be.
  15. Looking through factory drawings I found that all "Bubbletop" models had smooth floors, and the last one P-47 fitted with corrugated floor was D-23 Razorback. Below is the factory smooth floor drawing mark where we can clearly see that it was installed beginning from D-25 model. It was one of the feature of rearranged Bubbletop cockpit.
  16. No, it's common part for all manufacturers. "Government furnishing" as marked on Republic drawing for P-47.
  17. Loop Antenna link The fighter loop antenna has 9 inches diameter. "The loop itself is 9 inches diameter, and the unit is 14 inches high, with the base of 10 inches long, and 5.5 inches wide" "Generally, a 9-inch rotatable loop, such as the MN-20" from this Manual
  18. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AIMS3211 The overall black G-6/AS here. One more example of simple schemes for G-6/AS. All we need is "Udet" badge and custom black number.
  19. Dear Bill, you don't need to pay right now. I'll inform you first when the set available.
  20. Ready. To early order write to rust1968@gmail.com. PayPal payment.
  21. Hi, Craig I'm still working for detailing the nose section in 3D to minimize hand work in the future and intend to print test parts in the beginning of September. I'm also thinking how to add elegancy to HK plastic in other places. There are some other projects in the work I hope to show here soon. Regards, Alex
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