Pascal

This is the original footage from the seventies, when the Belgian Air Force had it's own stunt team flying Fouga's : The Red Devils Part 1 : Part 2 : Sincerely Pascal

Thank you very much ! I order Tamiya sprues from : office@timetunnelmodels.com Their service is excellent Sincerely Pascal

Thx for the tip. Is there a way to order the clear sprue from Academy ? I can order the Tamiya clear sprue from the UK, so I'm thinking of going that way. Now all I need are the decals from the Revell tigermeet kit. Maybe a fellow modeler has them for sale ?

Is there an aftermarket replacement canopy for the Revell F-16 ? Or can the Tamiya F-16 canopy be fitted on the Revell F-16 ? Sincerely Pascal

Oops, my mistake

Looks like a nice kit : For reference purpose only, photo by Mike Taken from this WIP : https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235054793-focke-wulf-triebflügel-amusing-hobby-148/

The Revell kit is from 1973, the Revell Blue Thunder livery is from 1993. Cudos to Revell for producing 2 Belgian Air Force special markings : Mephisto in 1991. Blue Thunder (Milky Way) in 1993. Sincerely Pascal

Well what can I say ? That's LSP for you. It means Large Scale Planes, but to me it also means Large Scale Pals. I'm very happy that I was able to find the info for you. Helping fellow modellers and pals, that's what this site is all about. So, my Large Scale Pal : here you go : Source : Serge Van Heertum Source : Coll SBAP Source : Belgian-wings.be Source : maquetland.com Source : Jean-Marie Hanon Source : originalundmodell.de, review of the Wingman Models kit. Sincerely Pascal

Found it. According to DACO the dark blue is FS15090, the lighter blue is FS15180.

Can't help you with the colors, but in Belgium this livery was known as Milky Way.

Expensive ? A 1/32 jet of near Tamiya quality, with 570 parts and excellent decals. Price should be 90 - 125 euros. That's a pretty decent price if you consider the quality of Daco products.

Very nice work Max. Where can one buy that figure ? Sincerely Pascal

Funny, I spent a couple of hours reading your wip this afternoon. This is what I found on Dixie Boy : 2012: Feb, repaint, 361st FG, 375th FS colours and new name of "Miss Kandy" : For reference purpose only Most recent photos that I found are from 2015, apparently it was owned by Darren Morre, Torrence California, Reg. No. N5444V There's also this (but I have no idea what it means) : 1 February 2017 To Darren C. Morre Trustee, RCH Palos VRD, CA.

Thx ! Sincerely Pascal

Hi Danny, where do you order those sheets ? Sincerely Pascal

I hope to have more free time in 2019, really would like to finish this build this year. One of the things that make this car unique are the vertical "fins" that are located just behind the front wheels : The fins come with this little PE-set from Legende Miniatures : There's no way I can glue these little pieces of flat PE to the body. So I soldered a couple of metal strips to the top and bottom : To hold the metal pieces in place, I clamped them on a piece of aluminium plate that was bend in a 90° angle. This way it was just a matter of putting some flux and solder on the joint, use the "creme brulee" torch and voila : a solid bond : Dryfit on the body : At the rear the shocks are attached to a "kidney" shaped piece of black plastic. The rod ends and tubes that I made earlier were to big, I couldn't fit them on the rear suspension without hitting the driveshaft. This time I used a tube of smaller diameter (about half of the first version) and soldered a tiny brass ring to a piece of copper wire to make the rod ends. I'll have to make a couple more cause the copper wire is not in the middle of the brass ring : The kidney shaped part received another hole, this will hold a hexgonal bolt : Turned the lid (3mm diameter) from an aluminium rod with my lathe : A dryfit shows the hexagonal bolt in the lid. The head of the bolt is 1mm wide, but's it's to big. I will replace it with a 0,8mm bolt : In the end, it should look like this : Sincerely Pascal

I use my dremel 300 series on plastics, metals and wood. My trick to prevent the plastic from melting, is using moderate to high speed but letting the business end of the tool only touch the plastic for a couple of seconds. I mostly use diamond coated toolbits. The ball shaped ones are great for thinning plastic. Just make sure you move it around a lot, so it can "scrape" the plastic instead of "biting" into it. Sincerely Pascal

Hi Roy, I've been using a couple of Dremel tools (with the flexible shaft) for over 10 years. They work great for sanding and drilling plastic and resin. In my opinion it's not the high rpm that causes the melting, it's the amount of pressure that you apply. For drilling I apply just a little pressure and let the drillbit do it's job. For sanding I never let the sanding tool stay in contact with plastic / resin for more then a few seconds. HTH Sincerely Pascal

1/24 ? Hmmm, ..... Jaguar D-type ? Triumph Spitfire ? Ok, I'll let myself out.

Nice project ! If you do a search with "NASA F-15B", you will find my WIP. It shows one way to modify the tub for AM seats ( I used Ares seats).

Thx mate ! Update : The 333SP has a diagonal bar that sits in front of the big airscoop : Hotwheels made this bar run thru the airscoop in stead of in front of it. First task was to plug the hole : Then remove enough plastic to make room for the bar : I drilled a hole on the left side, made the strange contraption that holds the bar on the right side : Looks rough, needs some filler and sanding : Dryfit with the new bar : This (the clear part) is all that remains of the original Hotwheels side-window, I used my mill to make a ledge that will hold the new side-window : Sincerely Pascal

Update. No matter how much detail you add to a model, the thing that will always draw everyone's attention is the body. Spend a lot of hour getting the fit between the engine lid and the body as tight as possible. The tiny gaps that are still there will be filled by the primer, paint and clear coats : I didn't like the way Hotwheels fixed the big plastic airscoop to the body. It was sealed to the body using heat, but it was fixed about 1,5 mm to far aft. I did quite a few modifications to the plastic airscoop (it's black plastic) and glued it in place. Then followed a couple of rounds of putty and sanding. It needs a bit more sanding to smooth out the gaps : Removal of more unwanted zamac. Before : And after : Small update, but the result of endless dryfitting and modifying. Sincerely Pascal

Hakata has these colors : HTK-A154 – White Grey – FS36628, used in so-called „Blizzard” and „Digital Splinter” schemes of USAF aggressors’ F-16s and F-15s HTK-A155 - Air Superiority Blue – FS35450, used in so-called „Blue Flanker” scheme of F-16s of 18th and 64th and F-15s of 65th USAF Aggressor Sqdns HTK-A054 – Grey – FS36270, used in so-called „Blue Flanker” and „Blizzard” schemes of USAF aggressors’ F-16s (18th and 64th AGRS) HTK-A156 – Aggressor Blue – FS35109, used in „Blue Flanker”, „Blizzard” and „Digital Splinter” schemes of USAF aggressors’ F-15s and F-16s HTK-A157 – Aggressor Grey – FS36251, used in „Digital Splinter” (F-15), „Blue Flanker” (F-15 leading edges, F-16 radome) and „Blizzard” (F-16) schemes HTK-A158 – Mod Eagle Grey – FS36176, colour of radome in so-called „Blue Flanker” and „Digital Splinter” schemes of USAF aggressors’ F-15s

Indeed they are ! I just bought an original Monogram 1/48 F-14A Tomcat. Got the same kit from my mom in 1984 while we were visiting our uncle at Rammstein Airbase in Germany. Brings back some great memories.