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fastzx

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Everything posted by fastzx

  1. Kieth, Yes the Hasegawa nose seemed too wide and yes a little deeper, but after looking at some plans and profile drawings I felt if I cut it at the firewall (the natural removable top cowling piece on the Revell) I just might be able to make it work. I think the Monogram F-51d is even wider than the Hasegawa P-51d nose but I am going to give that a shot too. I cut a section from the bottom back half of the Hasegawa nose, then superglued it back INSIDE the nose, reinforced it with epoxy putty, thinned the side and top walls of the nose section so they would flex a bit. After doing that it seemed much closer than it looked before. I built up a reinforced male mounting tab on the Revell firewall with sheet plastic and more epoxy putty. I then waited for all that to cure and slid the Hase nose onto the mounting/alignment tab used MORE epoxy putty and super glue gel and liquid. I then clamped the whole assembly together sqeezing the sidewalls in with a carpenters bar clamp. I then added even more epoxy putty to the bottom hasegawa/Revell joint to blend the two together. I then finished with Squadron white putty to smooth and contour the bottom Hasegawa nose. I should have taken pictures, but it moved along pretty fast with 5 minute A+B epoxy and superglue. I will take pictures of the Monogram to Revell mating sequence as I think it will be a little more of an effort. But I will give it a try anyway since all four donor kits were junk to begin with. And I never liked the Revell P-51B nose in the first place. This new nose appears much beefier. I will post a picture or two of the next P-51B mating since I am waiting for some Moskit exhaust and need to finish the cockpit on the plane before I seal up the nose and fuselage. cheers, Jon
  2. Hi Larry, Good to hear from you... I should have known you would be the one with the answer for my request. Thanks, that would be great to see what is going on back there since I am chucking the Revell glass and going with some Ruttman vac canopies for these two B models. Any help is greatly appreciated. Please send me the info you have on the radio/battery area on the P-51B Jon
  3. Hi everyone, I am needing to find good detail shots of the radio installation behind the armor plate in a P-51B. I am in the process of converting not one but two Revell P-51B by grafting the noses of a Hasegawa P-51D and the other one is a nose from a Monogram F-51D. I have a bunch of reference books on the Mustang but no real detailed shots of the radios! Can anybody point me to a good reference photo or drawing of that area? Sure would be helpful One will be the "DING HAO!" and the other is "Shangri-La" Also need decal of the correct color "boxing chicken" or Eagle Squadron on Gentile's plane. the decal in this revell kit has a purple circle behind the Eagle Squadron emblem instead of yellow. Thanks, Jon Payne "fastzx"
  4. Hi Thierry, Nice job on the tweaks1 My only two cents worth of comment is about the reason Trumpeter didn't do Flying Tigers markings on their release of this kit. I think it has to do with Trupeter being a Chinese company and it seems that the AVG multi-star roundels are the same as the breakaway island nation Tiawanese national symbol. Just a thought. Jon
  5. fastzx

    P-39

    I've been waiting soooo looooong for a P-39 or P-400 that I had to break down and build an old vac kit. I know the exhausts are not right for a P-400 - I just wanted some satisfaction! Jon
  6. My gear was done with a combo of aluminum tube, swallow models extra gear, narrowed revell p-51 wheels, strip aluminum, styrene and mylar. The prop came from a matchbox dauntless, spinner started from a 1/48 p-39 spinner, styrene disk and a bunch of epoxy putty. nose wheel was a 1/48 p-39 main gear wheel horizontal stabs were also from a 1/48 main wing tips no other parts came with this except the white vac styrene and the crappy clear vac canopy. I think I bought my P-39Q combat models vac kit about 25 years ago but didn't build it until last year My VERY FIRST attempt was a P-61 Black Widow - boy was I tired of that kit about halfway through, so I stopped and recently traded it for some KI-61 tony partsso I could do a KI-100.
  7. Dan, Had to use Revell P-40 exhausts. I know they are not correct for a P-400. and I buttoned it up after doing all the scratchbuilt cockpit. I did roll the windows down...LOL I hand painted the sharks/dogs mouth. Still have drop tank sway braces to do and it really isn't "dirty" enough for the southwest pacific You wouldn't know where to get a hold of some (correct for a P-400) multiple ejector stacks? Jon
  8. I will try and post another... this is my first and most likely last vac/scratch attempt. I think I get it the hang of posting these pics NOW! Hey this is easy!!
  9. Wumm, I think you are right I went back and read some more about max file size 7600k or so and pixel dimensions 545 pixels width or so, I reduced the file and saved it accordingly and TA-DA!!! it worked! Thanks about the nice words, but the Mk 22/24 was done ages ago and boy was the build a horrible time. I hated every second of it. This hobby is supposed to be fun. I always thought Revell kits were a pain in the fit and build arena, but Matchbox wins hands down. It goes just as bad for the Matchbox Bf-109E and Dauntless......I got rid of the Tiger Moth kits I had after building the Matchbox Lysander. If they could make 10 parts out of a component that should just be 2 or 3 THEY DID. I geuss what made it worse was trying to do it with Testor's orange and white tube styrene glue, before I started using super-glue to build my kits (and 5-minute A+B epoxy for the clear parts). If I had never ever built a Hasegawa kit I would not have known how much of a pain the Matchbox kits were. Don't even get me started about vacs LOL When the kit you want to build is the only game in town, you just have to bite the bullet and build it. I can remember wanting to build that Spitfire for a long time before I found one. (ages before Ebay) LOL Jon Payne "fastzx"
  10. Horrible build - I hated every minute of it but this is what it looks like "out of the box" for my skill level at the time. The most cumbersome breakdown of parts they could devise I think. Jon
  11. Tried posting a pic to the discussion on spit mk22/24 does not look like it worked any suggestions? any help files? Thanks Well never mind it seems to have worked here!
  12. Thanks, 1/48 sounds about right I guess there are a whole lot more aftermarket decals for those two scales. Thanks, Jon fastzx
  13. Anybody have suggestions on correct size early US stars insignia for the early war P-38F? Is there a decal sheet with the right sized stars - the boom on the P-38 is pretty small Early war blue circle with stars no bars - anybody? Thanks, Jon
  14. Horrible build - I hated every minute of it but this is what it looks like "out of the box" for my limited skills. Will try for first time to attach a photo - here goes I guess it didn't post a photo
  15. Hey thanks guys, For the parts for P-38F conversion I am doing in 1/32 I found the info I was looking for in Osprey's aircraft of the aces #14 "P-38 aces of the Pacific and CBI" Great photos and color plate of the P-38F-5 Bong's first two kills were in a borrowed plane ! ! ! "white 15" or "thumper" a P-38F-5 serial 42-12644 from Lt. John "Shady" Lane 39th FS/35th FG, Port Morseby, December 1942 just goes to show you that you can never have too many models OR reference books. Jon
  16. Thanks Larry, I thought I had found the usaaf serial numbers but lost them again in my refs. the markings are most likely similar to other early lightnings sharkmouths from the 39th FS. I think Airfix had a kit with markings from that group and possibly Hasegawa did too but since I don't collect anything but 1/32nd scale I don't have those kits to look at the markings. And I guess nobody but Kenny thought Dick Bong would be such a great pilot. I will keep on looking because I want to do Bong's first and last Lightnings "white 15" and "Marge" Thanks again, Jon Payne
  17. Hi guys I'm looking for reference source for the first of of Dick Bong's p-38f-1? that he scored his first enemy kills with. I believe from the only photo I now have he was flying "white 15" and I am pretty sure it was an F model from the first batch in the 39th FS 35th FG based at Port Moresby or Dobodura New Guinea shark mouthed and national insigniawas just roundel star with NO bars (early 1943 or late 1942). Looking for serial markings, color plates, etc. I have Squadrons "Aces of the Southwest Pacific" and "p-38 Lightning in action" and also "P-38 Lightning at War" by Joe Christy and Jeff Ethell
  18. Larry is the 32nd scam site up? can't see anything once logged in Jon
  19. Yes the F-100 is such a great looking plane. as a matter of fact I think all North American planes were very sharp looking P-51, F-86, F-100, X-15 etc. The metal finish on the F-100 is very important to the way it looks. It is an undertaking in itself achieving the heat discolored look of rear of the plane. That will really give it an interesting look when done correctly. Hasegawa could do a KI-44 Tojo to go with their other fine Japanese aircraft. Trumpeter could without much trouble scale their 1/24 Rufe down to make a great kit of a plane that looks great in a variety of finishes. This list just keeps getting longer the more I think about it.
  20. I agree Ted I totally forget about the Japanese twins.....Thanks for reminding me. Jon
  21. I wish that with all these new 1/32nd scale Trumpeter releases they would think of doing some new WWII twin engine models. They really wouldn't be any larger than their A-10 or the Su-27 or F-105 kits. My 1/32 Trumpeter wish list would include in this order: USA: B-25 Mitchel (various marks) B-26 Marauder A/B-26 Invader (wwII and vietnam COIN) F7F Tigercat C-47 British: A-20 Havoc Westland Whirlwind German: Ju-88 (various) Ar-234 (various) Me-410 Do-217 He-111 Russian: You get the idea guys Anybody agree or have any other suggested twin engine models?
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