bdthoresen

That’s super cool, D. Here in St. Augustine, there was a gentleman who owned a Boomerang replica, which was a cut and spliced T-6G. The thing looked pretty close to an actual Boomey, and was a real hot-rod. He sold it on a few years back….. Really looking forward to what you do with this! Thor

Fortitude is amazing. Just heard the new Jinjer track “Vortex”. Tatianna is scary……lol THOR

Yeah, pretty much hard rock/metal most of the time. Bands like The Ghost Inside, Soilwork, In Flames, Gojira, Orden Ogan, Jinjer, Trivium, Light the Torch, Gizmachi, Wage War, Architects, Lamb of God, and Bring Me the Horizon. Sometimes I will stream 40’s big band to change it up. Been on a Count Basie and Artie Shaw kick lately…… THOR

CG- I would bond the horizontal stabs before paint, that way you have as strong a bond as possible with them. As far as painting order, I would give the model a white base coat, almost as a primer, and then mask the white portions of the invasion stripes. Then I would spray the red areas, then mask. Then I would spray the black areas of the invasion stripes, then mask. Then aluminum areas, mask. Underside camo, mask. Then topside camo. Demask everything. As far as your flat drop tank, you could go aluminum, or even neutral gray. They were usually only used once, maybe twice if they came home with it, so who could say if you are wrong? Not likely the used the same tank for long. FWIW- THOR

I can only echo what some of the others have said here, Chuck. I tend to use Mr. Surfacer 1000 cut 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, sprayed at about 18-20 psi. It lays down nicely, and wet sands beautiful with 600 grit paper. It can be polished further than that if necessary. I used to be dead set against primers, but after using this on a few multimedia projects, I am sold! I tend to use the grey, and the black myself…… Awesome work, by the way. Loving this build….. THOR

Foz- This is just plain ridiculous. It just keeps getting better and better! I love the “old school” way you build. Plain awesome. THOR

Ha! I just busted my a$$ on that exact surface yesterday on the ship I am working on. Quite dirty and grimy up there. The non-skid is a bit worn down though. I think you nailed the color perfectly! THOR

Love this thread. My daily driver is a 2018 SR5 Taco and I absolutely love it. Thought about a TRD 4 wheel drive, but have no real need for those capabilities where I live. I have a list a mile long of parts I want to add, but my job, as well as attending university at night/weekends does not put it high on my to-do list. Would love a vintage FJ project, have seen a few for sale round here through the years, but most of them have been beach runners and are rotted out well beyond what I have time to fix. One can dream, though! THOR

Welcome back, Murph. Whatever happened to that Hasegawa Hellcat you were working on? Looking forward to what you end up doing with your Intruder. THOR

I am in complete agreement with you, Eric. While I applaud ZM for taking on the 190 and 109, they as releases leave me lukewarm. The 109 is also a bit of a gamble, because that particular airframe almost has a cult-like following, and to get that wrong could be bad for their reputation. I have never seen an aircraft with more “experts” than that one. Hopefully it will be better than the Hasegawa and Trumpeter (not hard) offerings. So I hope it comes out great and sells well for them. But I will not be buying one. There are other airframes that have not been served in more modern times that could do with the ZM treatment. I would like to see some more twins, as well as some other IJA/IJN subjects. Time will tell what else Shigeta-San comes up with. I am not sure why everyone seems to want to get in a huff over an internet post. Let’s all just take a deep breath, and move on with our day, shall we? THOR

Peter- Cool Project. I also built the old Revell Huey many moons ago, I loved that kit. On a side note, I know you mentioned trying to find the old Dragon kit, but did you ever look at MRC/Academy’s UH-1D kit in 1/35th? Built one some time ago, saw they rereleased it as late as last year. Better shapes and details than the Revell, nose shape was definitely better. Would also help as your figures are 1/35th! Keep the updates coming, bud! THOR

Hi Dan- Lovely work so far. I was looking through one of my books the other night, which had some photos of the last squadron of -106’s in service with the Montana ANG. The thing I noticed right away was how clean and shiny their birds were. It would appear the -six was a huge source of pride for those who flew and maintained her. I also did not notice a huge amount of stenciling on the airframes. I would say, light weathering, at least a semigloss sheen, and minimal stenciling. Cant wait to see what you do next with it! THOR

Nice work Jay. I do agree with Kev, the bulge looks a bit much. I would reduce its width overall by about 50 percent each side, that way it’s less pronounced. I have always felt that tire bulge in scale doesn’t always translate right. It always seems that the tires are flat. But I would leave the flat spot as is. FWIW.... THOR

Top work as always, Kev. Thanks mate! THOR

Wow, that looks amazing. Keep it up! THOR

34.316 inches give or take. Monstrous! THOR

Ok, so now I regret that I deleted my Facebook account...... THOR

Howdy All- I remember last year that one of the members here (Miroslav?) built a Japanese subject, and was testing MRP’s Japanese colors on his George. Does anyone know if they are still planning on releasing the planned IJN/IJA colors? I searched through some of my normal retailers, and nothing came up. Anyone have any more information? THOR

Pig- Thank You. THOR

It would appear the FA-200-160 used the Lycoming O-320-D2A motor, 160 horsepower, so accessory case would be almost identical for the period. You should be good to go! THOR

Here ya go Pete, a fairly common Lycoming O-320/360 accessory case. As I mentioned earlier, there were subtle differences based on the dash model/spec of the engine, but these are the most common. From clockwise top left is the oil cooler return line plug-Usually an AN fitting is screwed into here, with the fire sleeved line heading towards the oil cooler. Next is the crankcase breather, usually 3/4” rubber line held on with a hose clamp heading down to the cowling/firewall bottom to vent overboard (If you fill the engine with too much oil, she WILL puke it out of this vent, all over the belly of your freshly washed airplane, from firewall to tail!). You can see the oil temp element attach point at 11 o’clock to the oil filter, which as I said penetrated the firewall to the instrument panel (use guitar string) After the oil filter, you have the attach point for the oil pressure line, which again, will go into the firewall to the instrument panel. At 5 o’clock to the oil filter is the supply line for the oil cooler, which also is fire-sleeved and will connect to the opposite fitting on the oil cooler. Usually, depending on the aircraft, the lines will be secured together from the rear of the engine to the front mounted oil coolers, either running just under the left set of cylinders (There is and orange line in the picture in this location.) If the oil cooler was mounted on the firewall, the lines were much shorter and head to it, usually individually. (Not tied to each other) Two other things to point out-If you see that silver cap just to the right of the blue breather line fitting, that is you tach generator/cable mount....This also can be simulated with guitar string painted an aluminum color. Lastly, that silver colored blanking plate with the four nuts holding it on, just to the right of the tach location, is the vacuum pump mount. You have a pump mounted in this location already. They usually have two lines off the top- the forward one being mounted off of a 90 degree fitting, black rubber line with a hose clamp, that heads to the instrument panel. The second line, is a small hook shaped metal line that points aft, that acts as a vent for the vacuum pump. Hope this helps. As I said, the different dash models had slightly different accessory cases at the rear, so it might help to figure out what engine your bird was running to be more specific. But this, as a general rule, is close to what most of these engines look like at the rear. THOR

Hey Pete. Yes, the oil cooler lines run from the back of the accessory case to the oil cooler, send and return. Let me see if I can find a picture of the back of a standard Lycoming 4-banger that will show the connection points. You could also add the crankcase breather from the top rear of the engine, which would be filtered down to exit at the lower firewall.....There were minor differences of course dependent upon dash numbers of engines, but most are really close to the same......be back later. Thor

CG- The brake lines in your last picture appear to be standard -4 sized lines and fittings, which the b-nuts on the lines themselves would be 9/16” diameter, and the elbow would be 1/2” or 7/16” depending on the vendor. Those are still in use today. HTH THOR

Hiya Pete! Nice Lycoming. It looks fairly complete out of the box. I like your ignition wiring. A few things I see you could add fairly easily....you could add the oil temp sense line from the gray unit just above the oil filter, as well as the tachometer drive cable to the other gray unit at about 10 o’clock over the oil filter. Both could be made from wound guitar strings, painted aluminum. You could also add a line from the vacuum pump to the firewall, (the black unit at 2 o’clock above the oil filter. You could also add two small wires from each magneto, one a ground, and one a P-Lead, which would come together at the center of the engine mount and head to the firewall to the ignition switch in the instrument panel. Lastly, I would add the throttle and mixture cables, one to each side of the carburetor at the bottom of the motor. You would also need to find the firewall for the connection points. The only other thing I could think of would be some orange scat tubing that would act as carb heat ducting......from the exhaust shroud to the air box attached to the carb. But I have no idea of it’s routing in the Aero Subaru..... Sorry, I have built a bunch of 1/1 Lycomings. Apologies...... THOR

Adam, you are preaching to the choir there! I don’t miss spraying the single stage urethanes, zinc chromates, and epoxy primers. I still use them in my current job, but super small quantities. I was looking at one of the Hawkeyes I have been working on, from VAW-120, and the thing looks like a leopard from all the paint touch up from corrosion control over its service life. It’s covered in literally hundreds of these marks. The funny thing is, it left us new 7 years ago, a single color, and now she is a dozen shades of gray. Someone has even painted over the exhaust stained paint on the lower vertical fins.....it looks really odd. We are unfortunately adding to it with all parts with the structural mods we are installing....like a patchwork quilt!!!!! THOR