Jamme

Hi
The most dreaded part of the build.Clear parts.
The front windshield has a huge gap all the way around...in short the window is too small for the space. I thought about adding a styrene strip around the cockpit frame but  wasnt sure it was the best way to handle that issue, I also thought about gluing the windshield in place and adding white glue to seal off the gaps but I was afraid that the tape masks  could pull off the white glue or even mess up the clear part.....so pass on that one too. The only way for me to fix the gap was to glue a frame outside the window to cover the gaps. the frame would have to be sanded down once all dry. If anyone has had this issue with this kit and was able to come up with a better solution please share.
Here is how it looks so far.
Oliver

For the conversion I used the undercarriage and wheels from the Hasegawa F-16. But I found out too late that the legs of the main undercarriage are spread too much when glued into the AIRES wheelbay. So the F-16 sits now too low and the nose therefor too high.
 

 
Painting was mainly done with ModelMaster Enamel paints and Tamiya Acrylic paints.
 

 
For the decals I used a mix of Academy, Hasegawa, Revell, Superscale and also homemade decals using a laserprinter.
 

 
 

 
Thanks for looking

This is the Academy F-16C Blk. 50/52 kit, converted to a Blk. 25 F-16 with parts from the old Hasegawa F-16.
 

 
I build this kit for a good friend of mine and he wanted the serial number to reflect his bitrthday, so it's some sort of a „what if“
 

 
I also used the Cockpit and Wheel Bays from AIRES and also the engine cover from Steel Beach. The intake cover is scratchbuild.
 

 

Hi all, been away for a while (and work doesn't appear like it will be changing that any time in the near future). I purchased this kit when it first came out, but didn't get very far due to fit issues with the STAP. Soon after, Starship Modeler store was selling a trooper rifle and it too was purchased and put away. Recently the kit was rescued from the stash so I could do something with it. I decided to make the pose a little more dynamic, as most build ups I have seen have the droid standing at attention or on the STAP. So here is my AMT/ERTL Federation Battle Droid sans STAP.
 

 

 

 
The modification to the kit are altered left foot, correction to the ankles to make them appear like the original filming maquette (in the second "Chronicles" book), minor correction to the shins, added three extra points of articulation to each arm, corrected the elbows and forearms, and repositioned fingers so he could grip the rifle. I filled LOTS of sink holes with Tamiya putty (endemic within the kit).
 
The backpack still needs to be corrected at the top, but with a little more finishing he will be right for paint, and will have the serial number 1138 (of course).
 
The rifle is from the SSM store as noted (and I think is now OOP), but I will probably scratch a new one as it is badly warped. This is the only product I have ever had any issues with from the store.
 
Comments and criticisms welcome
 
Brendan

It is good to see that they are doing the Ho229. I am probably way over the edge into the minority, but would build more of those than 109's.... well, maybe I could do a Spanish or Bulgarian 109.
 
Have fun with whatever you like is my idea. There is certainly enough variation in 1/32 scale to make any of us very happy this year.
 
Tnarg

Hi, 
Why not A Tamiya Zero?
Easy to build and a nice plane.
Cheers,
Jamme

Hasegawa Ju87-G in 1/32 scale. The only add-ons are an Aires resin cockpit, Eduard exterior set and belts. The pipework around the 37mm cannons is lead string, and as always, Gunze acrylics.


































I had forgotten how big this kit is, especially when sat next to a same scale Bf (or is that Me) 109.

Who's moderating this thread?
 
Thank you.
Sincerely,
Mark

Us anal modellers represent something like 0.10% of Revells sales - if that.
 
I think that, £ for £, Revell produce amazing kits that are absolutely unsurpassed in value terms.
 
The perfect - or even near perfect - kit that you want simply does not and will never exist.

I guess you missed the part about us being 5% of total sales?  
 
And even then, some of us will still buy it, so now you're probably talking about 1%-2% of the total market.  For example, as a 109 lover, even with a stack of Hasegawa kits, I'll be picking up a couple Revell kits, and definitely an ErlaG-10 if they release one as it will be the only ErlaG-10 kit.
 
Doug

I don't mind that Revell is redoing the Corsair too.
 
It's still a nice kit to build.As long as you don't use the wing fold to much.
 
And their should be a nice decal sheet with the new release.

Thx Jamme for those kind words.
 
 
made some paint experiments on a scrap piece, weathering, this one gonna be era Singapore -41-42.
 
Had some thoughts about this hmmm, need feedback and or ideas on this one, my biggest concern is about my rivets, want them to be seen.
 
Will this work, used a light wash to make the rivets pop out, tried dark wash and they was not tha wisible hmmm, due to the camo colors are quite dark and the rivets are so delicate,
 
the other way i could make the camo a few steps lighter (imitate sunbleach) so i can use black+dirt wash.....
 
the color layers on this scrap experimnetal piece is, First Walleojo grey Primer, then Tamiya gloss black, then Alclad Dural alu, then preshade along the lines, then in this case just brown (not to be used on the model), clear coat, then florys light wash.
 

 
Tried with dark wash and the rivets went only visible in certain angles....
 
off course ive sprayed wery thin coats of every layer.
 
feedback on this one is very appriciated
 
/Mal
 

Beautiful job, Frank!
Congrats,
Jamme

The initial stage of painting has begun with the base layering of paint. I need to go back in tomorrow and do some more correction, but it was late tonight and I had to call it quits for now. Here are some quick pics, not great one but for now it gives you a little peak at the progress.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Hope you like it.
 
Cheers Murph...

Just finished this absolutely beautiful resin kit from Fisher. The fit was good, details were exquisite, and the decals were first rate! IMHO, it was an even better kit than the Cutlass. In fact, I like it so much that I plan on buying another one later.
 
Everything was from the box, except the canopy actuating rod which came from a F-16, and the IP bezel decals from Mike Grant.
 
The paints used were mostly Gunze acrylics. Metallic paint on the exhaust was Alclad, oleo struts were painted with Gunze Super Metallic. This time, I used Alcad Klear Koat gloss for the gloss surface for decals. It's a lacquer based product, but went on both Gunze and Tamiya acrylics just fine. The final top coat was Alclad Klear Koat "light sheen". Weather was kept to a minimum.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
Thanks for looking.
 
Terry