Jump to content

Zactoman

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    135
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    2

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  2. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  3. Haha
    Zactoman got a reaction from Pete Fleischmann in Live Resin figures for HH-60 Pavehawk   
    Outstanding stuff Pete! 
     

    Thanks for sharing the steps.
     

  4. Like
    Zactoman reacted to Out2gtcha in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Look for a review of these soon!
    They are every bit as lovely in person as you see here.
  5. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Harold in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  6. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Lud13 in Su-33 paint schemes   
    I uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi):

    Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Kinetic Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!)
     
    I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability.
    It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation.
     
    There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc.
    Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this.
     
    Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments.
     
    The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above.
    The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons.
     
    Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds.
    If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
     

  7. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Luca in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Thanks guys
     
    Some inspiration...




     

  8. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from thierry laurent in Su-33 paint schemes   
    I uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi):

    Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Kinetic Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!)
     
    I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability.
    It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation.
     
    There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc.
    Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this.
     
    Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments.
     
    The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above.
    The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons.
     
    Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds.
    If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
     

  9. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from johncrow in Su-33 paint schemes   
    I uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi):

    Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Kinetic Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!)
     
    I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability.
    It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation.
     
    There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc.
    Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this.
     
    Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments.
     
    The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above.
    The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons.
     
    Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds.
    If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
     

  10. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Su-33 paint schemes   
    I uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi):

    Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Kinetic Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!)
     
    I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability.
    It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation.
     
    There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc.
    Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this.
     
    Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments.
     
    The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above.
    The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons.
     
    Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds.
    If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
     

  11. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from LSP_K2 in Su-33 paint schemes   
    I uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi):

    Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Kinetic Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!)
     
    I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability.
    It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation.
     
    There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc.
    Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this.
     
    Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments.
     
    The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above.
    The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons.
     
    Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds.
    If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
     

  12. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Luca in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  13. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from johncrow in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  14. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from blackbetty in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  15. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Kilroy Was Here in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  16. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Daniel Leduc in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  17. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from LSP_Ray in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  18. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Kagemusha in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  19. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Kagemusha in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  20. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from LSP_Kevin in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  21. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from LSP_Kevin in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  22. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Out2gtcha in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on thier fins or the tips will evetually bend and warp (especially true on the pontiy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model.

    Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go.
     
    Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet.

     
    Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encouter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them.

     
    Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html
     
    For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics on ARC with comparison pics to other offerings:
    http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
    I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
     

  23. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Out2gtcha in 1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM   
    Now available!
    https://zactomodels.com/
     
    First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references!
     

    Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C.
     
    Both versions include separate nosecones and exhaust section to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile).

    The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections.


     
    The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references.
    Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose:
    https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/
    I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
     
  24. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from KUROK in When will we get an F-22 or F-23 in 1/32   
    It's not dead, just shelved after reality set in.
    Zactomodels (14 years) has been my full-time job for the last 12 years and aftermarket doesn't pay much. In order to keep food on the table it became necessary to make smaller products with shorter production times. A new release equals a sudden income flow. Those times between releases can be devastating.

    Next new product (coming soon): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
     
    In order to finish my YF-23 I'd probably need close to a year at the workbench (while maintaining the business, casting parts and filling orders of existing product).
    There is definitely still interest in the project (I still get e-mails asking about it) and I have everything I need to finish it. I just need to keep a steady flow of new products and orders going and not get interrupted again (working with crooked model companies that break their promises). When the time comes I'll remove the ever thickening layer of dust on this beauty and finish her off.
     

     
    In-progress here: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/89934-132-yf-23-black-widow-ii/
     

     
  25. Like
    Zactoman got a reaction from Durangokid in When will we get an F-22 or F-23 in 1/32   
    It's not dead, just shelved after reality set in.
    Zactomodels (14 years) has been my full-time job for the last 12 years and aftermarket doesn't pay much. In order to keep food on the table it became necessary to make smaller products with shorter production times. A new release equals a sudden income flow. Those times between releases can be devastating.

    Next new product (coming soon): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/306361-132-aim-120/
     
    In order to finish my YF-23 I'd probably need close to a year at the workbench (while maintaining the business, casting parts and filling orders of existing product).
    There is definitely still interest in the project (I still get e-mails asking about it) and I have everything I need to finish it. I just need to keep a steady flow of new products and orders going and not get interrupted again (working with crooked model companies that break their promises). When the time comes I'll remove the ever thickening layer of dust on this beauty and finish her off.
     

     
    In-progress here: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/89934-132-yf-23-black-widow-ii/
     

     
×
×
  • Create New...