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joker

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  1. Like
    joker reacted to Jennings Heilig in IPMS/USA just announced 2020 Nats cancelled   
    I know that was a tough decision, but it had to be done.  The IPMS demographic is a textbook example of high risk groups.
  2. Like
    joker reacted to Iain in Your stash.   
    I don't answer questions like that without a good lawyer being present... 
     
    Iain
  3. Like
    joker reacted to chuck540z3 in Rolls Royce Merlin exhaust angle on early Spitfires   
    These close-ups might help a bit.  Note that the center-line of the exhaust appears to be angled down slightly.
     

     

     
     
    From this rear angle, however, they look pretty flat.
     

     
     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  4. Like
    joker reacted to Cheetah11 in 2019 completed builds.   
    Not all LSP so I will post here. I made an effort to clear the shelf of doom and managed to get these completed.
     

     
    Nick
  5. Like
    joker reacted to karimb in 2 New WNW releases: Göring D.VII and Barker Snipe   
    The all white should be quite an interesting challenge that i might take up, regardless of fatty’s actions in ww2. Its the techniques to be used in painting and weathering a monotone finish, let alone white, that would be the centerpiece for me . Besides, another d.vii F in the stash wouldn’t hurt since they’re going for the price of kidneys on ebay 
     
    K
  6. Like
    joker reacted to Ryan in 2 New WNW releases: Göring D.VII and Barker Snipe   
    HG or not, just like the BvR release, this allows us 'late to the party' to aquire these OOP kits without donating kidneys on ebay.
  7. Like
    joker got a reaction from Gazzas in 2 New WNW releases: Göring D.VII and Barker Snipe   
    I was thinking about this morning on the way into work...I think for me, the idea of how to pull off the all white finish and make it interesting is the challenge...give what could be a very dull and boring paint scheme some life.... haven't decided yet as I have way too many projects and one more won't help.
     
    Just my thoughts...not important.
     
    P
  8. Like
    joker reacted to LSP_Ray in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    Arawasi Eagle Eye Series No. 2: Yokosuka/Kawanishi K5Y1 & K5Y2 "Akatonbo" ISBN 978-4-9904647-2-1
     
    Nice reference.
  9. Like
    joker reacted to Troy Molitor in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    Hey Mike,
     
    im in the States for another week and then heading back to Singapore.  Let me check on this when I get back.  
     
    Troy 
  10. Like
    joker reacted to thierry laurent in 32nd scale B-52 from HPH   
    I never thought an aftermarket "accessory" for the Special Hobby X-15 could be so expensive...
  11. Like
    joker reacted to Menelaos in What will be Airfix's next 1:24?   
    well I'm not one of those...I like the looks of the 35...I wish the HAF will fly it some day...come on back to topic please

  12. Like
    joker reacted to thierry laurent in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    The only pictures I found on the web some years ago:
     
    http://arawasi-wildeagles.blogspot.com/2014/08/indonesia-3-jakarta-willow.html
    http://www.j-aircraft.com/walk/erid_hefriadi/erid_k5y1.htm
     
    and one picture I got from a page that disappeared:
     

  13. Like
    joker reacted to thierry laurent in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    Here is what you need:
     
    http://www.arawasi.jp/salebook.hp/aramag/eye2.html
     
    As far as I know, there is no other dedicated reference!
     
    Hth
     
    Thierry
  14. Like
    joker reacted to thierry laurent in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    Do not hold your breath for a walkaround as there is just one remaining Akatombo and it is in a bad state in a museum in Indonesia. The abovementioned booklet has some pictures and very useful plans.
  15. Like
    joker reacted to Troy Molitor in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    I have the arawashi paperback book Thierry mentioned above.   It’s loaded with period photos and profiles.   I’d recommend it.   I don’t recall it being too expensive.   
     
    T
  16. Like
    joker reacted to Foxtrot 14 in Yokosuka K5Y Willow reference?   
    Try also looking for literature on IJN Trainers as well as it's common nickname "Akatonbo/Akatombo" (red dragonfly). Being a biplane trainer their cockpits lacked a lot of advanced features.
     
    I just yesterday finished the Entex-branded kit (same as Nitro/Doyusha but with both wheels and floats for variants as well as including wire for rigging.) First biplane I ever made, modified it with a bomb and marked to look like the kamikaze that sunk USS Callaghan.
  17. Like
    joker reacted to Out2gtcha in Good Affordable Photo Booth Setup for Large Models?   
    Hey Mike,
    Take a look around E-Bay for camera lighting setups. I got mine on E-bay for a really great price (cant remember the exact cost atm). A lot of the "cheapie" setups on Ebay from China have a lot of great stuff in them and mine has worked out really well so far. 
     
    Mine came with 3 hoods, all the lighting housings with 4 bulbs a piece, as well as a "crane" arm for the center hood with a ballast bag. I simply got a normal sized card table, and then went to my local camera shop and bought 3 rolls of "background material", some hanger clips and a backdrop curtain.  Not sure what its actually called but the rolls are quite wide, and it makes for a great LSP photo setup.
     
    A roll of white, black and grey background material:
     

     
    After I set up the overhead tube that the kit came with, I placed the card table under it, then  I put one of the rolls on it, so it came down over the card table:
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Then I set up the lights and hoods 
     
     

     
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
     
    Pics with even my older smart phone turned out really nice and are a HUGE improvement over anything previous I was doing:
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    I know this seems like a lot, but the whole thing minus the 3 background rolls and card table of course was under $200 USD   IIRC. There also were many, many different packages they offer with different prices and different equipment, so it pays to look around.
     
    Bottom line for me is don't be afraid of the cheaper setups from China, the one I got was a great deal, and for the cost has worked out about as well as I could have hoped.
     
     
    HTH
  18. Like
    joker reacted to seiran01 in WNW HP 0/100/400 duellist set?   
    My head hurts just thinking about this... luckily not every kit has a duellist! :-)
  19. Like
    joker reacted to Martinnfb in Chattanooga 2019 convention   
    Thank you for sharing. Nice and clear shots. 
    this one is absolutely mind-blowing 
     

     
  20. Like
    joker reacted to Gazzas in Relic Plywood pieces from a BF-109 G10   
    I know we love to argue about colours.  But the fact is that every batch was different.  The is no wrong answer if your colour is close to what your eyes tell you.
     
    mix your paint and enjoy the fact that there are variations between your Luftwaffe models that are painted in the same scheme.
     
    Gaz
  21. Like
    joker reacted to Kagemusha in New HK Models Kit TBA @ US Nats!   
    Probably be the same subject as the WnW's future release... Sea Harrier FRS.1. 
  22. Like
    joker reacted to OldTroll in New WnW @ Nationals (Chattanooga)   
    Hmmm....wouldn't they need the D.III first?  Maybe a combo kit with a land/sea option? I'm
    still holding out for a Star-strutter or anything Martinsyde or anything starting with "B.E."
     
  23. Like
    joker reacted to dennismcc in Okay, am I doing this wrong?   
    I always use Tamiya tape to mark out where I am going to place the mask on the model be it a roundel, a star or code letters, I mark the mask to allow the sections to be removed and replace accurately and I use spare mask material as transfer tape. I also do reverse masking, for example if I am using masks for red stars I will paint the star position red, then when it is dry place the mask over it and then paint the camouflage colours.
    Here's a Spitfire that I used this on.

    Here's the mask fitted with the aid of masking tape and panel lines, the X helps align the other colour sections.

    And the end result

    Masks are still tricky but for me they look better than decals.
     
    Cheers
     
    Dennis
     
     
  24. Thanks
    joker got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Okay, am I doing this wrong?   
    Hi All,
     
    Some thoughts on vinyl paint masks.
     
    When I transfer vinyl from the backer to a substrate at the signshop, I use a very low tack tape, I just call it paper tape, transfer tape is another name or application tape. While still on the backer, I will often throw it on top of a light table and create a registration mark, just so I have a reference line in which to measure from. A window works just as well, if there isn't a light table around.
     
    Once the vinyl has been located on the wing, and you've measured it at least six times ( I know, right?)..., tape down one edge, creating a "hinge" , fold it over remove the backer and place it gently on the wing..that way if you have to move it you have to...however I find that if i have to move it, then the second placement requires a bit more burnishing as some of the adhesive has been removed, if that makes any sense.
     
    If the transfer tape seems to be holding onto the vinyl mask a bit too aggressively, warm air will soften the adhesive, usually your breath is fine, just get close to the transfer material, peel back an edge and breathe and peel..it should do the trick...if it doesn't another trick is a bit of water on the transfer tape, not a lot, don't drown it..you just want to soften the adhesive on the transfer tape enough to remove it from the mask.
     
    When the mask is in place and and I'm happy with the placement, I just burnish it down on the edge, seems to work for me, but that's just me, you may want to burnish the whole mask down, up to you.
     
    Another thing I do, is cut more than I need, so when I make mistake, which after almost 25 years of doing this kind of thing, I still do, then I have another mask in the line up ready to go..I hate having to re cut vinyl..and it's not like I won't use it again.
     
    If it's a particularly complicated mask, or paint surface, I may do a sample on a spare piece of material going through the same steps of degreasing, priming, painting that I did on the scale model to see if there is any chance of a mask failure..we've all been there, so you know what I mean. it's a bit of extra time but I think it saves a lot of heartburn later on.
     
    These are things that work for me..you may find something in the above that works for you. You may not.
     
    Good Luck,
     
    Pete
     
  25. Like
    joker got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Okay, am I doing this wrong?   
    Hi All,
     
    Some thoughts on vinyl paint masks.
     
    When I transfer vinyl from the backer to a substrate at the signshop, I use a very low tack tape, I just call it paper tape, transfer tape is another name or application tape. While still on the backer, I will often throw it on top of a light table and create a registration mark, just so I have a reference line in which to measure from. A window works just as well, if there isn't a light table around.
     
    Once the vinyl has been located on the wing, and you've measured it at least six times ( I know, right?)..., tape down one edge, creating a "hinge" , fold it over remove the backer and place it gently on the wing..that way if you have to move it you have to...however I find that if i have to move it, then the second placement requires a bit more burnishing as some of the adhesive has been removed, if that makes any sense.
     
    If the transfer tape seems to be holding onto the vinyl mask a bit too aggressively, warm air will soften the adhesive, usually your breath is fine, just get close to the transfer material, peel back an edge and breathe and peel..it should do the trick...if it doesn't another trick is a bit of water on the transfer tape, not a lot, don't drown it..you just want to soften the adhesive on the transfer tape enough to remove it from the mask.
     
    When the mask is in place and and I'm happy with the placement, I just burnish it down on the edge, seems to work for me, but that's just me, you may want to burnish the whole mask down, up to you.
     
    Another thing I do, is cut more than I need, so when I make mistake, which after almost 25 years of doing this kind of thing, I still do, then I have another mask in the line up ready to go..I hate having to re cut vinyl..and it's not like I won't use it again.
     
    If it's a particularly complicated mask, or paint surface, I may do a sample on a spare piece of material going through the same steps of degreasing, priming, painting that I did on the scale model to see if there is any chance of a mask failure..we've all been there, so you know what I mean. it's a bit of extra time but I think it saves a lot of heartburn later on.
     
    These are things that work for me..you may find something in the above that works for you. You may not.
     
    Good Luck,
     
    Pete
     
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