Alburymodeler

Does the text display as gobbledegook for every one, or just me?

Maketar makes many of the masks that you'd need. You can also ask them to do custom ones for the serials and codes. I've used them many times on my builds. 
 
Heres a quick primer on using masks. 
 
1) I draw alignment marks on the mask to help line them up after they've been separated. I also number them each segment so that I know which ones go together. 
 

 

 
2) I'll use a piece of blank masking film to transfer the mask as one piece to the model. You can use the masking material itself or you can buy transfer film which is low tack. 
 

 
3) Position the mask in the correct spot. This is probably the hardest part. If you're not in a huge rush and want to get it absolutely perfect, you can spray a solution of soapy water on the model to let you slide the mask around. You'll have to let that dry before you can start painting though. 
 

 
4) Remove the first element that you're going to paint. In this case it's the red centre of the roundel. 
 

 
5) Repeat for the fin flashes and fuselage roundels. 
 

 
6) I will apply masking tape around the periphery of the masks to prevent any overspray. I will also overlap the seams of the other mask elements to prevent any paint getting between elements where you don't want it. 
 

 
7) Apply paint. I thin it down and apply thin coats so as not to build up too much on the model.
 

 
8) When the paint is dry, re-apply the element you removed, using the alignment marks to get the placement correct.
 

 
9) Then remove the next element and repeat the steps. 
 

 

 

 
The finished results. 
 

 
If you click on any of the pics, that should take you to my SmugMug folder which had more pics of the step by step for masks. 
 
Hope that helps. 
 
Carl

The Yak 9 seems reasonable.  

One thing that nobody has mentioned, while arguing ad infinitum about IP rights, is the legal strategy at play here. Plain and simple Sir PJ wants a piece of that Border Models Lancaster action; he wants Border to negotiate for the rights to produce the kit in exchange for a share of the profits. Lest you think that this is too small an amount to be trifled with, I’ll remind you that Donald Trump once signed and cashed a check for less than a dollar sent a a prank by a journalist to see who among wealthy people would cash checks that small. In this instance were probably talking an ask of US$100,000 or more. Why else would he wait until now to issue the cease and desist.

This story would make a good film.....
 

While I've never been a fan of the Beau at all, I'm happy for those that are looking to eventually snatch one for themselves.

opened my old revell beaufighter last week with a view to giving it a go and quickly shut it up. This is great news, hopefully a beaufort next 

as posted by Heinz on britmodeller, Beaufighter in progress
https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235100256-132-beaufighter-by-infinity-models/
 

 

 

 

Hello Fellows
 
Its been a long time since i started a 1/32 aircraft, i have been messing around with 1/35th for last few builds
 
So i have a renewed passion for the lightning after completing the 1/48th Airfix kit. The jet is just a fantastic pig ugly looking brute so i thought I'd dig out my 1/32 Trumpy and do inflight version on custom stand. Does anyone know of a seated pilot from this era???
 
I have read most threads across all the forums, most showing the kit issues and solutions. I honestly don't think I have the skills to cut and add the 5mm. I just don't think I could blend the insert to my satisfaction, plus the NMF will show up imperfection to much for my liking
 
I have the superb Airies cockpit which is stunning, and i also have the none fitting Aires exhaust nozzles which I will not be using. I will be fixing the easier issues only.
 
This is a bit of a Tribute build to George Aird who famously ejected from a lightning in 1962. I went to school with both his sons and met him couple of times. His sons used to say he was the first RAF pilot to use ejector seat. I was a school boy when I met him and wasn't bothered about one of my mates dads. Now if I met him I'd have hundreds of question. I'm unsure if he's still alive, I moved to Australia and lost touch with his sons
 
So this may not be the best Lightning in the world........its a tribute
 
 


 
 

I hope you're wrong
 

 
Some more profiles to whet the appetite

My fifth construction Ta 152H from ZM. I started the construction two years ago, but postponed it for a while.
I'm finishing it now.
I used a Yahu dashboard, HGW belts in the cockpit,
I would use Barracuda wheels.
Painting mask are my own production.
Stencils data  I used HGW wet tansfers.
 








 








 
 


 













 
 

Hi
    I wouldnt worry much, to many errors in it for me 
 
  best reference is the whirlwind fighter project website
 
  they are building a 1:1 scale replica 
   cheers
    jerry 

I have my first kit half way together. You need to be careful of the cockpit, assemble bits into each side and mate them up to the wing with the internals installed there. Some trimming will be needed to get it to fit, mainly on the diagonal panels which go down to the rear spar. Do it before gluing the halves together so you can see where cuts need to be made. 
The fuselage around the trailing edge of the wing needs some serious filler to correct the sections, there being no concave sections there (on the sides). I do like the way the expanded fuel tanks are done underneath, even the very subtle fillets from outer wing to centre section. The top fuel tank is nice but I think it might be a little exaggerated, but if so they have gone to an awful lot of trouble to get it wrong.
Overall, highly recommended so far.

I have my first kit half way together. You need to be careful of the cockpit, assemble bits into each side and mate them up to the wing with the internals installed there. Some trimming will be needed to get it to fit, mainly on the diagonal panels which go down to the rear spar. Do it before gluing the halves together so you can see where cuts need to be made. 
The fuselage around the trailing edge of the wing needs some serious filler to correct the sections, there being no concave sections there (on the sides). I do like the way the expanded fuel tanks are done underneath, even the very subtle fillets from outer wing to centre section. The top fuel tank is nice but I think it might be a little exaggerated, but if so they have gone to an awful lot of trouble to get it wrong.
Overall, highly recommended so far.

Halberd Models Cavalier Mustang/Mustang II Conv
Available on their eBay Store

Except one us in 48th and one 32nd and as has been very clearly learned simply blowing something up to a larger scale is a far more complex undertaking than just copying.
All panel lines, raised detail etc will be far far overscale and look horrendous if simply copied.
Besides that a cursory glance at both the kits gives immediate huge differences in the look of the two kits.
About the only similarity is they both look like Fairy Swordfish.
Different fuselage designs, completely different style wings with completely different canvas effects.
Not only are they not copies a quick look side by side shows they are not even distant cousins.
I have even after sitting them side by side for under 2 minutes no idea how anyone could think one is a copy of the other.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

Wouldn't that be stealing......?
 

All the different scales are interesting if you want to make an airfield diorama in depth.
Like in a "looking-box".
 
Put a 24 th or 32 nd first,then 35 th,then 48 th,then 72 nd,and even finish with a 1/144 th model in line.
This way you create a line of planes parked on the airfield.
 
Starting with 24 th might be to much.It would be a very big looking-box
 
Same can be done with figures,cars,control tower,etc...
 
You could even have a couple of planes in the air by using only half a model in 72 nd or 1/144 th on a blue background.
 
I often played with the idea of doing such a project with a line of Hurricanes or Spitfires.
It never reached beyond that.

He 112 and Wasp D-21 as well for me.
 

Hi Folks, here is my WIP on my Eduard 1:48 Bf 110E. I picked up this kit when it first came out, around 2008 somewhere and I started work on the cockpit. Unfortunately, I wasn't happy with my initial work  so consequently it sat around unfinished and nagging at the back of my thoughts until recently when inspiration for the Bf 110 struck. It's a tricky little kit laden with challenges but definitely not without its merits and for Petes sake ( pun intended ) I just can't let it get the better of me. Besides, the stunning boxtop art and the chance to have a mottled finish in RLM 65, 02, 71 seemed to good to resist. 
 
I'm sure most of you are familiar with this kit but never the less here is a picture of the box top lid.......
 
 
 
Ok, so here is the forward cockpit in all its RLM 02 grey green glory. I used Gunze for the base tone with flat black pre shading to begin. There's and oil wash of black and burnt Sienna and the chips and scuffing were applied with  the sponge technique using Vallejo German Cam. black brown. As I mentioned previously, I wasn't happy with my first finish so a lot of reworking and blending was utilized with the above methods until I was satisfied.
 
 
 
 
I also employed an edition photo etch set from Eduard for this kit to enhance some of the cockpit parts such as the throttle console, rudder pedals and Instrument panel.
 
 
 
A shot of some of the rear and forward pit parts which includes the Quickboost ammunition canisters and radios. I had to saw off the Quickboost radios from their bulkhead as it was quite smaller then the kit part and I didn't want take any chances with fit issues. It was then just a simple matter of attaching them to the kit bulkhead with CA glue. I used the Eduard color photo etch I.P  from the kit but I didn't like the pixelated look of the color etched so I toned it down with several washes. I added some Future in the instrument lenses but its not really showing up in the picture to well.
 
 
 
The two rear cockpit side walls, coincidentally I was happy with the way these turned out in my first workings.
 
 
 
And finally, the rear cockpit floor assembly which happened to be quite fiddly but worth it in the end. I left out some of the forward ammunition canisters here and some of the lower ones had to endure some plastic shaving to get them to fit. I'm not sure if this was due to some misalignment of my own doing when I first started building this kit.
 
 
 
Well, thats it for now and thanks for taking a look inside,
Cheers,
Pete.
 
 
 
 

Second.
 



















 

I’m torn with this one, whether to do it in a real scheme, or indulge in some wiffery and build it as a Reno racer... Looks like I’ll have to buy 2!

Sounds great.  If the build is half as good as your Mossie, it will be a cracker.  Pity about the dearth of Spitfire V kits though.  However, for the markings, I'd recommend you get hold of a copy of Brian Cauchi's book on Malta Spitfires.  Heaps of info, pics and drawings, and a good read too.  Lots of places you can get it from, but here's one.
 

 
https://www.bookdepository.com/Malta-Spitfire-Vs-1942-Brian-Cauchi/9788361421795
 
 
Cheers,
Michael

Curiously the future releases on Hannants have disappeared, like the Cheshire Cat...

the first details of the new project Lemkits at 1:32 in front of you. And soon the "beast" will come out of the shadows).