Daywalker

Oh man, I can't wait to come down there and fly with you!

Maru asked to have her account removed, and is therefore no longer a member here.
 
Kev

The last time this was discussed on LSP was ...three months ago! 
 
 
 

Ok,this is what I've uncovered, the AS used the broader prop blades, the forward bumps are removed,it used the larger supercharger intake [ so you can use the G-10], Erla Haube hood,starter unit tank access panel on dorsal spine right side between frames 5 and 6,two filler cap access panels on dorsal spine right side between frames 4 and5 GM-1 was upper, with MW-50 below, short antenna mast. The cowlings were some what like the G-10s but more symmetrical. That's all I can come up with ATM

Oh how I know , might want to double  check on the "bumps" on the lower front cowl though. I'll check my merger references and see if I can get back to you. 

I got this to help me build the one i want using the Revell G6 kit
 
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/amur-reaver-rc3218-bf-109g-6-as-conversion--1263214

@Daywalker
My opinion (for 0.2cts max.)  
When we have some interest and knowledge into 109 history (and mainly 'G" type), we can understand why there is such complexity to model a 109.
The more simple is that you must have a picture (or profile from your choice) of the actual plane you want to do.
I'm pretty sure that in the real life, in the wartime period, it was quasi impossible to find at two exactly same plane. 
 
That is exactly what Reimund @Isar 30/07 said.

Interesting question as I want to do a G-6AS one day as well.
 
According to my references (MMP Books, White Series #9110 "Bf 109 Late Versions) the G-6 AS are described as
 
- all a/c had the tall vertical tail units and the earlier Erla canopies (although some were fitted with old, all-metal head armour)
- some a/c had the long tailwheel and larger Fo 987 oil coolers
- maybe some a/c also had the larger oil tank
- some a/c were fitted with the FuG 16ZY radioes and a Morane antenna under the fuselage
- a/c converted from G-6´s had the antenna mast mounted on the fuselage spine just behind the cockpit
- new G-6 AS´s had the antenna mast mounted on the canopy frame and others had no antenna mast at all
 
Unfortunately, there is nothing written about the propeller blades, but I found some photos where they used the broad blades:
 
http://falkeeins.blogspot.com/search/label/Bf 109 G-6%2FAS
https://me109.info/web.php?lang=de&auth=e&name=version_display&auswahl_uv=99&auswahl_hv=1&versionscategory=9
 
 
I´m no expert on Bf 109´s but that´s the way I would do my G-6 AS - some day.
 
I have the Amur Reaver conversion set and my choice of kit is the G-6 from Revell.
If I hadn´t this conversion set my choice would be Hasegawa´s G-10 as well.
 
When using Hasegawa´s G-10 you have to relocate some hatches (the round one on the port side of the nose sits now directly above the vent) 
as well as on the starboard side (the cold-start access hatch is located deeper, I would say 1/3 above the exhaust covering).
Hopefully the pictures could explain it better... 
 
 
Cheers
 
Reimund 

I'm with you guys, if there's a kit I like I'll buy 3 or 4 of them.  Or 6, or 12...
 

Thanks
My style may not be very healthy, I have some obsessions I'm afraid. I usually buy 3 or 5 or sometimes more from the models I choose according to my bucket list. This collection realised in a period of approximately 10-15 years.
I keep some of them in the basement or in the empty spaces of the house.

I think they're waiting for the economics of such a kit to be favorable to Tamiya.
 
If there was a lot of money to be made off 1/32 aircraft kits, we'd get 2 a year from them.
 
 

Hi all,
Engine and cowl assemblies fitted.
Fuselage side fairings and underside deflector fitted.
 
Now onto the fuselage weathering,
 
Mike
 

 

I am just now slowly coming out of a nearly 3 year break for exactly the same reason. Just lost my model mojo, so moved on to other hobbies. Carved some rifle stocks, worked on my old car project, played some video games, sharpened my 3D printing skills a bit, even restored a Vietnam War vintage M1 helmet that my dad found as a kid. The mojo is slowly returning, so I've recently gotten a few things off the shelf. Nothing wrong with a break!
 
Tim

Or just ask her for some "honey", then you wont care about modeling for at least 3 minutes.

ask your wife for some honey-do´s, you will long to be at the bench in notime....

Just bring back the Thunderbirds F-16 in regular grey styrene to make earlier blocks or better still mix both F-16 kits in to an Aggressor boxing like the 1/48 kit.

Below is my recently completed WNW SE5a.  I constructed and painted the two figures concurrently with building the SE5a; they are by Kellerkind (light brown leather coat) and Model Cellar (darker brown leather coat).  I had alot of fun constructing and painting both the aircraft and the figures; however, I got the most satisfaction making the diorama base because my 8 year old daughter helped me.  After I showed her how to apply the snow mixes I made, she applied the snow to the small tree (or large bush), did the snow under the tree and put down the snow on probably 2/3 of the base.  I only made very minor adjustments afterwards.  She had a lot of fun and I am very proud of her!
 
I built the kit mostly oob but added Gaspatch MG's, an HGW seatbelt and a Proper Plane propeller.  I scratchbuilt a few items for the engine, a magneto for the cockpit and the little crank for the magneto on the outside of the cockpit.  Unfortunately I could not maneuver the camera to get many shots of that work, but if you are interested you can see it in my build thread in the "In Progress" section.  I rigged the model with a combination of EZ Line and Uschi elastic thread; threading most of the lines through Gaspatch eyelets.  I also added control wires in the cockpit, which again you can't see in this series of photos. 
 
Some overall shots first.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Some closer views and (hopefully) a couple of "mood" shots.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hope the photos series was not too long and you enjoyed looking through it!
 
Ernest

Thanks! That’s what I was going for-
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
(it’s an airplane you idiot…man! some people are so stupid  )

Hey guys!
 
Adding onto my 1/48th scale Jolly Rogers 320th BS / 90th BG themed builds (in honor of my grandfather who served in the 320th) I decided to build another aircraft that was used in the squadron. A Piper L-4 Cub known as "Moby Dick Jr.".
 
I had already built a B-24J in my grandfather's markings,

 
Along with a model of our 1942 Jeep my father and I own and operate.

 

 
Maybe a little bit of manifest destiny but, if I (or the museum) ever acquires a real L-4 at some point, I'd love to paint it like this one! Here are the only two shots I can find of the original. Pictured next to her big brother.

 

 
Kit:
I used a Smer kit for the Piper Cub. I found it to be a pretty straightforward build. The crosshatched fabric pattern was especially nice on the kit. I didn't end up with any major issues as I went along with the build., Just more of the usual start and stop issue with motivation on my part. I was searching as I built this post, but for the life of me, I cant find any early pictures of me building this damn thing! 
 

 
I glued the entire fuselage together (sans canopy) as well as the wings separate. I painted them in subassembly since the canopy was the giant lynch pin for all of it and that had to wait to be installed. I ended up making some simple seatbelts from tape, and a little paper checklist left on the forward seat in the plane. Other then that, no additions or modifications were made to the model.
 
Paint:
I initially painted the model in primer grey. Then I painted the fuselage and wings with a trusty rattle can of Olive Drab that we ordered for our full scale Jeep! I ended up using some Valeijo OD and neutral grey to touch up areas and paint the canopy. I masked off the tail section and shot a few coats of white until it was solid. I used the Valeijo US Dark Forrest Green that I had used on my 1/7nd B-17F for the splotches that appear on the topside of the wings. 
 
Decals:
Originally I had intended to design and draw my own decals in Illustrator, but then (thankfully) DK Decals came out with a wonderful set!
https://www.aviationmegastore.com/en/modelling/piper-l4hne-1in-usaaf-and-raaf-service-8-camo-schemes-dk-decals-dk48019-160721.html
I found the decals to go on very easily, though it took a little force to eventually break them away from the carrier film on the decal sheet. After all the decals were on and melted down with solveset, I hit it with a flat coat of clear spray. The one nail bitter of a situation was the black paint you had to paint on the nose BEFORE the shark mouth was added on both sides. Getting the right shaped black background was tricky, as the starboard side was not enough, and had some Olive Drab poking through. I had to go in and carefully add black with my thinnest brush. I did my best to adjust the black on the port side and wouldn't you know it, it worked! No touch ups necessary!
 
Final Assembly:
With the motivation to try and finish up a few choice projects in my old office / workspace before we moved into a house, I decided to try and get this model done and out the door! 

 
Using the tiniest amount of super glue on the ends of the canopy's stubs for the wings, I glued them on, and used a decent amount of Krystal Klear to attach the canopy to the fuselage. I ended up getting the wing struts backwards, as they were not going on correctly, and had to take them off and re-glue them in the correct orientation. I also went back and added some additional PVA glue in the open gaps with the canopy and the fuselage / wings. One of the last things I did was used some stretched sprue for wires for the tail and horizontal stabs. After that I called it good!
 

 
And I asked my dad to take a few shots today with the Jeep in tow. I think it came out alright! Once we have a place in the museum (or another external location) I'd like to put our 90th BG display back together someplace and this L-4 will definitely be in it!
 

 

 

 
Hope you enjoyed the build! I'll make sure to take more in progress shots next time!

A G-10 and a K is what I'd like to see too! i can build a G-6 out of this kit so those [G-10and K] would be my pick

Hi All
 
Finally brought this one across the finish line and got around to taking some pictures.
 
This is the 1/32 Academy SUFA kit converted into a Royal Moroccan Air Force F-16D block 52+
I have always loved the RMAF camouflage on their F-16´s so I knew I had to build one eventually.
Getting the decals together proved especially difficult as almost nothing exists in 1/32 and certainly not for the F-16 fleet. It is a mix of generic decals, Moroccan decals in various scales for various aircraft and black F-16 stencils for a Polish block 52. The red "Ejection seat" triangles are unique to the Moroccan F-16´s but luckily I remembered having seen them on a sheet for the "Wraith" Aggressor aircraft - so had to buy 2 sets of those  
 
The weapons are all aftermarket; AIM-120C´s and Sniper pod are from Eduard as well as the BRU-57´s. The GBU-54´s are from Videoaviation. The AIM-9X is from Brengun and the ACMI pod is from Bandit Resin Factory. 
 
I also used the excellent SUFA cockpit from Wolfpack, Aires wheelbays and a Block 52+ conversion set from Grand Models. This set contains, amongst other things, the correct tail fairings, nose gear door and various antennas - great set at a good price.
I also used the KASL exhaust but ended up only using the outer piece. The inner ring was not a good fit so I used the kit part for that. 
 
You can find the build thread here:  https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/94671-f-16d-block-52-royal-moroccan-air-force-done/
 
 
Picture time...
 

 
 
Thanks for looking
 
/Niels

Hi Kev!
Thanks my friend!
I guess folks here like to see how the sausage is made!
here it is in its ugly phase. Blast tubes relocated with styrene tube. Pilot hatch relocated to match up with the Model Monkey cockpit, shell eject ports from brass rectangular tube..all faired- in with JB Weld. Sand/fill/ prime multiple times 

 
then prime/ sand prime



 
Fun fact: every drawing I have of the Beau has the shell eject ports wrong. By dumb luck I stumbled on a photo directly from below that showed the correct orientation. Also found out the cannon blast tubes are not symmetrical-
 
cheers
Pete

And here’s where we are now- gloss coat applied.. but lots of fiddly bits to go…more paint..etc..

The Model Monkey parts are outstanding. The fit is perfect! Steve at Model Monkey made me a template of the wood floor area from his CAD file, and I used that to cut the decals. Thanks Steve! You the man!
 
Look at how cool this is-

 
more to follow-
 
cheers
Pete

Hello,

First of all, thank you very much for your warm welcome.

I've always liked the brightly painted Japanese carrier planes. The famous A6M comes to the list of these machines. Personally, there was no doubt for me which Tamyia set I would assemble first. One base color of the plane and the Japanese theme, which has been accompanying me since I started gluing half a year ago, gave me a slightly better chance than with other planes from this company.

Simultaneously with the Ki-84 being built, I started work on the much more complex A6M2 model. In principle, the construction in this way was supposed to solve several problems. First, the Ki-84 was intended as a test model for the use of colors and techniques. Secondly, I wanted to eliminate the risk of working on not dry elements. After the end of the stage, I took the second model and the first one dried in peace.
And so, after almost three months, I finished my fourth model. Excellent Tamyia set, my first model from this company. I basically only used what was in the box to make the model. Only the Montex masks were supposed to allow me to eliminate large decals almost completely. The paints are Tamyia and Gunze. I created the model itself by building the color from several layers. Starting with the base, several layers of metallisers to finally build three shades from the base color and alternately create the most complex surface of the plane.
 
I made the model completely in accordance with the instructions, with all mechanisms and moving parts, although I realize that it is not a toy, I decided not to interfere with the instructions of the model when I first faced Tamyia.
 
I highly recommend it to anyone who hasn't had a chance to make this model yet. I had a lot of fun building the stages and reading the books about this fighter. It was a fascinating adventure and honestly I'm a bit sad that it's over.
 

 
The plane presents the Saburo Shindo machine - a veteran of fighting over China. The plane comes from 07.12.1941 from the attack on Pearl Harbor. Shindo was stationed on the aircraft carrier Akagi and commanded cover groups, attacking various ground targets. He also led his Zeros to attack Hickam Airfield. Aircraft from his group also clashed with American fighters that day. He was lucky to survive the war. He died in 2000.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EA-18G GROWLER VAQ -141 “Shadowhawks” former Tactical Electronic Warfare Squadron 141
This is the 1/32 Trumpeter kit, which isn’t bad if you compare it to the new Revell kits.
This was built with the red fox cockpit, and Aires ejector seats, and resin engine nozzles and was painted using a combination of MRP and Hataka paints, enjoy
Mike