Phantom2

Easy now...  
 
Update coming soon...
 
Stefan 

I got the two kits "that got away", alas, the ones I missed out on earlier.
 
I bought the Mirage 2000 and the Texan T-6 from Modellbau-König (Modelbuildig King) in Germany.
 
They look EXACTLY as the KH boxes did, logo, colors, all is the same and now MBK have (or had....) almost the whole range!
 
I got what I wanted so I´m happy! 
 
 
Stefan 

Nice work, Håkan!      
 
Stefan   
 
 
 

Easy now...  
 
Update coming soon...
 
Stefan 

Hi All!
 
 
 
 
 
Now, we can remove the lid and take a look on what´s in the box!
 
It´s a standard “Eduard/Special Hobby” sieze box and there´s plenty of room for the kit, not many parts here, really.
 
All parts comes in a single, large plastic bag, the clear parts are thankfully in their own, smaller plastic bag.
The instructions and decals also come in a separate plastic bag.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Fuselage halves….
 
 
 
 
The wings….
 
 
 
 
One large frame with tailplanes, nose wheel bay, engine parts and small detail parts…
 
 
 
 
One smaller frame with elevators, tanks, fins and pylons…
 
 
 
 
One small frame with smaller parts…
 
 
 
 
One clear frame…
 
 
 
 
These are among the best clear parts I have ever seen!
No distortion, completely scratch free, very nice and WELL DONE, Fly!
 
 
 
 
A large, well printed decal sheet with decals for 4 interesting machines, 2 Swedish and 2 Austrian.
 
 
 
 
That little sheet to the right contains the instrument decals.
 
 
 
 
 
 Very well printed decals, even if I can spot some spelling errors,
 
even the Swedish Crowns are looking good and usable, and look at the  badges!
 
 
 
 
 
The little devil….
  
 
 
 
Finally, you´ll get a large bag with resin parts as cockpit, seat, wheel wells and wheels and some small detail parts.
 
Here are the parts cleaned up and removed from their plugs.
 
 
 
 
This is the aircraft I will build, Red Tore (Tango), s/n 29652, 1st Sqn. F9 (F6?).
 
 
 
 
I really like those black exercise markings!
 
 
More to come soon!
 
Stefan  

A Swedish firm called "Maestro Models", many 3D printed and Resin/metal parts and even Decals for Swedish Aircrafts in all major scales.
 
The Nosegear set have art.no. 3206...
 
https://www.maestromodels.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3206
 
...and the Intake set have the art. no. 3204
 
https://www.maestromodels.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3204
 
 
I can only recommend this firm, I have used their products in many of my builds.
 
Stefan 
 
 
 

Hi all!
 
 
As this is a Jubilee-build and a long one, even I have a chance to get it over the finish line!
 
What better then building something from my hometown of Linköping, Sweden, where the SAAB J-29 Tunnan (Barrell) was built during the 50´s and 60´s.
 
I´ll use the FLY kit and some aftermarket, even tough there’s not much available.
 
 

 
 
I have the Maestro nose ring as the kit intake is more akin a MiG-15 then a Tunnan.
 
 

 
 
As my main reference I have this book by Mikel Forslund, signed by the author himself!
 
 

 
 
More to come soon!
 
 
Stefan   
 
 

Thank you Boris!
 
I've started painting the pilot.
 

 
I still have a bit more to paint on him.
 
I masked the wheel wells, making it ready for primer.
 

 
Then I used UMP black primer.
 

 
After sorting a few minor seams, I painted black again and later it got some aluminium paint.
 

 
I managed to a few spots here and there, that I need to sort. Once that is done and dried properly, I'll mask for some additional tones of bright metal.
Then I'll have some masking to do for the black and yellow nose.
 
Håkan
 

If only we could get a very similar RAF Avro Anson of the same quality...

All-
 
I just got this little beauty in my hot little hands today, all the way from Russia via an intermediary from Romania I believe. I was able to order directly from KEP Models, and it took about three weeks to get here. Let's see what's in the box.
 
 
Oodles and oodles of darker grey printed resin, and it is absolutely beautifully cast. The structures that support the larger pieces are quite impressive:
 
 
The fuselage is molded into four main pieces; two tail halves with the horizontals already attached, and two almost complete fuselage halves.
 
 
 
The fuselage and tail interiors have locating pins, which is a nice touch. They are quite large, and the  fit is very tight. What's tricky is the break between the tail and the fuselage coes along side some beautifully cast stretched fabric, so care will be needed to maintain the texture and hide the seams.
 
 
The interior is fairly basic, but the structure provided on the walls in the cockpit is very nice. Some bulkhead pieces are included as well, which are quite nice. But here's a real gem for the interior, the instrument panel with attached throttle quadrant, complete with some very delicate and detailed levers.
 
 
Wings are each one-piece affairs, and they too have some nice molding on them with some subtle oil-canning:
 
 
Engine nacelles are also molded as one piece:
 
 
Speaking of the engine nacelles, the engines are absolutely exquisite. They feature some very fine details, especially on the crank case and piston heads:
 
 
 
The most important piece not to get damaged was the canopy, and I was fortunate there:
 
 
Two vacform canopies are included. Here we also see landing lights, and a sheet of protected acetate to make the side windows, complete with a sticker designed so you can cut out the windows from the sheet.
 
 
The other stabilizer is loose in the box, along with some other small bits. Speaking of bits...
 
Check out this fancy tail wheel, all one-piece:
 
 
 
Other small bits included the landing gear pieces, optional skis, landing gear doors (not pictured, were lose in the box), and a really nicely molded machine gun for the top of the fuselage.
 
 
Props, flaps, and bombs round out the bits:
 
 
The bombs are beautifully cast as single pieces with separate bomb shackles.
 
 
Decals are included for one option, with a color profile to aid in painting it properly.
 
Instructions are two sheets, with clear pictures of the assembly sequence so that you don't have to worry about reading the Cyrillic. 
 
 
In it's trip from Russia, I only had one broken piece, which is a big surprise considering how brittle these 3D printed resin kits are:
 
 
Fortunately for me, this means I get to navigate the fabric texture and a panel line three times, rather than two like the rest of you.
 
That's what comes in the box, for roughly $106US shipped. I can highly recommend this kit, and anything else that KEP produces! This is a real gem.
 
- Dennis S.
   Mount Juliet, TN USA

Delivered in overall sand to the front.
Camouflage was up to the crew in the field.
Maybe I could add smoke rings.
 
Not many would identify this as the Tony at first glance
 
 

The reviews for this kit have me a little worried, but I've found a couple of builds that have dealt with the worst of the issues. At first glance the parts look sharp and cleanly molded, and the surface detail, especially the fabric effects are very convincing. We'll see how it goes.
 

 

 

 

This kit is the old Hasegawa in a Revell box;
 
 
I used the kit decals out of this boxing!
 
There are two options besides the Swiss aircraft, both in agressor schemes and I´m pretty sure one of the options was Alconbury.
 

 
Stefan 

This kit is the old Hasegawa in a Revell box;
 
 
I used the kit decals out of this boxing!
 
There are two options besides the Swiss aircraft, both in agressor schemes and I´m pretty sure one of the options was Alconbury.
 

 
Stefan 

This kit is the old Hasegawa in a Revell box;
 
 
I used the kit decals out of this boxing!
 
There are two options besides the Swiss aircraft, both in agressor schemes and I´m pretty sure one of the options was Alconbury.
 

 
Stefan 

This kit is the old Hasegawa in a Revell box;
 
 
I used the kit decals out of this boxing!
 
There are two options besides the Swiss aircraft, both in agressor schemes and I´m pretty sure one of the options was Alconbury.
 

 
Stefan 

Not a single one of my models can be called accurate. I started out sweating on the little inaccuracies, and found I just didn’t enjoy the hobby. Added to that, I junked models because I deemed them not accurate enough. I was constantly making comparisons between my own, and some of the modelling superstars we have here. That caused a complete lack of enjoyment.  
I soon switched to a system of overlooking shape and proportion inaccuracies. If it looks like what I’m trying to build, that will do for me. 

Of course I WANT my models to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes (...most of the times...) reality kicks in.
 
But I usually have a very relaxed attitude to dimensions (as long as the overall shape is OK), markings and colors, depending on the subject.
 
As long as I have fun buildig the kit and I´m satisfied with the result, I´m happy!
 
After all, not many people except my wife and myself will ever see it!
 
 
Stefan 

Of course I WANT my models to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes (...most of the times...) reality kicks in.
 
But I usually have a very relaxed attitude to dimensions (as long as the overall shape is OK), markings and colors, depending on the subject.
 
As long as I have fun buildig the kit and I´m satisfied with the result, I´m happy!
 
After all, not many people except my wife and myself will ever see it!
 
 
Stefan 

Of course I WANT my models to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes (...most of the times...) reality kicks in.
 
But I usually have a very relaxed attitude to dimensions (as long as the overall shape is OK), markings and colors, depending on the subject.
 
As long as I have fun buildig the kit and I´m satisfied with the result, I´m happy!
 
After all, not many people except my wife and myself will ever see it!
 
 
Stefan 

Of course I like to think of my models as accurate  .
It depends of my degree of self-persuasion at the time. Especially when I know that nobody else but myself will see the models in the flesh.
IMO the most important is not the accuracy. It’s the good time we had when we built the model. 

Thanks everyone for your kind words!
 
I made a start last weekend and have removed all the details in preparation for the Red Fox 3D decals. Half way through I thought there must be an easier way than using a sanding stick, then it dawned on my that I have a mini rotary tool which made life a lot easier. 
 
After removing all of the detail in the avionics bay I decided to do build this buttoned up, there is some fantastic details that will be lost but I want this bird to look sleek. I have the G version in my stash which I plan to have everything opened up and will be in Italian or German markings, this will make a nice contrast to the NMF on this build.
 

 
The seat is a bit basic but with the lightening holes drilled out and a few of the seams filled it is ready for paint and the Quinta detail set. One issue with the seat is that the seat back is slightly wider than the bottom part, fortunately it comes with two and the second was a slightly better fit.
 

 
The Red Fox set is very nice! I used the Quinta set in my Kinetic 1/48 build and IMHO the Red Fox are easier to apply, just peel off and stick on, the only caveat being the kit part has to be nice and flat.
 

 
The IP looks fantastic, nicely done Red Fox!
 

 
Finally, it comes together. I'm quite pleased how it turned out.
 

 
The next part is building the engine and having a blast at using a ResKit resin exhaust for the first time.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Jeremy 

I´d wait for the Kotare Spit....
 
Don´t care much for 1/35 scale....
 
 
Stefan 

Walking in the mall and walked by this. Bought it. Not sure why as I likely will never build it but I used to see the real one in Heathrow and Dubai all the time. It is 40 inches long when done. I really have no place for it.
 

The painting of the markings from the masks as well as the laying of the decals was successful, not everything had to be painted from the masks. The end is near so it is high time to look around for the next model.