johng

Hello Robert, The larger markings, crosses, swastikas, etc., can be hard to apply without shifting and tearing. You have to make sure the backing sheet doesn't move while working the transfer with the proper tool. You're doing nice work so far on the E. Be sure to dry fit everything before glueing it up. When I built one of these years ago there were fit problems with the engine cowl and canopy pieces in particular that I remember.

A few years ago, 21st supposedly had a prototype of an F4 Phantom in 1/18th scale but nothing ever came of it either. I'd rather see that one go into production before an F-14.

Looks great, Russ. You've done yourself proud once again. Isn't it amazing how a 65 year old design hardly looks dated at all? I wouldn't think this plane would need a whole lot of weathering considering it was only a couple of months old when the war ended.

My all-time favorite aircraft! Looking forward to the magic you'll do with it.

Matt, the photos I've found show a hinged door on the end of the shell loading chute. The hinge is on the bottom edge of the opening and the door drops down. The ejector chute doesn't have a door in my pic. Those guns look great and will really spiff up the model.

The only time I've had Future bead up on me is when the surface was not perfectly clean of contaminants like skin oils from fingerprints.

Looks great. Your airbrush work on the camo is perfect. I did an E with this scheme years ago but had to do it with a brush because I was sure my Paasche model H wasn't fine enough for the job and I wasn't very proficient with it at the time anyway. Do you plan on weathering this model?

Copyright on my original instruction sheet is 1969. The F model dates from 1966.

That's a really fine job on a rough kit, Larry.

Earliest mark to be used in Africa appears to be the A4/Trop.

Your work has been well worth the effort, Guttorm, and is much appreciated. If only we could get photos and information this good for every model we want to build!

I've used green florist's clay for nose weight. It's not oily like regular modelling clay and doesn't seem to crack over time.

Looks really good so far Erik. Was thinking about your weight problem, , and rather than pour plaster into the nacelles, how about putting bits of clay or blue tack through the back of the nacelles and tamping it into place with your brush handle around the perimeter of the weights? It would be a lot less messy and there wouldn't be any chance of plaster seeping out anywhere.

Nice job Smudger. You got a good clean fit at the wing roots too, an area on this kit that I always had trouble with.

Guttorm, Your photos are, as always, a great source of detail seldom seen elsewhere and I look forward to more of any aircraft in your museum. I have a question though regarding the excellent restoration of your He-111. The swastika on the tail overlaps the rudder but I thought that this placement only applied to non-combat machines. On front line airplanes the marking would be more forward wouldn't it?

Glad it worked out for you Dave. Take the time and try to remove those last bits if you can because they WILL be noticeable under the new markings. Ask me how I know this.

Is the paint flat or gloss? Enamel or acrylic? What methods have you tried so far? Soak a wad of tissue in decal setting solution and hold it on the decal for awhile. This should soften the decal somewhat. Then wrap a piece of masking tape, sticky side out, around the tip of your finger and touch it to the decal avoiding the paint as much as possible. If the paint is flat, most of the decal should come off pretty easily and you can then gently scrape off the remaining bits with the point of a wooden toothpick. This will be harder to do on gloss paint but should work with a little patience.

Sorry 'bout that guys, I remembered incorrectly.

A build of this kit was posted on Hyperscale yesterday in the What's New page.

Looks truly amazing Geoff. You should feel very proud of the work you've done with this. Re the BMF, a flat coat should tone it down nicely. Trouble with BMF chrome is that it's not shiny enough to look like real chrome and too shiny to look like unpolished aluminum. If it were on an accessible area, buffing it up with superfine steel wool or sanding cloth would give an acceptable aluminum look but, where yours is, a flat coat is about the only way.

You are correct, Mike. Paint only adds weight thereby increasing fuel consumption and lowering top speed.

Looks great Ron! Almost a shame to dirty it up.

Got a Mattel vac-u-form here, Erik, and I'd be happy to make as many sets as you want if you send the master. Looking at a blowup of the color pic of the 1:1 aircraft, the bulges show a distinct flange around the edges and they appear to be rivited in place. I never noticed that in other photos of these planes. The variance of size and shape of the bulges between aircraft is probably because no dies were made for such a limited parts run so late in the war. Each set was likely hand formed by a metalsmith for each plane.

I'd be interested in the Kikka kit. Will have to do some online research.

Great job Russ! Well up to your usual high standard.