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  1. Like
    dodgem37 got a reaction from Hartmann52 in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A   
    That is some nice modelling, Wolf.  You must have a Parts Catalog.
    'RB Productions rivet wheel was very instrumental in accomplishing that.'
    Which did you use?  What do you think of the RB tools' spacing and imprint tie-in to Tamiyas riveting?
    The detail on those flaps are incredible.
    I know drilling that .009 hole for 2 lb mono was testy.  Out of alignment, a little too much pressure, not to mention the angles you had to drill.  That's an easy snap.

    I see the throttle tie-in!  Thank you.  You're so good to me!
    A 2-part hook!?  You dog me!
    Great show, Wolf.
    Thank you.
  2. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to mozart in Ducks to water?!   
    So there we were, Lins (my wife) and myself, doing a bit of gardening when along comes Mama Duck, calling loudly and receiving back many cheeps! Trouble was, her ducklings were the other side of our deer and rabbit-proof fencing, in amongst stinging nettles, brambles and much other dense undergrowth. I climbed over the fencing and set about re-uniting Mama and babies, handing each one carefully to Lins. Mama sensibly took them straight onto the pond.....duck to water comes to mind.  Long story short: 3 hours later we had found 8 and Mama gradually stopped calling, but we thought one was still missing. Despite all our best endeavours we never found it.  Later in the afternoon the duck parade marched off to the lakes next door. Entertaining, worrying, rather sad but delightful to see all the babies. Enjoy!

    Not easy for a day old duckling to get through.....nor for a 72 year old to find them!


    Warm and drowsy!

  3. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Nic C.D. in Quick build Revell Fw-190 A8/R2 Rammjäger   
    I keep putting off the work on the Harrier II I'm building, so I built Revell's very nice Rammjäger. It isn't completely done (I'm waiting for some seatbelts and easy wire for the antenna I've ordered), but wanted it to show here already. It is built out-of-box, except I riveted the kit. Took me about 6 days to build it.

    Decals are also from the box and I have to say; some of the best I've used! Very impressive!

    In all, there are 4 canopies in the kit, This is the 'open' one with the armour side windows. This kit is ideal for when you like to build a weathered kit!

    The instructions mention the camouflage to be RLM 74/82 over RLM 76, but it is RLM 74/75 over 76. Here's the starboard side:

    And the port side:

    And just one more on the field:

    This is a great kit for a very reasonable price and I will surely build another one of the rammjägers. I have an F8 in the stash, maybe I'll give that one a go! However, I can't keep putting off finishing that Harrier, so that'll probably be the next one I'll post here.
    I hope you like the result of this A8/R2! Keep building, you all!
  4. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    I pushed on and finished the model after getting sick of moving it out of the way to work on other stuff! 
    The big challenge in this build was getting the FOD covers and bungs right. I felt that these were required to make the model ‘pop’ with its fairly boring grey scheme. From the time that I saw pics of the 3sqn aircraft with these in, it had to be done. I made up a four part mask to paint the exhaust bung. I attached the Aires vinyl remove before flight tags and matted them with some flat clear.

    There is a thin dark yellow line around the cross which I hand painted that has been blown out by the photo and can’t be seen,  it I am pretty happy happy with how these turned out.

    some pics of the completed model




    In its new home in my ‘mostly Aussie’ cabinet.

  5. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Long time since the last update. I put this kit aside to concentrate on getting both my OV-10A and F-100D finished.  Now that they were done, I have done some more work. I remastered the intake bungs and added a lot more depth to them, also designing a small paint mask to enable me to paint the 3 SQN logo on them. I am not usually a fan of intake/exhaust covers but in this case, with a relatively boring paint scheme, they are essential to make the model pop.


    The ejection seat was the next area that I wanted to change. The kit one is OK, but differed from the excellent walk around photos of a seat that my good mate Peter took. 
    I removed the back rest and made a new one from plastic card that I shaped and installed along with some Tamiya two part putty to make the large fairing behind it. I stippled Mr Surfacer over all of the cushion surfaces to give them texture, and then ditched the kit photo etch belts, cutting off the buckles and combining them with thin aluminium strip. I dressed the shoulder straps, hanging them behind the head rest as per some reference photos that I found.

    The painted seat. Still have a few small placards to do. The black strips of the pull handle were done with the thin strip decal stripe that separates schemes on most Wingnut Wings kits. I painted the cushions with a Tamiya NATO black.

    How it looks now. Sorta want to get this off my bench!

  6. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Hi Peter,
    I will check it out.
    I painted the model using MRP camouflage grey, then used the MRP Have Glass flat clear which has very small reflective chips in it. I then clear glossed the model using SMS clear and applied the decals.
    I used the Ronin graphics 3 SQN decal sheet for the tail eagles and the serial numbers but elected to use the kit stencil data and roundels as they were a bit larger and more lighter.


    I made up some intake bungs, and the small bung that goes into the small intake above the right side engine intake. I made some resin copies of these. I will make these available for purchase once I rework the intake bungs a bit more.

    A small rope will be added to the bung.


  7. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Close examination of photos revealed a small change was required on the underside of the fuselage. Italeri had the same layout of panels on both sides of the fuselage whereas the photo of the RAAF aircraft showed a very different story.
    Here is the panel in question, a double up of what it looks like on the other side.

    The excellent photo of the underside reveals a different configuration in front of the APU exhaust, with raised detail and shapes. 

    I removed all of the raised detail and filled the panel lines. notice that I also continued a panel line through to the rear corner of the wheel well by scribing it along the raised panel that Italeri have in place.

    Using Studio, I traced the new panels required from the photo above and manipulated them to fit.

    I cut these from oramask to check for fit and did this a couple of times until I was happy.

    Once happy, I cut these on plastic card.

    I had marked the position of each part when I had the Oramask parts in place. This enabled me to glue the plastic card parts in place with Tamiya Extra fine.

  8. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Thanks mate. Coming up with solutions is my favourite part of the hobby and it keeps me interested.
    I have completed preliminary design work of the logo on the exhaust FOD cover. Using studio software I traced each component of the logo individually based upon colour and then modified each part to suit the way that I felt the machine would cut it best.
    Here is the enlarged design with all the elements together.

    I then shrank the design to size the diameter of the outer circle to 17mm. Each part was separated again and placed into its own mask area ready to try and paint this. The design is pushing the machine to its limits, and these elements will need some tweaking to ensure that it sprays well. Hopefully it works! My idea will be to spray the yellow and cream of the circle and shield, black outline of the design, yellow cross with its dark yellow outline, outer yellow 3, blue wings and inner 3, yellow outline of the eagle wings and head and and then finally the white Southern Cross stars.

  9. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Cheers guys.
    More on the exhaust bung later. 
    The kit features some interesting engineering from Italeri, pretty standard stuff from them considering their previous Mirage kits. Rather than consign the kit shelf of doom as being ‘unbuildable’, I like to use these things to challenge myself to come up with interesting ways to fix them.
    The bottom of the wing features some geometric shapes, I guess these are covering the hard points. Italeri placed the large one right next to the join, making the wig join hard to fix. If the kit was more precise, it would be too much of a problem but it is a little poor in this area and needs some work even if the shape wasnt there in there in the first  place. There is also a small shape that should be inboard of the larger shape which has been missed. Here is the bottom of the wing with the larger shape removed, and the join has been filled and smoothed. I have marked with a pencil where the old shape was.

    Here is a screenshot of a high res photo of the area concerned (thanks Mark) imported to Sillhouette studio with the shapes that I wanted to cut traced in red.


    Some .2mm plastic card was used In my cutter to form the new shapes. I didn’t cut all the way through, rather snapping these shapes out.

    Applied to the model with Tamiya extra fine.


  10. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    Some more work on the FOD cover. Due to the complexity of the mask that I will make for spraying the 3 SQN logo, I wanted to have a few covers ready to practice in case I stuff it up. The cover is quite simple and lent itself well to being copied using a simple Pinkysil mould. No degassing or pressurisation here. Just make up a box around the part, mix your 2 part silicone in equal parts by weight and slowly pour it over the part. As can be seen, there are a few bubbles that have risen to the surface of the mould but as long as they are there and not around the part, then there won’t be any problems.

    The first cast in resin inserted into the exhaust. I have made a few copies for later use. The handles will go on once I have painted the logo.

    I am reasonably happy! Everything looks a lot better in resin.

  11. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    The nose cone is quite a nice fit, which is a change for Italeri considering the rather poor effort on their Mirage kits.

    Close scrutiny of walk around pics reveals that there is no panel line all the way around the nose. There is a panel on the top and bottom though but the rest is the raised areas as per most of the kit. I masked and sprayed the area with spray primer, leaving the panel lines on top depict the panel.

    Blended in.

    I noticed a small raised panel aft of the APU exhaust which I thought may be good to incorporate.
    Here is the bare area of the kit.

    I cut a small square of plastic card in the rough size required

    cut to the shape required and glued in place.

  12. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    I have a few on the go at the moment and am using this model as a break from my primary model that I am working on, the Boomerang. With the  Australian International air show about to start, it will provide me with many photos of our new F-35’s in action. So I will put those into good use here. I started this model when it first came out and quickly put it aside when I realised that there was a bit of work to be done on the exhaust, as it was way too small fitted to the fuselage. After a bit of a think, Here is how I fixed it.
    Here is the exhaust how Italeri intended, like throwing a sausage roll down a hallway.

    I decided to fix this two ways. Firstly, I cut a line in between every second  exhaust petal, about halfway down the front (where it meets the fuselage) of the part. I then forced lengths of plastic card into the lines, spreading the front of the exhaust apart. This increased the diameter of the exhaust by approx 2 mm but kept the exit of the exhaust the same. There is still a bit of sanding and tidying up to do here but you can see the white plastic card to give you an idea of how I have executed this.

    Next, I removed a wedge shaped piece from the rear of the fuselage where the exhaust fits into. I removed the centre point and half of each point next to it. Terminating the wedge close to the front of that part.

    I glued and clamped the part together, shrinking it. I made up a new point with some plastic card.

    The lost raised detail was masked and built up again using spray primer.


    fixed! Compared to the first pic, this area is way better.

  13. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in RAAF F-35 FINISHED.   
    I plan to paint this model in the newer all over grey scheme with Three Squadron markings. It will make for a reasonably boring jet as I don’t plan on having anything hanging off it yet in the way of ordnance. My good mate Peter sent me some excellent clear photos that he took of an F-35 parked at the Australian International Airshow held recently. This jet had really cool exhaust and intake bungs installed with colourful 3 SQN  logos painted on them and they will add a great splash of colour to the jet. Now, I dont usually like putting these things on my models as any good jet modeller will go the hard yards to sort out intakes and exhausts which are usually amongst the hardest part of a jet model. I reckon it is a way of chickening out of that part of the build but in this case I will make an exception.
    Here are the pics (with permission from Peter, thanks mate!)


    I am am not aware of the existence of the bungs in this scale so have set about creating my own. Due to my experience gained with the nose art on my Boomerang build, I will be creating spray masks for the logos painted on them.
    I cut out a circle of thick plastic card that fit into the exhaust pipe.

    A suitable quantity of Tamiya epoxy putty was mixed to form the area which I would be sculpting

    The putty was stuck to the plastic circle and shaped to fit it, then smoothed over with Mr thinner painted on with a brush. Not sure why the scissors are making an appearance here.

    I used various tools to sculpt the ripples in the surface of the bung and scribed a line around its edge as per the pics.

    Primed, smoothed, primed again......


    Should look great painted. I will add the pull handles after this process.

  14. Like
    dodgem37 got a reaction from Starfighter in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A   
    That is some nice modelling, Wolf.  You must have a Parts Catalog.
    'RB Productions rivet wheel was very instrumental in accomplishing that.'
    Which did you use?  What do you think of the RB tools' spacing and imprint tie-in to Tamiyas riveting?
    The detail on those flaps are incredible.
    I know drilling that .009 hole for 2 lb mono was testy.  Out of alignment, a little too much pressure, not to mention the angles you had to drill.  That's an easy snap.

    I see the throttle tie-in!  Thank you.  You're so good to me!
    A 2-part hook!?  You dog me!
    Great show, Wolf.
    Thank you.
  15. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Daniel Leduc in Iranian F-4D 3-6712, 71st TFS, Hor September 1980   
    Hey guys,
    just a quick show to let you know that this one is still on and almost done.
    Decided to used Ultra-Matt Lucky varnish from Mig for my final coat, very easy to use but, Oh boy.... it's way too flat..
    it almost look like a tank.... 
    Here some picture with different lighting.....,they were never that flat in real life...
    an even finish and very smooth but way too flat.



    So now I'm waiting the other varnish I ordered from Mig and tone up that finish..... 
    and these days with that Covid, delivery is a PITA, and seems to takes forever.
    See you soon with more, hope you like and have fun.
  16. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10   
    Thanks guys!  Not the usual approach, especially having purchased both conversion sets.  At least I'll be able to utilize components from both sets.
    The wing insert panel has been dealt with.  Looks a mess now but it should be work out nicely under a coat of paint.

    Now I'm going to take a look at the Henri Daehne resin prop.  This one is almost identical to the Ta152H prop that I just used except the prop mount is geared toward the Hasegawa D-9 kit.  Surprisingly, there is a part missing... the backing washer that aligns the prop shaft from behind the radiator face is missing.  Luckily, I have a bunch of HD D-9 props so I fished the missing part from one of those.

    There is some removal of casting blocks to deal with but Mr. Daehne provides a fully detailed instruction sheets with exact dimensions which takes the guessing out of cleanup.

    The rounded blade tips are the distinguishing feature between the D-13 and the Ta152H.

    I double check the fit of the HD prop to the fuselage...

    Finally jumping over what's normally the first step of any build... the cockpit!  The Eagle Editions cockpit for the D-9 is molded in a light-colored resin.  This is not a plug-n-play set and will require some removals and shaving of the fuselage insides to make it fit.

    I have limited references on the D-13 cockpit and I'm not sure how accurate these references are.  But I went ahead and made some changes based on the photos found in Mr. Crandall's Dora Volume 2.
    The D-13 has a cannon firing through the spinner and the cannon breech supposedly intrudes into the cockpit between the rudder pedals.  I've never seen a photo of this breech but I think the center section of the instrument panel will hide it.  The Eagle Editions cockpit comes with a bomb-control panel that seems to sorta kinda of match the panel in the photo.

    The starboard console looks very similar to the console in the Ta152H.  Coincidentally, I have the kit pieces for both consoles from the Ta152H build since I used the RB Productions photo etch replacements.  It's a pretty easy grafting job to put the Ta152H panel onto the D-9 cockpit.

    The port console is close enough to keep as is.

    Now that the D-13 changes to the cockpit have been mapped out, I'll have to start cutting up the kit fuselage to make it all fit.
  17. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to ericg in Kittyhawk OV-10A Bronco 6 JUNE 1970 SQN LDR Graham Neil RAAF.   
    Here is my 1/32 Kittyhawk OV-10A that I completed late last year.
    This model was built to represent the aircraft that Squadron Leader Graham Neil and Flight Lieutenant Ken Semmler flew during the Vietnam war on the 6 JUNE 1970. Both of these men were pilots in the Royal Australian Air Force and were part of the group of 36 that served as FACs under the USAF during the conflict. Graham was awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross for his conduct as a Forward Air Controller during this mission. I haven't had the chance to show Graham the completed model yet due to Covid19, but I was able to show him the partially completed model during its construction.
    The model.
    Airscale instrument decals.
    Master Pitot tube
    AoA decals
    Reskit wheels
    AMS ejection seats
    Eduard exterior photo etch
    Aerobonus Helmet with hand painted Roo.
    Archer raised rivet detail added to forward fuselage
    Modifications/Scratch built items:
    Raised cowl fasteners replaced with engraved ones.
    5 x fuel caps scratch built.
    Scribed the missing fuel panel on the centre of the top wing.
    Scratch built the missing lower left access step.
    Scratch built bomb beam inside centre pylon.
    Added small bolts to front of spinners.
    Scratch built cockpit access ladder.
    Scratch built forward air vent in front of the windscreen.
    Scratch built the air vent under observers canopy and tops of both crew canopies.
    Added lots of wiring inside the cockpit.
    Scratch built the throttle and pitch levers.
    Scratch built canopy actuator and stay mechanisms.
    Scratch built the canopy window locking mechanisms x 4.
    Scratchbuilt bulkhead and armour plate behind pilots seat.
    Added brake lines.
    Faired in pitot tube to the nose cone.
    Various antenna and aerial wire.
    Scratch built stall warning tab outer right wing.
    A few other things I have forgotten.

    The actual aircraft after the mission mentioned above:

  18. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to chrish in Trumpeter Bf 109 G-6 Late-Out of the box...ish   
    Trumpeters 109 G-6 (late) with the kits decals, built from the box but with "spare parts" from a destroyed (new release) Revell Bf 109G-10 and Aims resin spinner, surplus from a 110-G conversion
    I only built enough of the included engine in the kit to have someplace to put the exhaust outlets, I thought it would also need the engine to mount the prop to...no, the prop mounts to the spinner back plate, the back plate mounts to the glycol tank and the tank mounts to the fuselage...I wonder if Trumpeter thought the tank rotates with the prop?
    So anyway, it has the Revell G-10 prop blades fitted to Trumpeter prop hub and Aims 110 spinner (with appropriate cannon hole drilled) slipped over and glued on (perfect fit) as well as Revell G-10 wheels/tires elevators, rudder, radiator outflow flaps and super charger intake the radio mast as well as a couple of bits in the office. The swastika is the only aftermarket decal.
    Some decals did silver, some are upside down...gotta lay off the rum!

    striving for mediocrity
    Thanks for looking
  19. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Pete Fleischmann in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35   
    Hey all!
    more progress-
    Thanks for for stopping by!
  20. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10   
    Just for reference, here are the cross-sections of the D-13 that indicate that the bulge was only evident along the top edge and not the bottom as depicted in the GM resin conversion...

    I thinned the edges of the cowling flaps.  Again, the D-13 is slightly different than the D-9 in that ALL of the cowling flaps are extendable.  On the D-9, there is a fixed cowling flap on the starboard side.

    I cut the fixed flap off and replaced it with a piece of brass sheet.

    I COULD replace ALL of the flaps with brass sheeting but I elected not to.  As long as the trailing edges are thinned, I think the plastic flaps look fine.

    On my past D-9 builds, I erroneously assumed that the outline of the wing insert piece were along panel lines but this is incorrect.

    So after I glued the insert pieces into place, I filled the non-panel line joints with black CA glue.

  21. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10   
    Time to inspect a new aftermarket item.  This is the Aires Wheel Well set for the 190D.  Aires casts some of the most intricate resin bits that I've run across and this one is no exception.  The wiring detail is almost TOO fine.

    Since the Hasegawa wheel wells are separate inserts, it should be a plug-n-play replacement and there shouldn't be any messy removals to deal with besides removing some hefty casting bases.  Note that the Hasegawa wheel wells has almost all of the details as the Aires parts but they are not as finely rendered.  So the deficiency is not one of omission but execution, which may be relevant.

    The kit wheel well insert is integral to a spar that helps maintain the correct spacing between the upper and lower wing parts.  Grafting the spar into place with the Aires wheel well parts should not be an issue.

    When I place one of the Aires wheel wells into place, I start to notice some issues.  With the skinny end of the Aires part butted up directly against the landing gear base, the holes for the wing guns do not line up correctly.  And the wide end of the part doesn't reach the end of the wing part like the kit piece does.  As if the Aires part is undersized.

    The three major components of the Aires set fit positively with one another so I temporarily glued them together using CA glue.

    And then took measurements using a Micrometer.

    Centering the Aires wheel well onto the wing bottom reveals the gap caused by the undersized wheel well, which is actually not a huge issue in my book.  I'm more worried about the alignment of the wing gun holes.

    The Aires wheel well parts are definitely undersized.  I COULD get them to work, if I wanted to.  But I'm thinking that the enhancement in detail is not worth the effort.  I also have this...

    which could be used to spice up the Hasegawa wheel well a little.  I'll think about it.
    The first step to establish the fuselage bulge has been taken.  Instead of randomly slathering some putty, I want to use sheet styrene as a form to help establish some consistency.

  22. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Miloslav1956 in FW 190D-11 & D-13 Hasegawa & Real Model   
    Today update.






  23. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Miloslav1956 in FW 190D-11 & D-13 Hasegawa & Real Model   
    Today  progress




  24. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Miloslav1956 in FW 190D-11 & D-13 Hasegawa & Real Model   
    Ready for riveting.




  25. Like
    dodgem37 reacted to Miloslav1956 in FW 190D-11 & D-13 Hasegawa & Real Model   
    D-13 continues.
    Weekend update.




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