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dodgem37

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Everything posted by dodgem37

  1. I LOVE that! Into the Wild Blue Yonder! Sincerely, Mark
  2. Good God, I reckin! What a fantastic result! To say I am amazed, and what you are doing is amazing is an understatement. What a knock-out! Do it, bro! When my AC broke down the other week I spent a lot of time in the basement also. Besides being nice and cool down there, my man cave is there as well. Oh, I almost forgot, as I was so blinded by the light! Thank you for the explanation. Sincerely, Mark
  3. Dang, Johan! How did I miss this post? Beautiful stuff. I really like the scheme you've chosen. I'm looking forward to following this build. Sincerely, Mark
  4. Brian, The reflective quality you've obtained is amazing. I have a question about the painting. Why was the model painted prior to foiling? Does foil not accept paint as readily as it accepts decals? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark
  5. Dave, I just went thru the entire thread to refresh my memory, and have to say doing so was a very joyful experience. I thoroughly enjoyed your build. Each new post seemed to me to be more amazing than the previous. The detail and scratching was really nice to behold. Being fond of the RAF schemes, I already liked what you have done, but then to have invasion stripes as an accent is just over the top. To my eyes, a very good show. Many thanks. Sincerely, Mark
  6. Superb, Ralph. It is always a pleasure to see your work. Sincerely, Mark
  7. Dynomite! I had been wondering as to how to scratch twin 1/24 scale Vickers K's for a Hasegawa conversion project of an USA Army Jeep into an SAS Jeep. Now I know! Great job, and thanks! Sincerely, Mark
  8. I like that rotor. Not to mention everything else you've been doing. Can/do the blades rotate along the flat piece of brass? Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Mark
  9. Wow! Is right. What a marvelous job of painting. Sincerely, Mark
  10. I think earlier in this thread I had mentioned that I had stalled out on a Wild Sau G-14. Well, I decided to fit the canopy onto the maiden so she wouldn't feel forgotten. Overall view. I need to do some clean-up painting where the tape is. When I'm at a similar point with the Hartmann build, I will continue this exercise. I made the stencils for the markings. From the front. My apologies for the blurriness. A liitle from the port side. I need to repair that plexiglas to framing attachment point. More from the port side. The starboard side of the canopy base framing needs to be extended a minimum of 1 mm so it can set onto the canopy railing a little more securely. From the rear. Here it is much easier to see the headrest to frame attachment points. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark
  11. Thank you, Jerry. Things are back to a relatively normal state now. At least we have AC, which is good. Thank you as well, Don. Well, let me see if I can do this without embarrassing myself further by double posting, AGAIN! AGAIN! For as laborous as the ETC rack felt, that is how easy the canopy fell into place. This is the Squadron Shop Late G-6/G-14, K-4 vac. I guess I give it about an .040 thickness. Plenty sturdy to work with, hard to cut, and a little time consuming to sand. But for me, worth the time and effort. Here the construction is in its mock-up stage. I have already dipped the unit in future and let it dry. Since I am using super glue to glue the parts together I decided to tape the inside area I would not want affected by super glue fogging. I didn't want to take a chance. Most of the parts are taped together but there are some pieces that are super glued. In a post on Jerry's P-38 build he mentioned casting a canopy in clear resin. That got me to thinking. But that is for another time. I modified the armored headrest, removing the tri-angular protrusion along the bottom that would set into the kit canopy. In this and the last pic you may notice a little square of white plastic attached to the framing, just in front of the headrest. This represents a plexiglas to frame attachment point. The headrest to bottom framing is an angle piece of .005 strip. It's hard to see in the previous and this pic but I located the attachment point onto the headrest and the framing for a bridge connection. More to follow.
  12. Thank you kindly, Geoff. Sincerely, Mark
  13. I love that wing! What a show! Sincerely, Mark
  14. High and Tight! Love that light bulb. I like how you've got that narrow ridge around the wheel impression. Remarkable stuff you've got going on there, Jerry, in construction, painting, and weathering. Sincerely, Mark
  15. Here's the deal. Although I love the P-51 and all of it's variants, I am a P-51 ignoramus. I just can't keep the P-51 straight. I know it's been written about a thousand times the wings were painted, or something, to retain the laminar flow, or something. Now, after seeing this latest post of Chris', which, believe me I think is TOPS!, it leads me to this question: Would the paint, or whatever was put on the wings to help retain the laminar flow, wear off at the wing root from the shuffling and scuffing shoes, and such, revealing the natural metal wing panels beneath, and if the product was gloss in its application, turn matte from wear? Or, was the product so durable that it wouldn't wear off but would have to be removed with a solvent, or something? Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Mark
  16. 'Thanks very much again Mark!' Roger that, Phil. My pleasure. I'm just glad I wasn't WRONG! 'Great stuff Mark, love what you are doing with this build.' Thank you, Vaughn. But this is Phil's build. Sincerely, Mark
  17. Pete, You are one Jeti-meister! Excellent work. Sincerely, Mark
  18. Yeow! Look at you! Love those rudder straps. Sincerely, Mark
  19. Ooooh. Sorry for the double post. My internet connection bombed as I struck Reply and I didn't think it went thru, so after I fixed it I hit 'Reply' again. Sorry about that! Sincerely, Mark
  20. Phil, I did a little research and have come up with this. This is what is given. You'll notice that aft of the 2 dangling elements is a 'D' shaped ring with a hole in it. This is probably the rear starboard side attachment ring. I summize the rear left is behind the piping, which are the fuel/air relief lines. The next 'D' shaped shadow, after the tubing, is probably the front starboard attachment point, and the front port is before the square shadow. I think the square shadow is a background object as it is in alignment with other background shadows. Courtesy of the 109 Lair. This is what I interpret as remaining from the belly in. The 4 'D' attachment rings (although only 3 are shown here) and the fuel/air relief lines. Although hardly noticeable here, there are 4 small rectangles onto which the 'D' rings would be set. The fuel/air relief line locations are more noticeable. If I may, the 2 dimples to either side of the rectangular cut-out are relief tubes. They can either have a hole drilled into them or be drilled out and have wire insulation, or some other tubing, stuck into them. The holes for the fairing can be filled. I would not be offended if others post what they consider alternative theories. I hope this is helpful. Sincerely, Mark
  21. Phil, I did a little research and have come up with this. This is what is given. You'll notice that aft of the 2 dangling elements is a 'D' shaped ring with a hole in it. This is probably the rear starboard side attachment ring. I summize the rear left is behind the piping, which are the fuel/air relief lines. The next 'D' shaped shadow, after the tubing, is probably the front starboard attachment point, and the front port is before the square shadow. I think the square shadow is a background object as it is in alignment with other background shadows. Courtesy of the 109 Lair. This is what I interpret as remaining from the belly in. The 4 'D' attachment rings (although only 3 are shown here) and the fuel/air relief lines. Although hardly noticeable here, there are 4 small rectangles onto which the 'D' rings would be set. The fuel/air relief line locations are more noticeable. If I may, the 2 dimples to either side of the rectangular cut-out are relief tubes. They can either have a hole drilled into them or be drilled out and have wire insulation, or some other tubing, stuck into them. The holes for the fairing can be filled. I would not be offended if others post what they consider alternative theories. I hope this is helpful. Sincerely, Mark
  22. Beautiful work there, Chris. Sincerely, Mark
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