dodgem37

This is the reason I get up in the morning. To learn something new every day. Very interesting, Edgar. Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

Roger that. Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

Love the one for the Gunship. No lie! Sincerely, Mark

A scheme you don't see every day. Good show. Sincerely, Mark

Very nice overall technique with effective results. I like the grid pattern you've created. I'm glad to see you back again and posting. Sincerely, Mark

Phil, I just scoped the 109lair and their drawing of an F-4Trop indicates the top does slide open, that there are two parallel lines on the top, similar to the sides. But the meaning to my question here is to find out if you scribed the inside and outside of the side panels to indicate sliding windows. I was just wondering, that's all. Sincerely, Mark

Much obliged, Peter. I appreciate your comment. Sincerely, Mark

Did you scribe the center section of the canopy on the inside and outside? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

I think it needs to be colourful Mark, Its a pretty deep dark place once closed up. It needs colour to bring out the details especially in scale. I have been thinking about the color issue. What I had done was tint the 66 with white (80%RLM66 + 20% white) and not the detail colors. So the detail colors are 100% saturated colors, which makes them 20% brighter than they should be as they relate to ground. I should have tinted them 20% as well so the value relationship would have been constant throughout, but I wasn't thinking. I'll need to remember this for the K-4 build. I know the problem you are having with various hatches. On my Trumpy I have filled and re-opened one hatch at least twice. Eventually I just got the plan and spent a good hour filling in the right ones. But then another plan will show different! I have found that it is not only the hatches. It's also panel lines and rivets. I used 3 or 4 references for panel lines. I'm sure, I suppose, each is correct in their own right, but whom does one follow? After I had finished panelling using, I think the 109Lair drawing, I noticed in my Shiffer book, when I was researching something else, a drawing of a K-4 wing. The body copy stated the G-14 and K-4 panelling is the same, which did not match the Lair drawing, but did match the Hasegawa Painting and Decal drawing. Go figure. I don't recall offhand if the Trumpy kit indicates rivets, or not. But I had considered indicating rivets when I couldn't find 2 drawings that matched. It seemed to me that one drawing didn't make sense as it related to structure. I may not know what the underlying structural configuration of the wing is but I have designed enough structures and worked enough with Structural Engineers to have an understanding of layout. But this one I couldn't figure out. Maybe it was just the drawing. Anyway which way, it was confusing and time consuming, and leading to dropping the subject and moving on. Great work mate as always! Thank you. Your trifecta is most impressive. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

That is a lot of bending work in a very tight space. You did a good job. Sincerely, Mark

Those are made up beautifully, Jan. Sincerely, Mark

Some nice constuction and painting going on here, Alberto. Sincerely, Mark

Fantastic 'comin' at cha' computer generated imagery. I wasn't planning to purchase one, but that box top art is so far beyond in dynamics from what others are producing that I am strongly reconsidering. Those guys deserve big kudos for their box top art. Does it come poster size? Sincerely, Mark

I've been filling, sanding and scribing this week. Reference courtesy of the 109Lair. I filled some of the existing gun trough panel lines and scribed new ones based upon the drawings found on the 109Lair for the G-14. I 'scale thicknessed' the top of the gun barrel opening. In addition, I scribed the forward line of the bonnet, for lack of a better term, to match up with the separation line between the gun trough part and the fuselage parts. I ran some liquid weld along the new scribing to smooth things out a bit, after I had cleaned them. I'm waiting for some of the areas to solidify before I very fine sand them. I filled in the handholds in front of the windscreen, which are yet to be finished. Correcting a boo-boo. Earlier on I had filled these two hatches. Although the 109Lair drawings for the G-14 show only the top hatch in existance, the Hasegawa painting and decal guide show both. Since this aircraft has the Methonal-Wasser (MW) boost, the lower one should also be shown. The top one I was able to clean out. The lower one I needed to fill and scribe. The fasteners for each were made with a beading tool. Courtesy of Thierry Laurent, Mike Maben & Charles Metz from their G-14 Tweaks List, I think. I thought I had read in their G-14 Tweaks List the gondolla, gondolla gun ammunition hatch, rocket launcher attachment location, and the oval hatch should be removed for aircraft without such items. So, I did. I usually fill with Tamiya putty then after sanding, fill in whatever pockets there may be with primer paint pigment. The reason for the two-tone grey. I've yet to follow-up fill the bonnet area. Other side. The little strip at the wheel well pinged off into the ozone to keep the emergency canopy release handle company. Since the fuselage is glued together I thought I'd take a couple of pictures of the cockpit. I contained myself to only one per side this time. The seat and it's accompanying parts are just taped on. Blurry, I know. My apologies. It's very colorful, which is just how I like it. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark

My experience is that, Yes, it does. Sincerely, Mark

I concur with Jerry. This is shaping up quite nicely. Love that pipework on the oil tank. Your engine looks plenty busy. The canopy appears frosted. Have you not dipped it in future? If not, I recommend doing so before you super glue the frame onto it. CA and its vapors will cloud clear plastic and is nigh impossible to remove. Sincerely, Mark

Smart solution for that infill, Phill. Also very wise solution for rounding the wheel opening, as well as using a backplate support. Good show. Sincerely, Mark

I have read an article that includes the use of wrapping tissue as tarps. The kind of tissue one puts in 'present' bags, or finds in shirt boxes. It's not as fiberous as tissue paper, is much sturdier, and can be folded nicely. Sincerely, Mark

Nice detail work, Phil. Sincerely, Mark

Dude! I love those tiny bits!! Sincerely, Mark

Brenden, Whatever you use to remove the decals, I recommend to NOT use a decal and paint remover solution. These solutions, and I've tried multiple manufacturers using a variety of solution volumes, from minimum to maximum, have always ended with the same results for me, crazing and decomposing the plastic. If you can use Sol to soften and an x-acto blade to peel them off that would be good. Should the decal break, I have picked them off with an x-cato blade while still moist and have also waited for them to dry and gently applied a piece of tape rolled and fastened upon itself to make a circle to pull them off. I use MM dull cote and thin it 1:1 with MM laquer thinner. I don't know if any laquer thinner will do. Usually another manufacturers product will allow for an initial use. But once the pigments of the product has settled from the medium and thinner, the pigment will have a tendancy to coagulate. Tho may be able to be mixed for the next use. Witness Humbrol paint and MM thinner. So try to use complementary products. Hope this helps. Sincerely, Mark

You are doing such a wonderful job on this aircraft. Your results are envious. Sincerely, Mark

Nice detail work, Matt. Love that wasp design. Sincerely, Mark

Check that out. Love all of that pipework on the bulkhead. Good show, Oliver. Sincerely, Mark

Very nice, Jerry. Sincerely, Mark