dodgem37
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Everything posted by dodgem37
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Love that angle of attack. Sincerely, Mark
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Too cool, Matt. Holiday Cheers! Sincerely, Mark
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Great work, as always, Loic. I haven't been posting very much, but I have been looking in. Holiday Cheers! Sincerely, Mark
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A little more work is needed to off-center the pin. I extended the opposite end of the pin just in case some play was needed for a good fit. It can be trimmed as needed. This is the hanger base that would be connected to the tube. The hanger, which could be anything from wire twisted around a drill bit, to something made here, goes into the hole. It too is a little long to allow for trim. This is the hook mounting base. It will mount directly onto the aircraft. The hook. 2mm outside diameter modified circle. It would be centrally located on the base above. The anti-sway brace. I made it a little long on both ends. Maybe with a little trimming it can be used for both a '109 and '190. The tube. It has just occurred to me that the tube can be cut in half length-wise and the ends blocked off to make it easier to cast. I'm still plugging away on the rocket. If this escapade works out and materializes, then thru simple multiplication 1/24th scale rockets could be made as well. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
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Plodding along with the Werfer Granate. A sketch of the part was made, then dimensions were taken off of the Lion Roar part. The renderings are close enough. The Lion Roar part. This is the latch that keeps the rocket from sliding out of the back, I guess. This is my rendering of it. Lion Roar part. The ignition wire from the aircraft would enter the top. The pin enters a hole in the 'divider plate'. Lion Roar part. This part combines with the above part. The pin enters the opposite side of the hole from the above part in the 'divider plate'. The semi-circular ignition rod enters the top. My take. The ignition rod enters the bottom. The wire to the aircraft enters the top. The base. I made a cut-out so it would be easier to sit the 'ignitor'. Lion Roar part. What I call the ignition rod. More in a minute.
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Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945
dodgem37 replied to dodgem37's topic in Clear the Shelf of Doom Again
No, Richard, I haven't done any additional work. I'm just tired of looking at, working on, and thinking about it. My heart just isn't in it right now. The reason I've switched to the Werfer Granate. Thank you, Mike. I try to do the best I can. Sincerely, Mark -
Will you just stop that already! You even made a tinker toy stand. Great stuff, Richard. Just great. Love every update. Be safe as well. Sincerely, Mark
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My apologies for not responding sooner. I've been travelling to attend my daughters college graduation, packing up her apartment, and travelliing back. Thank you, Derek. The Rocket is 1260mm long. In 1/32nd it scales to 39.375mm. I'm making it 39.5mm. Thank you, Maru. This is only the beginning! No worries, Ray. Spendy is right. I'm not going to use the Lion Roar set on a model, but I am using it as a reference. The tube and rocket are too small for 1/32nd scale. But the size of the injection molded details is good. I digital caliper measured the Lion Roar rocket and it is 35.9mm high x 5.9mm in diameter at its widest point (out of 36 x 6), with the tube at 7.46mm outside diameter x 37.48mm long (out of 7.5 x 37.5). In 1/32 scale the rocket would be 39.5mm high x 6.875 (7mm) at its widest point, and the tube would be 40.625 (40.5mm). I can't find a tube diameter dimension other than two that states the tube diameter is 2100mm, and we know that's not so because the rocket base diameter is 2140mm and the location where the war head screws into the propellant body flares out. So I'm going to make up the tube diameter to fit the rocket with rails. If I wanted a one-off, I could cast and use a modified Lion Roar rocket because the diameter would fit a modified 5/16" (8mm) brass tube, but I would need to add to the height. But that is not my aim right now. The rocket diameter is about 1/2mm too small. The Lion Roar rails are nice but would be too short, unless they were split. Also, the tube has rings around the outside. The ring is for the location of the 'divider plate'. See below. It's upside down, my apologies. A US standard brass tube outside diameter is 5/16" (8mm, .31") with a .014 wall, making the inside diameter = .282. If I can get the wall lathed or lathe the wall to .007 I'll be happy, making the new inside diameter .296 . 1/2mm rail height (.019", make it .020", or .040" to center the rocket in the tube, and that leaves a .256 (or 6-1/2mm+-) for a maximum rocket diameter. The diameter is 1/2mm too small, but I'll keep this method in mind. I can either lathe everything, which would mean I would need to buy a lathe, or I can draw everything up on a program I already have, work out the printing tolerances with the printer, and modify the drawings so the end result would fit together. Which is my direction now. But whatever I do, I just want to be able to solve this problem as accurately as I can with the means at my disposal, and as affordably as I can. This project can be done, as exhibited by Lion Roar's Nebelwerfer and Jerry's earlier rendition, but it will need to be done as a multi-media kit, again, as exhibited by Lion Roar's Nebelwerfer, because to try to resin cast this tube will be extremely difficult. That leaves either latheing tubes or 3D printing tubes. A determination needs to be made as to which is the more affordable. As backup, I've called a local high school that has a metal shop to speak to the teacher, and am awaiting a return call. I would like to get a high school student to turn some tubes so I don't have to buy a lathe, to cut down costs, otherwise I'll contact a pro shop and hear what they have to say. All of the other stuff can be scratchbuilt and resin cast and made from solder, or wire. Right now I'm hoping to stay away from PE. If the printed rails don't pass muster I'll have to draw up and make the rails in PE. But I'll work on that when the time comes. There's alot to do in the meantime. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
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My apologies for taking so long to respond, Frank. I have not been ignoring you or your contribution. I bet at least half of the views are from me looking at your work! What you have done is remarkable. I haven't found that sweet spot necessary to work in brass. Let alone solder it! But it is something I should include in my modelling vocabulary. But brass and I seem to be like oil and water. A difficult mix. After this, that, and the other thing, I've decided to see if I can 3D CAD this thing with a free, and limited, program, then have the stuff printed. This is a scan of a print. I haven't used this program in over 3 years. It needs fine tuning, but it's coming back to me. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
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Fantastic stuff, TaffyMan. Just fantastic. Great show! Sincerely, Mark
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From our brethren at the ARC: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/101-200/tnt177-tnt-weathering-Rapasi/00.shtm Sincerely, Mark
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Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945
dodgem37 replied to dodgem37's topic in Clear the Shelf of Doom Again
Thank you, Brewer. I'll work up another set of wheels and if they pass the test I'll see if anyone is interested in selling them. Appreciate your comment, Jerry. Thank you, Tomek. The finish is a LOT closer than not. And am I glad of that! But the finish still will be well after the New Year. Thank you, Marek. Thank you, Loic. Well, this is going to be my last posting on this for a while. I am really tired of looking at this thing. I need to do some scratchbuilding to take my mind off of all of this painting as it had become a real push for me to get to this point. I've been thinking about the next phase of the Werfer Granate 21's to change my mind. I had done some research into brass tube to see if I could locate some .007 wall thickness tube but came up short, so it looks like I'll use .005 sheet styrene for the next phase. I'm hoping it'll work out fine. After the last posting I really laid on the future. I wanted to create a protective exo-skeleton. The plastic was cracking and flaking and chipping and I just wanted to try to 'hold it together with a thick layer of clear acrylic'. Also, if I messed up the mottles I wanted to be able to sand them off without messing up the base camo scheme. In the Hartmann build I had made outlines of the mottles and then filled them in. I had done the same thing on this one as well, and in the process I made too many. So I decided to subtract some of them by over-painting them with RLM76, and, removing others so I could refine their new shape. I outlined all of them but two, of which I decided to make by moving the airbrush back and forth or up and down resulting in tight squiggles. Which is what you've see above. So, I overpainted everything yet again, leaving a faint impression so I would know their location, and squiggled new mottles. Which, when done this way create a nice texture within the mottle. This of course necessitated softening the demarcation line to match the squiggles, which I did. Good, bad, or indifferent, this is it. I do like the contrast between the ragged edge mottles/demarcation line and the markings, tho. Tail End Charlie. I left off the lower radiator flaps. The small blue disc to the right of the right Balkencruz is a decal for the oxygen bottle location, I think. I forgot to scribe a circle for it's location. Luckily it's a solid disc and one would never know a hatch was supposed to be there unless someone said something. OOPS! Thank you, ajmac. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark -
Kevin, unfortuneately, they are there. Great stuff, Bryan. I only wish I could help. Sincerely, Mark
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Sorry to hear about the wheel well. That is really good work on adifficult condition. Sincerely, Mark
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So the Australiens are the ones to blame? Not the Americans, right? Sincerely, Mark
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If I haven't said it already, I'm saying it now, Jerry you are a monster. Sincerely, Mark
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If I weren't mired down in a 109 I'd be in the Mustang Build. Maybe I should put the 109 aside and start a Mustang. The problem is I would never finish in time. Sincerely, Mark
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Fantastic. A great job all around on a major effort. Sincerely, Mark
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Great. Just great. I love that twisted wire effect. It adds a really nice textural contrast to the untwisted lines. Sincerely, Mark
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Damn! Nice coverage. Sincerely, Mark
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I'm going to get in on the ground level and suggest 'Small Combatants', 'Theatre of Operations' or one that would include a LOT of aircraft 'Desert War: WWII to the Present'. Sincerely, Mark
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Fantastic! Sincerely, Mark
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Far out! Sincerely, Mark
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Great work! Very nice detailing. Nice work on the drop tank seams. Love that barber pole antenna. Sincerely, Mark
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Very smart work, Richard. I like that cable conduit. The front has a lead-in. There is no lead-in on the back face although there is a cable opening. Do you know why that would be? What did you use for your silver fasteners? Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Mark