LSP_Ray

We had them on B-52s, a lot of them . We called them C-4 lights, I don't believe they were on any ww2 types though I could be wrong on that[ been known to happen from time to time]. They had a rheostat to control brightness and could be switched to red if needed ,pretty cool. they were also on B-47s IIRC.

Actually there were small movable lights in WW2 fighters!

Very nice!

Article is posted!
Love the weathering!

Very nice!

In my continuing different nations quest, I have come to Poland - this is IBG's sublime 1/32 PZL P-11c. I cannot say enough good about this kit, I wish they would do more... I used a mater brass gun barrels, and btw this is the only 6 gun P-11c... I accidentally dropped not one but two barrels into the wings when mounting them and they refused to come out. Replaced the gear brace PE with a thin piece of steel wire as I bent the PE numerous times handling the kit. Also added HGW seat belts from scaps from other kits. Painted with Hataka laquer paint
 
BTW it is NOT an error that the wing upper surface national markings are not placed symmetrically. For some reason that was the way it was...
 
On the morning of september 1st Wladyslaw Gnys shot down to german bombers for the first allied victories of WWII. However Gnys' flight leader had provided Luftwaffe their first victory just a few minutes before...
 

 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
 

let me present the 1/32 Tamiya mosquito, such a nice aircraft to build, also used were ICM ground figures.
There is some much detail in this kit its hard as to where do I start, but wait, you cart see it, it’s all covered up, well at least I know it's there.
the instruction book alone is a work of art, brilliant kit enjoy.

Here are a few photos of my recently completed Bf-109 G-6/R-6, built using Revell's kit and Eduard's underwing cannon pods. Colours are from Vallejo's Model Air range.



It was a fun project, so much so, that I already have a couple more 1:32 scale warbirds on my to build pile!
 
Cheers
 
 

Thanks to an error on my part, I inadvertently ordered the Quinta set for the Airfix kit. By using my relatively new dial calipers though, I've been able to determine that they're almost a dead-on match for each other, so I'll probably be going with it vs grabbing the correct set.
 

This will be the scheme; from the Eduard VLR Mustang kit, which I don’t yet have, but soon will.

 
 
 
 
 
 

Here are some pictures of a utility light (often referred to as a “Grimes Light”) on a Boeing 757. From what I can tell, the basic design has remained unchanged for decades, although I don’t know if it goes all the way back to WWII.
 
Anyway, as I didn’t have a measuring tape handy, I got out the next best thing: my “NATO Standard” bank card, which measures 85.6mm by 54.0mm. 
 
Hope this helps a little!
 
Rich


 

 

 

 



 

The painting of the markings from the masks as well as the laying of the decals was successful, not everything had to be painted from the masks. The end is near so it is high time to look around for the next model.
 

Article is posted!
Love the weathering!

Article is posted!
Great job! Figures are awesome!

...except when they are carrying the 3 crowns!!! That is why I got one when they came out.

..teaser...
 

 

 
..the primer was fine when applied over clean fine sanded surfaces and this model has had a LOT of masking so it needed to be
 
getting some stainless steel flying wires etched and a mask for the serial - once thats done it's glamour shot time
 
Now where did I put those Sea Fury drawings...
 
Peter

Hello All,
After 50 years plus of modelling, I've finally decided to try and make a living with it.
To this end, I have built a website:
 
www.custom-models-and-dioramas.com
 

 
If anyone you know may want a model scenario (if you don't have time to build it for them yourself of course!) then I'd appreciate if you'd send them my way
Thanks
 
Craig

Hi
Regarding US Navy aircrews, I had gap for the périod mid 70s to early 80s.
So we made a F-14 aircrew of the first years, with helmet and oxygen mask that was in use before "top-gun 1", so before 1981.

However, as I do not have a F-14 available, i installed them in an Intruder in 1/32 scale :

 
 

Cheers
Norbert

There are options from the PCM/Kitlinx A-4 release, if you find someone willing to part with some unused option.

 
Here is the full PCM Fw190A-4 review.

Progress continues and I am beginning to understand why tall ships take so long to build when you try to get the rigging fairly accurate - it is a very time intensive process.  I am keeping my fingers firmly crossed that I don't end up making a real mess of the rigging.  My lack of experience is really showing now as I have to keep referring to sources and triple checking to make sure I am running and tying of line right; but I am getting more efficent and, hopefully, better.
 
The mizzen topgallant shrouds are finished.  I made a couple of slight changes to how the line are run based on the sources I have reviewed.  These turned out to look ok.
 
You can see how crowded some of the areas on the mast gets with line and blocks.
 
I finished running the main topmast shrouds as well.  Like the mizzen mast shrouds they go a long way towards stabilizing the masts.  Running actual shroud lines is a fair amount of work, but I can't imagine that the flimsy plastic shrouds/ratlines the kit provides either look better or provide any sort of support.
 
 
 
The shroud lines ran nicely on both sides and I managed to get the deadeyes pretty even with good spacing.
 
This photo really shows how crowed and complex the rigging lines get - and this is just the standing rigging.  Once the lines are run and tightened things should look much more shipshape. 
 
Wrong photo above, the correct one is below.
 

Geez, good luck!

So, with the Minicraft build on hiatus for a few days while I let the clear coats harden as much as possible, I thought I'd press on with this one, as it stills need a lot of work. While there are still some other areas that need attention, the last major construction hurdle with this build is getting the engine pylons to fit. In an earlier post I discussed swapping the rear of the Bra.Z pylons with those from the kit engines, but the more I looked at this as a possible solution, the less of a solution it appeared to be. And then it suddenly struck me that the major issue I was facing was that the angle of incidence of the wings was too high, meaning that the pylons are at completely the wrong angle to the wings in order to achieve the correct sit.
 
Armed with this knowledge, and discounting the Welsh pylons as completely inadequate in terms of overall shape, I set about modifying the Bra.Z pylons to suit. Firstly, they're much too short, so I decided the best approach was to cut the rear sections off, and place them separately in the correct positions on the wings:
 

 
This left the engine pod with very little contact with the wing surface, so I elected to drill and pin them:
 

 
Apologies for my awful rescribing! My favourite scribing tool is now a bit worn out, and no longer producing clean lines. I'm currently in the market for some new ones, and happy to take recommendations!
 
With the engines now dry-fitted on their pins, you can see the respective gaps between the rear of the engines and rear section of the pylons:
 

 
The oddest thing about this is that one of the gaps is noticeably larger than the other! So either the Bra.Z pylons are different lengths left to right, or the Welsh wings are different in chord left to right. Either way, I now have substantial gaps to fill.
 
Here's what it looks like right way up:
 

 
These mods should work, but won't do anything to improve the "757-ish" look of the finished model. I am left with a bit of a conundrum, though. From a construction point of view, the easiest approach here is to glue the engines in place, break out the Milliput, and fill and blend everything together. However, since the engines need to be blue, painting them properly will be much easier before they're attached to the model. The usual "have it both ways" solution here would be to lay down some self-adhesive foil where the pylons sit, temporarily glue the engines in place, fill-blend-sand-etc, and then remove them for painting. I'm just not sure if this approach will work with regard to filling the large empty spaces in the pylons themselves. I think it might be better to build those sections out with styrene or lumps of resin (from old casting blocks).
 
I guess I can but try. Stay tuned!

Kev

The next step was to protect the decals and existing paint work with a couple of heavy gloss coats:
 

 
I used Alclad's Aqua Gloss, which I generally reserve for those occasions where I'm concerned that a solvent-based clear coat might affect the decals - which is the case whenever they're laser-printed, like here. I'll leave this for at least 48 hours now, before going anywhere near it with masking tape!
 
I've also discovered some errors and omissions, some of which I also plan to attend to. The most visible one is that I got the colour of the engine pylons wrong. I assumed they'd be white like the engines themselves, but they are in fact the same light grey as the wings, so I'll be attempting to correct that, at least.
 
Might get a chance to do a bit more work on the Welsh kit now. At least I know not to bother with the Corogard decals!
 
Kev

Top lines (across fuselage), as well as vertical lines that were lost during sanding of the window areas, have now been restored. I went a bit deeper that I normally might, but am counting on the paint to blend that all in nicely.
 

There are options from the PCM/Kitlinx A-4 release, if you find someone willing to part with some unused option.

 
Here is the full PCM Fw190A-4 review.