[1/18 Scale P-51B 3D Print Build]

Jay, great work. I am very suspect of restored equipment in private use as being totally accurately restored. So I’d stick to period photos myself. I find this so true with armor vehicle restorations.

 

I knew of the Malcom hood but not the details of usage or installation. I find the cranking system to close and open questionable. I hope there was an over ride when you needed to escape fast 

 

I searched today for an answer to your question and probably came up with the same answers you have. There must be a set of instructions for installation somewhere in a British museum.  Have you contacted any museum?

[Hawker Hurricane 1/12 scale scratch build]

Very nice work. Are your formers also brass?

[1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595]

Wow wow wow . . . wow

 

so, with that canopy closed, how the h_ _ _ did the pilot fly this thing! Not easily.

 

Great job Peter!

[1/32 Dragon Bf-109E-3 "Dr Erich Mix"]

Go with your reference. I would forget what it should look like

[1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595]

A stunning example of “attention to detail” modeling…love it, well done!

I also like your approach to picking a color.

[1:32nd scale Halberstadt D.II]

Nice work and subject. The actual aircraft looks so fragile. Your using brass to add strength is a good move against those gremlins waiting to do their work.

[1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595]

Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your technique. 

[Marcel BLOCH MB 152C1 Azur 1/32]

Good soldering 

[1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595]

Excellent! Well done!

[1/18 Scale P-51B 3D Print Build]

Jay, great progress, just a pleasure to watch this new technique evolve! Your gig is an excellent idea. I think without it you would regret it!

[1:32nd scale Macchi M.5]

Rod within tube struts, nice strength!

[1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595]

Always a pleasure Peter!

Merry Christmas all.

[Bonding]

For brass to brass, I did a number of tests a while ago and found Permatex Steel Weld 84109 had my best results. My first test with it failed but luckily I did additional tests and was extremely impressed.

 

It is not as fast as soldering, actually a slow process but very strong once cured. 5 minute working time, 10 minute setup, 24 hr full cure according to the instructions.

 

 

[First time with resins. One question, so far.]

If you are doing the casting, try using the resin for a patch. The resin I used bonded to itself and plastic (great way to make fillets)

[1/32 Short Stirling]

Old school …well done!! Just great craftsmanship. 

[1/18 Airacobra 1 - AH601]

Such an interesting approach to this model. I assume you are going to litho skin this?

Is rivet detail too small for printing?
 

Great work

[Hawker Demon.....finished!]

Bright side…better you found it now and not after completion! Looking good.

[Nieuport 21 N2453 - Donat Makijonek - 7 IAO spring 1917 - CSM 1/32]

Nice to know the history behind the man. Nice progress on the cockpit. Look forward to more progress 

[Trumpeter 1/32 P-47D Razorback "Eileen"]

Well done! Interesting the crude outlining of the tail underside stripes in the reference photos.

I wonder how long it took them to paint replacements in the group markings?

[1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification]

Jay, what is the tool you use to do the riveting? Something you made or commercially available?

[1/18 Curtiss P40C - Finished :)]

Peter, just absolute great detail work. The “bar” is so high, I can’t imagine it could be surpassed. Very refreshing…thank you!

[1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification]

Jay, looking good. What is the thickness of your litho? .012”, .015” or thinner?
 

Thanks for addressing my concerns about the tail wheel strength. I was reminded of the WWI images testing wing strength 

[1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification]

2 hours ago, JayW said:

 

Is there a specific part you are concerned with?  Or just the whole tail gear mechanism?  

Basically the main pieces that give it strength. The tubings, joints and related supports. Not the other detail pieces that are non bearing. I have no experience with 3D printing and from what I’ve read, I thought these plastics were brittle.

 

I do a lot of brass work and thought this would be a challenging piece to make. At least you would only have to make one.

[1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification]

Jay, is this going to be strong enough? Looks wise it is great but strength wise…good candidate for brass construction.

[Ki-84 "Hayate", 1/32, Hasegawa]

Impressive. Quite elaborate markings. Well done.