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Paulpk

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  1. Paulpk
    Jay, great work. I am very suspect of restored equipment in private use as being totally accurately restored. So I’d stick to period photos myself. I find this so true with armor vehicle restorations. I knew of the Malcom hood but not the details of usage or installation. I find the cranking system to close and open questionable. I hope there was an over ride when you needed to escape fast I searched today for an answer to your question and probably came up with the same answers you have. There must be a set of instructions for installation somewhere in a British museum. Have you contacted any museum?
  2. Paulpk
    Very nice work. Are your formers also brass?
  3. Paulpk
    Wow wow wow . . . wow so, with that canopy closed, how the h_ _ _ did the pilot fly this thing! Not easily. Great job Peter!
  4. Paulpk
    Go with your reference. I would forget what it should look like
  5. Paulpk
    A stunning example of “attention to detail” modeling…love it, well done! I also like your approach to picking a color.
  6. Paulpk
    Nice work and subject. The actual aircraft looks so fragile. Your using brass to add strength is a good move against those gremlins waiting to do their work.
  7. Paulpk
    Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your technique.
  8. Paulpk
    Good soldering
  9. Paulpk
    Excellent! Well done!
  10. Paulpk
    Jay, great progress, just a pleasure to watch this new technique evolve! Your gig is an excellent idea. I think without it you would regret it!
  11. Paulpk
    Rod within tube struts, nice strength!
  12. Paulpk
    Always a pleasure Peter! Merry Christmas all.
  13. Paulpk
    For brass to brass, I did a number of tests a while ago and found Permatex Steel Weld 84109 had my best results. My first test with it failed but luckily I did additional tests and was extremely impressed. It is not as fast as soldering, actually a slow process but very strong once cured. 5 minute working time, 10 minute setup, 24 hr full cure according to the instructions.
  14. Paulpk
    If you are doing the casting, try using the resin for a patch. The resin I used bonded to itself and plastic (great way to make fillets)
  15. Paulpk
    Old school …well done!! Just great craftsmanship.
  16. Paulpk
    Such an interesting approach to this model. I assume you are going to litho skin this? Is rivet detail too small for printing? Great work
  17. Paulpk
    Bright side…better you found it now and not after completion! Looking good.
  18. Paulpk
    Nice to know the history behind the man. Nice progress on the cockpit. Look forward to more progress
  19. Paulpk
    Well done! Interesting the crude outlining of the tail underside stripes in the reference photos. I wonder how long it took them to paint replacements in the group markings?
  20. Paulpk
    Jay, what is the tool you use to do the riveting? Something you made or commercially available?
  21. Paulpk
    Peter, just absolute great detail work. The “bar” is so high, I can’t imagine it could be surpassed. Very refreshing…thank you!
  22. Paulpk
    Jay, looking good. What is the thickness of your litho? .012”, .015” or thinner? Thanks for addressing my concerns about the tail wheel strength. I was reminded of the WWI images testing wing strength
  23. Paulpk
    Basically the main pieces that give it strength. The tubings, joints and related supports. Not the other detail pieces that are non bearing. I have no experience with 3D printing and from what I’ve read, I thought these plastics were brittle. I do a lot of brass work and thought this would be a challenging piece to make. At least you would only have to make one.
  24. Paulpk
    Jay, is this going to be strong enough? Looks wise it is great but strength wise…good candidate for brass construction.
  25. Paulpk
    Impressive. Quite elaborate markings. Well done.
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