josebagasteiz

I think know the cause of your problem that happens to me too. And it is that the rear side fuel tanks are poorly molded and that prevents the upper hull from fitting into the lower hull. I found out too late.

I haven't built any boat so far so I'm following it's construction with interest. All the best.

Those straps on the ammo racks I didn't know the G version of the Panther carried. The truth is they are very cool. One question, what color have you used and what brand in the steel color of some of the Shells you have painted? The steel color that I have does not match the color that you have painted those Shells.

Very cool!! It's an amazing job and in record time!! But you are missing the Stug III 1/16 from Gallery Models.

A masterpiece to be proud of!!!

It's better now specially the yellow stripes.

Those weld lines look good. Every year that passes the models improve details.

Bueno, te vas a reír porque las placas del piso las construyen a mano. A ver si el traductor de google hace bien su trabajo y lo sé explicar bien. En lámina de plástico corté las piezas al tamaño de cada agujero. Entonces pensé en prensar papel de aluminio sobre las piezas del suelo del casco proporcionadas por la maqueta para que quedara grabado el relieve del suelo para luego recortarlo y pegarlo a las piezas de plástico mencionadas anteriormente. Pero el relieve no estaba tan bien grabado en el papel de aluminio como yo quería. Así que sustituí la lata por cinta de fontanero de aluminio y el resultado fue satisfactorio porque además era autoadhesiva por lo que solo había que despegar con cuidado las piezas originales del suelo para pegarlas sobre las piezas cortadas a medida en lámina de plástico cortando el exceso de cinta adhesiva. Espero haberlo explicado bien Tim. Aquí está el resultado: Una pregunta Tim, ¿dónde puedo encontrar las placas que pones en los diferentes dispositivos así como los rayos rojos que señalan el peligro eléctrico? Estoy buscando por internet y a escala 1/16 no lo encuentro. En Archer Fine Transfer no hay

The world is a handkerchief!! I have worked a lot with CAF BEASAIN, the headquarters of this company in Beasain, Basque Country. I have supplied them with different parts and spare parts for the railway cars and locomotives that they build. What a coincidence!! Jose and Joseba is the same. José is in Spanish and Joseba is in Euskera. These two languages are spoken in the Basque Country. So it's okay to address me both ways, don't worry about it.

If you have to lengthen the exposure time a lot, even if you hold the camera with a tripod, the photo may come out blurred just by pressing the shutter button. To avoid that, shoot with a delayed shot.

I haven't found many pictures of the Panther's instrument panel either, so it's a little left to free interpretation. As for photos, to increase the depth of field (area in focus in front of and behind the subject of the photo) there are different methods. On a smartphone it is better to take the photo with the main wide-angle camera and then crop the image, you will lose resolution but to publish on the internet it will be enough. But if you take the photo with a reflex camera or another in which you can choose the shooting mode, do it in MANUAL mode. Close the diaphragm, the more you close it, the greater the depth of field will be. To compensate for light loss you will need to lengthen the exposure time and may need to hold the camera with a tripod. I hope it helps.

Thank you very much!!

It looks good. Now would be a good time to add the weld seams in the hull edges to the Panzer I. Greetings!!

Thank you very much Tom!! Thanks!! Okay, but I'm going slow.

gracias kevin!! Me alegro de que te guste. Gracias. Creo que no voy a pegar la parte superior del casco para que veáis todo el trabajo realizado. Muchas gracias Brian Gracias Matty, me has dado el mejor cumplido para mí, que mi Pantera parece real. Gracias marcos!!

Hi friends. Here's some update with the engine finally in place. In addition to the placement of radiators, fans and fuel tanks finished. A closer image where you can see the butterfly mechanism located in the firewall. As well as the throttle rod actuator. Now some photos of the unfinished ammo racks. And some more details of the finished driver and radio operator positions. That's all for now. Hope you like. All the best.

Courage and patience, a lot of patience to remove all those seams and marks from the mold ejector. I will continue this work.

What envy!! All projectiles sanded and painted, how lazy I am to get to it!! By the way, where did you get the additional projectile decals??

I'm adding the last details of the engine compartment. Soon I will upload new photos. ☺️

An important progress for your Panther and for you. The interior is already beginning to be full. I'm still far from that situation, I just finished with the engine compartment.

I am going to try to sculpt the ones provided by the model.

LSP_Ray was ahead of me, the first option is AFV Modelle, but you can also mold them in putty.

Good job!! I also thought of replacing the rigid covers of the projectile compartments with something that simulated the fabric, but in my case I thought of doing it with tin foil.

HI Nils. It's a great job you're doing with your Jagd. The detail and finesse are great. I'am very happy that you share your photos about the Jagd!! They sure inspire many people. Thanks for that!!

I bought the micro balls from Sourcing Map, a seller on Amazon. But they are very expensive for me, they are made of carbon steel but the micro balls that make up the Liquid Gravity by De Luxe Materials are also worth it, much cheaper.