Woody V

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

I have one of those Iwata cleaning kits, but it didn't include one of these. I actually made one from the H&S brand one.
Where did you get this?

Out of boredom I read through this thread this morning,
Based on my years of experience, and the responses here I can confidently advise:
It's complicated.

Today it was the RLM 83/ MRP-072.
So I made soft cardboard masks, glued under the 2~3mm thick foam tape then double sided tape and then repositionable/low adhesion tape to not damage the RLM 77. 
The RLM 83 is diluted with 30% thinner then I painted making sure to have my airbrush at 90° of the surface to be painted so as not to risk the paint passing under the masks.
In the end I get a fairly light blur that I would have a hard time getting without them.
The result seems good in terms of color contrasts and correct (but no more) as for the technical realization.
I await your opinions, comments and advice.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. 

I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Engine and cockpit is ready. Added cables, some bigger/smaller containers, brown oil tank, gun belts to make ammo compartment more busy. Provided 3D decal has weak glue so I used CA on edges to prevent slipping. Part 5 was missing in instruction it should be placed under right side of instrument panel.





I used different washes - brown, black, engine grease on engine. Koh I Noor crayons for small scratches.

As with everything, there are exceptions to the rules and according to the drawing it's obvious this is one of those situations. 

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. 

I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. 

I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Kev, actually you have to go gently with this tool, and you just have to put your tip in contact with the nozzle, without pressing then turn gently to remove the residue of dried paint.
That’s why I advised you and put the links of the needles which are perfectly calibrated for the diameter of the nozzle and allow to clean it without damaging it.

Same one I bought, which arrived today. Haven't used it yet, but I have been warned to be careful with it, as it can wreck the inside of the nozzle pretty quickly. Some commenters even warned me off using it at all. I'll give it a gentle try, though.

Kev

Hi , I ordered one yesterday from amazon au it was $9 Aus delivered, I searched for Iwata reamer and 2 or 3 came up in the list, sold by Abest and I would say its coming from China. Cheers.

The one I ordered is from Amazon, as part of a small set that includes reaming wires and brushes. It's ABEST brand, which ironically is the same as the $24 airbrush I bought last year, but never used until yesterday! While I was on a roll with the airbrushes, I decided it was time I actually pulled the thing out and use it. Apart from the hose not fitting properly without a quick connect adaptor in middle, it actually sprayed OK! Very cheap feeling, though, which I guess is not really surprising. Oddly, the packaging doesn't tell me what the needle/nozzle size is, so I have no idea. It's either 0.2, 0.3, or 0.5, as that's what the empty checkboxes on packaging say.

Kev

Amazon. Search airbrush parts and accessories. It may be included with "Cleaning sets" but I think I found it as a single item too. And, no, it didn't come with my Iwata set, I just have it stored in the case.

https://micro-surface.com/product/micro-mesh-sheets-individual/
 

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. 

I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. 

I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First of only 2 colors , Medium Sea Grey ...
 

 
Dark Green next ...
 

I know this is going to sound extremely nit picky but the slots in deus fasteners are parallel to the edge when they are locked and perpendicular to the edge when not. They aren't screws, they're quarter-turn fasteners. Normally, I wouldn't bring this up but you're so dedicated to accuracy. 

I know this is going to sound extremely nit picky but the slots in deus fasteners are parallel to the edge when they are locked and perpendicular to the edge when not. They aren't screws, they're quarter-turn fasteners. Normally, I wouldn't bring this up but you're so dedicated to accuracy. 

I know this is going to sound extremely nit picky but the slots in deus fasteners are parallel to the edge when they are locked and perpendicular to the edge when not. They aren't screws, they're quarter-turn fasteners. Normally, I wouldn't bring this up but you're so dedicated to accuracy. 

This one?
 
I've got a lot of stuff like this in a chest of drawers in the closet of my "office". The stash has grown to cover up the chest of drawers. So, you made me dig it out.  I've probably had this one for a couple decades. The 'older' set is what I was using to polish the '57. I haven't looked at the bottle of polish to see if it's okay. The bottle from the other set went bad and is long gone.
 

I just started the BB'ing with the 0.2 needle/nozzle for the airbrush, diluted white MRP paint 50/50, low pressure and I squeeze the cheeks.
I stop there for tonight because as you see it is very long to paint.
And not to break the antenna, I still have a little trick: a bowl of bamboo fiber, cut to let the vertical stab pass.
Thus the antenna never touches anything and should remain intact long enough.
I can always dream…
I don’t know how it works in your countries, but in France, disposable objects can no longer be made of plastic.
You can admire the makeup brush I stole from my wife, and she’s still looking for it!
It allows me to remove a maximum of dust on the model before painting.
 

 

 

 

The fact that you've gotten this far without breaking off the antenna post alone is commendable. 
A feat I've never accomplished. 

hi,
 
I would recommend to mix a drop of cyano with talc.
Il will speed up the cure time.
genreally, the mix is dried within minutes.
But maybe it is to hard then to rescribe in it.