Woody V

OK got most of the markings on. Had trouble with the Oracal masks, kept pulling off whatever was
underneath it no matter what I did. If I wanted to protect a decal for example, I would cover it with
straight dishsoap. Didn't matter, pulled up chunks of decal and paint anyway. I gave up on the Oracal
and switched to wet typing paper which worked fine for the fuselage codes. The black outlines are
Alps decals. Anyway, getting closer ...
 

 

 

 
Back later ...

And a few months after all these aftermarket upgrades hit the market someone will release a state-of-the-art injection kit. Or at least that how things work for armor models. 

I had one of these kits for years but I never built it. Ugly and beautiful. Really looking forward to seeing yours finished.

Under $9 at Walmart
But why bother when Alclad Aqua Gloss is clearly superior in every way.

Under $9 at Walmart
But why bother when Alclad Aqua Gloss is clearly superior in every way.

Nice work! I hope the pilot comes with a head. If not, that's cool. Whatever works.

Too cool not to share-
 
1/16 SUU-20 and blue death BDU-33’s for the centerline pylon


Timmy! Strikes again!
 
P

I can't say anything about Elegoo printers, but I can tell you after buying a Mono M5s, I can verify the high speed stuff is more than just marketing, and it has more to offer than just high speed.
 
The accuracy and speed at .05 layer height (or less) is astounding, and for me the fact that I have to do zero leveling and can just send a romote print to the printer without doing anything to it is awesome.
Yes the high speed resin is a bit more expensive, but I've gotten mine on Amazon and honestly it isn't outrageous.
 
The ability to print anything from a multitude of 3/4" 1/550th scale Star Wars ground speeders that retained nearly all the detail, to printing super detailed prints like a Bearded Dragon in under 3 hours is something I'm truly loving. 
It's super hard to even see any print lines with some of the stuff I've printed, using minimal sanding and a single primer layer.
Zero sanding needed on my little Beardy.
Again, I can't speak to other brands, but I can tell you that the Mono M5s with auto leveling is worth the cost I paid, 100%.
 

 

 
 
 
 
Retaining detail on SUPER small prints is  where this printer really shines.
These things were so small they were nearly impossible to get pics of the details, but it did a wonderful job on retaining detail on something I can barely see or photograph. Even the micro sized skid was captured faithfully:
 

 

 

 
 
So far the auto-leveling, hands off ease of use and the ability to copy super small ultra fine details are my favorite things about this printer. The fast speed to me is just gravy.....
Now I just to find a single reliable support/slicer program that does everything I need that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. 
Currently I'm split AnyCubics OOB slicer, Lychee and Voxeldance/VDT.
 
I may not be a 3D printing expert/SME/Guru but I can highly recommend the M5s.

Guys, Thank you very much for your time and patience, in the end I bought a couple of 502 oil paints, and AK enamels, thanks to those who have posted for the help, I am passing a couple of photos, the f4 is in wip, sorry for the Bad quality of the photos, I don't have a professional camera nor the equipment for it, I took them with my cell phone
 
The AK enamels work great, and the oilbrushers too, the 502 oil paints have to be mastered a little but they also work great
 

 
 

 

Hello my friends, today no photos and update.
Saturday morning I had a stomach ache and Sunday it got worse.
So direction the emergency of the hospital on the advice of my wife, blood test and scanner: inflammation of the gallbladder with a stone of 20mm that blocked this vesicle.
The emergency doctor made an appointment for me urgently and this morning I was lying in the operating room to have this gallbladder removed.
I just got out of the hospital because it was an outpatient surgery. (you come in the morning and you go out at night)
I’ll just have to pay attention to dishes too rich in fat (actually, everything I like) like sauerkraut and tartiflette!
I leave a little aside my FW 190 and I would resume in a few days.    
Morality: there is always a nurse in every woman, so listen to her when she tells you to go to the hospital!

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

Thin them with AK (or other hobby brands) Odorless Thinner if you want to make a wash, or a panel line wash. Commercial Odorless Thinners also work.

You can use them for weathering like exhaust stains straight from the tube, but it's recommended to put a dollop on cardboard (or paper towel) to absorb the oils in the paint. This makes them easier to work with. Clear coat your model before using them, but regardless, they will not attack any paint system I know of. Some guys do their weathering over satin clear while others over gloss. Once you are finished, clear coat your model. Your choice, but play with them on a scrap mode.

I'm sure you'll get numerous responses, but that's my take on the subject.

I thought long and hard about what to do about the fuselage camouflage (out of stain and blotch) and came to the conclusion that I had to use masks.
Since the time you know how I proceed and here is the fuselage with the masks in place as well as protections for the paint not to be covered.
The fuselage was painted as quickly as it was long to protect by masks.
The masks had to be measured, cut out, then re-raised and re-cut, and then put thick foam in place to create a space between the masks and the model, while checking the consistency between the masks and the period photos…
This was veryyyyyyyyyyyy looooooooooooooong to do but the final result pleases me well, the fade between the RLM 83/75/76 is consistent with what wanted to achieve.
 
I await your opinions and comments.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Working on some small details. 
 
I have printed out a first version of my cockpit side walls and IP. They seem to fit so I will go back into Fusion and add some more details. Radio deck was received some wiring.
 

 
Brake lines on the main gear.
 

 
Dan
 
 

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

As with everything, there are exceptions to the rules and according to the drawing it's obvious this is one of those situations. 

I know this is going to sound extremely nit picky but the slots in deus fasteners are parallel to the edge when they are locked and perpendicular to the edge when not. They aren't screws, they're quarter-turn fasteners. Normally, I wouldn't bring this up but you're so dedicated to accuracy. 

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

There’s a saying I’ll quote here.     ”That…PFM”
Pure *ucking Magic!
I can’t make a mainstream injected kit look that good with a full tube of putty and week of sanding! And you carve one out of a sheet of styrene!?
yes im jealous! Who wouldn’t be

When you understand the theory you come up with simple solutions, like this. 

Awhile ago I had a canopy SLA printed at Shapeways using something called "Accura 60". After sanding out the layer lines and dipping in Future, the canopy was crystal clear. Here's some info:
 
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/sla-accura-60
 
Not sure if this will help you, but thought you might be interested.
 

 

 
--Derek
 
 

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.
 

By hand.  I have a dremmel so if you think there is an attachment that will get me a better finish, let me know.  
 
 
Doesn't seem so Guy.  Perhaps like laminated glass, the individual layers are not evident.  If I can get a significant improvement on the second part just doing what I did but more thoroughly, I think everyone including me will be happy with it.  
 
 
Good question.  My hood is about .025 inch thick at the boundaries, gradually transitioning to .03 thick in the middle.  That is about as thin as I dare for a fairly large part like this.  The real windshield side glass is 3/8 inch thick or .02 inch at 1/18 scale.  The canopy glass is 3/16 inch or .01 inch at 1/18.  
 
 
Well now - I think I will try that.  Thanks Woody.  The rest as you describe - that is kinda how i have been doing it.    

Hi William, if there was a leak in my airbrush, then these bubbles would also be visible with MRP paint for example, and with all liquids in general. 
While these bubbles appear only with hairspray lacquer.
It is therefore a chemical reaction liquid cold hairspray lacquer/ metal airbrush. 

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss.

This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.