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Archer Fine Transfers

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  1. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to D.B. Andrus in Alclad tips needed   
    Ron
     
    I tried the Alclad black over several bases and it never dried. Maybe I had a bad bottle, but have heard of the same problem. Others have had no problems with it. 
    I'd recommend testing before committing to use on your model.
     
    Damian
     
  2. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to denders in Straightening SAC metal landing gear?   
    I saw the email notification, Thank You again!
  3. Thanks
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to Whitey in Seemless DMold F-4 intakes   
    I used them on an F-4J and they are fine. Got a set ready for an F-4E build too.  Highly recommended.
  4. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to Scale32 in Panel lines......   
    Now that makes it a lot easier, if you made a boo boo you just erase it.
  5. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to Ryan in Panel lines......   
    72nd, sorry...but there are NO panel line washes on this model.
     

     
     
  6. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Panel lines......   
    Second vote for a pencil sharpened to a chisel point. Won't work on gloss, but it does on SG or flat.
  7. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Straightening SAC metal landing gear?   
    I might have the kit parts you're looking for. Which part numbers exactly do you need?
  8. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Straightening SAC metal landing gear?   
    Hi Dave,
    Got ya covered. Send your mailing address to orders@archertransfers.com and I'll put them in the mail with a tracking link.
    Woody
  9. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Looking for recommendations for a model build stand. (FOUND)   
    Jig:
    noun
    Machinery. a plate, box, or open frame for holding work and for guiding a machine tool to the work, used especially for locating and spacing drilled holes; fixture.
     
    You can call an alligator a tomato but that doesn't make it a tomato.
  10. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Looking for recommendations for a model build stand. (FOUND)   
    Wrong, a jig is more of a fixture to hold a workpiece firmly in place while tools work on it, like you see in factories. Jigs for building models are used to hold components in precise alignment - like biplanes, but they are more commonly used in the construction of flying models. But what do I know, I was only a tool maker for 7 years.
     
     
  11. Thanks
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Scale32 in Panel lines......   
    Second vote for a pencil sharpened to a chisel point. Won't work on gloss, but it does on SG or flat.
  12. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Ryan in Wake Island F4F-3 Trumpeter 1/32   
    Or how I saved the first model I've built in 20 years from the trash bin.
    For the whole sordid story see the WIP build HERE
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
  13. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Ryan in Panel lines......   
    Second vote for a pencil sharpened to a chisel point. Won't work on gloss, but it does on SG or flat.
  14. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Looking for recommendations for a model build stand. (FOUND)   
    The subject isn't jigs, just something to hold the model while you work on it.
     
  15. Thanks
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to gwana in Whats the best way to paint wheels/tires?   
    Another technique that works for me is to paint the whole thing tire color, mask to the wheel as close as possible and paint the wheel color. Then make an oil wash similar to your tire color and apply it right at the line where the wheel and tire meet. It will capillary around the perimeter and pretty much hide any overspray. You may have to repeat the wash a couple of times.
  16. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to quang in Looking for recommendations for a model build stand. (FOUND)   
    To me, the main purpose of a jig is to allow the modeller to adjust the geometry of an aeroplane constituents: dihedral, angle of incidence, raking angles of the UC, etc. A real jig would at the very least allow you to check the symmetry of a build.
     
    Another interesting feature of the JH jigs (and the likes) is that you can safely and securely affix the model to the jig by a simple system of rubber bands. The model cannot be knocked off nor its paint damaged as it cannot move while on the jig.
     
    I find the JH jig especially handy when I have to move my in-progress build around without even having to touch my model. How safer can that be?
     
     
     
     
  17. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to chuck540z3 in Looking for recommendations for a model build stand. (FOUND)   
    Curious as to what you think the limitations are and what a "real jig" is supposed to do?  When I see all the wood and plastic stands out there, all I can think about is that the model is on a few hard surfaces that might damage the paint and is hanging up in the air, subject to getting knocked off.  I have had no limitations with the $1 box whatsoever.  I can sand the model, paint it, add parts, etc. with no risk to the paint or having it fall off a stand.
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  18. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to Ryan in Panel lines......   
    Pencil works very well over a flat paint job, just be sure where you want it as there is no erasing it.
     
    Washes suck for many reasons, this being one of them.
  19. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers reacted to Joe66 in Special Hobby Westland Whirlwind Mk 1   
    And for those on the fence...here is a little motivation....
     

  20. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Jan_G in Wake Island F4F-3 Trumpeter 1/32   
    Or how I saved the first model I've built in 20 years from the trash bin.
    For the whole sordid story see the WIP build HERE
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
  21. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from TenSeven in 1/32 TRUMPETER SBD-3 Guadalcanal   
    WHY EVERYTHING TAKES FOREVER AROUND HERE, Part 27
    (Or the world’s longest canopy masking post)
     
    One of the most difficult things in model building is getting your mojo back after shelving your project for months. Combine that with one of my least favorite things to do, masking canopies and store-bought canopy masks apparently made from recycled inner tubes and another tale of woe will emerge.
     
    WEEK 1
    The last canopy I masked was my Wildcat but with only two pieces and only painting the outside was pretty easy. I cut thin strips of Tamiya masking tape for that one so I figured I’d do the same on this build, just paint the outside. Here’s where I started and then I decided I’d use some pre-cut masks from a vendor who will remain nameless to do the inside. I didn’t like this at all. The pieces don’t really fit and this material doesn’t conform to compound surfaces.
     

    My first attempt doing the outside wasn’t exactly inspiring and my boxing glove hands didn’t help either.
     

    In order to get the inside pieces to even come close I cut it in half, but that wasn’t enough. The contour of the edges don’t fit very well so now I’m back to thinking I’ll just do the outside with my own masks traced from the store-bought sheet.
     
    Another problem I have with one-piece masks is that I can never seem to get all four sides lined up so to overcome that I cut my masks in half so I only have to deal with lining up two edges.
     

     
    That worked out pretty good, so I figured I’d tackle the inside too. But me being me I decided I’d make my own masks, kind of like a universal canopy masking sheet which actually didn’t turn out too bad. It’s just a bunch of little squares, some strips and triangular pieces, using Tamiya masking sheets.
     

    Start in the corners.
     

    Then some strips to finish the sides.
     

    Then fill in with more tape.
     

    It gets a little complicated on parts that don’t have square corners and that’s where the triangular pieces come into play. It may not look very elegant, but it’s something I can accomplish with my limited finger mobility. The clear parts are covered and the framework isn’t.
     

    Inside of the windscreen done.
     

    Everything appeared ready for paint. I never used the rubber tires that come in the kit so I figured I’d try it this time while I had all the paint stuff out.
     
    WEEK 2
     

    I started on the inside and that went okay, or so I though. Then I did the outside but didn’t get any pictures.
     
    BUT THEN…
     
    I’m removing the masks and BOOM…. Much to my amazement I discovered that I forgot to mask one of the panels on one piece, and if that wasn’t bad enough I didn’t notice it when I was painting.
     

    So, instead of being done I had to fix this blunder.
     

    Using Mr. Color lacquer thinner and a cotton bud, I started washing off the paint….
     

    …. re-masked and repainted.
     
    BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE!
     
    At this point I stopped taking photos, but the story doesn’t end here. I discovered that some of the thinner got on the outside and that had to be touched up, and when I pulled the masking off the inside I found that some of the thinner had gotten under the mask leaving a paint stain on one of the clear panels. I tried to clean that off with IPA (why?, I have no idea) only to discover that IPA removed the Future leaving an un-fixable mess, so I completely stripped everything off and repainted it again. (Insert foul language here.)
     
    In the end it worked out.

     
    Lessons learned:
    1. You can use Mr. Color lacquer thinner to remove lacquer paint without damaging styrene.
    2. IPA removes Future.
    3. Painting the inside of canopies is a questionable practice for me.
    4. It’s not easy posting here with a cat sleeping on your lap.
     
    Stay tuned for more exciting adventures. 
  22. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35 DONE!!   
    I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.
  23. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from MARU5137 in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35 DONE!!   
    I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.
  24. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Shawn M in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35 DONE!!   
    I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.
  25. Like
    Archer Fine Transfers got a reaction from Anthony in NZ in Full raised rivet kit for Trumpeter SBD with LSP discount now available!   
    If you paint is smooth and you don't finish with a dead flat clear they just add a subtle texture that breaks up the monotony between the panel lines, if that makes any sense. If you go that route apply them under the final color, not the bare plastic. Lacquer paints are highly recommended.
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