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GDW

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GDW last won the day on August 22 2018

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About GDW

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    Petoskey, MI USA

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  1. Canopy masked and sprayed with Humbrol 111.
  2. Yes, thanks for reminding me! Just looked it up. Although it is designed for the Hasegawa Bf 109E3 E4/7 kit, it does include the add on armor in photoetch.
  3. Hi Jeff, nice to hear from somebody down under, thanks for the compliment! We will see how well I do with the paint job shortly. I am pretty rusty regarding free hand camouflage jobs, so time to get the paint mule out. Most of my airbrushing is done with a Badger 150 but recently, I picked up a Mr. Hobby PS-770 which I am looking forward to using in a big way on this. Greg
  4. I think it is a great technique that gets a good result quickly, once you have figured it out. Also, it helps to let the oil paint dry on the model before beginning to wipe it away. More so for artists oils than Abtietilung 502. Try letting it sit for 45 min. before removal. However, I did not let the oil paint dry before removing it in my headrest example but it does give someone trying it out for the first time a little more control. I use AK Interactive Odorless Thinner or Ammo of Mig Odorless Thinner to clean up the over painted areas that always occur with this method. The oil paint gets spread around when removing it but it cleans up easily with the odorless thinner. The odorless thinner dries fast too. I have enjoyed experimenting with this. Try doing black leather as well. Start with brown and then paint over it with black oil paint. Brown and black leather are good for perfecting the technique. Once you begin to like the results your getting, try something like red or green leather. Greg
  5. Here's a easy method for painting a leather head rest or leather boot at the base of a control column. Base coat with acrylic burnt sienna. After it dries, paint the leather area with raw umber oil paint, straight out of the tube, unthinned. Then, with a clean flat brush, start to remove the oil paint, wiping off the paint from the brush so that you are removing the oil paint from the surface of the work. The lighter color underneath will begin to show through at the high points, while the recessed areas will remain darker. The more paint that is removed, the more the undercoat will show through. At any point, more raw umber can be added to areas you feel need to be darker. There will be some back and forth, adding and removing paint until you are happy with the effect. Model Master Acryl, Burnt Sienna base coat. Raw Umber, straight from the tube. The excess oil paint has been wiped away creating a filter, tinting the whole piece. Where the oil paint is very thin, a highlight appears. Where there is more pigment, a shadow is created. I used this technique on some equipment for a 1:16 Verlinden figure. All the leather straps and the holster were painted the same way as the head rest.
  6. This can look good... but I think a photoetch replacement would be better.
  7. I like this a lot! Fantastic job sir. The wood propeller looks great and the decal work is really well done! Greg
  8. Is there a aftermarket photoetch armored glass upgrade for a 1/48 Bf109F windscreen?
  9. The version I'm doing, has the armored glass in front of the windscreen. Bare Metal Foil was used on the outside, Tamiya tape on the inside of the middle portion of the canopy. I used Humbrol Matt 111 to simulate RLM 66. I remember now, that is the color I base coated the Aries cockpit with. Painting the opening part of the canopy and the armored plate behind the pilots head was as far as I got (painting wise) but it was a very productive day at the bench.
  10. I really thought I was going to spend a lot more time painting today but before any color could pass through my airbrush, I needed to spend some time removing scuff marks from the canopy sections that had bounced around loose in the box for twenty odd years. Amazingly, like so many things with this charmed kit, the initial appearance of the clear parts made things seem worse than they were. Upon close inspection, there were no bad, deep scratches. There was however, lots of light scuff marks, both on the interior and exterior of every clear part in the box. After a long but pleasant polishing session, listening to music and increasingly feeling better and better, because of how nicely the parts were turning out, I was able to completely set aside my concerns associated with the condition of the cockpit glass. And yes, some paint was sprayed too - just a little. All the main bits, polished up.
  11. In my collection of paint, I have some RLM 74 and RLM 75 but no RLM 76. I looked up some recipes for RLM 76 online, using Tamiya acrylics and found two that I wanted to mix up and try. The first was a 60:40 mix of XF-23 Light Blue and XF-2 Flat White, which I airbrushed onto the drop tank. I haven't bothered with the other because upon comparison with the Eagle Editions color chart, the 60:40 XF-23 : XF-2 color is a good match. Job done, don't have to buy any!
  12. After 24 hours, the chunky bits were sanded initially with a course sanding stick, just to hog off excess material. The final shaping was done with a 400 grit sanding stick, followed by sanding with 600 and 800. The final sanding and polishing was done with a green/white Flory Models polishing stick.
  13. One of the last things to be done before painting, is fix up the wing tip position lights. The recessions outlining the lights have been mostly sanded away. A section of each wing tip, larger than the light, was removed with a fine saw. I cut two oversized pieces of clear plastic sprue and created three flat sides on each one. After drilling a hole for the light in both pieces, I painted the openings with Tamiya clear red and green. All mating surfaces were colored with a black Sharpie marker. A square section of plastic strip was glued to the front of each clear piece so that there is enough material available in order to reshape the wing tip. It looks pretty rough but it will sand out nicely. The outline of the lights will be restored by masking. Everything glued in place with liberal amounts of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.
  14. The model up on its legs, which are only dry fitted at the moment. The windscreen and rear portion of the canopy were glued on with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and some dabs of Mr. Surfacer 500 can be seen applied to the Sprue attachment points on the canopy frames. Also, I've airbrushed some thin Tamiya flat black over the exhausts. The rust shades were too bright for me, now they look more soot covered, like heated metal rather than a rusty barrel.
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