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gwana

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About gwana

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 06/18/1966

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    Male
  • Location
    Port Charlotte, FL

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271 profile views
  1. I would guess that the polish acted as a wax coat and repelled the Future. Also, not knowing exactly what polymer the part was, it's not guaranteed to act anything like styrene. If it was plexiglass or acrylic, some of those seem to exude their own oils and are fairly impossible to paint with any coating that isn't chemically hot.
  2. The impression I got from the vid was that Kermit bought all the stuff from the guy who was there explaining it, and at the end he invited the guy to come up with a proposal to keep working on it on Kermit's behalf. I think the fuselage is probably part of that, now commissioned by Kermit, effectively. It lets the guy continue with his passion, funded by Kermit.
  3. Great video, but I hardly think it counts as a '109 in a crate'. No fuselage, engine, or wings, and 90% of the sheet metal they have is repopped. It's a good start to a 109 restoration kit and I appreciate the work and passion, but it's not a broken down 109 in a box. It's a number plate and a bunch of hardware. It would kind of be like having a VIN, a bumper and an ashtray and claiming you had a '69 Shelby Mustang.
  4. Try the Mr Color Leveling thinner (lacquer thinner) . Totally changed my outcome with Tamiya acrylics. With X20 thinner they seem to dry as soon as they leave the airbrush. Even the Tamiya retarder didn't help me too much with alcohol-based thinners. The Mr. Color thinned paint seems to atomize better. Still, with a .25mm needle you may still have trouble with acrylics depending on the color. Pigment particles vary in sizes. I generally spray a .35 or even a .5 for primers. Tamiya metallics don't seem to work at all with my .35. My .18 SOTAR will barely spray acrylics at all. Maybe an 80/20 mix and mist coats. Lacquers are no problem. I've also found that using the REGDAB needle juice cuts down on tip dry. I put a few drops in the cup when I'm done for the day and spray it through, coating the needle. Edit: Just looked at your picture. Try polishing your needle! Get some auto scratch remover and a rag, put a drop on the rag and spin the needle on it. Gets rid of micro-pits and really can help with tip dry. The needle on my Badger 105 was junk before I polished it.
  5. I have a set of earthtone pastels that I got from <gasp> Hobby Lobby, and my lovely GF picked up a set of ladies' eye shadow from Walmart for a buck that has some spectacular metallic colors. It's had some stunning effects on my copper piping for my Mossie project. Many of the modeling pigments are used in makeup and soap.
  6. Read the full review and I like it. All kits have shortcomings, and pointing them out is the whole point of a review, I don't see you trash-talking the kit at all. Personally I'm going to wait for the WnW kit to drop before I make a decision, but I'd much rather see a "No BS" review than some glowing praise just because there's a lot of plastic in the box. I'm not too personally invested in how precisely a model conforms to a specific real-world specimen - I'm more interested in the engineering of the kit and how much enjoyment I'll get out of it. I want to see sink marks, ejector pins, seams (or lack thereof). Crisp or soft edges (the engines on this one and HK's Mossie do not impress me, for example).
  7. If you get hit flying a low level strike mission, you probably won't have time to consider popping a hatch anywhere. "We're hit!" ~splash~
  8. My dad used to do maintenance and training on the Hellcat in WWII. Master Sergeant USMC. He had a balsa and paper model that he did up with all sorts of realistic controls and had it as a control-line flying model before R/C was practical. He really had some stories on these and the Corsairs and I'm sure he'd appreciate this kit. Sadly he's long gone.
  9. From what I've seen, Paradise is essentially wiped out and the fire is moving in to Chico.
  10. I try to rationalize it with paint. If I'm going to load up the airbrush with RLM66 anyway, might as well have 3 cockpits ready for paint and not just one. Too bad it never works out that way...
  11. The reason I've stuck with traditional oils so far is the relative ease in fixing screw-ups over acrylic base. I can detail paint or weather with oils and if I mess up a quick swab with spirits will remove it and not disturb the base. Don't know how this would go with water-mix ones.
  12. Their search is stupidly specific. Try "BF-109" (without the quotes). That worked for me, got 74 results in 1/24. 44 results for "BF-109G". Edit: Entered in the main search box, then I selected 1/24 from the results
  13. I have a buried thread in WIP for my Mosquito, but it's stalled for a few reasons - one of which is I keep starting new ones. The other reason is the &^%$#@ fiddly Eduard resin engine set. I'll try to update (and find my camera)
  14. Casements - ugh. I have awning windows that tilt out at the bottom. Here's what I did, but my booth requires standing up: Build a plywood box just big enough to fit outside the window trim - in your case I might modify the design so the bottom of the box is above the cranks, or you'll have to lean inside to open them. Maybe just one side would work. Build a back and inner frame that allows to you use common furnace filters and a box fan. I found a fan and filters that are 20x20 (I use the pleated paper ones, not fiber). So far, I haven't seen a speck of paint on the screen or the window casing, I just crank them open when I paint, crank them shut when I'm done. If I ever move, I have to patch a few screw holes in the frame.
  15. I don't post a whole lot, but I check in almost every day for inspiration. I have about 7 projects moving along slowly.
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