Javlin1

Yep..them vent tubes in place, dunno what they are called in English.
 

 

That's the point of using it! Scott Taylor of SMS paints (a locally-produced equivalent to MRP) says that using solvent-based clear coats over solvent-based metallic finishes re-orients the metallic pigments in the paint, changing their appearance and generally dulling them. Using a water-based clear gloss doesn't produce this effect, and Scott is working on introducing just such a product to his range. And to be clear (pardon the pun), Tamiya and Gunze acrylic paints don't qualify as water-based for the purposes of this discussion, as they're both alcohol-based.
 
So, when I need to preserve a metallic finish, or protect fragile paint or decals (home-printed decals especially), I'll use Aqua Gloss unthinned. For most other purposes, I'll use either X-22 thinned with MLT, or SMS Super Clear straight out of the bottle, as I find either of these combinations produce a superior result to Aqua Gloss anyway. In fact, I'll often follow-up the Aqua Gloss with one of the latter options if I'm going for a gloss finish.
 
Kev

Leave it looks great and if weathered it will blend in well.I am feeling the same about George I am building with the chipping to mono/pragmatic not sure of the right word but figure once the washes etc. happen it will blend.

Leave it looks great and if weathered it will blend in well.I am feeling the same about George I am building with the chipping to mono/pragmatic not sure of the right word but figure once the washes etc. happen it will blend.

Wheels painted and lightly weathered and the sandwiched inside the wheel spats halves
 

 

 
Really happy with the fit and the Aires resin wheels are a huge improvement over the horrible rubber kit parts
 
Also added the Stencil decals to the airframe this evening 
 

 

 
Really happy with how the Stencil decals settled down. Need to get the Prop, spats and a couple of other sub assemblies painted and decaled next.
 
Regards Andy 
 
 

More progress this weekend with the yellow bands painted 
 

 
Followed by masking and painting national insignia 
 

 

 
I've ended up with a small painted lift area on the nose that needs fixing but otherwise all good
 

 
Getting there and going to focus on the wheel spats and prop so everything is painted ready for decals and weathering.
 
Regards. Andy

Sooooo.....from this


to this......



I did go the RLM02 route as per my latest research into this aircraft. As far as the Mänder pattern goes, it was pretty nerve-wracking putting it down. One major mishap would have meant starting most of the paint job from scratch again. Am I happy with it? Not really - it's not what I had envisioned in my head, I thought I would have got the pattern a bit tighter and not battled as much transferring my ideas into the actual paint job. I really battled being haphazard in a way, but in the back of my mind I knew I couldn't mask and be neat about it in keeping with reference photos - the lads that applied it in the field just took a spray-gun and went wild. No two lines the same width or opacity, plenty of overspray!

I'm contemplating leaving it for a day or so and decide if I need to add some extra pattern to it, but having got this out of the way, I'm also pretty loathe to do it. Thoughts? Enough or a bit more?

That being said, as it is at the moment does a really good job of breaking up that splinter pattern and that suits the purpose.










Should I leave as-is or a bit more? That being said, I might chicken out

Sprayed the major national markings bar the Hakenkreuz. I'll mask them off once I get to spraying the Mäander pattern. The flaps/flaperons have also been added, all the plastic rods were replaced with brass rod or tubing. I had mulled with the idea of drooping the flaps slightly, but with the way the hinge linkages are moulded, it would have been a nightmare - too many linkage angles/hinges/pivot points, and it would have weakened the entire assembly.

Poor health isn't great at any age, but I like aging. I was born in the forties. I am able bodied, heavier and slower, sure, but still independently ambulant.  Of course I feel lucky. Tomorrow I'll age another day. Good. And I agree that model making is therapeutic. It keeps my last brain cell on its toes too.

My om again off again relationship with modelling It'll be off for a while. at67 I've just encountered one of downsides of aging. in my case a stroke, Thankfully physically I'm fine, what has been effected is my eyeing and perception, so I'm having to start to read agar. I''s weird I can read words but turning them into a sentence and extracting the meaning from them is Very hard work. As you might imagine my fine motor skills are somewhat lacking , so no modelling for a while .. Dammit 
 
Sorry if this is a bummer , I'm off the road for at least a month , which considering the beautiful weather we have in Scotland at the moment is a real pain with the MX5 all road legal again - C'Est La Vie!
 
I apologise if some of this dosen't make a lot of sense, remember I can't proofread at the moment!
 
Colin Ritchie
PS One of the cats ran off last week just to add to Life's  woes
 
 

Thank you Hubert! Does spraying Aqua Gloss thinned with water keep the high shine finish of colors like Alclad Chrome intact?  Will have to test that out!
 
 
Thank you very much!
 
The decals have been sealed with a gloss coat so now it is time for the first weathering step.  I will be applying a pastel wash to highlight all of the recessed detail, including the rivets that were applied manually at the beginning of this build.  We'll start off with the undersides first.

 

You can make out the tonal variation of the Light Grey that was applied over the mottle pre-shade layer.  The gloss coat, thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner actually brought more of the pre-shading to the surface and I had to spray some more Light Grey to dial that effect back.

 

My pastel washes are homemade with scrapings from pastel chalks mixed with water... super simple and very effective.  I am choosing a grey color for the wash. The wash is run over all of the panel lines and rivets and allowed to dry.

 

The surface is then wiped with a damp cloth to remove the wash that is not stuck in the recessed areas.

 

I typically do the wash application sections at a time to keep track of where the wash has been applied and more importantly, where it needs to be removed from.  It's easy to lose track leave some wash unwiped, which really detracts from the overall presentation.





 

Before I continue the wash on the upper sides, it is time to fill in the Series number using my wee VII mask.

 

Thankfully, the Oramask 810 material is translucent, making it easier to place in the exact spot. Gotta be careful since the mask is going over a decal.

 

Such a small detail but it removes the nagging thought in my mind if I had left it as an erroneous "XIII".



 

Ok, on to the upper side pastel wash.  I'm going to try the same grey color that was used on the bottom.

 

The effect is noticeable but not too stark.  I think this will work.



 

I'm going to stop here and continue with the wash on the fuselage later.

Nice looking engine.

Not sure about masterpiece but that smoke ring camo will be checked off the bucket list! 
 
I'm sure it would be pretty easy to fabricate a jig to suit using 3D-printing, no?  The one I am using is classified for 1/48-1/32 scale aircraft so there is a bigger one (1/32-24) available...

 
The larger one can stretch from 150mm to 430mm (6"-17").  I measure mine and it stretches 3.7" to 11.6". Not quite the 1.78X you are looking for. These jigs are available at UMM-USA.
 
I want one like what Jeroen has...

 
 
 
Ahhh... got it!  Aqua Gloss + MLT does need care when using for sure.

If only Rich, that would be something!  PM inbound.
 
So the Sabre is at the stage now where it needs a coat of paint, probably 50 shades of grey and a bit of weathering, before adding the wiring looms and slotting into the bearers:
 









 
Unlike many models where the build can often become slightly easier the further on it progresses, this one is the opposite due to the need to keep adding pipes etc in increasing (or is that decreasingly) small spaces AND getting the attachment points correct each time.  But will it still fit in the bearing framework:
 





 
It's a tight fit, you have to breathe in, but yes....thankfully!

Thanks Rich!  Guess where I have been today:
 

















 
The Typhoon cockpit at the Jet Age museum at Gloucester is much more complete and accessible than when I last visited just over a year ago, a real thrill to get up close and personal with the real thing.  A Sabre engine would have completed things but that's not going to happen.
 
 

So with the engine kit comes the firewall and engine framework; my first concern was "would the profile of the firewall match the MDC interior shape or would it need lots of grinding away of excess resin?  I was in for a happy surprise:
 

 
With a bare minimum of sanding, things were looking promising.  Everything forward of the firewall is going to be cut away but I want to use much of the nose as panels maybe like this:
 

 
Some careful surgery is going to be needed.  The engine framework and bearers go together very well:
 



 
and the block sits well in place:
 

 
 

 
 

Looking forward to see you do your magic on this piece of clockwork, Max.
 
An interesting anecdote : the sleeve-valve mechanism of the Sabre required some very precise machining of the sleeves, which could only be achieved by US-made machines, manufactured by Ingersoll-Rand. The UK bought a few, which crossed the Atlantic aboard what was their fastest ship of the time, the Queen Mary.
By sheer luck, the bore of the Sabre was he same as another top-league engine worked on by Bristol at that time : the Centaurus. This saved the Centaurus, as Bristol were struggling to get reliable sleeve-valves fabrication.
 
Hubert

Predictably I got bored of making and painting cockpit parts, so have digressed…
 
I have tried to make the ailerons look fabric covered by using my tried and tested trick of masking off the areas between the ribs with tape, and then spray some high-build primer over the top which, when removed, leaves some subtly raised areas. It worked well for the elevators, so I’ve done the same here and with the rudder. 
 

I have also begun to tentatively splash a little paint - I’m trying to avoid using decals for this build as sprayed-on markings look better in this scale. I did think about sourcing a generic Lancaster decal sheet for the codes, etc., but have decided to make my own masks. Here, you can see I’ve laid down the first layer of ‘RAF roundel red’ from Xtracolor - and the finished rudder and ailerons:
 
 
If the weather stays fine I’ll paint the rest of the wing roundels before inevitably I’m going to have to finish the cockpit off.
 
More when there’s more…
Tom

This is the PE chart...lol for me it is ALOT...LoL.
 
and yes, i mean no i wont use figures, no dogs, no pinguins/seals from that....all are crazy flat (of course its PE), make em more fattier using CA or PVA...nope, wont ad those...looks ridicioulus LoL. look like they were run over with a steam roller....or from a crime scene investigation, you know with white tape around LoL.
 

 

Very Nice Tom hell lets say outstanding!!

I had a bit of a snafu with the pit the consoles I installed on the opposite sides making the front part of the fuselage not able to close by a 1/16".The other problem was I had glued the the fuse all the way to rear gunners position! I let the rookie mistake sit for a couple of days was looking at ordering another kit and Quintas??The idea came wet the seam down  a curve blade and start the seperation it was complete in 5/10 minutes with zero damage.Once I had the front portion of the pit out could see the consoles extending out beyond the IP.The Quinta's was carefully removed and sanding commenced  till it fit and then reassembly.The wings are now glued on just a little filler up front and below no biggee.
 

 

Looking good Mal I usually only weather above the waterline and lightly already moving out from me.

Hull is finnished....masked of the orangea area, so to finnish of with flat/matte coat only on the hull red ( dont use flat that much at all) its needed, as it will be displayed in dry dock.
 
This will do just fine for me.
 

 

 
forgot to ad, will in the last ad water rinning marks on the hull, apply gloss on a finetip brush.

I had a bit of a snafu with the pit the consoles I installed on the opposite sides making the front part of the fuselage not able to close by a 1/16".The other problem was I had glued the the fuse all the way to rear gunners position! I let the rookie mistake sit for a couple of days was looking at ordering another kit and Quintas??The idea came wet the seam down  a curve blade and start the seperation it was complete in 5/10 minutes with zero damage.Once I had the front portion of the pit out could see the consoles extending out beyond the IP.The Quinta's was carefully removed and sanding commenced  till it fit and then reassembly.The wings are now glued on just a little filler up front and below no biggee.
 

 

Thanks Mal should be a neat little crate when done only have this little 1/72 built maybe 30years ago......I thought it looked better but probably back then with single action Badger and hand painted camo on the sides