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VintageEagle

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  1. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Antonio Argudo in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Hi Damian,
     
    Thanks to your mini tutorial I managed to recreate the cover. I used a plastic tube, but followed your process after I removed the raised panel that Revell provided and rescribed the panel lines of the cover.
     
    I'll tested it first on a replacement wing and just completed the installation on the riveted wing. I'll have to sand and enlarge the hole diameter after the top of the wing is installed, but that will be easy. I am quite happy with the result. Below are some photos of the parts and result.
     
    The last photo (from my personal collection and hence the watermark) shows the cover on a real aircraft. The hole was actually quite big (almost as big as the wing root MG 151 hole in the wing's leading edge). 
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
     

     

     

     

  2. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from scvrobeson in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you all for your encouraging comments.
     
     
    nmayhew, I first remembered the same discussion that you mentioned, but could not find it anymore when I looked for it recently. Instead, I found the discussion posted by Damian, which basically states that the kit gear length is correct while Eduard got it wrong. I just compared wartime photos with the Eduard and Revell and Synthetic Ordnance Works legs, and I can definitely say that the Eduard legs (or oleo struts) are too short while the Revell/SOW legs look about right. I haven't taken any measurements, however. Below is a comparison (the scissor links are only loosely placed next to the SOW leg for comparison):
     

     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     
  3. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from GeeBee in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you Andy! By chance, I’ll not only be able to present a color photo of White 48 in Vol.2, but also the full story about how that 190 got to Lippstadt and who the pilot was! :-) 
     
    Cheers
    Roger
  4. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to D.B. Andrus in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Well done, Roger!
     
    Cheers,
     
    Damian
  5. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from scvrobeson in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Hi Damian,
     
    Thanks to your mini tutorial I managed to recreate the cover. I used a plastic tube, but followed your process after I removed the raised panel that Revell provided and rescribed the panel lines of the cover.
     
    I'll tested it first on a replacement wing and just completed the installation on the riveted wing. I'll have to sand and enlarge the hole diameter after the top of the wing is installed, but that will be easy. I am quite happy with the result. Below are some photos of the parts and result.
     
    The last photo (from my personal collection and hence the watermark) shows the cover on a real aircraft. The hole was actually quite big (almost as big as the wing root MG 151 hole in the wing's leading edge). 
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
     

     

     

     

  6. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to 109 in Pauke! Pauke! – NIGHTFIGHTER! Me 262 B-1a/U1 Red 12   
    Hi,
     
    added the wet transfers from HGW and a few dry transfers. Started weathering of the inner upper wings and forward fuselage sections ...
     
    Have a nice day!
     

     

     

  7. Like
    VintageEagle reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7   
    Thanks Les but I really don't know any specifics about the prop construction other than they were primarily wood.  I know the wood props on the D-9 had metal plated leading edges so it quite possible that the VS9's were constructed the same way but I chose not to replicate this.
     
    I finally got the radiator flaps and cowling into place.  It took some force and fidgeting to get it to seat right.  The clear parts have also been glued into place.  


     
    With all of the forward fuselage components in place, I wanted to check to make sure the HD prop looks ok when mounted.



     
    The canopy frames were painted in RLM 66 Dark Grey from the outside.

     
    The cowling has been primed with Mr Surfacer 1200.  The painting process can now begin!



  8. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from LSP_Kevin in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you all for your encouraging comments.
     
     
    nmayhew, I first remembered the same discussion that you mentioned, but could not find it anymore when I looked for it recently. Instead, I found the discussion posted by Damian, which basically states that the kit gear length is correct while Eduard got it wrong. I just compared wartime photos with the Eduard and Revell and Synthetic Ordnance Works legs, and I can definitely say that the Eduard legs (or oleo struts) are too short while the Revell/SOW legs look about right. I haven't taken any measurements, however. Below is a comparison (the scissor links are only loosely placed next to the SOW leg for comparison):
     

     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     
  9. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from airscale in 1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'   
    Hi Peter,
     
    Fantastic work! Regarding the suspected Ausgleichsgefäss an original installation guideline can be fond here:
     
    https://www.deutscheluftwaffe.com/archiv/Dokumente/ABC/a/Askania/Einbauvorschrift Variometer.pdf
     
    Note the similarity of the shapes.
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
  10. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from TwoHands in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you all for your encouraging comments.
     
     
    nmayhew, I first remembered the same discussion that you mentioned, but could not find it anymore when I looked for it recently. Instead, I found the discussion posted by Damian, which basically states that the kit gear length is correct while Eduard got it wrong. I just compared wartime photos with the Eduard and Revell and Synthetic Ordnance Works legs, and I can definitely say that the Eduard legs (or oleo struts) are too short while the Revell/SOW legs look about right. I haven't taken any measurements, however. Below is a comparison (the scissor links are only loosely placed next to the SOW leg for comparison):
     

     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     
  11. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Out2gtcha in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you all for your encouraging comments.
     
     
    nmayhew, I first remembered the same discussion that you mentioned, but could not find it anymore when I looked for it recently. Instead, I found the discussion posted by Damian, which basically states that the kit gear length is correct while Eduard got it wrong. I just compared wartime photos with the Eduard and Revell and Synthetic Ordnance Works legs, and I can definitely say that the Eduard legs (or oleo struts) are too short while the Revell/SOW legs look about right. I haven't taken any measurements, however. Below is a comparison (the scissor links are only loosely placed next to the SOW leg for comparison):
     

     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     
  12. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Thank you all for your encouraging comments.
     
     
    nmayhew, I first remembered the same discussion that you mentioned, but could not find it anymore when I looked for it recently. Instead, I found the discussion posted by Damian, which basically states that the kit gear length is correct while Eduard got it wrong. I just compared wartime photos with the Eduard and Revell and Synthetic Ordnance Works legs, and I can definitely say that the Eduard legs (or oleo struts) are too short while the Revell/SOW legs look about right. I haven't taken any measurements, however. Below is a comparison (the scissor links are only loosely placed next to the SOW leg for comparison):
     

     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Roger
     
  13. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Hi Damian,
     
    Thank you very much for this mini-tutorial. I tried the same with a plastic tube, but failed. An aluminium tube seem to be the better option as it is stronger. I'll give it another try, but will have to order a tube online first (all shops are still closed over here due to Covid) and I am not sure if I manage to align it so well as you did on your build. 
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
  14. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from nmayhew in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  15. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Kais in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  16. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from TAG in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  17. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Lothar in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  18. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from TAG in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
     
    Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
     
    One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
     
    Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  19. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Fanes in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  20. Like
  21. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from MikeMaben in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  22. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from LSP_Kevin in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  23. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from scvrobeson in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  24. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Uncarina in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. 
     
    Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). 
     
    Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. 
     
    Cheers, Roger
     
     
     

     

     

  25. Like
    VintageEagle got a reaction from Uncarina in 1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!   
    Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
     
    Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
     
    One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
     
    Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
     
    Cheers,
     
    Roger
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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