VintageEagle

Outstanding work! Looks fabulous. I wish my 190A will look only half as good when finished. 

Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
 
I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
 
First a look at the original:
 

 
Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
 
(1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

 
(2) Masks removed and surface polished:

 
(3) Decal stripes added:

 

 

 

Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
 
I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
 
First a look at the original:
 

 
Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
 
(1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

 
(2) Masks removed and surface polished:

 
(3) Decal stripes added:

 

 

 

Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
 
I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
 
First a look at the original:
 

 
Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
 
(1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

 
(2) Masks removed and surface polished:

 
(3) Decal stripes added:

 

 

 

Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
 
I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
 
First a look at the original:
 

 
Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
 
(1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

 
(2) Masks removed and surface polished:

 
(3) Decal stripes added:

 

 

 

Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet.
 
I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. 
 
First a look at the original:
 

 
Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller:
 
(1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied:

 
(2) Masks removed and surface polished:

 
(3) Decal stripes added:

 

 

 

Thanks guys!  It's been a struggle but here at the finish line, there isn't much evidence of the battles, which is a good thing.
 
 
Or I'll just show it in the stowed position.  That's probably how the fighter looked on the ground at most times anyway.
 
The last bits and pieces are being added.  The flaps are glued into place.  The attachment tabs had to be trimmed to account for the brass part that was used for the upper wings.  I chickened out on the brass flaps... I categorized the required folding as humanly impossible.

 
The landing lights were tiny bits of clear plastic that were painted transparent red and blue.  Also added at this stage were the delicate aileron/tab actuating arms.


 
Removal of the canopy masks is always a nervous time.  Didn't know what to expect, especially the way this model has fought me.  Outside of a little bit of overspray that was cleaned up with a wooden toothpick dipped in iso alcohol, the clear parts turned out ok.  In my effort to douse some of the frosty white that was starting to creep into the finish, the salt fading effects were greatly reduced.  You can just make out remnants of the technique in these photos.  You can also see some of the chipping I've added with a silver pencil.


 
The next time I show the entire airframe, I think it will be of the finished model.

ok, here we have the canopy, KM-1 ejection seat and the control stick.
Pitot tubes are already glued on the model.
 
 
Tomorrow the 23BN should be finished... i hope.
 
CIAO!
Piero

Hello,
 
I'm getting close to the end with my 23BN.
Still missing the KM-1 ejection seat, the canopy and pitot tubes... but almost there.
 
 
CIAO!
Piero
 

On a different note here is a shot of the wing to fuselage fit. As you can see it leaves  you with a massive gap ! Believe it or not this is as good as I could get the wing to fit. I could have used  excessive pressure to  close the gap and make a better join  ....... but this would have resulted in a really high and unnatural looking wing dihedral.  So I made the decision to fill the gap with super glue gel and scribe the panel line  (work not shown here yet )after sanding....... looks like I'm going to be doing quite a lot of that anyway.  I will probably use a plastic shim to close the hole in the wing root area of the leading edge slots. Eat your heart out Grand Canyon ! 
 

 
And  here is where she stands  at the moment....     
more updates soon , all the best,
Cheers Pete.
 

 
 

I was really happy with the way the cockpit turned out but shortly after that things started to go downhill. However, that being said things are starting to come back on track now.
 
The first symptoms of trouble started when I begun gluing the cockpit parts together.. The glue I used didn't react well with the plastic even after I had scrapped paint away from the contact areas. Due to this some of the parts were just slightly out of alignment when I attached them to the internal fuselage bulkheads. The forward bulkhead (which is also part of the undercarriage) did not fit well into the two fuselage halves. Sadly, this in turn seemed to hinder the  wing to fuselage fit which in its own  right is probably the worst aspect of the kit so far.  And yes I tested the wing to fuselage fit several times in vain before I even glued in the cockpit/wheel bay bulk heads.
 
These problems threw me off so badly that I even pulled out the A-1a fighter version of this kit from the stash to see where I had gone wrong. After cleaning up  the main parts and dry fitting them with tape  I was a little disappointed to find similar fit issues.  
 
Now, all that being said  don`t get me wrong I really like certain aspects of this kit and I think it has a lot of potential. And what a fantastic subject ! Unfortunately you will  just have to put in some skill and effort to deal with some of the problems it throws at you if you intend to build it to a high standard. So it`s not really a kit for the beginner or for the faint of heart........or for those of you like myself with profanity problems.
 
Below is a picture of the cockpit bulkhead. I wasn`t happy with my paint and weather job on this but it didn't matter as very little of it can be seen once installed. Coincidently I ended  up chopping large parts of the base off  just to get the wings to fit !
 

 
And here is the rear wheel bay bulkhead. The fit was a little tight but not as bad as the cockpit bulkhead. This part also received cutting and sanding modification to help it fit.
 

 
Ok I`ll leave you with that for now, thanks for listening,
Cheers,
Peter

Oh,I forgot to mention..... I still have to make the seat belts for which I`ll be using the HGW set, I really love these ! Fiddly but really worth the extra effort. The seat in the pics above is just sitting there loosely in the cockpit as I haven't cemented it yet.
 
Below you can see a pic of the Eduard P.E panel which I used instead of the kit part. I put a  grey wash over it to tone down and blend in that pixelated look that comes on the coloured P.E panel but it's still showing up a bit in this closeup shot. I also painted some Future onto the dial lenses after spraying a flat coat.
 

 
Cheers,
Peter
 

evening ladies
 
got a good session in over the weekend, so a bit more to show..
 
the prop blade root rings were laminated & assembled...
 

 
..not fixed yet, but slid on for size..
 

 
 
 
..and what they will look like on the prop..
 

 
..the floor parts were prepared, some are laminates and the one in the middle needed the rectangular pressing adding by first making a template and working some annealed litho..
 
the far left part is the firewall bulkhead..
 

 
..the base part for the rear canopy had a brass channel added to the back..
 

 
..this was then added and a little bit of P38 filler to just fair it in just right..
 
.the rough holes in the floor are just that - rough holes in the floor (to allow the proper holes to be see through)
 

 
..to make the pressing that is behind the seat and holds the baggage hatch, I made up a buck in thick plastic card so I could form a metal one over it..
 

 
..the first stage in forming - this is after a little hammering and pressing with wooden tools..
 

 
..and after finessing a bit...
 

 
..I actually decided to leave the part on the buck and integrate that into the model - here the floors have been fitted, but the seat bulkhead is just restiung in place..
 

 

 

 

 
..it's nice to get going now I have the PE - lots of little projects I can get on with..
 
TTFN
 
Peter
 
 

Good show.
 
Sincerely,
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks John. I now remember this set from years ago when I started the Trumpeter Me 262 (never finished it). At least some parts of it could be used for upgrading the Revell kit. Will check if it is still available.
 
That looks not bad. Have not yet seen any photos of the actual parts. I would probably repaint them to ensure the same grey on all cockpit parts. The cabin pressure gauge was never installed (except prototypes) and the engine instrument layout are for an early production Me 262. After simplification efforts at the end of 1944 the difference pressure gauges and oil pressure gauges were no longer installed. The red/white coloring of the instrument rings were only done in this way by JG 7 (I have copies of wartime documents that confirm this). The round counters and indicators underneath were only installed in early production aircraft. 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

I’ll check if I can find photos of the parts. Good to know that there is another option for the ip and seat!

I’ll check if I can find photos of the parts. Good to know that there is another option for the ip and seat!

Thanks John. I now remember this set from years ago when I started the Trumpeter Me 262 (never finished it). At least some parts of it could be used for upgrading the Revell kit. Will check if it is still available.
 
That looks not bad. Have not yet seen any photos of the actual parts. I would probably repaint them to ensure the same grey on all cockpit parts. The cabin pressure gauge was never installed (except prototypes) and the engine instrument layout are for an early production Me 262. After simplification efforts at the end of 1944 the difference pressure gauges and oil pressure gauges were no longer installed. The red/white coloring of the instrument rings were only done in this way by JG 7 (I have copies of wartime documents that confirm this). The round counters and indicators underneath were only installed in early production aircraft.