Jump to content

NukerDan

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    NukerDan got a reaction from daHeld in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    You've probably seen this, but here's a 360° cockpit view of her:
    https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156847319893623&id=192081688622
     
  2. Like
    NukerDan got a reaction from daHeld in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    Wow! Even the most seemingly inconsequential bits become works of art! Hats off to you!
  3. Like
    NukerDan got a reaction from daHeld in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    That looks great Peter! I always enjoy seeing your PE frets in design and after etch. So intricate and professional!
  4. Like
    NukerDan got a reaction from daHeld in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    Peter, I have a question:
    How true to scale is the kit fuselage you're using? What I Wonder is, when you're doing the drawings for PE and other parts, are you scaling them to absolute 1/18,or tweaking them slightly to fit any slight inaccuracies in the kit fuselage? Not sure if I'm making sense in my wording here, hopefully you get what I'm asking.
  5. Like
    NukerDan got a reaction from tomprobert in 1/32 Short Stirling   
    Love this! I don't envy the building of the undercarriage though! 
  6. Like
    NukerDan reacted to themongoose in F-100D Thunderbirds SIX Foiled Again - Finished!   
    Ooooh-hoooo I've somehow ended up with a good bit of aftermarket for this build! That's what brought it to the forefront for my next project. I've just found individual pieces for it cheap over the years and so I decided to go ahead and get the rest that's available for it. Check out the treasure chest I've amassed - 

    From Eduard I've got the self-adhesive placards, slats, air brake, undercarriage, and wheel well sets. 
    For cockpit choice I've got both the Verlinden and the Aires sets to work from. The Aires set I picked up at Nationals a few years ago. last day, last hour and they had the whole table 50% off. Couldn't pass it up. The aires set has canopy and wheel well upgrades in addition to the engine details. It looks pretty good. Honestly I don't know which cockpit tub I'll go with as they both look crisp. Will have to check accuracy for my bird and make a decision.
    Thats a master Pitot tube in there along with the Zacto nose enhancement for a facelift.
    Then lastly I was looking at all the Eduard pieces and just didn't like the fuselage PE they had. It all sticks off the surface too much. That's when I remembered seeing an email about Archer Fine Transfers announcing a new sheet. I used their hatches, hinges, and other resin bits on my T-38A and now they have redone the sheet at 1/2 the thickness of the original. This should do perfectly for the access hatches, fuel doors and the like on this AC. I'll post details up on this as soon as possible. I don't think I've seen a review on them yet.
     
    There's been alot of these Huns done and I think I have every one of them on a separate tab on my ipad for review as I get going. Given that, I plan to post fewer mid-term updates as most people have seen it all on these. I'll try sticking to the finished assemblies and just post up some details on the new stuff, like the Archer panels and the foiling, especially the Titanium tail and the archetypical bluing and burnt metal look they have!
     
  7. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Starfighter in 1/32 ERA-3B Skywarrior - 3D printed / scratchbuilt   
    I am sadly stuck with my MH-53E at the moment - I haven't found a source selling litho plate for a reasonable price over here in Europe (buying it in the US would mean very high shipping cost), so I have to build something else.
     
    The choice fell upon the project which lost out to the MH-53E when I had to decide what to built earlier this year: an ERA-3B Skywarrior. I have a soft spot for electronic warfare aircraft and esoteric subjects, so the ERA-3B is just perfect as only 8 of them were built (converted from RA-3B). Two of them had the late CLE wing (BuNo 146446 and 146447); the idea is to build one of these 2 in the early configuration with the long canoe under the fuselage. 
     

     
    I have printed the main components last year already. It's quite a big beast. It's basically an A-3B, so several changes are necessary to convert it into an ERA-3B. 

     
    The A-3B is a "bomber" whilst the ERA-3B is based on the RA-3B, which is a so-called "version". There are several differences such as thicker canopy framing, different main wheels, no bomb bay, different APU exhausts and the entry hatch being located closer to the front landing gear bay on the versions.  
     
    Here you can see the re-located opening for the entry hatch.

     
    The nose profile was modified as the nose of the CAD file was too pointed. One of the APU exhausts was already installed as well.

     

     
    The cockpit has to be built from scratch. I have made a cut to insert the bulkhead between the cockpit and the ECM operator compartment which is located in the former camera bay. 

     
    The typical tail extension was drawn in CAD and 3D printed. There were at least three differently shaped tails, this one being the "early" version. It contained a chaff dispenser. 

     

     
    The ERA-3B carried ALQ-76 pods which were also used by the EA-6A Intruder. Whilst externally similar to the ALQ-99 carried by the EA-6B, it is completely different in shape and overall dimensions. Luckily, Angelo Romano's excallent book on the Electronic Aggressor Squadrons provided the dimensions to enable me to draw the pod in CAD. More details will be added before it'll be printed; I'll probably use Eduard's PE parts for the heat sink radiators, just like Rich did in his excellent EA-6A conversion thread. 

     
    The canoe was drawn and printed as well; it initially was too short but has been lengthened in the meantime. 

     
    That's where I am at the moment; I hope this one continue to run smoothly - I'd love to finish this one until end of 2020 which would mean a new record for me. We'll see! 
     
     
     
     
  8. Like
    NukerDan reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    thanks folks & Jay, thanks so much for all the research
     
    I have 1 & 1/16 inch from skin to lug and the door seems to sit right - at least it does on dry runs, I will have to fettle it when I put it all together
     
    So Telford was great, really enjoyed it and we did very well on our stand - thanks to those who dropped by
     
    Since being back, I have managed a few bits & bobs - first the outer gear doors..
     
    I made blanks of the doors in rigid nickel silver and fashioned the internal pressing shape from 3mm plastic card - it is profiled in many different directions and is actually quite a complex shape...
     

     
    ..these were then fitted and litho annealed and formed around them...
     

     
    ..and completed with the mounts for the lugs that fit to the leg, and the sealing strip along the bottom edge..
     

     

     
    ..then it was on to some wing bits & bobs.. the guns were fitted..
     

     

     
    ..they are just dry fitted for now, so some fettling to do..
     
    then onto the wing nav lights - these were shaped & polished from perspex samples - the blue is a bit dark, but it's all I have... also added the wing stiffeners near the ailerons on the upper wing, though some of the alclad came off with the tape I used to mount them so they need respraying..
     
    upper side..
     

     
    lower side...
     

     

     

     
    ..have also finished the spinner & prepped & painted the prop blades so hope to have the prop done next..
     
    TTFN
     
    Peter
     
     
  9. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Maw1963 in 1/24 Airfix F6F-5 “for dummies”   
    Gentlemen, let me introduce myself and my Airfix 1/24th scale F6F-5 building. A lot of words have been written about this kit, a lot of reviews are on the web, and yes, a lot of building threads as well, no doubt: this kit is the hot kit of the day.
    I will not add pictures of the box or of sprues because they are well known, but I will dive soon into building. Being it my first thread, and my first time with a 1/24th scale I will appreciate any suggestion and criticism to enhance my work, they are welcome.
    Airfix has done a very good job with this kit, IMO, and most important thing, has left to us a lot of details to deal with and to add, in a word a lot of fun.
    My start is obviously from the cockpit and the first impression is that it is big, really big. Installing the P&W 2800 radial engine with its 1,34mt (52 inch) of diameter, US airplanes were large, if compared to the narrow airplanes wearing an in-line engine like the DB family, and result was a comfortable and roomy cockpit.
    I started with removing all moulding lines and preparing pieces for extra detailing, then I moved one area at time to do my job, trying to had as many details as I could.

    First of all, I removed all the plumbing lines and replaced them with lead wire and plastic card. Lead wire is a wonderful product but is very delicate and very easy to damage with pliers if you don’t pay attention, some time it’s sufficient a grim look to damage it, so I drilled holes where the clamps are, then fixed rods to reproduce clamps themselves and wrapped the first line gluing sturdily just to have a referring point and completed with all the others lines. If you pay attention with ca glue, you can do a very clean and nice work, not my case indeed, but I am quite satisfied with it.

     





    Pedals were detailed as well, cutting the side cylinder from structure, replacing the lower support with copper wire of the right size and moreover spacing them form the pedals, as you can see on the real bird. A simple job but I think very necessary and quite effective.

     

    Side consolles have been detailed too. Airifix has done a nice work here, and IMO, meaures, volumes and general appearance of these parts are good. I only reworked some particular that was over sized, sanding to size and reshaping where it was necessary. I think pictures can tell the story better than me



    Photoectched parts are from Airscale 1/24 wonderful set, of course, but IMO it represents more a F6F-3 cockpit than a F6F-5, or better to say, it reproduces both versions.  I will try to explain. Central console is provided with heater control panel and fluorescent light panel, I mean decals and holes on the panels. According to my documentation this is a feature of -3, not -5, where these panels were moved to the right console. Not a big problem, I filled the holes with putty and sanded smooth.
    On the other hand, just the right console has the heather switch and radio master switch, 22a and 90 in the picture, in form of holes on photoetched part for these, typical of -5.
    Airscale has done a smart job, IMO, leaving all the opportunities to modeler.


    As I was working in this area I made from scratch the sliding hood control  and added some lead wire here and there. I have not completed the parts with all details I want, however, as I will add them later, after the painting session.

     
    To be able to close the airframe, I focused on the tail, and I found this area not completely satisfactory. First of all, I felt the necessity to resize the arresting hook case, adding some sprue. I made from scratch the two missing internal frames, trying to replicate the real thing as better as I could, and reshaped the original frame to accommodate the longer arresting hook. I apologize for the crude picture of parts with blurs and dirty, I had not realized how they were until I watched on the screen, and I cleaned everything before final assembling. The raw side surface of main frame is due to several “wet fit” with plastic glue while preparing the parts.

    After a full Monday afternoon of cutting, measuring, sanding and gluing I finished my job, and I realized that not much of it will be visible when everything will be painted in dark blue and airframe closed.  I will try with different shades of blue, but I not so convinced. Well, what can I say? I am a modeler, and modellers just want to have fun, and I had.
    If the bird was a -3  with a three tones camouflage and white undersides and internal surfaces, well, it would have been nicer. A good exercise for the next Hellcat? Why not, I am sucker for a three tones bird. As the job is not perfect at all, acceptable for a “dummy” I would say, dark blue finish will be very forgiving.
     
    I installed Aerocraft 1/24 rear landing gear at this stage because I wanted a tight fit with epoxy glue. Only some minor preparing was necessary, and some thinning of casted pins, a normal job.
     What to say about Aerocraft set? It is very nice, beautifully casted and most important thing SOLID. IMO it is an indispensable set due to the weight of the finished model and the softness of plastic Airfix used for this kit.
    Well I am, almost, ready for painting now. Some black primer to check faults and Interior Green a gogo.
    I hope you will enjoy pictures and more soon to come, stay tuned.
    Thank you for watching,
     
  10. Like
    NukerDan reacted to USMC Herc in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    Acid Etching / Metal Conditioning to Paint Aluminium 
     
     
    Introduction
    Before primer and paint will adhere properly to a metal surface, it must be etched. Etching is a process that removes oxidation and microscopically roughens the surface. The accepted practice is to use a phosphoric acid etch. However, many commercial process use an alkaline etch on aluminum then follow up with an acid etch to de-smut the surface. The risk of using an alkaline etch is that the alkaline salts will be left behind causing corrosion sites to develop. In any case, the goal is to remove oxidation and roughen the surface.
    Another conditioning step is often done on aircraft aluminum. This step is a chromate conversion coating often called Alodine, although this is a trade name. The conversion coating helps protect the aluminum from corrosion in the field, and it also helps with paint adhesion.
    Etching
    Acid etching is a fairly simple process. For aircraft aluminum, phosphoric acid is the normal chemical used. Phosphoric acid is fairly safe in the concentrations used for etching, although if any gets on your skin it will burn and should be rinsed off. By the way, phosphoric acid is what give Coke and Pepsi their acidic taste or bite.
    You can purchase acid etch from various sources including Aircraft Spruce (Alumiprep), welding supply stores, and Home Depot and Lowes (a Jasco product that looks green). However, it is recommended to avoid the stuff from Jasco. It will work, but it does not list any surfactants in the ingredients list. Alumiprep and the stuff from welding supply stores contain surfactants, usually ethylene glycol and phosphates (typical ingredient in laundry detergent, at least it was typical). The surfactants are important to emulsify any remaining oil, dirt, and metal removed during etching process.
    Although you can buy acid etch off-the-shelf, for doing an entire airplane you may need larger quantities. Local chemical supply stores will often sell you what you need - 75% phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol. Sometimes the minimum quantity is 5 gallons, which may be in excess of $300. Sell the left over (a lot) to your local aircraft mechanics. Alumiprep and other off-the-shelf etching compounds will also contain hydroflouric acid. While this will also act to etch aluminum, its probable main use is to act as a brightener. Because this acid is not as safe as phosphoric acid, if making your own brew it is not recommended you purchase this. The phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol will do just fine. Mix one part acid, one part glycol, and one part distilled water for a 30% etch solution. Add 2.3 parts water to 1 part 30% solution for a 10% solution. Alumiprep ships at 30%, and sometimes you may want 30% for the really tough stuff. 10% is sufficient for most work.
    Don't try to etch everything at once. Pick a relatively small area and work that to completion. Spray or sponge on the etch, and lightly scrub with fine (green) or very fine (grey) Scotch Brite. It will take a little practice to realize when enough is enough, but the real test is when you rinse the etch off. The water should form a break-free surface if the metal is etched properly. Because acid is consumed during the etching, you will need to spray additional etch on occasionally as you scrub the surface.
    Because etching exposes fresh aluminum with lots of microscopic surface area that is easily oxidized, it is best to immediately follow up with the next conditioning process.
    Aluminum Conversion Coating
    All aluminum parts should be conversion coated for corrosion protection and good paint adhesion.
    The traditional conversion coat for aluminum is Alodine. Alodine is really just chromic acid. In powder form, it is an oxidizer and needs to be handled and stored carefully. Chromic acid uses the hexavalent form of chromium, which is known to be carcinogenic.
    For this reason, safer trivalent forms have been developed. One such product is Aluminescent. This supposedly a drop-in replacement for Alodine and meets the same milspec. However, it is quite finicky. pH must be kept within a certain range using potassium hydroxide and sulfuric acid (both are nasty) and a supply of pH indicating strips, the temperature must be above 70F, and it is difficult to tell if the conversion coat has been formed since it is a clear, although iridescent, coating. The color of the iridescence depends on the alloy of aluminum. While this may be Ok in a controlled production environment, this simply is too much for a shop environment. For these reasons, many users that have tried Aluminescent have switched back to Alodine.
    Alodine comes in either a liquid or powder form. For an entire airplane, buy the powder. You can mix it as strong as you like. Alodine can be sprayed, brushed, or sponged onto large surfaces. The surface must remain wet for several minutes or until a light to dark golden brown develops. Alodine should not be allowed to dry on the surface because of the salts it contains. If this happens, the surface should be re-wet with Alodine. Smaller pieces that can be immersed into a plastic tub of Alodine often take less time. After the conversion process is complete, the part needs to be thoroughly rinsed with water. It is often recommend that the parts be primed within 3 days of the conversion coating. However, the reason for this is uncertain.
     
    Information from Bondline.ORG
  11. Like
    NukerDan reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    thank you folks - you are too kind
     
    carrying on with the wing fillets - the borders are laid out with tape to rub soft metal into to get the shapes in 3D after translating the plan profiles..
     

     
    ..taped down & burnishing..
     

     
    ..the forwardmost fillet is one piece and very difficult - there was nothing for it but to have a go at bashing some ali into shape - itv soon kinked and creased and took a lot of work to get even half right...
     

     
    ..you can see here how the material just wouldn't do what was needed and split in one place - no matter I thought I could let in a piece here - this had any inner creases filed down to give it the best chance of truly flattening out when fixed..
     

     
    ..still working it..
     

     
    ..and finished & with fixings.. it's not perfect, but good enough for me..
     

     
    ..same on the other side..
     

     
    ..the PE arrived for the front vents so I could do this panel too - another tricky one..
     
    ..first step was to add the vent structure and then make the front seam of the panel meet the nose intake casting... the rest of the panel lines could be dealt with with overlaps being removed..
     

     
    ..with both panels & the vents added..,. the fasteners are added, but not yet all the riveting..
     

     

     

     
    ..and the nose is pretty much coming together..
     

     

     

     

     
    ..still lots to do despite it looking quite complete...
     
    TTFN

    Peter
  12. Like
    NukerDan reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    hello again fellow modellers
     
     
     
    Hi Jay - it's just a cheap Chinese one, but seems perfectly adequate for my needs - I just need to learn how to use it
     

     
     
     
     
    Ahh - that is one good looking Spit - but having done one, I doubt I will do another (especially as it was my favourite Mark..)
     
     
     
    They are really useful - thanks Chek, I have lots of resto shots, but very, very few of it actually finished so these are brilliant!
     
    ..I have been away much of the week, so just a little more done - but each part is one more step towards completion!
     
    ..firstly, the control column was finished & painted - I just need to work out what to make the canvas gaiter from as all the materials I have the weave is over scale..
     

     

     
    ..and dry fitted in place..
     

     
    ..next, the rudder pedals... these are in Lopes Hope... a very obvious feature is the writing on the faces
     

     
    ..this was taken care of by making PE parts - here the rounded shape is being imparted by taping & rolling over some brass rod..
     

     
    ..soon the base pedals were made..
     

     
    ..then a kit of parts assembled, including the forks that hold them..
     

     
    ..I checked and only the bottom of the assembly can be seen, so all the upper gubbins was pretty much ignored..
     

     
    ..and these were then painted and some light scuffing - washes & weathering will come much later...
     

     
    ..thats it for now..
     
    TTFN
    Peter
  13. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Haven't had a single moment of modeling time since the wedding, but now that we are back and unpacked, I had a chance to look at the base that finally arrived for the F-104. This is from the same company I used prior that worked out so well for my Extra 300 (base was partially ruined by my own hand, but no fault of the manus).
    Anyway, this is a custom made base, 3/4" top beveled 6" x 12" in heavy black acrylic. Its quite heavy, and should work well for the 104 since most of the weight will be toward the middle/back of the model.
    I had the company I purchased the base from drill a 7/8" hole (same exact size as the clear support rod) at a 40 deg angle in the base before they ever sent it to me. I was not sure it could be done cleanly by a professional let alone myself, so they agreed to try to have it drilled prior to payment, and it worked out wonders, as they shop they had do it, obviously did it with some precision, as there is no scaring, scratching or any other obvious blemishes from the drilling (dirt and oil from my hand of course, that wipes off easy):
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    The clear rod that I will use to support the model once done, fits like a glove into the hole they drilled. This also gives you a decent idea of what the AOA will be on the finished model:
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    The clear rod of course will be cut off flush with the bottom of the base as dictated by the F-104s fuselage and how much of the "exhaust" I want showing, and how tall I want the overall model when finished. It wont be short that's for sure!! 
     
    I'm really anxious to get back to the bench and have a go at a full lighting test with the 9V.

    Cheers till your older!! 
     
  14. Like
    NukerDan reacted to tchwrma in 1/32 Tamiya P-51 - One Unusual project   
    Anyway, let's go to the 1st photos:

    some afters available for assembly. Not everything will be used, of course.
     

     
    To start, the cockpit. In this airplane, as in most of the restored, The cockpit is biplace. On some airplanes, the rear cockpit is a fully functioning front end mirror.
    At Red Dog it's different. The rear cockpit contains only the seat for the guest, and nothing else.
    But even then there are modifications to be made.
    Here the parts of the original kit and side cockpit:
     

     

     
    This side is very different from the original, who requires some scratch:
     

     

     
    The two sides of the kit.
     

     
    The cockpit floor, modified by scratch:
     

     

     
    A finding on the choice of this particular plane:
    Because it's a brand-new airplane, there's no dirt or grime to play with, and the cockpit is all bright.
    Outside, too. Not a wash I can do, because in the photos I have, everything is clean.
     
    Now, the wings. The P-51 wings not have rivets shown in the wings, and the modeler usually shows only some lines, present in the original planes.
    But in this plane, none of the lines appears. All of them was hidden, and the wings show only the ammo doors and a feu access panels.
     

     

     

     
    Looking at the photos I was in doubt whether the wings were painted light gray or alumilac.
    These photos helped show me that the wings are painted in alumilac:
     

     

     

     
    Then I covered the wings with Tamiya white putty, diluted in Lacquer thinner, and then sanded them in several grains of sandpaper, to cover what should not appear. It's a shame because the rivets and panel lines are finely represented in the Tamiya kit. But there was no other way.
     

     

     

     
    I painted and finished the instrument panel from te kit's parts, but decided not use them. I will assemble the PE panel, to see if it more suitable.
     

     
    For now, is this. More to come
     
    Paulo.
     
     
  15. Like
    NukerDan reacted to patricksparks in Airfix Mosquito Conversion to MK XVI   
    I have been waiting for Airfix to come out with a bomber variant if their kit, but it hasn't happened so I figured I would go ahead and do it on my own. I haven't wanted to spend a fortune on a kit that I was going to be cutting major parts off and I just happen to find the answer on ebay. A seller had a kit that had been damaged in shipping and listed it with photos of the bags and the instruction manual with all the parts circled on the individual trees that were damaged, nothing looked really bad so I went ahead and bought it at a really good price. I had to laugh when I finally got to see the kit first hand, ironically the most damaged parts were the very front of the nacelles which were to be removed anyway !!! Good karma..
    Last week I knocked out a pattern to form the 2-stage Merlin nacelles and the lower intake, also I made a pattern for a bomber nose, things are moving along pretty smoothly so far...
     






     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  16. Like
    NukerDan reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    morning folks
     
     
    Hi Jay - the wheels & tyres are 3D modelled already, just tweaking the design with some help as the treads and the flat spot are a bit too complex for my limited knowledge
     
     
     
    ..thanks KUROK - the Awl set I have has about 25 sizes from a pinprick to about 1.5mm in diameter - the slot for the screw is then added with  a scalpel blade point ground down to a tiny flat blade..
     
    ..I set myself a target of getting the wings skinned before I go back to work tomorrow, and it is pretty much done..
     
    ..I went by this factory photo of where the filler was used on the leading edge (posted under fair use) and as can be seen, it does not extend to the wingtip so that panel was left detailed..
     

     
    ..a tape template for the main panel..
     

     
    ..and after annealing the leading edge and some fine fettling to fit all the rear panels the skin is added...
     

     
    ..a piano hinge was added to the forward gun door by scoring lines on a sheet of litho and bending it double so the edge is upright - this was let into a slot in the wing..
     

     
    ..the gear leg mount access panel & gun ports..
     

     

     
    ..and the basis of the wings is done..
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ..getting there...
     
    TTFN
    Peter
  17. Like
    NukerDan reacted to tomprobert in 1/48th Boeing B-52H Stratofortress   
    Sweet Jesus! Is that a kit or a scratch-build? I want one!
     
    On to my small (by comparison) project...
     
     
    I've been making the most of my Easter holidays and have done some more work to the fuselage of the BUFF...
     
    I've cut out the area for the kit's transparencies and have added the kit-supplied flightdeck flooring - there'll be plenty of detail to add here but this will all come later when the main construction is done:
     
    IMG_0894 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    I've also continued to add the numerous vents, intakes and grilles on the forward fuselage:
     
    IMG_0895 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    IMG_0896 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    I've also make and attached the wing spars to the fuselage structure:
     
    IMG_0900 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    The wings will slide over these spars when the fuselage is joined:
     
    IMG_0893 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    I had a quick test-fit of the wings - I'm going to need a larger table...
     
    IMG_0887 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr
     
    Nearly time to join the fuselage halves - lots of tabs to add to the fuselage halves to aid with gluing and I should be good to go!
     
    Until next time,
     
    Tom
  18. Like
    NukerDan reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch. Oct 3/19. Finished!   
    April 8/19
     
     
    I’ve been a bit distracted lately, but I did get a chance to work on the wings.  Like much of the kit parts, they are a bit lumpy, the surface is slightly rough and the rivet detail is shallow and bit wide.  Without adding a dark wash, it’s hard to photograph, so you’ll just have to take my word for it.
     
     

     
     
    After giving the wings the same “Chuck” treatment I’ve given the rest of the model, the detail is much better and smoother.  This will be critical later for a smooth gloss black finish.  Also, rivet patterns were added according to references, top and bottom.
     
     

     
     

     
     
    The bottom of the wings are a lot more complicated.
     
     

     
     
    Here are the key things you should do if you follow my lead. 
    1 The outer join does not exist, so it should be filled and sanded smooth, then a nose-like panel line scribed across it as shown.
    2 The other join on the LEX is OK and should stay, but be re-scribed.
    3 The gear bay walls should be glued securely to the top of the wing, because that’s all that’s holding on to the very weak landing gear legs.
    4 If you aren’t using the inner pylons, do not open the holes as shown in the instructions in Step #19, while the outer pylon holes- which are already open- should be filled if you’re not using them.  Rather than just fill them with CA glue, I used styrene rod to create pylon anchor points or plugs with more detail, as found on the real deal.
     
     

     
     
    And this is all that’s holding the gear legs in place:  Two tiny slots.  Yikes!  While fairly accurate, they are fairly weak.  All the more reason to put them on at the very end of the build, like I usually do anyway.
     
     

     
     

     
     
    The wing to fuselage join isn’t horrible, but it’s not plug and play either.  While a chore to fix, this is more common in modeling than it’s not, so no big deal.  Again, a lot of those crooked ghost panel lines should disappear after a coat of paint (fingers crossed).
     
     

     
     
     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  19. Like
    NukerDan reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch. Oct 3/19. Finished!   
    Thanks Guys!
     
    I have been asked how I use CA glue as a filler in the other forum, especially when panel lines and rivet detail is enhanced or restored.  Although I’ve written tutorials on this subject before, I can’t find them, so here’s a new updated one that I will share here as well.
     
    Using CA Glue as a Filler
     
    I have been using Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue as a filler for many years and more recently, about 90% of the time over traditional modeling putties. I use CA glue on every single join of my models, to make sure there are no gaps to be found later.   While putty still has its place, CA glue has the following advantages over putty:
     
     
    1)  Drying time is quick to immediate, especially if you use an accelerator.
     
    2)  Since it dries harder, it sands finer- but sanding must be done within an hour or two of drying.  Left to cure overnight, it will become much harder than the plastic, making sanding difficult.
     
    3)  As a glue, it strengthens joins while it fills them.
     
    4)  Panel lines can be created or re-scribed over CA glue with a smooth finish, which you can't do with putty.  Again, this should be done within a short time after drying.
     
    5)  CA glue doesn’t shrink as it dries, so what you see is what you get after drying.
     
    6)  Tell tale flaws can be detected with strong lighting, allowing immediate repair.
     
     
    CA Glue Properties.  The first point I stole from the internet, which explains it better than I could.
     
    1)  CA glue can only bond with a surface when there is moisture present. This means if the CA glue is placed on a perfectly dry surface, it will not stick to the surface or form a bond.  In contrast, when any amount of moisture is present, the molecules in the glue will react with the moisture to form tight chains in between the two surfaces in contact. This reaction generates heat and occurs instantly, which differs from traditional glue bonding that occurs by evaporation of the base fluid. 
     
    2)  Due to the above, thinner glues dry much faster than thicker glues, because more of the surface area to volume of glue is exposed to moisture.  For the same reason, glue in moist air dries quicker than dry air.
     
    3)  Over time, thin CA glues get thicker, which is why I only buy thin glues and have a variety of new and older glues on hand resulting in a variety of viscosities.
     
    4)  Thin and thick CA glues can be mixed, to create a custom viscosity that you might need for a particular application.
     
    5)  CA glues don’t shrink very much, if at all, so only use what you need.
     
     
    CA Glue Tools of the Trade.  Although mostly obvious, this is what you need:
     
    1)  The right brand and viscosity of CA glue.  I’ve found that not all CA glue works the same and some are better than others.  I’m using Mercury M5 glue right now, because I know how it works and what to expect.  To get the right viscosity, just mix some thin and thicker glues together until you get what you need.  For most applications, I use thin glue only with no mixing.
     
    2)  CA glue accelerator.  You often want the glue to dry immediately, so the application of an accelerator will do that, but again, some are better than others.  I used to use an accelerator that worked very quickly, but it also made the glue shrink and shrivel leaving bubble marks and it attacked paint.  The one I use now is much milder to use and does not harm paint if it is removed quickly.
     
    3)  CA glue remover, or “Debonder”.  Sometimes the glue doesn’t go where you want it and needs to be removed without sanding.  Great Planes Debonder is the very best there is and it won’t harm the plastic like some other debonders.
     
    4)  Applicator Microbrush.  Depending on the application and viscosity of the glue, I use either a very small microbrush (usually white), or the tip of the microbrush with the brush removed.  Bought in bulk, these brushes cost only pennies apiece and I use and throw away dozens of them on every model.
     
    5)  Glue container, that is plastic and relatively deep.  Quite by accident I discovered that the cap to a small spray bottle can hold CA glue in a liquid form up to 24 hours.  Glue left on an open flat surface will dry quickly because it is exposed to air moisture, but for some reason glue in this type of container dries very slowly and the glue remains in a liquid form for several hours of glue application.
     
    6)  Sandpaper, both #400 and #1000 Tamiya equivalent grits.  I say “Tamiya equivalent” grit, because one brand of #400 sandpaper will often be quite different than another brand of #400 sandpaper, which might be too coarse.
     
    Other than the glue accelerator (I’ll find the brand name later), here’s a pic of what I currently use:
     
     

     
     
    The Filling Procedure
     
    To fill a seam or join like I’ve done above, the first thing to do is to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) to join the parts together, then ooze a good layer of this cement into the join to swell the plastic and close the gap.  The goal here is to get good adhesion and natural filling without the use of CA glue.  This doesn’t have to be neat along the join at all, but avoid getting any cement in fine detail.  Let this dry for a minimum of 24 hours, or 48 hours if you used a lot of glue.  You want it dry and as hard a possible for sanding.
     
    When the TETC has dried properly, sand the join smooth using #400 sandpaper until it is flush, then remove the sanding dust with whatever works the best for you.  I use compressed air, a clean microbrush and sometimes solvent on a rag to get all the dust out of the join.
     
    Dipping a microbrush into the CA glue container (not the bottle) and holding the surface horizontal so that the glue won’t drip, apply a thin bead of glue along the seam.  The goal is to totally fill the seam, plus about 10%, to get the top of the glue slightly higher than the surface of the plastic.  Let this dry for a few minutes, then apply glue accelerator with another microbrush along the seam next to the glue itself, but not directly on it.  Tip the parts allowing the accelerator to contact the CA glue and wait about a minute.  The glue will begin to harden on the surface.  When this has happened, apply more accelerator to the glue itself, which should harden completely within seconds.  Wipe off all accelerator with a dry rag.
     
           Note:  Thick CA glues take longer for the accelerator to dry them and they may be dry on the surface, but not internally.  Let thick glues dry much longer before sanding.
     
    Again using #400 sandpaper, sand down the seam so that it’s flush.  Ideally, you have CA glue within the seam and not on the plastic on either side.  Using a strong light, check the seam for shiny spots.  These spots are low areas or bubbles where the glue has not been sanded yet.  Depending on the application, either sand down further or using a microbrush tip (without brush), apply a tiny drop of glue to these areas, add accelerator, then sand again.
     
    When you are happy that the seam has been filled properly, use #1000 grit sandpaper and smooth the entire seam and surrounding areas to create a super smooth surface.  This takes a lot of time and a lot of sandpaper to get it right.
     
    You can now apply or restore panel lines with a scriber and do the same thing for rivets with a needle in a pin vice.  Do it within an hour of applying the CA glue, so that it’s not too hard.  The glue is slightly harder than the plastic, so take care to dig a little bit more within the glue than the plastic to ensure a uniform panel line or rivet.  If you screw up- and you will- apply another drop or two of CA glue and do it all over again.  I have scribed and refilled the same panel line multiple times before I got it right and after some paint, you can’t see any flaws.
     
     
    HTH,
    Chuck
  20. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Woody V in Trumpeter F4F-3 build with rivets FINISHED!   
    Finally got a coat of primer on but there were problems, of course. One I gotta’ own myself because the model sat on the bench for a couple weeks and picked up dust. No big deal, I’ll just wipe it down with some IPA and use a paper towel that someone told me is “lint free”. Long story short, It's not and I didn’t realize how much lint was on it until I started priming. So I had to stop and tediously remove all the lint I could fine, which went okay.
     
    THEN! My completely clean airbrush started clogging and spit out a few chunks. At this point I’m like “the hell with it” and soldiered on clearing the occasional clog. I knew the airbrush was clean so just to see what would happen I filtered some with an ancient filter funnel I’ve had for 40 years and sure enough the primer has chunks in it. Lesson learned. 
     
    It could have been a lot worse but now I have to do some sanding to get rid of the problem areas.

    See those five dots in the filter screen? Those are chunks of primer and they do not pass harmlessly through an airbrush. I guess I’ll be filtering my paint from now on.
     
    Enough whining, this is what everyone seems to be waiting for.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Comments and critiques are always welcome. Don’t be shy - an honest critique is a catalyst for improvement.
     
     
  21. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Woody V in Trumpeter F4F-3 build with rivets FINISHED!   
    Finally got my cataract surgery over with so I haven’t had much time to work on it, but did spend a lot of time tying up lots of loose ends like getting the bottom of the fuselage buttoned up. While I'm on the subject, if you're considering cataract surgery don't put it off another day. The procedure is quick, totally painless and you will not believe the results.... it's life changing. EVERYTHING is better; colors are brighter, contrast is sharper and my vision in both eyes is 20-20 now and for the first time in 40 years I don't need glasses except for reading.
     
    Had to do some shimming on the center piece between the fuselage haves to close up the gap there. Not sure why that didn’t fit but whatever. Some filling and sanding around the exhaust opening needed but that’s to be expected.
     
    One other thing to mention if you build one of these - don’t glue the landing gear assembly on until the instructions tell you to. I’ve had to make some foam blocks to keep the model from resting on that flimsy assembly.
     

     
    Also cobbled up a new gunsight based on the kit part and a photo I found in my reference material. Unfortunately, not all reference material is equal and this may not be correct but it’s done and I’m going to use regardless. I actually bought a resin one from a company who shall remain nameless but it was so bad I returned it for a refund.
     

     
    Perhaps I’m being a bit anal but I always cringe when I watch videos of guys painting a model while they hold it in their hand. Maybe you can get away with this with acrylics but not gonna’ happen with enamels so I made a fixture so I can hols the model while painting without touching it. The tube is just large enough for an Exacto knife handle can fit inside it. That will be taped onto the plastic tube and the metal blade handle will be clamped ib a Panavise while the paint dries.
     

     
    Construction is pretty simple and is held onto the model by slipping it over the place where the engine goes. It’s held in place with some pins made from .040” Evergreen rod that’s had one end heated and mashed down to form a head.
     

     

     
    A big THANK YOU to Juggernut (Tim) sending me the pilot figure from a Tamiya Corsair, and being a bit of a goof ball I couldn’t resist having a little fun with it.
     

     
    She’s just about ready for paint so hopefully my next update will be what everyone seems to be waiting for - the ‘Cat in primer. 
     
  22. Like
    NukerDan reacted to JayW in Heavy Mod - 1/18 21st Century Toys P-47D Razorback   
    I have an "interim" report on the bomb pylons, or "wing tank adapters".  Here is a repeat photo of this item:
     

     
    That way you can look at some of the details I am attempting to replicate and compare.
     
    This is difficult work to get right.  My first effort was (is) to create the forward portion of the pylon box.  It involves two side skins, a forward frame, a mid frame, and a bottom "floor" of sorts.  The framework provides the shape the side skins must take, and also provides the mounting surface for the bomb shackle, and later the sway braces.  It also provides the attachment surfaces for the aft end of the pylon which I have not started yet.
     
    Here is the basic forward box (both of them):
     
     
     
    The shackles are very similar to the centerline one I showed a couple of posts ago.  You also see the side skins - notice the aft ends where contour transition begins.  A very pesky thin bent-up "bulkhead" holds the local contour and forces it to taper to a sharp edge.  This will be much more evident when I produce the aft portion of the pylon.
     
    A couple more shots:
     
      
     

     
    I have included the Dzus fasteners similar to what was done on the wing and fuselage, only smaller diameter.  Note also the elliptical nose formers I have included in which to attach the nose skin shown here:
     

     
    Man - that little curved skin part is pressure packed.  It is the most visible part of the pylon and it has to be good.  This includes properly matching up to the wing contour.  I fail on this part, and I have to start over.  The part you see has excess on all four sides and is trimmed to shape after being glued to the nose formers.  Like this:
     
     
     
    Here is a test fit:
     

     
    So far , so good.  It was just a matter of filing and sanding a little at a time til it fit up OK.  There is much to go.  Complicated little suckers these are!
     
     
  23. Like
    NukerDan reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    evening Mustang fans
     
     
    Thanks Jay - the wing filler on the surfaces is a little problem I am trying to get my head around right now, and I think I am going to need a little advice from the community!
     
     
     
     
    that is a stunning photo Chek - really useful, thank you - one interesting thing is the rivets - on a P51 it seems they are tiny and flush and as can be seen here are acually lots of different tones in themselves - I can't hope toreplicate the tones, but it is a good prompt to go down to tiny sized when it comes to the fuselage..
     
    so, since the last update I have been trying to work out what is going on with a P51 wing skin surface - I know there have been useful threads on the forum but I can't seem to find them so am asking for any advice to be offered right here if you know about this stuff
     
    here is what I know - I know filler is applied to certainly the front of the wings, I know on the Oshkosh Grand Champion resto of Lopes Hope (and they are as nuts about detail & accuracy as we are..) the wings were also painted silver all over apart from the gear doors, and the lower skins over the wing fuel tanks
     
    this pic shows how they did it..
     

     
    ..and another..
     

     
    ..on a couple of upper surface ones I can definately see a few panel lines on the leading edge near the wing root, but curiously on the bottom it looks completely smooth..
     
    I toyed with not skinning the wing and just doing it smooth, but then I saw this pic of Lopes Hope wing being done..
     

     
    ..all Aircorps Aviation WIP pics only show the leading edge being filled to about a thrid of the chord, so my current working theory is that I will skin the whole wing with aluminium, fill to the line I can see they are doing and then paint the whole wing apart from the panels they also leave NM..
     
    ..now then - this is where I need a spot of help - does that sound right?
     
    hopefully someone knows a lot more about this than me and can give me some pointers while I get on with the skinning..
     
    ..speaking of which I had better post some actual work..
     
    ..I stitched together multiple factory drawings to try and get the layout of ribs, stiffners and access panels - printed these to scale and stuck them to the model with pritt-stick paper glue..
     

     
    ..then I cut along every line with a scalpel so I could draw it out on the wing - after doing so I brush water on the paper & strip it all off..
     

     
    I started the skinning with the Nav Light panel - taking a template from the model & blending it with drawings to get the shapes and lines of rivets - the holes were dremmelled out with a wide based triangle burr..
     

     
    ..after rivetting it needs washing in thinners as the awl I use for rivets actually punches out a tiny disc of tape & these can come free and mark the metal as I burnish the part on a hard surface to flatten out all the detailing..
     
    ..the light lens bracket was one of the extra bits of PE I did when I did the 1/24 airscale Hellcat cockpit set..
     

     
    ..added that panel & moved onto the next - this one has a tricky oval access panel and sets the position of the panels above & below it as it sits below the wing spar - here I am using tamiya tape to hold it in position so I can just fold it back, add the contact cement and fold it into position - the masking tape stops me getting glue everywhere I don't want it..
     

     
    ..then the other panels were added and the area cleaned up..
     

     

     
    ..I always work synchronosly so that I don't get bored repeating an action later on, so the same panels are made at the same time for the other wing... this side has a big lens in the leading edge for a landing light so I haven't got to that yet..
     

     
    ..in other news, i made castings of my prop blade master, cleaned them up a bit and shot a coat of mr. surfacer..
     

     
    ..they still need more sorting out, but they do fit the prop hub...
     

     
    ..and I think starts to give that unmistakeable P51 character to the nose..
     

     
    ..so yes, I do intend to skin the wings and then cover it in filler....
     
    I must be mad..
     
    TTFN

    Peter
     
     
     
     
     
  24. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Pete Fleischmann in 1/16 scale scratch built AT-38B Talon-The Smurf jet is back!   
    Hello all-
     
    pressing on with the front IP-
     

     
    Still much work to do here..I've begun to add swiches and knobs...still need to add bezels, gear handle, etc-
     

     
    Cheers
     
    Pete
  25. Like
    NukerDan reacted to Fvdm in OS2U Kingfisher 1:32 Finished!   
    As Brian mentioned, the engine mounts needed placement. I was warned about the fitting so I looked a while at it and came up with a solution to try.  The engine mounts consists of three parts, E19-E26-E27
     

     
    While fitting each part on its own I thought that there where two parts a bit annoying so I removed them. These are parts E79-E80
     

     
    Whit these removed the fit went quite easy. I placed the three parts and a drop of CA glued them together. When dry I spayed the part and I had this
     

     
    I dryfitted the part also on the bulkhead and it fitted quite nicely so i glued the engine mounts to the engine.
     

     
    Looks nice. Then it was time to place the valve covers and the parts E79-E80.
     

     
    In the meantime I made the exhausts. I still need to apply some powders but it is painted. Also the first bulkhead is glued and painted and is now drying.
     

     
    And the last pic is the gorgeous IP
     

     
    Thanks for watching
     
    Ferry
×
×
  • Create New...