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Gewehr 43

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Gewehr 43 last won the day on December 31 2018

Gewehr 43 had the most liked content!

About Gewehr 43

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  1. Gewehr 43

    Mr. Paint (MRP?)

    Yes, 100% compatible. Done it a bunch of times.
  2. Remember too that Tamiya just put a MAP policy in place. If you're seeing price parity between the two shops on Tamiya products, that's mandated by Tamiya.
  3. Hallelujah! Thank you!
  4. I've looked quite a bit but have never found a color chart for MRP.
  5. Gewehr 43

    The Swamp Ghost - B-17E 41-2446

    Thanks for the compliments and I hope you enjoy the ride! Yep, the woodgrain is probably the one dumb thing I did right on this build the first time around. I more or less followed this technique: https://www.agapemodels.com/2009/09/23/simulating-wood-grain/ Basically, you lay down a base coat of a color, then go over it with oil paints. Stupid simple. Clearly if I can make it work, anyone can do it. @tomprobert, thank you very much for the information. I was operating (this time around) on the understanding that the "control areas" of the Fortress were painted: Nose, flight deck, and radio room. Apparently, that's not the case for the early E-models then. Was the flight deck behind the pilots' platform bare wood or painted?
  6. Gewehr 43

    I must be crazy...B-24J build.

    Awesome. Following. That turret is the only fault with the kit that is bad enough to hesitate on buying it. If someone an aftermarket replacement is available by the time I'm done with my B-17, I'll likely snag the -24 then.
  7. Iain, I'm really enjoying your work on this. Thanks for taking the time to document. It's really great to watch. The only thing stopping me from buying the Liberator is that I've just gotten going on my B-17. I'll be watching your progress to see how it goes. Subscribed! Thanks!
  8. Gewehr 43

    The Swamp Ghost - B-17E 41-2446

    The first part of this (re)build will be a bit hodge podge. Where I can easily remove kit plastic parts to replace with more detailed PE parts, I will. But, I'm not going to stress too much about it if an injection-molded part is used. I'm not a rivet counter, nor am I overly obsessed with details and having everything just perfect. Ejector pin marks in hard-to-reach, and hard-to-see places don't bother me. In the end, as long as the final product looks like a decent rendition of 41-2446 as she would have looked sitting on the ramp at Garbutt Field, I'm happy. One benefit to having no references of the real aircraft is that I get a bit of creative license. I have quite a bit of aftermarket interior parts to use on this build. I bought the Big Ed interior set from Eduard, along with a set of brassin wheels, and .50 cal gun barrels. The kit barrels are garbage. After organizing all the plastic, here is a shot of the aftermarket. Having slogged through an intense amount of PE on my 1/144 USS Chevalier last summer, PE doesn't really scare me like it used to. That said, soldering still escapes me, so every bit of PE you see will be constructed and affixed with super glue. If it worked on the Chevalier, it'll work here. As with any aftermarket, I usually start with the instructions. This took a bit as I had to go over the plastic, what I'd built, what needed to be built, and determine what could be removed and what could stay. Anything circled will be added, anything crossed out will remain a kit part that's already in place. The highlighted parts are unpainted PE parts that need to be stuck in place and painted prior to adding any of the pre-painted bits from the PE sets. Another boneheaded lesson I learned on a different kit a few years ago. (sigh^2) First, I removed any parts that would be replaced by PE or that would hinder painting the floorboards. And so my PE journey and the rebirth of the 41-2446 in 1/32 form begins with a humble start. Some quick detail added to the overhead ammo can for the left cheek gun. So far, I'm pretty happy with the Eduard PE set. It's clean, bends well, and the instructions are decent. My only gripe is that it really should have been marketed as a detail kit for the B-17F, not the "B-17E/F" as all of the instructions are shown for the F-model with the larger cheek windows. Thus, I'm left to guessing quite a bit on the internals and where parts go or don't go. Here's an ammo box holder for the bulkhead below the pilots' feet. I need to go out and get some ultra-thin superglue as having it would have made that rear join much cleaner. Oh well. The pic makes it looks worse than it is, and once it's installed, that tiny gap will be invisible. Here is the progress I've made thus far. Again, I'm starting with the unpainted stuff that will need to be painted along with the interior bulkheads. Once those are all painted, I'll slap on the Eduard pre-painted stuff. So far, so good. I'll be approaching this just like I did my Chevalier... one section at a time. I intend to treat each compartment as its own mini-project, a tactic aided by the breakdown of the Eduard kits. Stay tuned, I'm hoping to have a couple updates a week as I push through this project.
  9. My entry into the Multi-Engine Group Build is B-17E 41-2446, the aircraft that would go on to become the famous "Swamp Ghost." This site gives a good overview of her ordeal as one of the first handful of bombers the USAAF would throw at the Japanese. In short, she left Australia on February 22nd, 1942 to bomb Japanese positions at Rabaul. Shot up over the target and leaking fuel, the pilot, Fred Eaton opted to put her down in a grassy field north of the Owen Stanley mountain range in New Guinea. As it turns out, the "grassy field" was actually the Agaimbo swamp and the bomber settled into the mud. The crew abandoned her after dutifully disposing of the Norden bombsight, and ultimately returned to combat duty later. For many years, she lay undisturbed. Rediscovered in the 1970s, visited in the 1980s, and ultimately recovered and exported over many years beginning in 2006, she is the only B-17E still in original battle condition. My intent is to build this kit into 41-2446 as she would have appeared at some/any point during her short career prior to her loss. This presents a couple of challenges. First, there are - to my knowledge - no known images of the aircraft before she was shot down, so I'll have to make some educated guesses as to configurations and whatnot. Secondly, and perhaps the biggest challenge, is that she was equipped with the Sperry remotely-operated belly turret. The HKM kit which I'll be using does not have this, so I'll have to take a shot at building it from scratch. I've never done any scratch building of this magnitude, so any guidance is appreciated. Lastly, general references for the B-17E (particularly internal photos) are pretty hard to come by. Boeingimages.com is turning out to be pretty helpful, though most of the pics of E models appear to be pre-war, factory-fresh aircraft. There were a handful of post-crash photos taken during the war which give some clues as to her general configuration and painting. She carried the early-war insignia with red center, her rudder was striped red & white, she likely had the large "US ARMY" marking on her underwing, and her vertical stabilizer was a slightly different/lighter OD green than the rest of the ship. Beyond that, I'm guessing she was a pretty standard early B-17E. Happily, I visited her in her new location in June of 2018, so I have some first hand pics. Sadly, however, she's pretty well stripped of most parts and you aren't allowed around the rear of the ship. So, the pics I could take were limited to the forward section. Here is the album of my trip. I'll be using the Hong Kong Models B-17E/F kit for the build with some Eduard extras thrown in. I started this kit in February 2017, but my heart wasn't in it and the build stalled. I'm excited to get back to it now as I feel my skills have improved over the last 2 years such that I can make an actual attempt at doing this kit and aircraft justice. You'll see in some of my "current-state" photos that my initial efforts were sub-par. I didn't realize much of the floor work is plywood and my chipping efforts were very unsatisfactory. That said, I'll be repainting almost everything that's been painted so far, so we'll be taking a few steps back from what is the current state. In discussing it with the mod team, I've been given the green light for the sub-25% rule. That said, here is the current state of affairs. Work bench on the left, paint bench w/references in the middle, and the big plastic parts in the kit box on the right. Organization is key to my sanity in the workshop. I usually spend about a half hour every evening straightening up after a bench session. Assembled references. Taking suggestions for anything that shows the remote-turret or other interior fittings in detail. Everything you see here is the current-state from my 2017 efforts. I have to eat crow here and fess up to the fact that I clearly did not do my homework with respect to painting the interior. Sigh. The guns turned out passable. The step where the previous project died: Cleaning up the bombs. I remember clearly having a "screw this" moment and immediately boxing the kit back up. Fortunately, I had the sense to mask the inside of the windows before painting. I shouldn't have installed them in the first place, but apparently I was off my medication or somesuch that day. With that said, I'm ready to start tackling this kit properly.
  10. Gewehr 43

    Rules of the Road

    Having laid out the B-17E kit for inventory, it's taking every bit of my reserve to not start building.
  11. Gewehr 43

    Speed build: Hasegawa P-40E

    Thank you! Without extensive mottling a monotone scheme like this will get dull really quickly. Hope you found it helpful. Check out Doogs Models for more info and videos on "black basing" and mottling.
  12. FIN. I hope you enjoy. Tomorrow I clean the workshop and get everything organized to kick off my entry into the Multi-Engine Group Build: A 1/32 rendition of the aircraft that came to be known as "Swamp Ghost."
  13. Exhausts were painted Vallejo Burnt Umber and weathered with black pastels and pencil graphite for a final sheen.
  14. It is with great pleasure that I present my completed 1/32 P-40E in the livery of the 7th FS, 49th FG in Darwin, Australia, 1942. I've been on a big early-Pacific-war kick lately (see also: Guadalcanal-era Wildcat), so I decided to pull this off the shelf and give it a go. The trick is that I decided to do that on December 15th and I'm planning to join the Multi-Engine Group Build with my HKM B-17E on January 1. Can't have something else cluttering the bench, so I challenged myself to put out a reasonably quality product by December 31st, or 16 days from start to finish. If you'd like to see the build process, I was fairly verbose in the WIP thread. This was built out of the box except for a couple minor things. The shoulder harnesses came from the spares bin (I think for a P-39) and the lap belts are Tamiya tape. The aerial wire is EZ Line and the rear iron sight is scratch built from the spare PE left over on a StuG III kit I did years ago. Much better than the ridiculous molded plastic rear sight. The kit is really pretty good and fits together well, though I remain baffled on several of Hasegawa's engineering decisions. Neither the separate tail section or the rear canopy glass are done on a panel line, so extensive filling, sanding, and rescribing are needed... something that I did a so-so job on. A little more thought to the engineering on this would have taken a "really solid" kit to a "superb" kit. Markings are Montex masks and decals. Paints and finishing materials are a mix of everything. Tamiya, MRP, Vallejo, etc. Though, I will give a tip that I found an absolutely perfect "flat" clear that I'll use from here on out. It's a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Gloss Varnish and Vallejo Matt Varnish thinned 3:1 with their airbrush thinner. E.g. 3 parts gloss, 3 parts matt, 18 parts thinner. It's not dead flat, but few things are, and that mix gave me a perfect finish for oil filtering. Anyway, on to the pics. My first time working with masks. Turned out pretty well despite making rookie mistakes and over-complicating the process for myself. (sigh) Scratch-built rear iron sight Cockpit. See the WIP thread for more detailed photos.
  15. Gewehr 43

    Speed build: Hasegawa P-40E

    Thank you all for the compliments. Modulation is the only way to liven up what is a fairly monotone scheme on this beast. Thank you. That was really my problem and the lesson learned here. I more or less did the first insignia backwards and essentially assembled the mask on the kit from individual pieces. Ugh. In the end, the results were solid, but... bleh... Like I said, lesson learned. Okay, so... time for an update. Spoiler alert: There will be an RFI post shortly. (!!!) After my pic update yesterday - well, to be completely honest... during my pic dump yesterday - I realized I still had to put on all the kit decals. That was a bit of a downer as I hate decals. A lot. Especially Tamiya and Hasegawa decals. They are always so thick that they never seem to settle into surface details and silver like the dickens. My loathing for Hasegawa decals is what actually drove me to look for Montex masks for this build. Nevertheless, I forged ahead and the only semi-major difficulty is/was some silvering on the prop stenciling. Everything else turned out okay. Truthfully, this is probably one of those "own worst critic" things, as if I didn't point it out, it probably would go completely unnoticed. Anyhoo... After the decals were done, I faded/blended them a bit by overspraying a very heavily-thinned OD green. The effect is subtle, but very pleasing to the eye. I then clear coated the whole model with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo gloss clear and Vallejo matt clear thinned 3:1. This is the first time I tried this mix and it sprays absolutely beautifully and gives a perfect satin finish. I was really happy with this and it will likely be my go-to "flat" coating. After that was chipping. This was done by the sponge method with Vallejo model color, then enhanced with a silver prismacolor pencil. Very happy with the results here too. At some point in the day, I decided to tackle a problem that's been bugging me for a while: The ridiculous injection-molded iron-sight. This crap... ... just ain't gonna cut it. Sooooo, I fished around in my spares bin and found a Dragon PE set from some random StuG III that I did years ago, and in it, was a part that was just about perfect... I carefully drilled out a smaller hole: Then superglued stretched EZ Line across the opening. Cut the EZ Line to length, then added another piece from the PE set and, viola! Much-less-crappy-iron-sight ahoy. After that, things are a bit of a blur. It's now ~6pm EST and I've been working on this kit since 8am this morning. Brush painting, clear coats, aerial wiring, landing gear, unmasking canopies, etc, etc, etc. As a bit of a teaser... (RFI is here!)