Cheetah11

Hi Alain Wow another great looking Phantom. Well done and great weathering on this one Cheers Nick

Hi Alan, The Matra 530 would dictate an earlier all gloss scheme with full national markings. You would have to use Sidewinders on the wings though. Cheers Nick

Hi Alan Which Mirage III are you building. The SAAF operated both the Mirage IIIC and the IIIE. The loadout will depend on the time period. Mirage III's were operated between 1963 and 1989 , so cammo and typical config changed a lot. The outboard missiles were initially the AIM-9B and from the early eighties the locally produced V-3 was carried. Matra 550's was only carried by the Mirage F1CZ. Fortunately Artman Delta now produces 3D printed tanks and missiles in 1/32 and MAV produces decals. During the last few years of operations some of the the Mirage III's carried no national markings making modelling a bit easier. Tell me what time period and which Mirage and I will see if I can find photos and details for you. Cheers Nick

Hi Thierry, I think more than a single sprue would have been needed. The wings have different bulges on top and the bottom needs greater cut outs for the radiators. Only the fuselage can be used as is. The documentation is not great on the G model but the full size example at Hendon should have provided enough for a model. Cheers Nick

The rear cockpit had a very different layout with an armoured bulkhead , twin MG181, 7.92mm ammo bins, MG FF cannon plus magazine racks, new seat plus radar scopes and the associated wiring plus MG 151 in the floor. When I modified my Dragon kit I thought Dragon had missed an opportunity to do the 110 G-4 as well. Once I did the research on the differences I realized it would almost be a totally new kit. (I almost forgot apart from the mentioned nacelles, new engines and underwing radiators as well.)

Wow an incredible result. Well done

Wow Pete what an awesome cockpit. BTW I think this is the colour you are talking about. I never used it since the cockpit colour changes shortly after I got it. (1988 I think) Cheers Nick

Picked up my numbered hard copy from Lionel today. Looking forward to great reading. Cheers Nick

I am trying to find good drawings or diagrams on these two missiles and their launchers. Most of the pics on the internet are not side on, and almost no info of the launchers. I see there are a few 1/32 AM prints but the site in in Japanese, so ordering will be a challenge. If I can find enough info I will try and scratch build since I doubt Reskit or Eduard will ever release them. Thanks Nick

Hi Romain Super build and fantastic result.

Hi Roger Good luck with the hunting of the Thunderbird kit and the Afterburner decals. If you need a Plan B here are a couple of Block 30's. Article in Air Forces Magazine January 2010. Cheers Nick

Almost finished. The Tamiya surplus cockpit entry door was used. The crowbar and stiffener detail removed and new stiffeners added. With all the small details added finally done. I will see if I can take RFI pictures on the weekend. Cheers Nick

Hi Roger If you are undecided I would suggest the Block30 and the Tamiya kit. The Tamiya kit is a dream to build and the Block 30 Aggressors have interesting colour schemes.. You only need AM main gear doors but these are not that obvious. AM wheels from Reskit are also readily available. Earlier ones also had no strengthening plates making the build easier. I have an article on Block 30 Alaskan Aggressors which I can scan if you require. The Thunderbird kit is difficult to find and if you do a later Block42 you need the gear doors of the Block50 kit on it anyway. See if you can download the 1/48 Tamiya F-16 Aggressor instructions where all the differences will be much clearer. Cheers Nick

Nice find Gazzas, what makes this boxing great is it also has parts to do an A-6.

Hi Roger It depends on which aggressor F-16 you want to do. USAF aggressors use Block25, 30, and 32. Navy used F-16N and F-16A. For a Block 30 you only need to replace the main gear doors and main undercarriage if you want to use the Tamiya kit. The other small details are easy to modify. Same for Academy kit. For the Block 25/32 you need the Thunderbird kit almost as is, or the Academy kit and also change main gear doors with AM. (Or maybe Hasegawa) For the Navy F-16N best to go with the Hasegawa if you can accept the detail. For the Navy F-16A same. Once you have decided on which one I am sure Pete will be able to point out all the small details to change. He also did a great build article in Fine Scale Modeler of a Block30 by using the Tamiya kit which details many of the required changes. Cheers Nick

Stunning paintwork Chris. Absolutely stunning.

Thanks Max The part I like most about this build was all the things I learned about Spitfires in and the conditions during the BOB, as well as things about Sailor Malan I never knew. Closer to your interest if I can get a Lancaster a build will certainly be that of Edwin Swales. Cheers Nick

Yip, I think it is the same. Compared to the Tamiya product it is cheaper, does not harden as soon if not used (longer shelf life) and is easier to use. Cheers Nick

Hi Denis Here is the putty. Only about 5 Euro. Cheers Nick

Almost done. Most of the paint on. I used the Eduard PDF on their 1/48 kit to cut masks for the cammo pattern. There interpretation differs a bit from the Fundecals diagrams. I wanted to take a shortcut and use the kit decals. They worked fine but the upper wing roundels are a bit large. They are exactly according to spec but on period photos the roundels on the aircraft appear a tad smaller. I cut roundels 2,5mm smaller and airbrushed them along with the walkway lines. The codes were airbrushed but the 2mm short rear fuselage came to byte me . I sized the codes and distance between them from the panel lines, resulting in a bit of a squeeze for the fuselage roundels. Now for all the small details to finish next week. Cheers Nick

Denis here is the product from the Warhammer crowd. You cut off equal parts and then mix it like plasticine. It hardens overnight. It can be sculpted and sanded. I will get you the brand name tomorrow. It is cheaper than comparable products and works well. Cheers Nick

Hi Denis For large gaps the only real choice is to use a two part epoxy putty. It is the only filler that does not shrink once applied. Shop around . I found my kids using it for Warhammer putty at half the price of the Tamiya equivalent. It also does not harden as quickly. If you need the brand name I will get it for you. Cheers Nick

Surprized today. The Kotare Spit showed up at at the LHS. Cant believe it has landed in South Africa. Unfortunately $15 more than the Tamiya F-16 At $166 I will give it a miss and get a F-16. Nick

Ip fitted to the cockpit and then all closed up. Painting time. After a brief flirtation with acrylic and lacquer paint I find I am using enamels more and more. We have only Tamiya and Humbrol. The Tamiya sky is very bright compared to the small amount of Xtracolor I still have, so some light grey was added till it matched the tin lid of the Xtracolor. At the same time I tested my mixes for the topside. Against the black background it is a little light but the green needs to be darker so I will need to darken it somewhat. Cheers Nick

Ryan the box art of both Italeri models are incorrect as well. The C tanks on the E position and vice versa. Nick