Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About s_tringa

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

311 profile views
  1. Hi guys, sorry for the long absence due to the usual crazy working period! Although very slowly the works on the two 109 continue and so I show you some small progress .... The tail surfaces and rudder of the 109 Revell were already separated but I don't like the surface finish on the moving surfaces. In fact they had very heavy and unreal details when compared to the original. While for the 109 Hasegawa I had to use a hacksaw to separate the parts and I would have to work to rebuild the internal profiles. So I preferred to take two sets of Quickboost that fit well with both models, I just had to fill some small gaps with the usual styrene sheet. I also replaced the whell wells of the 109 Hasegawa with the Aires ones (beautiful but a little difficult to adapt) while those of the Revell kit remained because they were very beautiful and detailed. In both I added only a few wires made with lead wire and small pieces of pipe made from the insulation of electric wires .... For the painting I started from the usual black base with the Mr Surface 1500 and then "marbling" with sand and gray, to finish Grau02 glazes until you get the effect you see in the picture. Washings and lightening of the details will follow...... I have detailed the front canopies by adding the internal frame and the screened lights that illuminated the interior. I don't usually use pre-cut masks but this time for the 109 Hasegawa I used the internal and external ones of the Montex which proved to be very accurate. For the 109 Revell I went the old way, yellow tape and cutter with new blade ......... Finally, the legs of the undercarriage, which in the 109 Hasegawa are in one piece and removed the usual quite good burrs, while the 109 Revell has every single leg broken down into 4 parts and even assembling it with extreme care, the joints have remained evident. So I had to invent a little tool to sand them without ruining the cylindrical shape ...... it worked more or less. Until next time ... I hope soon. Sebastiano
  2. Simply amazing! I will follow................... Sebastiano
  3. Could some 109's experts confirm that the edge of the upper radiator outlet flap was slightly different from F to G model? Thanks in advance this pic show a 109F-4/trop.... this come from the G-2 at Hendon... and this come from G manual...
  4. Another little progress...... Blade propeller. Mmmmm!! I am not completely convinced of the shape of the Revell blade and exhaust..... Sebastiano
  5. Ciao, a little update on both my 109 I've spent a lot of time on the wings of the 109 G-2, because I was sure that it was a normal G-2 without che bulges on the wings, so to avoid to use the resin parts from the AlleyCat set (I'dont like to glue big resin parts with the cyanoacrilate ), I had to remove the bulges on the Revell wings and to fill with superglue and putty the inner part of each bulges. Adding on both kit the circular riveting tipicaly of the bf109's wing. but after some weeks, looking for other pictures of my 109 G-2, come out two shots that show unequivocally that show clearly the bulges on the wings. I'm not a super expert on Bf109 and I dont know exactly how to explain it. Maybe it was a late type of G-2 with the G-4's bulged wings and large tyres or maybe it was some field modification due to combat damage. Right or wrong..... I'm needed to restore the bulges again. and after having previously filled it, I had to carve again the inside of the bubble on which the wheel went inside the wells. For the F-4 wheels, I will use those from the Aires set, while for the G-2 the work will be different; My model had wheels with a larger diameter tire, typical of the G-6, but the spoked rim of the F. To make it happen I used, with minimal adjustments, the original Revell wheels for the G-6 adapting the spare spoke rims from the Eduard 109 E box, the internal diameter of the rim is slightly larger than the inside of the Revell wheel but with a some sandpaper is fixed in a moment .... I also corrected something that I did not like too much on both models. In the real airplane, the upper cover of the guns compartment closed on the fuselage creating a small step. This effect in both models, due to the various sanding steps, was lost so I solve with a plastic sheet 0.1mm shaped to size. I just have to add the fasten hooks that I will take from the scrap parts of the Revell box ..... I's all for now. Ciao Sebastiano
  6. Yes is not glued, only to test the fit with the plastic air intake!
  7. After a long time, I come back to update this post also thanks to work done in the Christmas holidays. I've started to paint the interior using the "black base" thecnique with Mr Surface1500 adding some sprayed spotted texture of light (raised parts) and medium grey and at last aome light layer of RLM66 until the result let me satisfyed. Tomorrow I will continue the painting adding the various details and with the weathering process I'we doing somethign on the wheel wells , openig the holes on the inner part. I'dont like too much the Hasegawa wheel wells because are no detail on the surface so probably I'll replache these with some aftermarket parts. In the meantime, I've take back the other Bf 109 that I've stopped some months ago for some problems to fit the Aires cockpit into the fuselage. It is the G-6 Revell that I would to backdate into a G-2/trop using the Alleycat set. The Revell is lovely and have very fine details. The camouflage I've chose is the standard desert scheme in RLM 78/79 but with an interesting field variation of an overpainted "wave mirror" in green RLM80. In this way I could go in tandem, saving a lot of time. I'dont have the decals for this G-2 but I think that not will be a big problem. I'll try to use self made mask for painting numbers and unit emblem. [/url] So I've started to detail the external surface adding rivets and emptying the inside of the exaust stacks and the air vents and scratchbuilding the exaust protection as doing on the F-4 model also I've added the sand filter from Quickboost. I painted the cockpit as described for the F-4, in the end the result satisfies me. Just a little touch of desert sand on the floor using pigments. and after the worst challenge.....put in the Aires cockpit. I think this is an adjustment of the old interior for G-2 hasegawa kits to use it in the new revell . At the end, after a lot of file and sandpaper work, I did it. In my opinion the set Aires is not essential because the Revell's interiors are beautiful and detailed, only the rear seat belts molded together with the seat back (5 minutes working with the round blade cutter). I do not know why I took this set. Now I can close the fuselage and glue the resin top of the engine cowling. To be able to assemble the two brass MGs after painted the model, I glued two small styrene tubes inside the cowling just in correspondence with the holes for the machine guns. Here is the two Bf109 togheter It's all for now, hope you like the progress. Sebastiano
  8. Hello to all my name is Sebastiano from Italy and I'm new here. I'm came back to large scale after several years in the small and the quarter scale. 1/32 was my first love in my modeller carreer, so is time to go back home. My first here is a Messerschmitt-Bf-109F4-10.JG53(Jabo) in MTO (Sicily-1942) using the F4-trop Hasegawa kit and some parts from old Aires G-6->F-4 conversion set. So let's start. Criticisms and suggestion always appreciated. For first I'm start to rivets all the plane from the fuselage and to the wings. Using Kagero scale plane, Rosie the riveter and 3M blue tape and a lot of patience. I hate this kind of work!! completed the riveting process, I start to scratchbuilt the larger curved exhaust guard/deflector on the left side of the engine cowling, using the process showed in the following pics. The metal foil is molded after it is passing for few second on a candle flame to make the brass softer. It's all for now!! Sebastiano
  • Create New...