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Zank_Frappa

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About Zank_Frappa

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 10/21/2000

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Louis

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  1. This thread reminded me of something I saw the other day on youtube. Pretty impressive stuff.
  2. Those parts turned out really well. I've been thinking of getting one of those. How thick of a sheet can it reliably cut? I haven't seen many people, if any, use one like that.
  3. It's been a while since I thought about this build, but I'm back at it. Classes were moved online so I'm back home and have a lot of free time. Today I started painting the cockpit and IP: I'm still unsure how to proceed with the weathering of the cockpit. The title of the thread says white 34, but I'm starting to lean towards Rudi Sinner's green 1, which I imagine would have been a much cleaner aircraft. So I'll leave it here until I decide. I also glued the fuselage halves together along with the nose panels.
  4. I'm also not a big fan of the way that those riveting wheels make rivets. UMM-USA makes a beading tool that does a very nice job at representing individual rivets. Alternatively, I've also used a little embossing set I bought on amazon. Also, you might have seen it already, but there's a good article here on LSP that goes through a few different types of tools to use. I've linked it here.
  5. Hi all, Since my campus is closed for the rest of the semester and I'm back home, I've had a lot more time to devote to some of my projects. While researching for my 262 build (I started a thread for this right before I left for school and never updated it) I've run into a bit of an issue with regards to the placement of the oxygen hose/regulator in the cockpit. Here you can obviously see that the regulator is located beneath the emergency hydraulic levers and inside of the port sidewall. The hose then travels out from there. My question is this: Where does t
  6. When I built my trumpeter 1/24 190d, I was able to use tiny neodymium magnets to allow part of the engine cowling to be removed to view the engine inside.
  7. If I were you I'd try thinning the plastic on the upper wing half down. You could use a grinding head in a dremel, but personally I'd use a #10 or #22 to slowly scrape the plastic away until the resin part sits like it should
  8. Sup dudes, I just got my Trumpeter 262 in the mail today, and I've decided to try to do a build log for it. I've never kept up with one, so why not try again? For this build I've decided to go with a sort of funky Frankenstein scheme, White 34. I'm planning on using this as practice for various weathering techniques, because as of now I have rather limited experience. (Probably because I don't finish so many of the models I start) I'll end this post with a mockup taped together as soon as I opened the box, because I'm still waiting on my aires cockpit replacement and
  9. Will be following with interest... I've built 3 of these kits, and I think you'll enjoy it.
  10. Hmm, that's good to know. I've been fiddling with making plugs for and sculpting the shell collectors all evening.
  11. Hi all, I'm working on a build of Fliegerstaffel 15's J-4015 "Papyrus", and I was wondering if anyone knew of any conversion parts for a Swiss mk 58, specifically the spent ammunition collection bulges (at least that's what I think they are) Thanks
  12. If you're not looking to make your own filter, quickboost makes one thats pretty nice. I used it to replace the kit one on the g2/trop
  13. I've never used MM stuff over acrylic but tamiya's own clear lacquer has worked pretty well over acrylics for me
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