sandbagger

Hi Andy, Tricky but it can be done. I cut a single rectangle of the decal that was slightly larger than the top of the floats. This was cut in half to make it easier to apply. Each section was applied over the float and then I used a damp cotton bud to conform the decal over and into the raised 'runners' along the float. Then gradually worked outwards to the float edges. The only problem areas were the four raised runners on each side (front and rear) of the floats. I had to slice the decal between the runners in order to conform the decal over them. This does leave spaces between the decal slices but the runners will be painted over anyway. I made sure any over lap of decal at the float edges did not adhere to the sides of the floats, only on the top edge rim along the floats. Once set, any lifting of the decal was pierced and MicroSol applied. Any stubborn areas were given a light brushing with Tamiya X20A thinners (too much applied will melt the decal. Lastly I ran a curved blade along the underside of the top edge rims to remove excess decal, leaving it adhered only onto the rim edges. Mike

Hi all, The fuselage was mottled with two slightly different shades of grey to give a weathered look to the wood surface. The kit decals were replaced with 'Aviattic' decals as being more representative of the Lozenge colours. The darker lozenge was decal over a grey base coat, to represent the darker linen effect over wood surfaces and upper wing auxiliary fuel tank. The lighter linen shade was over white base coat. The direction of the lozenge on the ailerons and elevator are different to the rest of the aircraft lozenge, as on the actual aircraft. Still more detail painting and subsequent weathering to be done before assembly, Mike

Hi all, I've replaced the kit supplied Spandau and Parabellum machine guns with modified 'Gaspatch' weapons. The fuselage and other parts were primed then airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Grey (XF53). The wings, ailerons and elevator were primed white and pre-shaded with 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19) prior to decal application (Aviattic), Mike

Hi all, The fuselage is ready to be closed up. I've carried out a few enhancements to the cockpit: Rudder control pulleys drilled and control cables added (0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube). Elevator control levers drilled and control cables added (0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube). Aileron control cables (photo-etch) replaced with 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 'Proper Plane' resin turnbuckles. Observers seat and map shelf side stays added from blackened 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube. Lead wire 0.4 mm diameter added for the fuel tank hand pressurizing pump. Copper wire 0.125 mm diameter wrapped around the pilot control wheel to represent hand grip. Nickel-silver 0.4 mm diameter tube used for the throttle quadrant to engine carburetor control rod. Mike

Hi all, The engine is complete apart from adding control rods once the engine is fitted into the fuselage. I've added a few changes to the kit supplied engine: Nickel-Silver push rods of 0.4 mm diameter. Rear coolant pipe from 0.5 mm diameter lead wire. Fuel filter pipes from 0.3 mm diameter copper wire. Throttle control return spring from 0.125 mm diameter copper wire. Ignition lead support tubes from shaped Brass tube. Ignition leads from 'EZ' black line (Fine). Fuel priming levers from 0.2 and 0.4 mm diameter Brass tube and Nickel-Silver rod. Crankcase vent ports from 'RB Productions' photo-etch grill. Mike

Hi Ray, Of course - I'm honored, Mike

Hi Kevin, Thanks, I'm honored, Mike

Hi all, As I've suspended the build of the Phonix C.I, I thought I'd started an easier build. The 'Wingnut Wings' model of the Hansa-Brandenburg W12, Serial No.1184 (C3MG) as flown by Fl.Mt. Urban and Lt. Ehrhardt of C-Staffel, Zeebrugge, during December 1917. This aircraft was part of a three aircraft patrol that shot down the British Naval airship C27, killing all five of the crew, Mike

Hi all, This is the 1:32nd scale ‘Copper State Models’ model of Bristol Scout C, Serial number 1260 of No.5 Wing (RNAS), operating from Dover as part of Home Defence in 1916. As usual, a fully detailed build log, which includes all materials, modifications, rigging etc for this build can be downloaded from the 'Logs' page on my site. https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/ Thanks for your comments and support throughout this build, Mike

Hi all, Completed shots are now up in the Ready for Inspection page. Mike

Hi all, The saga continues. Having carried out a bit more research I've found the following regarding the 3D printed cockpit: The aircraft was fitted with a pilots steering wheel with the associated aileron control cables - not a control column The pilot seat was a curved back seat type - not an armchair The observers seat was a fold down seat on the rear bulkhead and facing forward - not an armchair type facing rearwards The pilot and observers cockpit were as one - not separated by a solid bulkhead The instrument panel does not have all of the instruments required The observers cockpit has no detail such as radio gear etc The observers machine gun is the wrong type. So basically the only usable part of the 3D printed cockpit is the rudder bar!! Then there is the over scale landing gear and wheels, not to mention the flimsy wire in the wings, intended as support and to prevent warping. I will conquer this model, but for now it's being shelved, Mike

Hi all, Just a few updates. The 3D printed cockpit decking panel overlaps the sides of the fuselage, which also do not align with the decking panel. Therefore I've had to pin the bottom edges of the decking panel into the top edges of the fuselage to force the two to align. Also, when the cockpit assembly is located into the fuselage, the 3D printed 'block' forming the floor of the observers cockpit does not extend far enough into the rear of the fuselage. In addition, there is no rear cockpit bulkhead supplied in the kit. Therefore, the spaces left will be seen with the cockpit decking panel fitted. I've made a 'false' floor and rear bulkhead from 0.4 mm thick plastic card, which is thin enough to be able to flex when the cockpit assembly is inserted into the fuselage. Mike

Many thanks Ray, Mike

Hi Matt, I think a producer of garage type kits. They have a Phonix D.I fighter coming but as Lukgraph will be releasing that I don't think 'KatModel' will sell many. They have a web site but its not great https://katmodel.com.pl/ Also a FaceBook page. Kits are ordered by email, Mike

Hi all, You ever get that feeling of 'I probably should't have started this'. As the Bristol Scout build is just waiting for the display case to be delivered, I thought I'd start my next build. The 'KatModel' 1:32nd scale kit of the Phönix C.I, which hopefully will represent Phönix C.I, Serial No.121.17 of Flik 28/D, operating from Godega (Italian Front) during June, 1918. Flown by Feldwebel Max Kauer with observer Oberleutnant Arnold Barwig. Hmmmm - where do I start? When the fuselage halves are held together at the tail, the from of the fuselage spreads to an 8mm gap. Also the forward sides of the fuselage are not vertical, which prevents the two 3D printed nose cowls from fitting correctly. The massive 'engine supports in the the fuselage are next to useless. The 3D printed cockpit decking panel spreads over the fuselage sides by at least 4mm. The engine side panels are too long to fit between the nose cowls and cockpit decking. The right side of the engine has carburetors, which foul the panel that side and stop it from fitting correctly. The 3D printed cockpit assembly did not fit inside the closed up fuselage. The surface detail, such as panels and panel 'fasteners' are way oversize and look like they were made in a shipyard. Other than that, so far OK Suffice to say: I pinned the fuselage halves Filed down the fuselage join seams Filed down the cockpit sides Added a spreader inside the forward fuselage to straight the sides Removed the engine supports Removed the engine carburetors for the right side Filed back the forward edge of the cockpit decking panel Filed the end edges of the two engine side panels Filed down the propeller shaft in the lower nose cowl. The fuselage and nose cowls have been joined with CA adhesive (the cockpit assembly and engine can be inserted). The 3D printed panels and engine are just test fitted for now. As you can doubtless see, most if not all of the fuselage detail will probably have to be removed and replaced with more in-scale detail. Also the joins between panels and the fuselage will need to be blended. I enjoy a challenge, but really Mike

Hi all, The Bristol Scout 1260 model is more or less complete. Added details include open access panels, refueling funnel with removed tank filler cap, external starter switch and all rigging. Also an over wing Lewis machine gun with gun sight, butt latch on decking panel and trigger cable. Finally a pilot and mechanic figure stood on a trestle. I still have to make the display for this model. Once done I'll of course post final photographs and upload my PDF build log to my web site. Thanks for your support and comments during this build, Mike

Hi all, Model is now rigged. Still more small details and parts to add, Mike

Hi all, Upper wing on. Now for final rigging, Mike

Hi all, Update on the Scout build. I've pre-rigged the assembly and upper wing. For this model I've not used tubing to secure the lines to the turnbuckles. Instead I looped the lines through the turnbuckles the twisted the line and secured it together using thin CA adhesive. I've used the 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale metal turnbuckles (Type for most of the rigging. These better represent the way the turnbuckles were attached to pivot on their mounting brackets. Some double ended (Type C) turnbuckles are used for flight control cables. Now it's onto fitting the upper wing, Mike

Hi all, Just a quick update. The landing gear struts were wrapped in linen to protect them and strengthen them against splitting. I chose the apply the 'Aviattic' CDL decal to the struts, not that you can see much of it. I also dirtied the gear using the 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt wash. The axle was replaced with 1.2 mm diameter brass tube. Now onto pre-rigging, Mike

Hi Andy, Just add standard PVA (white glue) to the warm decal water and stir it in until it turns the water milky. Nothing special, just normal PVA wood glue or what builders use for sealing fresh plaster etc. The adhesive really helps grip the decal to the painted surface and virtually stops any silvering especially under 'clear', translucent decals like the 'Aviattic' clear backed decals. The main thing is to ensure the painted base coat is as smooth as possible with no surface artifacts like trapped dust, hairs etc. Mike

Hi Matt, Basically I have made the Acrylic display cases to order. The base is just a grass mat ('Polak' mats usually) which are cut to shape and stuck onto the display base with PVA ahesive. Figures etc are pinned and secured in holes drilled into the base, through the grass mat. Aircraft are not secured to the display base, just located in troughs cut through the grass mat. That makes it easier to remove the aircraft for transporting. If you download any of my build logs (my site - Logs page) the end of the build log will have a chapter on the display base, Mike

Hi all, The clay wash has been removed to give the effect of a well used Bristol Scout. A final sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) was airbrushed to seal it all, Mike

Hi all, The surfaces were airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311), which give enough 'grip' for the clay wash. 'Flory Models' clay wash (Dark Dirt) was then brush heavily over the model. Next up is to remove the wash with slightly dampened kitchen absorbent paper, to achieve the desired weathering effect, Mike

Hi Sky, Thanks - I try. I think it would depend on the particular aircraft, how defined its visible internal structure is and how translucent the linen covering was. It probably does take longer to apply than masking and is obviously more delicate (until sealed) than paint. Also you'd need several of the decal sets as each on its own does not have sufficient on one of the stripes. Trying this method was partly due to the Bristol Scouts visible and more defined internal structure and partly out of curiosity, Mike