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Squizzy

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  1. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Chek in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". May 25- Cockpit Cont'd   
    It's not the ideal photo(s), but the top one shows the later gunsight mounted on what looks like a shelf affair.
    The photo was captioned 'unrestored cockpit interior'.
     

  2. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Lemonstein in Tamiya 1/48 F-16C Aggressor   
    Hi All
     
    First post here, and it's not Large Scale so already not a great start  
    Here are some photos of my Tamiya 1/48 F-16 built up as an Aggressor aircraft based at Nellis AFB. The Tamiya F-16 is about as nice a kit as you can get in 1/48 (certainly better than the GWH F-15E I just finished), but I added some additional details, which if I'm honest probably weren't worth it:
    Aires F-16C/N Cockpit - although the detail is amazing, the fit of the resin cockpit in the kit was pretty poor. I had to thin down the kit parts so much to get it to fit, so I suspect it wasn't designed for the Tamiya kit despite being sold as such. Also since so little of the cockpit is actually visible I'm not sure all that work was necessary Aires F-16C Wheel bays - again I'm not sure they were meant for this kit despite what the packaging says and since they aren't that visible from most angles I should've probably skipped them and stuck with the kit parts Aires F-16 exhaust nozzle - this was a drop in replacement for the kit parts and is so much more detailed that I think it was worth it!  
    Aside from the Aires resin pieces I also used a mask kit from DN models (excellent) and TwoBobs decals (also excellent). I chose this scheme partly because I found a lot of good photos of this aircraft (85-418) and partly because it doesn't have multi-colour walkway lines so I didn't have to worry about lining up the camo colours with the decals 

     

     

     

    The ordinance under the wings is from Meng, specifically from their recent US Air-to-Air missile sets. These are really nicely moulded one piece missiles, and the decals are also very good. The only changes I made were the blue inert missile stripes which were painted on since the Meng set comes with the yellow/brown live missile decals. The ACMI pod is from the Tamiya kit.

     

     

    The TwoBobs decals were excellent - perfect colour, minimal film and they settled down very well with some decal solution. They were also tough enough to withstand some poking to get them to go into the panel lines. Even the tiny name decals on the canopy are easily legible. They even included the tiny star decal for the HUD surround.

     

     
    Thanks for looking!
  3. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Robthepom in Trumpeter Harrier II AV-8B   
    all primed, just got bit of extra sanding and glue wing assembly, then its camo time


     
     
     
  4. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from Uncarina in 1:200 USS Missouri Build Log - Trumpeter w/ Pontos Detail Sets   
    Your attention to detail is obvious , it’s looking absolutely awesome so far, looking forward to seeing more! But I understand the pain of slow progress on a 1/200 ship first hand, I’m currently working on my Arizona, and I’ve done some work on my Missouri. I found the Missouri particularly hard to work on just due to the size, but that’s also the reason I love it!
  5. Like
    Squizzy reacted to steinerman in 1:200 USS Missouri Build Log - Trumpeter w/ Pontos Detail Sets   
    Greetings friends.  With this quarantine in effect I thought I'd be able to make tons of progress on my ship.  Alas, such is not the case.  My wife just has that much more time to spent on her "Honey-Do" list.  And, I've come to the realization that if you spend too many hours a day working with little tiny pieces of PE, you soon get to the point where you have to take a break and walk away for a while.  This is a hobby, remember - not a job.  It's supposed to be fun, and when it isn't, it's time to do something else.  But, I have managed to make a little headway from when I last posted back in March.  So, here I am again, with an up-to-date report on my progress. There’s around 40 pictures in this batch, so lean back, grab a cup of coffee (or a glass of wine) and let’s begin.
     
    I have 3 decks finished above the main deck.  According to the plans I have, the lower most one is referred to as the 1st Superstructure Deck, the one above that is the 2nd Superstructure Deck, and the top one is the Flag Bridge Deck. This is an overall shot of the whole assemble, to date. Since my last post, I changed my mind on how I wanted to build this model. I intended to attach the hull to the base at this point and then build upwards from there.  Due to the weight – and the size of the hull and base, I decided to build the superstructure (called the citadel) by itself and attach it to the hull at a later date.  Makes for a much easier build – and I don’t have to worry about knocking all sorts of things off!
     

     
    OK, a couple things to point out here.  One is the American flag.  It was actually mounted where you see it at the time of the Japanese surrender.  And, you’re right, it does appear to be backwards, but that’s the way it was hung.  I had to search for a 48 star flag, then copy it and reduce it to 2/10” wide and print it on photo paper.  The other thing here is that I tried my hand at making windscreen wipers for the windows (Yes, there is clear plastic in the windows).  The first one isn’t all that good, as you can see, but the second one turned out great. I now have to replace that first one and then make 2 more for the other side.  Wanna know how tiny these little things are!!!  They’re made from 0.2mm (0.008”) copper wire.
     

     
    Several new things here.  One is the mops and their rack.  All hand made from .25mm plastic rod and unraveled string. Also note the fire station under the gangway to the 2nd level.  Also, note that all the life rafts now have tiny oars in them and are tied down to the deck with 0.2mm copper wire.  The oars were made from plastic rod with the tips heated and then flattened.
     

     
     Lots of detail added since you saw this last. The vents are painted flat black and then fine mesh copper screen is cut to shape, painted, and glued to the frames.  I had all the compressed gas cylinders painted and attached to all 3 decks when something didn’t look right.  I did some checking and calculatin’ and discovered that the tanks that came with the ship kit were about 20% too big. They looked out of place.  So, I ordered new ones from a place that makes 3D printed parts (more $$$) and did them all over.  Then I wrapped 0.2mm copper wire around the tanks to simulate the cables holding them in place.  Looks a lot better, don’t you think?
     

     
    The little short, squat tanks are acetylene and if you don’t think it was a pain painting the red band around them!!!  The little buggers are only 2/10 of an inch tall to begin with. The boxes on the 2nd deck are ammunition lockers and are scattered throughout the ship.  The white hoses are fire hoses and are located every place you see a red fire suppression valve.  Look close and you can see the nozzles of the fire hoses are painted red.  The hose reel on the side of deck 1  is made by wrapping a layer of real fine copper wire around a toothpick and painting it flat black. The things you don’t have to do to add detail to a model!  The gas bottles are painted the same way they were in 1945.  Three 20mm Orlikon Anti-Aircraft guns mount on the angled platform.  The diagonal tubes on the side are spare gun barrels and the protrusions on the top edge are to hold loaded 20mm shell canisters so they are ready for the gunners at a moment’s notice. They're called "Loader Frames". 
     

     
    Note the gas cylinders in the enclosed walkway and the tiny steps leading up to the 20mm gun platform.  I’m not installing any more guns until much later in the build.  They’re too easy to knock off  (I learned that the hard way!)
     

     
    Here we have a couple new things for you to see.  One is a spare float for the float planes that are catapulted from the stern of the ship.  I had to buy an extra set of airplanes just to get this float! $$$.  Also, do you remember when I left off last March , I said I needed to make some “Stokes Litters”?  Well, nobody makes any in 1:200 scale, so I did some research on the Internet and discovered that they were about 7’ long and roughly 3’ wide, and were made out of canvas webbing.  I carved and sanded what I though was a reasonable looking part, then made a mold and pressed glue saturated toule fabric into the mold. When the glue dried, I carefully cut it out, wrapped a border of 0.2mm copper wire around the outside, and painted it.  An old sailor from that era probably would take one look at it and laugh like mad, but hey, it’s the best I could do.  You can see 2 of them in this view.  There are 5 altogether.
     

     
    Here’s a view showing a ventilator, stokes litter, gas bottles, hose reel, and fire suppression equipment.  Also, two stacks of life rafts, with oars, tied down to the deck.
     

     
    There are several places on this ship where I cut out the hatchway and installed photo-etch doors that are partially open.  When the ship is all complete, I plan to have about 300 sailors and officers placed throughout the ship’s decks.  Also, please note the gun crew’s helmets mounted on the outside of the gun tub’s splinter shield.  To make these, I bought extra oversized compressed gas cylinders, cut the rounded tops off, and painted then dark grey.
     

     
    I took this picture to show the 4 layers of ammunition clip hangers around the insides of the 40mm Bofors gun tubs.  If you recall, the shells are fed into the 40mm Bofors cannons in clips that hold 5 shells at a time. These clips are stored here and are retrieved and fed into the guns by the loaders when the ship is in action.  Also, there is a 20mm Orlikon AA gun mounted just aft of the 40mm gun tub and the helmets for this station are hanging on the aft of the 40mm gun tub.
     

     
    Here’s a close up of the life rafts and oars.  If you’re new to these progress reports, you might be wondering where all this detail is coming from.  I have a set of blueprints for this ship that are 9 feet long and show the tops and sides of every deck in sharp detail, along with the masts and rigging.  Expensive as heck, but worth every penny!
     

     
    Here's another open hatchway and a couple more Stokes litters.  There’s a ton of crap that goes on top of this upper deck and it’s going to take a long time to get it all installed.
     

     
    My plans show a rack with oil hoses is installed here.  No such animal in the kit, so to the rescue comes Evergreen plastic rod and strips. Looks just like the real thing!
     

     
    The port 20mm gun platform and more gas bottles.  It was a real pain having to tear out the old ones and paint and replace with the smaller ones, but I’m glad I did.  They look a lot better!  Only took about 12 hours all told.
     

     
    Another stokes litter and more gas bottles.  Sure wish there wasn’t so many acetylene tanks.  It's a real pain painting that red band!  Also, note the mop rack and hose reel on the aft side of the 5 inch gun mount.
     

     
    Stepping away and looking at all 3 decks.  There is still quite a bit of hardware that goes between the main deck and the 1st superstructure deck that I won’t be able to put in place until the superstructure is glued in place to the main deck.
     

     
    Port side at the front of the superstructure. More gas bottles, another mop rack, more life rafts.  I see a problem where there’s a sizeable gap in the plastic parts near the front.  I’ll have to correct that before I go on.  It’s way too noticeable.
     

     
    Port side of 16” gun turret #2.  The ladder on this side of the storage shed is all bent out of shape. Might be a good idea if I replaced it. I opened this hatchway too.  I don’t know if you recall or not, but the red fire hose hanger is made from 1/64” automotive striping tape.
     

     
    This is the very front of the superstructure.  It’s referred to as the “Conning Tower” and extends all the way up to the navigation bridge. The rack holds spare rail stations and the two side protrusions are antenna outriggers where the antennae tie off and feed into the conning tower.  They are made from 0.3mm copper wire and anchored inside through .3mm holes drilled in the plastic. This view also shows another gap between the port windows and the conning tower. Close-up photography is excellent at locating problem areas that are not noticeable when looking at the model with the naked eye.
     

     
    Close up of compressed gas bottles and both open and closed portholes. Every porthole has a brass photo-etch ring glued to it. I can show portholes either opened or closed at my discretion. The 4 objects attached to the side of the adjacent 5” gun platform are spare barrels for the 5” guns.
     

     
    This photo shows the ammo clip rings for the 40mm Bofor guns in detail, as well as the gun crew helmets.  These rings are brass photo-etch (PE) and have to be glued in place one at a time, starting with the bottom layer.  There are tiny tabs on the outer perimeter of each ring that you bend down to rest on the ring below.  This maintains the proper distance between rings, but it’s a real pain in the butt to hold them in place and apply glue to the tabs at the same time.
     

     
    This is looking down on all three decks at the front of the port side. Note the mop rack, the oxygen bottles, the life rafts, and the ladder up to the 40mm gun director.  I elected to open the hatchway to the flag bridge.  I do need to make windscreen washers on this side.
     

     
    OK, I know this is what you’ve been waiting for.  What this latest module looks like on the ship.  Here it is.
     

     
    If you’re new to my built posts, I elected not to mount my ship on brass pedestals, as is normally the case.  Instead, it’s mounted on walnut blocks laid out to represent the keel blocks under the ship when she was in drydock for her last refit.  I think it looks a lot better than having it stuck up on some brass pedestals, don’t you?
     

     
    OK, here’s the lower 3 decks of the superstructure mounted on the hull (not glued down).  Also, the #2 16” gun turret is in place.
     

     
    The next few pictures give you an idea of the complexity of a modern (WWII) battleship. And, the amount of detail that goes into a model of this size and scale.  In case you don’t remember, this model is 1:200 scale (1” = 200”, or 16.67 ft).  The model is a fraction over 53” long – almost 4-1/2 feet, and the actual USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) is 883 feet long.  The ship is on permanent display at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.
     

     
    Traveling down the starboard side.
     

     
    I know many of you think I’m anal, and you’re probably right.  But, every time I finish a sub-assembly or a module, I stop and count the number of pieces that went into that particular assembly.  I keep an Excel spreadsheet that totals up the number of parts, the number of assemblies, and the total parts count.  In case you have any interest at all, so far there are 4864 individual pieces in this model.  That includes all the guns that are not mounted yet, as well as the 40+ gun directors built but not yet installed.  It does NOT include all the tiny pieces of plastic glued to the safety net baskets.  These are counted as I piece.  This total includes 1041 plastic parts, 3272 individual brass photo-etched parts, and 348 resin parts.  Told you I was anal!
     

     
    Looks kinda impressive, doesn’t it?  But, believe it or not, I’m probably about only halfway finished.
     

     
    There is a lot of equipment that mounts on the main deck alongside the superstructure that I can’t glue in place yet.  This includes things like the lifeboats and divots, more 20mm gun platforms, and the like.  Also, none of the railings have been added – and there’s a ton of those!
     

     
    Believe it or not, most of the remaining assemblies are smaller and more delicate that what’s come so far.  The higher up you go, the more complex things become, and the masts, with all the antennas and radars, are totally unreal!
     

     
    I thought of placing the 5” gun turrets in place for this shot but decided nah, why risk damaging them.  You’ll just have to wait to see them in place.
     

     
    Yeah, I know, there are a few mistakes I've made so far. I try to catch as many as I can, but some will undoubtedly slip through. On the whole, though, I think they will be relatively hard to see once the ship is done and in it's case.
     

     
    01     I haven’t attached the boarding ladders to the sides of the hull yet either.  That will come later.
     

     
    All ready to start working on the next level.
     

     
    And oh yeah, I’ve already had a nameplate made for the ship when it’s finished.  Notice there’s no finish date on it!!
     

     
    OK, friends, that’s all for this post.  I hope you liked it.  So, until next time, stay safe, stay healthy, and stay home!
     
  6. Like
  7. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from BradG in CVE-73 USS Gambier Bay, Hasegawa 1/350   
    I love the faded paint job and weathering effects, very nice work!
  8. Like
    Squizzy reacted to BradG in CVE-73 USS Gambier Bay, Hasegawa 1/350   
    I finally managed to finish this kit a couple of years after starting it. It's a complex model with many small parts, however, the fit of the parts is exceptional. I used lifecolor USN paint sets number 1 and 2, which go down very nicely with airbrush or standard brush.  I decided not to use the deck decals, so the guide marks and the '73' at each end were painted on with masks I made myself, although if you want to, there is a commercially available masking set for the deck. I burned through a lot of Tamiya tape and I think my eyes still hurt from all the painting! Weathering was done with dry pigment and washes, cos I like a dirty ship.
     
    Gambier Bay was the only US aircraft carrier sunk by surface naval gunfire in the Pacific. As a part of task force 77.4.3, she was caught by Admiral Kurita's Battleship and Cruiser force during the Battle of Leyte Gulf in October 1944. It's reported she took hits from the Battleship Yamato, Battleship Kongo and Heavy cruiser Chikuma along with several other warships before sinking.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  9. Like
    Squizzy reacted to GDW in 1998 Shelf of Doom Rescue (1/48 Hasegawa Bf109F)   
    I finally found the Quick Boost resin exhaust set. The product title is, QB 48 110 Messerschmitt Bf 109F Exhaust. The parts look great and are a perfect drop fit. Exhaust shrouds are the kit parts which have been modified by thinning down the edges.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

  10. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from CODY in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  11. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from LSP_Ray in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  12. Like
    Squizzy reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". May 25- Cockpit Cont'd   
    May 3/20
     
    Thanks guys!  That’s a lot of comments- and a lot of pressure, so I’ll try to do a good job.
     
    After several hours of rescribing and adding rivet detail, both fuselage halves are now ready to accept cockpit parts.  After reviewing the instructions and sprue parts as thoroughly, a number of things about this kit stand out to me:
     
    The registration on the faces of all parts are excellent Pin marks are mostly on the sprue frames rather than the parts, like they should be, but Seam lines are everywhere and sometimes quite thick The instructions are both good and bad.  More on that later Cockpit detail is excellent Without a detailed engine or movable control surfaces, this model isn’t all that complicated The sprues are obviously made for several different versions of Typhoons and Tempests, since many parts are not used.  The included resin parts replace some of them with added detail, which is excellent Like all cockpits, you will need references to make sense of the instructions  
    Here is Sprue “I”, which has most of the cockpit parts.  Note all the deleted parts, including 3 different joy stick top rings, which are replaced by a 4th resin one.
     
     

     
     
    The spruce itself.  Mostly crisp and clean, but lots of seam marks on the sides of every single part.
     
     

     
     
    An example of the instructions for Step 12.  You really need to follow all those lines carefully to figure out where everything attaches and it would seem, everything should be glued together solidly.
     
     

     
     
    However, later in Step 15, those outside cockpit cage walls are free-floating again, so one better be careful to not glue the rear parts too solidly in Step 12?
     
     

     
     
    The paint guide really bugs me, because the labels make no sense in either language, and why all green droplets, which is confusing.  If they can show red and yellow parts, why not a red droplet or yellow one?
     
     

     
     
    Despite my complaints above, this appears to be a really good kit overall, so we’ll see.  It’s not up there with a modern Tamiya kit, but it blows away my last 2 Kitty Hawk kits already.
     
    The inside of the fuselage has 3 big pin marks, but only the central one needs to be eliminated, since the outer ones will be hidden.  Even my Tamiya Spitfire had 4 of them to be removed, so this is nothing.
     
     

     
     
    And since the instructions are a bit confusing and I have to navigate them anyway, I’m going to do something I’ve never done before:  A Step by Step Guide!  From Step 1 to Step 46, I will show each step and how I did them, although some of the steps are not required.  I’m also going to show how I do my cockpits in detail, also step by step, since I have had a request for same and I love doing them.  Here are some of my past efforts at the bottom of a thread started by Uncarina for those who might be interested.
     
     
    LSP Cockpits
     
     
    On all my recent cockpits I have been spraying them with gloss black first.  This is not really "black basing" as some describe this technique, but it does accomplish the following:
     
     1)  The black color creates natural shadows when the interior green is sprayed from above at an angle.
     2)  Many of the cockpit components are black anyway, especially the front instrument panel.
     3)  As with a primer, the black reveals flaws that can be fixed early and repainted.
     4)  I generally use a lot of instrument and placard decals, so the gloss finish is a perfect surface
     5)  Gloss black with dull coat is a lot smoother than ordinary flat black paint. 
     6)  Liquid masks can be removed from a gloss surface much easier than a dull and flat finish.
     
    So let’s start with Step 1, the right side of the cockpit side walls.  For reference, “PUR” are resin parts and “PE” are photo-etch.
     
     

     
     
    I’m not sure what those clamp-like PE17 parts are for (flare holders?), but there are 6 of them and only 5 spots to glue them to.  Checking references, I count 6 of them, so I used them all.  PE 14 was also glued into place, as were I61 and I63, since they will all be Black.  There were heavy seam lines on all parts that needed to be sanded off.
     
     

     
     
    Step 2, the left side.
     
     

     
     
    Here I attached everything, except for I26 and D16, which will be Aluminum and Light Brown, respectively, so they will be painted and attached later.  BTW, I26 is often Black, but I'm going with Aluminum for more contrast on a Black background.
     
     

     
     
    Step 3, the left cockpit cage.  Lots of “PUR” resin here.
     
     

     
     
    Here there is an instruction error, because this side is "I2" and not "I1" as indicated, which is for the other side and there were seam lines everywhere which took a lot of time to remove where they will be seen.  Looking at the pic, I need to remove some more!
     
    Here I left off wheel PUR4, since it will be painted Red Brown, but also the throttle control with 4 resin parts, because it is so fragile.  I’m guessing I will be attaching it permanently at the end of the build to avoid breakage.  Note that I also added a pin to foot pedal(?) I69, which will be painted Bright Red, but it has no natural attachment point to the cage despite a large circular recess for this part.  With the pin I can paint it and just slide it on later.
     
     

     
     
    Step 4, the right cage parts.   I2 should be I1.
     
     

     
     
    Here I left off foot pedal I68 like the other side and handles I7, which will be yellow, but I also left off I30 and I68, only because they will be difficult to paint when installed.
     
     

     
     
    So that’s it for now and likely another few weeks.  I’m headed to my cabin for a while to get away from all this virus turmoil and hopefully experience a bit of normalcy.  Crazy times indeed.
     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  13. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from Fooesboy in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  14. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from chukw in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  15. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from Shawn M in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  16. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from LSP_K2 in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  17. Like
    Squizzy got a reaction from Lothar in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
     
     
     
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
     
    Thanks for looking!
  18. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Pascal in 1/18 Ferrari F40 LM and GT   
    I finally put this project back on the modelling table.
     
    Nine of my 11 Bburago F40's will go to the production process. Some pics of the F40 graveyard  :
     

     

     
    A couple of years ago a friend of mine made about 30 of these with his CNC milling machine :
     

     
    The goal is to make a frame like this one from a Kyosho F40 :
     

     
    That's were this project got stuck. I had no idea how to turn those A's into a frame, untill about a week ago : TATAAAA, I have an idea. First step : glue a piece of plasticard - in a shallow angle - on top of the frame :
     

     
    Step 2 : connect the A's with some scrap plastic :
     

     
    First dryfit shows that there's some tweaking left to do, but the idea seems to work :
     

     
    The Kyosho will serve as a donor for a lot more parts, here's a couple of them  :
     

     
    Sincerely
     
    Pascal
  19. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Koralik in F-4J Phantom II VF-151 Tamiya 1:32   
    This time one of the most beautiful jets in the world.
     
    F-4J Phantom II VF-151 Tamiya 1:32
    I made this model as always straight from the box, taking this model to the workshop you will not have any problems.
    Everything here fits together perfectly.
     

  20. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Marcel111 in 1/32 F-14D VF-213 - Finished!   
    The exhausts are in and she's very much standing on her own legs:
     

     

     

     
    The position lights made from red or blue acrylic sheet turned out quite nice:
     

     
    Targeting pod:
     

     
    The True Details wheels are outstanding:
     

     

     

     

     
    This is by far the most challenging build I have done and even though I get gratification from the result, I am borderline not enjoying building anymore since every single step of the process is painful. Hardly anything fits, I guess Aires just threw in the towel on fit also, the front door hinges in no way match the Aires gear well. Can't wait to get her done!
     
    Cheers,
     
    Marcel
  21. Like
    Squizzy reacted to chuck540z3 in LSP Cockpits   
    Very nice work guys!
     
    I'll play.  My most recent Kitty Hawk Harvard/Texan.
     

     

     
    Kitty Hawk F-5E
     

     

     
    Tamiya Spitfire IXc
     

     

     

     
    Tamiya F-15C
     

     

     
    Trumpeter A-10
     

     

     
    Tamiya P-51D
     

     

     

     
    Tamiya F-4E
     

     

     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  22. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Pascal in 1/18 Ferrari 333SP, Daytona 24hrs 1998   
    Spent a lot of hours fiddeling ...
     
    After endless dryfiting, I found the solution to the problem : I moved a hole in the gearbox a bit more to the front :
     
    Lousy pic, but it shows the old and new hole (barely)

     
    A copper tube will be fitted in the new hole, this will serve as an attachment for a piece that's part of the suspension  :
     

     
    I added some tiny parts to the gearbox (triangles, strips, circles, etc) :
     

     

     
    Made 4 of these with the lathe, they will attach the exhaust tubes to the exhaust :
     

     

     
    Dryfit  :
     

     

     

     
    It was a lot of work, but I'm happy that it went well.
     
    Sincerely
     
    Pascal
  23. Like
    Squizzy reacted to Nessus in 1/48 Tamiya Opel Blitz   
    Its been a while, but things have been getting done in the background (just not many things with cockpits)...........
     
    Anyway, the Tamiya Opel Blitz in 1/48, with the Tamiya 20 mm Flakvierling on the bed, all out of the box apart from some matchsticks, paddle pop sticks and barrels. Comments welcome.
     
    Still trying to decide as to whether I should add some empty shells from brass tubing. They would only be about 5 mm long
     




  24. Like
    Squizzy reacted to D.B. Andrus in LSP Cockpits   
    F-4D cockpit to an unfinished Tamiya kit:
     

     

     

     

     

  25. Like
    Squizzy reacted to GDW in LSP Cockpits   
    Fantastic thread! It's so nice to see these all in one place. I will be returning often to soak up the good work.
     
    1/12 ESCI F-16 Cockpit
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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