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Fvdm

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  1. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from williamj in RCAF SPITFIRES.. Mk XIVe..duel build.   
    Wow, what an outstanding cockpit!
  2. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Robthepom in WnW Felixstowe - Finished Thanks   
    thanks Bob
     
    Did a lot of work on the rear seam, took me 3 goes before i was happy, very satisfying to finish it. The engines are a delight and the moulding on each radiator is beautiful, i'm going to leave them OOB just some weathering and oil stains



     
     
  3. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Garage21 in 1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways   
    Work continues on the back end.  Progress comes slowly...  Lots of work left to be done...
     

     

     

     
    Last picture is the pot metal pieces that came with the kit next to the brass pieces I started fabricating this evening.
     
  4. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Dandiego in Hornet over Hanoi   
    Adding some markings....
     
    This was always going to be a colorful bird. So here goes.
     
    Fuselage stripes. Red decals.
     

     
    Hump stripes.
     

     

     
     
     

     
    So there you go. Trying for a typical squadron look from the 70's.
     
    Dan
     
     
  5. Like
    Fvdm reacted to williamj in RCAF SPITFIRES.. Mk XIVe..duel build.   
    Quick update..went a bit nerdy in the cockpits..scratched up a few parts,bits and bobs kinda thing...ground down the kit side walls and went at it.
    Tried to make them look busy and spitfire ish..was all we were after.
      More later..thanks for following.  Bill.
     
     


















     
  6. Like
    Fvdm reacted to brahman104 in HK B-17...C 11/2 progress resumes!   
    Alrighty, after replying to 11 comments I think it was time to summarise the latest effort in a new post
     
    The latest little adventure in the journey has been aimed at trying to wrangle some acceptable looking transparent parts. Now, as you guys know, the early B-17's had some really interesting looking clear parts, prior to the introduction of power turrets on the E model.
     
    First of all, and perhaps more importantly, is that after lengthy discussions with Terry (TKB) about cowling shapes and always referring to this build as a C/D as I hadn't made up my mind, I finally decided that I will be making this a C model. The two mains reasons are a) cowl shape and no flaps (just to differentiate a little more from later models) and b) single .50 mounts in the radio room and bathtub, so there's more room to see the detail inside!
     
    Anyway you guys came for the pics, so here they are....
     

     
    First of all, I made patterns in Hydrocal for vac forming an assortment of clear parts. What's the big rectangular one you might ask? hopefully, that will be become clear soon (pardon the pun....)
     
    First of all, I did the observer's dome. This came out looking pretty good, and best of all, a nice match to the hatch I'd already made in the laser cutter.. *disclaimer - I have yet to polish theses too
     

     

     

     

     
    Seeing I was on a win, next came the waist windows. This is where the rectangular piece came in - it is a representative piece of fuselage with the correct curvature at the waist window. I would form oversize pieces then patiently whittle them down to fit in the previously made holes in the fuselage.
     

     
    Then, I made the removable window separately, including its triangular shaped depression at the rear for the gun barrel.
     

     
    This was then traced onto the waist window and the excess carefully removed. This took most of the day to do, with many, many dry fits!!!!!!
     

     

     
    Till I finally had a very nice fit in the existing window
     

     
    Now the real trick. I also had to continue the relief on the back side of the existing window (although this is formed in aluminium on the real thing, so I didn't include it in the master shape. I had an idea that I could just vac-form and extra 2 removable windows and graft the triangle piece onto the rear.
     
    And so with much more careful "whittling" of the acrylic, I ended up with this....
     

     

     

     
    And now for the "in-use" shots...
     

     

     
     
    Yes, they still need a lot of cleaning up, but for something I have been absolutely dreading doing for so long, it didn't really end up being that hard, just a lot of careful and laborious filing and sanding to get things to fit. Not completely there yet, but I'm chalking that up for the win!!!!!
     
    I think I'm finally starting to tame this beast!!!
     
    Craig
     
    p.s. Luckily the Townsville floods did not affect the house, or much more importantly, my workbench!!!!!!!!
     
     
  7. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Focke Factory II   
    Just another quick update:  thinning the seat backs as the kit ones are way too thick.
     
    I got some grief for this on the FW-190 Facebook pages.  Gerry Crandall says the seat back is armoured, it's actually 8mm thick.  When I ran the Vernier over the Hasagawa seat, it's as near as dammit 1mm whereas it should be 0.25mm.  Now my thinning works out between 0.34 and 0.4mm, still too thick in scale but visually a heck of a lot better.
     
    The painted seats in the centre are for the current batch of  seven D series, the grey ones on the left are for the Hasegawa A series in the pile, the three blue on the right are for PCM early A series and their Ta-152 C kits.  There are a couple more PCM kits somewhere!  And three Zoukei-Mura H versions of the Ta-152 as well.
     
    The second photo is my thinning kit.  The two main tools are the scrapers, one is from the Zoukei-Mura Pro-Zetsu range, the other is the Trumpeter copy.  The trumpeter one isn't bad, just the Z-M one is so very, very good,  
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
     
     
    Regards,,
     
    Bruce Crosby
  8. Like
    Fvdm reacted to ericg in CAC Boomerang A46-217 “Hep Cat” Finished.   
    Now that all the hard work has been done I primed the model and went over it with a fine toothed comb, fixing a few small flaws here and there and ensuring that the painting stage would be as hassle free as possible. 
     

     
    I painted some areas with Alclad Duralumin and then used some masking fluid to simulate chipping over the airframe.
     

     
    I sprayed a heavy pre shade over the model with some patchy areas around places that would see a lot of wear and tear.
     

     
    This was followed by a thin coat of SMS Foliage Green, allowing most of the pre shade to still be seen.
     

     
    I then highlighted and mottled over the model using a lightened and thinned mixture of the base colour.
     

     
    A highly thinned mix of the original Foliage Green was then sprayed over the model to blend everything together.
     

     
    Some of the masking fluid removed to check how the effect looks.
     

     
    I used Tamiya white flexible tape to mask off the demarcation of the white tail.
     

     
    I then used the Tamiya masking tape that has plastic sheeting attached to it to protect the rest of the model and sprayed the white.
     

     
    The Boomerang is starting to look the part. 
     

     
     
     
     
  9. Like
    Fvdm reacted to 109 in Junkers D.1 from WNW   
    Hi all,
    a little achievement, at least for me ... :-)
    Proof of concept: I sprayed the complete model with a mix of thinners and hairspray adjusted to work with the lacquers used on the model.

     
    Dark areas are still wet of rinsing the model under the shower. This gives an idea of the original shades.
    This is the first time use on a model after a few years of empiric research – and failures!
    Erhh.. happy little accidents! (Love you, Bob Ross!)

     
    The dried model shows the bleached finish to advantage.
    Now the mechanical part of the physicochemical weathering can begin :-)

     
    Have a nice modeling evening! Bernd.
  10. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Pastor John in Revell Bf 109 G-10 Erla   
  11. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Iain in 'Grace' type two-seat Spitfire in 1:32   
    And where we're at this evening...
     

     
    Entry doors in place. These were going to be in the open position, but client would like to be open and close canopies, so fitted closed now.
     
    Rear is based on a spare front door, cut to size, twisted to match fuselage profile and new 'hinge' added from stretched sprue.
     
    Very happy with fit at this stage - need to get some paint on:
     

     
    Dummy red 'gun squares' masked and sprayed - but I think they're a little dark - so will re-mask and touch in:
     

     

     
    Nose underside glossed ready for black aircraft code 'V':
     

     
    Dry assembled prop (excuse dog hair - not noticed when I took photo - but had just stroked the dog!).
     
    Some decals to go on the spinner - and everything will be matted down - but starting to look busy:
     

     
    Blue skies...
     
    Iain
     
     
  12. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Garage21 in 1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways   
    Seems like that's what happens every time I try and build a kit.  I suppose that's why i've never competed a large-scale model in less than 9 months.
  13. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Garage21 in 1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways   
    Second attempt at rear end using actual blue prints proved to be much more successful.  The outer line across the rear wing and rear stabilizer is a perfect continuation from one component to the next.  Only way I could figure out how to do that was to build both pieces as a single assembly and then split them when done.  This way everything should align perfectly.
     
    Pictures are post fabrication but pre-cleanup.
     
    G21.
     

     

     

     
    The new piece is a few cm larger however as I went off the measurements of the Sopwith Company blueprints and not the plans that came with the Model Airways kit..
  14. Like
    Fvdm reacted to LSP_K2 in 1:24 P-47 Razorback   
    Since I'm currently updating this kit in the database, I thought I'd go ahead and throw in this image, to be used as a thumbnail for the corresponding article.
     

  15. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Martinnfb in Make the others jealous   
    Today i bought this kit. when I first saw this kit I immediately fell in love.
     

     
  16. Like
    Fvdm reacted to F`s are my favs in F-117A • Nighthawk   
    Guys, i'm back! This time not with something in 1/48 or smaller. That thing...
     

     
    It's the Trumpeter kit, my second 1/32 scale model, and it's quite huge It's so ever slightly bigger than the F-15 in lenght and even in wingspan, which impressed me a bit. Alright, let's do it. I plan a rather slow and longer build. Some may know very well the quality and what's in the box, but i'm gonna make a thorough review these days whatsoever. Here is just a quick glimpse:
     

     

     

     

     
    And of course, i'll take advantage of the AFV Club's tinted canopy, cause i think it's absolutely necessary for a good looking F-117. I cannot tint such a huge canopy by myself and not leave any trace of dust, etc. In 1/48 or less - it's ok because the little imperfections are almost invisible, but this one is one, enormous and two, with perfectly flat straight sides. 
     
    I'll also use the GTR Wheel set that i didn't use in my F-15E. The kit tires are from very hard rubber and quite small in size. I have the original dimensions of the plane's tires and did the quick measurements. The GTR tyres are perfect. Only the front tyre is a bit smaller in diameter so i might still use the kit's rubber tyre for the nose wheel. And on the other hand, i know that the F-117 had just about the same avionics as the F-18 and just about the same landing gear as the F-15, so that's the perfect moment to use the gorgeous GTR tyres and wheels.
     
    And finally, the extra PE screen for the FLIR and DLIR. This is obligatory as well, because the provisions for these sensors are huge. I did a little mistake though by getting the 4x6 screen mesh in believing that the holes are rombs. Yeah, they are rectangulars... i couldn't notice that on the photos and this is my firt time using such a PE screen. Nevertheless, i think i can place the screen at an angle so they can look as rombs.
     

     

     
    I plan to start from the landing gear and make everything moveable again, for "2 models in 1" - in a parked and in-flight mode. The canopy, the gear, all the control surfaces and the bomb bays will close/open. As for the airframe - i have no idea yeat, but i think it will be one of the early Nighthawks, something Desert Storm-related in a full stealth mode with all the lights and antennas retracted and without the two RCS enhancers on the sides. Quite weathered as well. I'm only looking for a pilot figure and if i cannot find any, i plan to get the F-16 resin figure+seat set by Aires. But i'll wait on that one yet.
     
     Nighthawk! 
  17. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Durangokid in Marine F-4J Phantom - Decal time!   
    The mr Hobby airbrush looks nice. I needed a bigger airbrush when painting a uss nimitz 1:350 and i decided to buy a 0.6mm needle for my H&S. But a special airbrush for large surfaces is real handy.
  18. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Garage21 in 1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways   
    Have you ever been sitting around your workshop when suddenly you say to yourself, "Self...  I wonder how long it would take to hand make 110 1:16 scale turnbuckles and what would they look like when I was done?"
     
    The answer is "about 10 days" and this.
     

     
    There is still much sanding, shaping and polishing to be done, not to mention redialing the center hole and running the safety wire.  But at least they've been fabricated and I can now move on.
     
    Stay tuned.
  19. Like
    Fvdm reacted to JayW in Heavy Mod - 1/18 21st Century Toys P-47D Razorback   
    Kinda fired up about this - I feared the flap leading edge skins more than anything else, and they are turning out OK.  Hard work, but OK:
     

     
    Note the airfoil shape, and the leading edge ribs I have made to wrap the thin plastic skins around.  You see six of seven skin sections there.  The one with the lugs protruding from the nose was by far the most difficult one.  Second most difficult will be the long missing one.  The airfoil shape is pretty authentic EXCEPT it is too tall.  But the whole wing is too tall, so that is how it has to be.  
     
    A couple more shots:
     
      
     

     
    Note at the three main support locations, the leading edge skin is indented.  That is because when the flap linkage and flap are fully stowed, the linkage would clash with the flap nose if not locally reshaped.   This shows up clearly on real live Thunderbolts with flaps down.
     
    Next post I will have this RH flap 100% complete.  Then it is on to the LH flap.  Take care.
     
     
  20. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from coogrfan in Make the others jealous   
    Today i bought this kit. when I first saw this kit I immediately fell in love.
     

     
  21. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in Make the others jealous   
    Cooooooooooooooooool!
     
    I just talked the fiance into going to see this with me tomorrow night! 
     
     
     
    I think the only reason she agreed was that its at the "Alamo Draft House" where they serve you food and alcohol right in your movie seat at table in between two people. I think her thoughts were "with a rum milkshake I can sit through anything!"
     
     
     
     
     
  22. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from scvrobeson in Make the others jealous   
    Today i bought this kit. when I first saw this kit I immediately fell in love.
     

     
  23. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from LSP_K2 in Make the others jealous   
    Today i bought this kit. when I first saw this kit I immediately fell in love.
     

     
  24. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Durangokid in Marine F-4J Phantom - Decal time!   
    Thanks fellas, I really appreciate all the nice comments.  I wanted to mention what airbrush I use to primer or gloss coat a big model.  I use the GSI Mr. Hobby PS-290 and I absolutely love it.  I use a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity for most of my detail work which I really like but it's not good for laying down a lot of paint.  It was difficult to lay down a good gloss coat without getting edge dryness because it's such a small line to work with.  Not to mention it took forever to paint the large subjects we all enjoy.  
     
    I wanted to get the Iwata HP-TH but didn't want to spend the $300 US dollars to buy it.  I ran across some reviews raving about the PS-290  and that it was virtually the same as the HP-TH without the MAC valve.  They sure look the same anyway.  I was able to buy mine a few years ago for $130 US dollars.  I couldn't be happier with my purchase!  I don't have the largest modeling budget anymore so finding something that works well on a reasonable price is important to me.  It comes with two tips, one a standard round and the other a fan tip.   I use the fan tip and as you can see from the phantom photo, it lays down the paint like butter.  No more streaks or dry edges and I can paint an entire 32nd scale phantom in minutes.  The only issue one might have is that it takes significantly more air pressure to spray then a detail brush.  I have a Super Silent 20A which isn't recommended but I've had zero problems getting enough air for modeling purposes.  However, I'm not sure a tankless compressor would keep up so keep that in mind if you consider this airbrush. 
     
    I hope this is helpful to others that are looking for a solution to better coverage when it comes to this type of airbrushing.  
     

     

     

     
    P.S. It really came in handy when semi-glossing this beast!
     

  25. Like
    Fvdm reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    evening folks
     
    still plugging away on the wheel bay...
     
    wanted to make the big spar attatchement seen here (the long black thing on the left with loads of bolts in it)
     

     
    scaled the drawing and started drilling lots of holes in a square tube of brass of the same size...(always drill any hole in anything first, before doing anything else...)
     

     
    ..put a template each side and ground away the waste...
     

     
    ..and added small lengths of wire & micro nuts...
     

     
    ..andf fitted to the spar...
     

     
    ..also made the gear retraction unit from a bit of perspex acrylic - filed & sanded to the shape with a disc added to the front face but allowing for the slide on gear legs to come later...
     

     
    ..finished all the ribs...
     

     
    ..and sprayed everything with Xtracolour zinc chromate - nothing is assembled yet, just placed for the photos
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ..thats it for now - back soon
     
    TTFN
     
    Peter
     
     
     
     
     
     
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