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Fvdm

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  1. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Tolga ULGUR in Finished !!! 1/32 Revell Junkers Ju-88A-1   
    Great paintjob.
  2. Like
    Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in Aviatik 'Berg' D.I   
    Hi all,
    I've been working on preparing the wings, fin/rudder, ailerons, tail planes, elevators and their associated support struts.
    The struts should, I think, have steel reinforcing pins moulded through them, but I found the 'Z' shaped cabane struts had ends without pins.
    Also the fuselage indents for locating these struts had no locating hole.
    The single piece fin and rudder had no locations for attaching it to the fuselage and neither did the tail planes.
    The separate ailerons and elevators also has no locating pins/holes.
    Therefore I added support pins of 0.6 mm diameter for the wing struts and ailerons and 0.4 mm diameter pins to locate the fin/rudder, elevators and tail planes.
     
    Mike 
     

     

     

  3. Like
    Fvdm reacted to composite guru in Hasegawa 1/16 Sopwith Camel   
    Finally got the wings on. Getting the thing sat flat was the hardest bit. 
    Just the engine and a few other panels to go on and finish ringing it. 
    |https://thumbsnap.com/TOpheKT5
    |https://thumbsnap.com/VLpxMNzx
    |https://thumbsnap.com/317FCmTO
  4. Like
    Fvdm reacted to composite guru in Hasegawa 1/16 Sopwith Camel   
    Hi, not been around for a while as I’ve been building smaller kits. 
     
    I have always wanted to build a museum type model of the Camel and finally go around to buying one. 
    This is the plastic version and not the larger wooden type so creating the wood effect was a learning curve for me as I’d never done it before. 
     
    Here are some pics of my build for you to look at. As you can see I’m trying to rig the structure as it would have been using reference photos as the kit asks you to rig most of the parts with one continuous piece of line. I’m making the turnbuckles by hand as no one seems to make 1/16 versions. That’s been a job as there are around 300 in the whole aircraft. 
     
    Anyway enjoy the build. 
     
    Hope the image links work ok. 
     
    Matt 
     















     
     
     
  5. Like
    Fvdm reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch. Oct 3/19. Finished!   
    DONE!
     
    I have posted pics of the finished model in the Ready For Inspection Forum here:
     
    1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E/N: "Kicked Up a Notch"
     
    Thank you everyone for your continued interest in this build.   I really appreciate your comments and feedback over the past 9 months.
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
     
     

     

     

     
     
  6. Like
    Fvdm reacted to hpetiers in Revell Super Hornet with lessons learned   
    hello gentlemen,
    thanks for your support! In the mean time Revell is sending me a new canopy so I guess I will be having it in a few days. That has not kept me away from progressing with my build.
    Panels have been filled with white primer:

     

     

     
     
  7. Like
    Fvdm reacted to shark64 in MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.   
    Paint job is done.
     

     

  8. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Mistel Combo   
    Hi Guys,
     
    A little more work on the Mistel braking chute.  I made the springs from fine brass wire.  The lanyard to the shackle is made from twisted lead wire and the shackle itself is from a Takom 1/35 Panther tank kit.
     
    Springs made from brass wire wound round plastic rod to get the shape.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    Springs superglued to the casing:
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    Twisted lead wire for the lanyard:
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    With the shackle in place:
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    That's all folks!
     
    Regards,
     
    Bruce Crosby
  9. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Mistel Combo   
    Hi Guys,
     
    More Mistel!
     
    Here's the port engine in its new colours: lots of masking but worth it.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    Masking up to paint the areas under the slats.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    With some White Aluminium plus Chrome from MMP.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    The original holes to locate the struts:  I had scaled them from the Dragon 1/48 model but like all things. it hadn't been researched properly and the points are in the middle of panels, not load bearing frames or spars.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    And it just jarred on my nerves.  So I re-drilled the holes, the front one just behind the cockpit rear bulkhead frame, the other two  on the main frame just ahead of the undercarriage doors.  The gear legs hang from this frame and the wings are bolted on top, so this is exactly the right place!
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    The original line up:
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    New line up:  see how the code numbers are no longer aligned.
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    As it was:
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    And now.  Note I've outlined the Yellow 3 with a black marker pen, only roughly as if hand painted by a 16 year old conscript.  (My mental age!)
     
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
     
    Hope you like it so far.
     
    Regards,
     
    Bruce Crosby
     
  10. Like
    Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in Aviatik 'Berg' D.I   
    Hi all,
    I've been hammering away at the fuselage internal details.
    Everything is fitted to the right side of the fuselage with regular testing for the fit of the left side.
    Included are control lines, trigger cables, control rods to the engine etc.
    I still have some bits to do, like the two machine guns and final weather etc, but I'm getting there,
     
    Mike   
     

     

  11. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Dennis7423 in HK Models Avro Lancaster Mk.I WIP: Rear Turret Internals 12/13/19   
    i will follow.
  12. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Dennis7423 in HK Models Avro Lancaster Mk.I WIP: Rear Turret Internals 12/13/19   
    All-
     
    Since I have completed my HK 1/32 B-17G, it's time to get cracking on another project. My brother and I were contracted two years ago to build some large scale kits for a flight museum that will open in Salt Lake City, Utah in a few years. I figure, why not get started on another kit!
     
    The plan for the museum display is to show, in large-scale, the bombing campaign in Europe using heavy bombers, their escorts, and their opposition. We have completed a B-17E so far, with a B-17F, B-17G, B-24D, B-24J, and Lancaster planned for the heavies. The hope is to make them more or less as accurate as possible, to help share the story of the bombing campaign against Germany. The museum has given us pretty free reign as far as what specific aircraft we model, as long as it was operational in the European campaign.
     
    I chose to get started with the HK Models 1/32 Lancaster. After having so much fun building their B-17G, I wanted to get cracking on another one of their excellent kits.
     
    So, in steps Lancaster Mk.I EE139, "Phantom of the Ruhr". Originally assigned to 100 Squadron on May 31st, 1943, she went on to fly 121 missions, including 15 trips to Berlin. I plan to model her during her early years, where she wore fuselage codes HW-R. She was later assigned to 550 Squadron, and bore fuselage codes BQ-B.
     
    a3425306814_10 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
     
    While I don't have any in-progress shots yet, I have started on a few small modifications to the kit (chopped up the cockpit floor). Here's what I can glean from photos so far, and I would love any input anyone can provide for this particular airframe:
     
    She was an early Mk.I, without side blisters to her canopy. Additionally, from photographs, it appears that she has aluminum interiors to her front turret, aluminum landing gear legs, and aluminum hubs to her wheels. All signs point to her being a very early Mk.I.
     
    PhantomofTheRuhrBefore100thOperation by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
     
    img012 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
     
    24336d1142014385-lanc-phantomoftheruhr_144 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
     
    08741b6a17bc6f1e690930dc43d2f8c5 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
     
    Here's a few questions I have for the boffins:
     
    1. What type of bomb sight would she have? I have a feeling she has an early SABS (Stabilized Automatic Bomb Sight) because she is such an early bird, but I am not sure, and its not entirely clear in the photos.
     
    2. Would she have her fuselage windows painted over on the sides? (EDIT: It looks like in the last photo I posted, that she does indeed her her windows. I hadn't noticed that before).
     
    Hoping you all follow along on what will surely be a long journey once again. Thanks for tuning in!
     
    - Dennis S.
      Thornton, CO USA
  13. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Delayar in Sopwith Camel Le Rhone C1555 "Suds" (WNW, 1/32)   
    Really nice!!
  14. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Great job so far! It is turning out real nice with the lights. 
  15. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Thanks Troy!
     
    Well we officially have a GBPB! (Great Big Pointy B@$*!d)  This is going to be one TALL model  display when done
     

     
     
     
     
     
    The wings are at this time, just push fit into the fuselage, but the fuselage is 85% complete, and the fit was surprisingly good. Its a loooooooooong model though! The fit of the cockpit was good all around, and the nose cone has really started making it look like a zipper now. I have blended the sections of the cockpit that had to wait until the fuselage was assembled, but now I still need to go back and add the photo etch details to the inside areas of the cockpit, then finish up painting those areas the cockpit color. After those are dry, I will mask them off and repaint the ODG on the instrument hoods:
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    Even the area at the nose where 4 panels come together fit exceptionally well, and needed only mild sanding to bring the nose cone into alignment and smoothness with the other 3 panels:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    The only fit issue I experienced was on the rear spine panel on the port side. This was likely due to my own error in assembly, but has been dealt with using PPP and Mr Surfacer Black 1500:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Ok guys, this was shot with my crappy cell camera, and of course with the lights off and with YouTube dumbing down the quality, its kind of a crap video, but you can get an idea of what the lights look like with the fuselage closed up. The top and bottom asynchronous flashing beacons will get a small piece of fiber optic cable cut to a size to sit in the small cut tube that the MLED sits in, so it will shoot light directly up into each beacon light that will get glued on top of the hole. These both will eventually get painted red.
     
     
     
     
     
     
    The only down side here is the exhaust really only shows up bright like this with the lights off. In most situations, I will likely be displaying the 104 in a lit contest or show type lighting. However, you can still see the exhaust light flickering and the color by changing the angle you look at it, and if you look more up inside the exhaust. The effect is just a bit more subtle with the lights on. The other lights, including the cockpit lights you can still readily see with the lights on.
     
    I'm going for a very clean (display/vignette wise) look, so I'm hoping the clear rod will clean up nicely, and I can cut it off at a desired angle later on the bottom of the base. Ill likely add some chrome paint or foil there on the bottom of the display/end of the clear tube to help bounce the light back through the clear rod.  I will determine the length of the rod later when I know how much room I have to work with in my display cabinet. (I'm definitely going to have to raise my second to bottom shelf to accommodate the 104)
  16. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Vynce804 in HK Models 1/32 B25   
    Ok so I’ve had this in my stash for ages and only now do I feel confident to build it.  I’m really excited about the prospect and can’t wait to get started.  Over the years I’ve had it I’ve bought several aftermarket items, resin wheels, decals, paint masks and the ‘big ed’ pe set.  I bought this last item a while ago and even though I’m not a massive pe fan I’m going to give it a go... at least some of it anyway.  Not 100% sure which particular aircraft I will build, it will be an OD machine with a NMF underside that is for sure.
    cheers
    matt

  17. Like
    Fvdm reacted to curiouslysophie in Tamiya 1/32 P-51D Mustang   
    I have recently finished my Ar 234 so now I fancied doing some Allied aircraft for a bit of a change. To start them off I thought I’d work on my first Tamiya kit, and it is a lovely kit! After the frustration of working on the Ar 234 and Fly’s lackadaisical sense of proper fit or instructions Tamiya’s kit is a dream.
     
     As always I’m not modelling a specific machine and I’m doing a fictional paint scheme. I am adding a lot of aftermarket to this one as well, including:
    Eduard’s Bid Ed set
    HGW belts and wooden floor
    CMK wheels (still not sure about these)
    Aires M2 .50 Cals
    Eduard ammo belts
    HGW wet transfers for markings and stencils
    Yahu control panel
    Barracuda seat, cockpit upgrade set, cockpit side walls, and placard decals.
     
    Ive never done a NMF before, so this should be a learning experience. Has anybody done one using MRP paints before? If so, any tips?
     
    I have been using a combination of Brett Green’s How To Build book and following Chuck540z3’s “kicked up a notch” build to help, along with a ton of internet reference photos.
     
    Without further delay here are the first pics, shots of the completed Packard Merlin;
     

     

     
    i added the various wiring and piping needed along the sides as well as the Eduard crank arms and scratch building ignition rails and wires. Sorry for the photo quality!
     
    Hope you enjoy the thread and I’ll post some more soon
  18. Like
    Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in Aviatik 'Berg' D.I   
    Hi all,
    The engine is now completed.
    I've added the ignition leads and spark plugs, timing mechanism, oil filler caps, water pump and coolant pipe, vale levers and springs and carburettor lever.
    I've also made the exhaust pipes from 1.8 mm diameter brass tube mounted onto 1.4 mm tube - the kit items had 'solid' bores.
    Test fitted into its mounting frames.
     
    Mike   
     

     

     

     

  19. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Antonio Argudo in Bf 109G-6 ERLA "Double Chevron" II./JG 3 "Udet"   
    Hi everyone, so after a couple of weeks left aside did some progress, she is  airborne now! cheers 




  20. Like
    Fvdm reacted to tchwrma in 20th Anniversary Monthly Raffles!   
    After a long time from April, and with a first package lost, then resended by Radu, I finally have received my Raffle prize.
     

    Thanks to Radu, to Kevin and to LSP!
     
    Paulo.
  21. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Brett M in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair - Done!   
    Wow, thanks everyone. Glad to see you're liking the progress!
     
    If you see something I've done wrong, please don't be shy.....tell me so I can fix it!  
     
    Minor update, O2 tank painted, decaled and installed. Not too thrilled about the bands that hold it to the bulkhead, so I may do more work on them...... Also, added the red "Caution...." decal below the head rest (I should get that done!).
     

     
    Thanks again for looking. 
     
    Brett
  22. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Progress!!!!!   And lots of it.
     
     
    Here we are at the point of being about ready to button up the fuselage. Normally that is a major step, but in the case of this F-104D, its a HUGE step because once its glued up, there will be NO coming back to fix anything if I have an issue with an MLED, or its attachment point. So here we go..............
     
    I decided that the cold white light LED being used for the exhaust didn't look right, as well as looking like all the other lights in the set. I took a mix of Tamiya clear yellow with a bit of clear red and clear orange added til I was happy. I was in a debate with myself about weather to paint the LED bulb itself, or to paint the inside of the clear rod. After the previous near disaster with the clear tube cracking out like ice with a chemical reaction between it and several thinners I decided Id take a chance and paint the bulb itself:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    After some quick testing on how the clear rod fit around the bulb up inside the exhaust tube I decided it was time to spray some chrome enamel up inside the exhaust tube to reflect as much light as I could get down the clear tube. After that hardened off, I glued in the Brassin exhaust on the tube with some JB Weld as its going to bore the weight of most of the model. 
    A quick test of how the LED looks installed in the newly glued and painted exhaust tube confirmed things...........I was a happy boy!
     

     
     
     
     
     
    So now that both the exhaust tube and rod were complete (save cutting the rod off at the base to make the final height of the model) I decided to see if any of the light and reflection work I just went to did any good or not.
     
    So took a small video.    WE HAVE SUCCESS!!!! 
     
     
     
     
     
     
    I have seriously considered implementing the suggestions of painting up the clear rod to possibly reflect after burner rings or what not, but with the previous near disasters fresh in my mind, I think Im going to call that idea off, as I dont even want to chance cracking or even remotely blemishing the surface of the rod since it really needs to stay crystal clear to maintain the effect I want. If I messed something up, Im not sure I could stomach buying a new one and drilling/cutting it all again. 
     
    Now for the pièce de ré·sis·tance!     The jam packed fuselage is ready to close up. You'll notice our observer/photographer is absent here, as I accidentally broke his seat off while gluing up the starboard rear of the cockpit. No damage done to him, but Im waiting till I close up the fuselage to put him back in, since his arm is near straight out, and no one wants a broken arm for our guy:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    The exhaust is all glued in on the starboard side, and exhaust LED wired up with lead wires under the batter compartment:
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    Here's a look at where the magnetic door will go over the main mother board. Its cram CRAM packed in there! I honestly don't think I could have stuck one more set of mini wires through the connection holes I made in the bulkheads. Fortunately there are only 4 ground slots left, and 4 wires to hook up from the port side, then its completely full:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Im about to go the final fit test/light bleed test/final run though before I glue up the halves of the fuse.
     
    Cheers and thanks for looking in on me! 
     
     
     
     
     
  23. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Eenyweeny in Trumpeter Swordfish 1:32   
    Finally this model is ready. Here the pics without any comment.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     
  24. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Ill give you guys a bit of an idea how I handled the MLEDs in placing them. MSM recommends gluing the MLEDs in with the supplied UV activated gel by just gluing the wire near the clear light on the inside. 
    I though that presented a couple problems...............
    - One, it would make the MLEDs "free floating" over the clear window, as you could only glue the wire itself since you would not want to glue the MLED itself to the clear lens of the light
    - Two, it does lead to much MUCH more light bleeding, and would require much sealing of the fuselage to seal in any light bleed.
     
    My solution to this issue solved both problems. What I did was to cut a very small (2-4mm) section of brass tubing, taking a jewelers file, and cutting a notch in one side. Next I took some styrene card stock and glued the MLED down to it with some ultra thin CA, so capillary action wicks under it. Next I took and applied some UV activated gel around the MLED but not on it. 
     
    Prior to applying the activating UV light, I set the previously cut section of brass tubing over the MLED centering it in the middle, and positioning it so the notch I cut would allow the wire to exit and keep the tube flat and level around the MLED. Holding the tube section where I wanted it, I cured the gel with the UV light securing the MELD and the brass tubing. I then applied some more UV gel around the outside to make sure everything was secured as it should be. After all that was done and dried, I took some enamel chrome paint and applied some to the exterior and then very gently to the inside of the tube around the MLED but not on it. 
    This is the end result:
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    Its not perfect by ANY means, but nothing I do is. It also keeps the MLED from moving around after  being glued in, and keeps the face of the light towards the clear lens part, so it shines in the correct direction. The tubing also keeps the light from the MLED contained to the clear parts, and does not really allow any light to escape. 
    After installing the tube with the MLED in it, again using the UV cure gel, I took and coated the whole thing with Mr Surfacer black primer to completely eliminate any light bleed.
    Its not pretty, but nothing on the inside of this model is............but it is highly effective and will never be seen from the outside fortunately:
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    Well, the previous steps were the aforementioned "Two steps forward". Now I present the "One step back"......................
     
    I finally got around to getting the clear rod situated to receive the much larger exhaust LED the MSM kit comes with. This was done by drilling out the end with consecutively larger sized drill bits to a depth a bit deeper than the actual exhaust LED would extend into the clear rod. 
    Once that was done (VERY slowly to avoid any melting) I then took several steps of sand paper and polishing cloths to the inside of the hole for the exhaust LED polishing it as best I could so the light would shoot down the clear rod well.
    I was fairly happy with how it came out!  
     
    THEN I made the fateful decision to clean it after all my polishing. I used 91% alcohol to clean it.  Big, BIG mistake!!! 
     
    I applied the alcohol with a Q-tip/cotton swab, and all looked good...............for about 5 seconds..............then this happened:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    The alcohol attacked the drilled and polished inside of the rod and cracked and splintered it instantly like glass. You can see it all the way through the side walls of the drilled hole too:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    It also cracked out the bottom of the hole as well:
     

     
     
     
     
     
    BOOOOOOOOO!!   Well as usual, back to the drawing board!  I will cut off that cracked section of the rod, and re-drill and polish the hole, but this time, Ill use soap and water to clean it off!
     
    I hope to have the fuselage closed up with all the electronics inside this week. Even with the fuselage glued up together, because I made the hatches for the board and battery access removable with magnets, I will still have substantial access to the under side of the cockpit, as well as the battery compartment.
     
     
    Cheers! 
     
  25. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    I took the opportunity, with the boys in their final positions, to tape on the on both IPs (which are currently both getting a canvas covering of tissue paper soaked in gators grip and water) and get the cockpits taped temporarily into the fuselage to see what the lights look like at night.
    The IPs are still a bit brighter than I would like, but the pics and my camera didn't deal with the glare very well, and this makes things look brighter and with more glare than IRL.
     
    You'll have to excuse the crappy cell phone pics, but in real life you can see the instruments well, and things are a lot less bright:
     

     

     

     

     
     

     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    I actually got the individual landing/marker/wing light covers Futured last night, so tonight I should be ready to install them and get the first of the fuselage MLEDs installed.
     
    Cheers! 
     
     
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