Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in Kitty Hawk OS2U Kingfisher - S.O.D. resurrection
Yes, the KHM instructions are vague in parts and down right wrong (especially in order).
However the kit does go together well in the end, and with some additions like a reinforcing rod for the main float it can come out really nice.
Fvdm reacted to brahman104 in HK B-17...C 13/6 buckets of bullets.
Thanks Peter! Yep, I'm pretty happy with how they've turned out. Always learning though!
Thanks mate. It's all relative though.... my skills have grown exponentially through this project alone, but it might be another 44 years before I finish it!
Wow! another month flashes by with the blink of an eye. Precious little time spare for the bench, but......
Since I've moved to NZ and completed conversion onto their platform of choice I've been kept very busy. I thought I'd share a few pics from last week of the new bus. In my mind, still not as awesome as a Chinook (I am possibly biased), but not altogether bad either . Especially not when I get to fly around places like this!
Yes, all three are of me, freezing my a*$e off in -10 degrees at 7,000 feet. I know for some of you that's nothing, but when you've lived pretty much all of your life in the tropics........ Good fun though!
Back to the build. I've been chipping away for what seems like forever to blend the kit and my printed nacelles together in preparation for casting. I don't know how Iain is doing it with his Andover build, but I've certainly had enough of sanding for a while! So this is where they're at now:
They still look a bit rough, but they are in fact quite smooth. It was quite challenging to recreate the seam that runs around the nacelle. As always, it's done 90% by eye so hopefully will look the part once it's all together on the wing.
The shape of them alone makes for a challenging proposition when casting. No I'm certainly no expert on the matter, but hopefully by each nacelle on these brass pins, everything should stay in the same place.
Because I could, I drew up and laser cut some MDF for the mould boxes. I figured that would support the weight of the pin a bit better than simple balsa wood.
So that's pretty much where it's at right now. I'm waiting for the first pour of the silicone to go off so I can pour the second half. I really hope this works, as I don't fancy going through this process again!
Fvdm reacted to Stokey Pete in VFC-12 ‘Ambush’ Hornet - the shortest WIP ever. :)
As I suspected. They do look rather good side by side. I’m just waiting on some Perspex sheet to build their display mounts.
Fvdm reacted to Grunticus in Kitty Hawk OS2U Kingfisher - S.O.D. resurrection
The He 162 is almost finished, I still have to cut masks for various markings but don't feel like spending time on it right now. The Kingfisher box has been staring at me for well over a year. I had started engine construction and I must say I never had a more disappointing and frustrating start to a kit in my life before. In the box the kit looks to be awesome. And it IS. Detail seems very nice overall.
Why did I throw everything back in to the box over a year ago?
The plastic: soo brittle that smaller parts just burst in to pieces very easily. The sprue gates: made to withstand a 10 Megaton blast. Just ridiculous in some areas. See above. The instructions: insulting that Kitty Hawk let that sorry excuse for instructions go in to production. It is nearly impossible to see what goes where and how. For a very complex 70-part engine in an expensive kit, I find that highly unsatisfactory. Only a few detail-drawings would have done the trick here, something like an A-A, B-B sort of thing. Kitty Hawk: make an addendum and put it on your website. (Non-) Mating tabs and slots, pins and holes: too many of those. Correctly cut and cleaned up parts should fit and not require extra trimming and re-drilling holes. All of the above okay for a short-run, but not for a € 110 main-stream kit. Corners were cut, major ones me thinks.
Then why the resurrection? Well, it's The Scale and it's of a magnificent looking float plane. The greenhouse works like the real thing and in itself the kit has magnificent potential. Soooo, I took a deep breath, sighed, gave it The Finger, and got on with it. I was going to finish her as one of the Dutch East Indies birds that were on their way on a ship when the Dutch called it a day. These airplanes were diverted in their crates to Australia (already painted up Dutch), where they were repainted and used.
I had visions of a diorama where a Dutch plane sits in a hangar showing a partial RAAF repaint, but since I lost interest in Dutch subjects I chose t finish as an FAA Kingfisher, in the lovely Slate Gray / EDSG / Sky scheme, or the also lovely and less usual Non specular Sea Gray over Light Gray. I am still researching for photos drawings of the latter (bottom scheme below, the only one I found so far).
Can anyone recommend MRP paint equivalents for the lower scheme?
On to the engine. The instructions were no help here. The first thing I did was look at everything, thinking about what should go where, dry-fitting various options, and making a plan. I contemplated just glueing the cowling to the fuselage, but this is a no-go because the engine plus cowling 'float' in front of the fuselage firewall, resting on the engine brace rods. I decided to assemble cowling, cowling front ring, engine covers, and cowling flaps first and then figure out how to get the engine in there.
This is how the engine mounts are supposed to be assembled. I had to re-drill the holes and do lots of cleanup on the too thick connecting pins. Tamiya thin cement fixed them in place and on the backside I added drops of superglue to make sure they stayed put. First sigh of relief.
Here's the bracing glued to the front firewall. Again, the holes had to be widened. But: getting there.
A dry-fit finally revealed to daft-me how the enige assembly is meant to be attached to the cowling ring rest (which I already glued to the cowing).
Now, that was that, But can the engine assembly be fitted in to an already assembled cowling? I airbrushed the cowling inside interior green just in case I could get it in but not out again (experience )
Well, it fits with minimal effort IF you slide it in sideways. I did not have to exert any forces of significance to get it to slide in past the three tabs. Not sure if this can be done with the exhausts installed.
I secured the tab joints with thin cement and left it to dry. I will also add bits of superglue once it dried fully. Phew. I got that out of the way and out of my system. I will add parts of the exhausts later, from the outside in. I just did not have the stamina to battle with that extra feature right now. As you can se I also got some Eduard stuff to enhance the kit here and there.
In hindsight, it was me at fault and not Kitty Hawk. I commend them for the engineering of the engine, it makes it possible to build a very detailed engine right out of the box that one can show off through open engine panels. Construction is very sturdy once assembled, and very accurate and delicate. I just lost my patience the first time around. What I did today, I could have done in the first place.
Thanks for watching!
Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Mistel - Wot? Another one?
Some more work on the Pulse Jets for the Ef-126 for the Mistel. I got the base colours down a few days ago and decided to add more metallics and heat staining. I managed to screw up by adding too much Chrome at one point so darkened down again using Mission Models Transparent Medium with a drop of black to give dark tint. Then I used the Transparent Medium again but tinted with Orange and Blue for the heat staining.
Revised base colours. The mix was 40 Black 60 Cold Rolled Steel then eyeballed amounts of Chrome in the mix. Got it too light and recovered as described above.
Tubes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
With some Orange added as the first stage of staining.
Tubes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
The some Blue
Tubes by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
That's it. Hope you like it.
Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in 1:32 scale - Siemens-Schuckert D.III
The pre-rigging was first added for the cross bracing, flying and landing wires. Mono-filament 0.12 mm diameter and 0.5 mm diameter tube. 'Gaspatch' metal 1?48th scale turnbuckles and anchors.
Underside of the upper wing, top surface of the lower wings, engine cowl and the tension frame for the cross bracing wires of the rear cabane struts.
Then the upper wing was fitted - always a tricky time of the build.
Then next step is to fit the rudder and elevator then complete the full rigging,
Fvdm reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!
I was home for a few days and a few more days of modeling. Step #19 has you put the front engine halves E7 & E12 together, along with exhaust backings E5 & E6 and Step #20 has part D2 inserted at the top of the front intake.
Since I’m using the Barracuda resin replacement set (BR 32334) instead, these exact steps are eliminated. The first task is to carefully cut off the large casting block at the front of the one-piece nose, which like most resin blocks, is tricky to do cleanly when they are so large. It turns out that I have two of these noses, because I purchased one of the first sets when they came out a few years ago on the right, which was replaced later by Barracuda with the one on the left I’m using. Apparently the first ones were flawed somehow, but for the life of me I can’t tell the difference between the two, so maybe I didn’t get a flawed one after all? No matter, cutting the block off with a large razor saw did the trick, with detailed instructions supplied by Barracuda that can be found on-line here:
Barracuda Instructions in PDF
The kit parts have lots of panel line and rivet detail, but they are rough, so filling the top seam and sanding everything down smoothly won’t be easy if you use them.
While the quality of the resin is excellent as usual from Barracuda, I was surprised to find that the front did not fit the spinner very well, leaving gaps on the sides and top, while the bottom fit was flush.
Getting the parts to fit is easy with a little sanding, but you lose a lot of the detail that must be replaced.
Later, I will be installing the CMK Resin Exhausts that are an upgrade to the kit and recommended in the kit instructions in Step 46 on Page 11. I also highly recommend them, because the detail is amazing as you will see much later in this build. In any case, I will need the resin exhaust backings to replace the kit parts E5 & E6 fairly soon.
Like most resin replacements, the Barracuda nose piece utilizes the kit parts for the panel line and rivet detail when it was cast, but the detail is much weaker than the kit parts and, in some cases, you can barely see it at all, even with a dark wash. Soooo, like the rest of the fuselage, I re-scribed every panel line and re-punched every rivet, which took me about 12 hours in total! Yes, I can be a bit obsessed, but that’s nothing new. Here are the results that I’m glad is over with…..
You may notice that some of the rivets are a little off alignment, but that’s because the kit part detail is a little off where they came from, which I used as a guide to replace the ones that were faint or missing.
The fit to the fuselage wasn’t quite plug and play, but after some careful trimming, sanding and even immersing the part in hot water to widen it slightly, the fit is generally excellent. After gluing these parts together, I will sand everything smooth to eliminate any abrupt steps in the fit. Now I know that some of you might be thinking that all this rivet detail is overkill, but after paint and weathering, it will become much more subtle, but still very much there in close-up pics which I always like to do.
I was initially a little bugged that the horizontal panel line at the top of the exhaust stack didn’t align with the fuselage panel line behind it, but after checking references, it’s not supposed to! Whew!
Here’s a pic of the main differences between the kit parts and the Barracuda replacement. The front of the kit fuselage nose isn’t tapered very much and the spinner is too big, as is the mouth of the intake. The Barracuda part looks so much better- and all the internal detail is excellent as well.
The “British Brute” as Peter Castle called it, is starting to look the part!
Thanks for your continued interest in this very slow project. As mentioned before I only model every few weeks or so and like most of us, I feel so lucky to have this stay-at-home hobby to help me weather this brutal pandemic that has been so hard on so many. I am truly one of the lucky ones.
Fvdm reacted to Dpgsbody55 in P-47 D Thunderbolt, by Trumpeter
Work continues, after a lot of humming and humphing as to how to do the gun bays. In my eagerness when I bought this kit many years back, I rushed out and bought and bought the full Big Ed package of Eduard upgrades. At the time, I had no time for modelling thanks to work commitments, but I wanted to eventually build the biggest and bestest P-47 Razorback I could.
I've since come to realise that I have neither the talent, the tools or the eyesight to mess about with all this, and I'm not much of a fan of modelling guns anyway. Plus I'd already sprayed the insides of the wings, again in my eagerness, which would need re-doing . There's a lot of bending in this, and as I don't have the tools to do so, this is now consigned to my spares box, which means I stand a chance of finishing this kit this year. I've walked away from this build twice, but I want to finish it now. Maybe I will be able to use some of this when Tamiya release their 1/32 P-47???????
So here we have all the wing bits, air brushed and ready to go together, along with the flaps ailerons and tail planes. If I'd used the photo etch, I would have needed to remove the ribs in the gun bay you can see in each wing top, the air brush again. And that's just for starters.
I assembled the guns and started painting them. Here we have a veritable forest of guns.
The gun barrel ports in the wing leading edge are a separate piece, and I decided to glue these into each lower wing to help with positioning of the guns.
After these had dried, the wing tops were glued into place, but had to be slid into place around the gun barrel ports, which was a little fiddly as there's a locating lip around the entire edge, and a locating pin adjacent on the wing.
After they had dried, I cleaned up each wing, checked the joint to the fuselage and glued them into place. The wing joint is very good, and the stub wing spars in the fuselage means setting correct dihedral is no bother at all. Well done, Trumpeter.
I put this aside to dry for a while, then set about attaching the tail planes. Trumpeter provide an elevator link rod to each elevators. This goes into a bracket on the fuselage, but they don't line up. One side is worse than the other, and this interferes with attaching the tail planes, as they won't stay in place.
So I cut them off and drilled new holes for a single elevator link rod and cut a length of 1.00mm stock rod, glued it into one side, then glued that side tail plane into place, then glued the other side on, as well as gluing the link into the elevator. Now I have elevators that work together, as they're supposed to. Here it is in test fit.
So now we have a model that looks like a plane, which is always a great stage to get to. The dihedral of the tail planes was set using ordinary sticky tape, and this is still in place as it dries. Here's a couple of shots showing where the build is now, with a 1ft ruler along side to give an idea of size. She's a biggie!!
I've set the propeller in place temporarily so you can see the full length. I've also glued in the ailerons and flaps into their final positions. That wasn't quite as straight forward as you'd think. There's a lot more work to do before I get to the painting stage, and I'm still debating about further work on the guns. The ribs in the gun bay would appear to preclude any further work, and the bullet belts kit provides are made from vinyl and look like a nightmare to paint and get into place without ruining that paint job. For me, this build was always about the cockpit and engine/turbo detail, and that's what I've concentrated on. I think it will still be an impressive kit without the guns being detailed.
So it's on with cleaning and filling, then the details needed to get it to the paint stage. More soon, I hope.
Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G-14 Hartmann Double Chevron
Thanks guys! I think my painting woes are behind me on this one. The decals have been applied. I've tried to avoid the Hasegawa decals as much as I can since they are a bit thickish. Luckily, I have lots spares from the multiple Revell 109G-6 and G-10 kits that I've built and also some Eaglecals as well.
After the decals, the model is given another light gloss coat and then a pastel wash using a brown color.
Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in 1:32 scale - Siemens-Schuckert D.III
I don't think I've spent as much time cutting and applying decals to any model, as I have on this one.
The upper wing/ailerons are 45 degree 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32019 underside, ATT32018 top surface).
The lower wings/ailerons and elevator are standard 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32075 underside, ATT32013 top surface).
All rib and edging tapes were cut from 'Aviattic' ATT32073.
National markings and pilots personal markings were from the ‘Pheon’ (32023) Siemens Schuckert D.III decal sheet.
I had the problem of repairing the model after I dropped it during final preparation for applying the decals.
I managed to catch it between my legs, but in the process clamped the wing tips which transformed the D.III into more of a Vought Corsair!!
I had to break off the upturned lower wings, clean up, re-pack, re-drill and re-pin then reassemble.
All in all it didn't turn out too bad.
The surfaces are gloss sealed so as not to damage the applied decals. The final finish and weathering will be done later in the build.
Fvdm reacted to Nic C.D. in EAV-8B Harrier II Plus
It's been a few months, but finally there's some progress. Not a lot, but slowly, I'm getting there.
This is the forward part of the engine painted. Part of the details is on top of the engine, while another part is on the inside of the wing.
I also added a Master angle-of-attack probe to the forward part of the fuselage and made the reinforcements around the FLIR housing. By adding the seat and the canopy to the cockpit, a lot of detail will be hidden, so I'm thinking of scratching a crane next to the jet, with the seat attached to it; a bit like this:
I also started detailing the nose landing gear. The first thing I did was cutting it in two horizontally, so to get it at an angle, making the kit a little more dynamic. I need to add a lot of detail still, though.
So, the next step is to close up the fuselage, after which painting isn't too far along. And to get a bit of confidence, I did a quick build of an AMX to feel different shades of grey working...
So, I'm getting there. I hope to post more progress soon.
Fvdm reacted to kkarlsen in De Havilland DH 89 Dragon Rapide (OY-DIN) Lukgraph
Back to the matter at hand...
Inside about done...
Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in 1:32 scale - Siemens-Schuckert D.III
Aaaah those louvres:
Point mark a row of hole centres across the pre-moulded louvres.
Use the holes centres as a guide and drill a row of holes of 0.6 mm diameter through the marked louvre.
Carefully cut through the walls of the drilled holes, using a seam scraper or straight edged scalpel blade.
Carefully cut or scrape along the edges of the slit to open out the cooling slot.
From inside the panel, use a curved scalpel blade, scrape away the rear of the cooling slot to reduce its thickness to make it more realistic.
Carry out this procedure to create then ten open louvres.
If necessary, apply liquid cent around the edges of the created slot, to blend any minor surface imperfections.
Fvdm reacted to Mark Jackson in 1/32 Trumpeter F-14A Tomcat
For anyone who has not had the pleasure?? to work on a big Trumpeter kit - you should try it if only once. The title of that brilliant western "The Good, the bad and the ugly" sums up this F-14A kit, and it can also be applied to their A-7E kit. The photo below kind of illustrates the amount of extra work involved in just getting everything to fit and stay in place:
The strange thing is..... I'm enjoying it.
The two small compartments for the chaff/flare boxes proved to be tricky and some time was required test fitting the top and bottom fuselage parts. Lots of sanding and cutting finally allowed two seemingly innocuous recesses to fit with the fuselage halves being able to close.
The main wheel wells required some surgery and strengthening to locate correctly inside the lower fuselage.
Keep sniffing that glue!
Fvdm reacted to airscale in 1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'
..thanks for the vote of confidence on the RLM66 colour - I will stick with this one
Some Fw190 bobbins for your entertainment..
..I painted the layers of PE for the instrument panel – there is a backplate (not shown), a layer with just the bezel surrounds and the blanked instrument in black, and the detail layer in RLM66..
The lower panel has some colour coding (thanks Roger) for the instruments that are on their way and should be here next week..
..also made the ‘Ausgleichsgefäss’ that sits under the main panel from many punched discs (the 3D print didn’t really work..)
..and the artificial horizon, now just awaiting instruments & placard decals…
..while waiting I have been readying all the PE I will need for the gear wells and a load of other bits – using lots of pictures like this to map it all out..
Notice the dimples and the raised ribbed panel next to them..
..after many hours of work, here you can see the mainspar, wheelwell roof and some of the wing ribs printed out, stuck to litho and being test fitted..
..I wanted to start with the roof as these won’t be PE anyway, the drawings are just to give me working templates..
..here printed, stuck to a sheet of Perspex and all the centres of all the dimples being marked..
..and my first ever use of my new mini Proxxon milling machine to machine the depressions..
..added the sidewalls and some filler to fair them in as the pressing is curved at the sides and primed to make sure all was well..
..starting to work annealed litho into the female mould… the completed one you can see at the front is the first version I did in a video episode on my Patreon build after which I realised I had made the depressions too big (& therefore the dimples..)
..re-adding a template so I can see the panel outline and start cutting it to shape..
..and the completed parts…
..the ribbed panel was approached in a similar way, just reversed so instead of dimples it makes raised strengthening ribs..
..sticking templates down to mark out where the ribs go..
..ribs added and a wash of thin CA..
..cleaned up, rounded edges and primed..
..litho being worked into shape..
..and the finished panels with the rivets etc added..
..a day’s work…
..and checking for fit..
..happy with how they turned out, and don’t forget, if you want to see how parts like this are made and join me in the ups and downs of this build, please join my Patreon
Fvdm reacted to Brett M in 1/32 Trumpeter SBD-5 Dauntless in New Zealand markings w/ full Archer rivet replacement - DONE
Definitely dragging on this one, but now that it's REALLY getting hot out (95+), more inside time.
Ready to close the fuselage at this point, not much else I can see to do for the interior. I skipped all of the parts behind the rear bulkhead, as they won't be seen. Rebuilt the throttle, which will barely be visible. Added Airscale gauges to rear cockpit, again barely visible. In fact, most everything for the backseater gets hidden by the turret. Oh well, at least I know it's there!
Starting work on the engine and support frame. Again, skipping parts that won't be visible with no panels open. More to come on that.
Thanks for looking.
Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45
Conducted a few tests today. First was figuring out if the Mr Hobby lacquer colors that I purchased for the Shiden Kai would allow hairspray chipping. On my paint mule, I sprayed a base coat of Tamiya AS-12 Silver. Over the tail, put on a layer of MIG Scratches Effects liquid and forward of that I sprayed MIG Heavy Chipping Effects. Once those dried, I sprayed the tail with the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Cockpit color and then the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Dark Green forward of that. Just to compare the different greens that I had on hand, I also sprayed Mr Hobby Aqueous H-59 IJN Gloss Green and Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green.
Using a stiff paint brush dipped in water, I was able to created chips on the Mr Hobby lacquer colors fairly easily. But I didn't quite like the way the Mr Hobby Dark Green sprayed. For one, it was dead flat, which I'd prefer not to deal with over the whole aircraft. Someone also question the accuracy of this particular color. I'm no expert and doing some internet research and finding some articles on Shiden Kai colors by Nick Millman didn't clarify matters conclusively. So... I'm decided on which green I'll be using to paint the exterior of the aircraft. But at least I can move forward on the painting of the cockpit.
I conducted another test with the Galaxy Tools riveter. Compared it with the RB Productions Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini, all of the tools set at 0.75mm spacing.
Ignoring the crookedness of the lines, all of the rivets looked about the same, which is a good thing. From top to bottom are: Galaxy Standard, Galaxy Mini, Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini. I also confirmed that the Galaxy Standard and Mini wheels in the 0.75 spacing are exact matches. I can re-trace the rivet line I made with the Galaxy Mini with the Galaxy Standard and riveter will put the points exactly in the rivet holes along the entire length of the line. The Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini aren't exact matches. By carefully placing a point on the Rivet-R wheel into the hole made by the Rivet-R Mini and running it along the rivet line, you are making new holes by the time you get to the halfway point. Seems like a minor point but having exact matches eliminates at least one of the headaches I've been experiencing when riveting.
Fvdm reacted to daveculp in Yet Another OV-10A
I've started work on an OV-10A representing those based at Sembach Air Base, Germany in the 1980's (and at Patrick AFB, and maybe Osan (?)). These airplanes had previously been based in Thailand during the war in SEA, so the airplane will have a lot in common with my previous Pave Nail OV-10A project. I'll skip some things that were already covered in that build topic. As with the Pave Nail project I decided to build it with the cargo door open. External load will be one 230 gallon centerline fuel tank, two LAU-68 rocket pods w/ rockets, two B37K bomb racks with BDU-33 practice bombs and two guns in the right sponson only. This airplane will also be equipped with the ALR-46 RHAW gear.
First some of the 3D printed parts:
Column one shows the radio rack, O2 bottles, and hydraulic pump.
Column two shows the inlet covers, B37K racks, (?) antennas for the right boom (I think ILS?).
Column three shows the ALR-46 gear, gear handles, and emergency jettison button.
The bomb racks have been a real bear to print, in fact after I took the above photo I gave up on printing the racks with sway braces attached, and instead have printed bombs with the sway braces built in. These then fit into simple notches in the racks.
This gives the braces enough support to print properly. I also made the airplane sway braces part of the rack, mainly because the carpet monster ate one of them, but also so they would sit properly on the flat top of the rack. The BDU-33 should be slightly bluer, oh well.
As mentioned in the Pave Nail build the USAF OV-10A did not have a bulkhead behind the aft seat, and the aft cockpit itself is modified to remove the side consoles. The Eduard photoetch set has the instructions and replacement parts for this modification. In addition I added a rear wall to the cockpit floor where it meets the cargo bay floor, leaving small opening for wiring. I'm using the AMS Resin seats, so the alignment bit on the floor needs to be cut off.
The seats will look sharp. I'm also using the AMS Resin 230 gallon tank, here shown with one of the Euro One colors applied.
The cargo bay is shown here partly assembled. I'm using yellow zinc chromate color. I used green zinc chromate on the Pave Nail build. The hydraulic pump is painted and installed. 5 mm is cut off the rear end of the ceiling to make room for the pump. The floor is plywood color with two painted on aluminum slide strips running lengthwise and yellow zinc color on the edges. The ceiling has the O2 bottles painted and installed. I used chrome tape to make the bottle straps. Radio rack is shown in position - the radios will be added soon. The cargo bay side walls are made from thin styrene sheet.
Closing up the fuselage halves is a bit tricky without the bulkhead since this means the ceiling doesn't have a solid connection at the front - just a butt joint on the sides.
Fvdm reacted to Alex in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!
I've come to believe that this is actually the right time to use panel line wash - before painting. Putting it under the final color coat provides a much more subtle effect, and the strength of the effect can be adjusted based on how much paint you apply over it.
Fvdm got a reaction from Sakai in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!
Using the wash is a very good tip. But what to do before painting? Do you clear the model with a cottonbud to clear everything or do you spray over the wash?
Fvdm reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". January 14/21 New eBook!
I usually use a scriber down the major panel lines to clean the wash out, but leave the rest as is. It's thin enough, that paint build-up is minimal. Depending on the cover color, the dark accents often show through, much like pre-shading.
Example on my A-10C. First coat of paint with no subsequent dark wash.
Fvdm reacted to Alex in A6M2b Zero - Attack on Pearl Harbor - 1/32 Tamiya
This is the cockpit "module", almost completely assembled and ready to install into the fuselage. The one small holdup is the one fit that I didn't pre-check three times, and a word to the wise if you are planning on building this kit. The interface between the tabs on the top of the ammo magazine and the recesses on the bottoms of the MGs is too tight, and does not let the MGs sit level. Since these protrude out of the cowl their alignment is obviously critical. This would have been easier to solve if I had known about it before getting to this stage. Going to fix it tomorrow when I'm fresh (another lesson I've learned).
Fvdm got a reaction from Stokey Pete in My first double build - Calling them DONE - Pic’s in RFI
They look fantastic! Awesome paintjob.