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  1. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45   
    Conducted a few tests today.  First was figuring out if the Mr Hobby lacquer colors that I purchased for the Shiden Kai would allow hairspray chipping.  On my paint mule, I sprayed a base coat of Tamiya AS-12 Silver.  Over the tail, put on a layer of MIG Scratches Effects liquid and forward of that I sprayed MIG Heavy Chipping Effects.  Once those dried, I sprayed the tail with the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Cockpit color and then the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Dark Green forward of that.  Just to compare the different greens that I had on hand, I also sprayed Mr Hobby Aqueous H-59 IJN Gloss Green and Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green.

    Using a stiff paint brush dipped in water, I was able to created chips on the Mr Hobby lacquer colors fairly easily.  But I didn't quite like the way the Mr Hobby Dark Green sprayed.  For one, it was dead flat, which I'd prefer not to deal with over the whole aircraft.  Someone also question the accuracy of this particular color.  I'm no expert and doing some internet research and finding some articles on Shiden Kai colors by Nick Millman didn't clarify matters conclusively.  So... I'm decided on which green I'll be using to paint the exterior of the aircraft.  But at least I can move forward on the painting of the cockpit.

    I conducted another test with the Galaxy Tools riveter.  Compared it with the RB Productions Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini, all of the tools set at 0.75mm spacing.

    Ignoring the crookedness of the lines, all of the rivets looked about the same, which is a good thing.  From top to bottom are: Galaxy Standard, Galaxy Mini, Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini. I also confirmed that the Galaxy Standard and Mini wheels in the 0.75 spacing are exact matches.  I can re-trace the rivet line I made with the  Galaxy Mini with the Galaxy Standard and riveter will put the points exactly in the rivet holes along the entire length of the line.  The Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini aren't exact matches.  By carefully placing a point on the Rivet-R wheel into the hole made by the Rivet-R Mini and running it along the rivet line, you are making new holes by the time you get to the halfway point.  Seems like a minor point but having exact matches eliminates at least one of the headaches I've been experiencing when riveting.

  2. Like
    Fvdm reacted to daveculp in Yet Another OV-10A   
    I've started work on an OV-10A representing those based at Sembach Air Base, Germany in the 1980's (and at Patrick AFB, and maybe Osan (?)).  These airplanes had previously been based in Thailand during the war in SEA, so the airplane will have a lot in common with my previous Pave Nail OV-10A project.  I'll skip some things that were already covered in that build topic.  As with the Pave Nail project I decided to build it with the cargo door open.  External load will be one 230 gallon centerline fuel tank, two LAU-68 rocket pods w/ rockets, two B37K bomb racks with BDU-33 practice bombs and two guns in the right sponson only.  This airplane will also be equipped with the ALR-46 RHAW gear.
    First some of the 3D printed parts:

    Column one shows the radio rack, O2 bottles, and hydraulic pump.
    Column two shows the inlet covers, B37K racks, (?) antennas for the right boom (I think ILS?).
    Column three shows the ALR-46 gear, gear handles, and emergency jettison button.
    The bomb racks have been a real bear to print, in fact after I took the above photo I gave up on printing the racks with sway braces attached, and instead have printed bombs with the sway braces built in.  These then fit into simple notches in the racks.

    This gives the braces enough support to print properly.  I also made the airplane sway braces part of the rack, mainly because the carpet monster ate one of them, but also so they would sit properly on the flat top of the rack.  The BDU-33 should be slightly bluer, oh well.
    As mentioned in the Pave Nail build the USAF OV-10A did not have a bulkhead behind the aft seat, and the aft cockpit itself is modified to remove the side consoles.  The Eduard photoetch set has the instructions and replacement parts for this modification.  In addition I added a rear wall to the cockpit floor where it meets the cargo bay floor, leaving small opening for wiring.  I'm using the AMS Resin seats, so the alignment bit on the floor needs to be cut off.

    The seats will look sharp.  I'm also using the AMS Resin 230 gallon tank, here shown with one of the Euro One colors applied.

    The cargo bay is shown here partly assembled.  I'm using yellow zinc chromate color.  I used green zinc chromate on the Pave Nail build.  The hydraulic pump is painted and installed.  5 mm is cut off the rear end of the ceiling to make room for the pump.  The floor is plywood color with two painted on aluminum slide strips running lengthwise and yellow zinc color on the edges.  The ceiling has the O2 bottles painted and installed.  I used chrome tape to make the bottle straps.  Radio rack is shown in position - the radios will be added soon.  The cargo bay side walls are made from thin styrene sheet.

    Closing up the fuselage halves is a bit tricky without the bulkhead since this means the ceiling doesn't have a solid connection at the front - just a butt joint on the sides.
  3. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Alex in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". July 21- Front Radiator Bits   
    I've come to believe that this is actually the right time to use panel line wash - before painting.  Putting it under the final color coat provides a much more subtle effect, and the strength of the effect can be adjusted based on how much paint you apply over it.
  4. Thanks
    Fvdm got a reaction from chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". July 21- Front Radiator Bits   
    Using the wash is a very good tip. But what to do before painting? Do you clear the model with a cottonbud to clear everything or do you spray over the wash? 
  5. Like
    Fvdm reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". July 21- Front Radiator Bits   
    I usually use a scriber down the major panel lines to clean the wash out, but leave the rest as is. It's thin enough, that paint build-up is minimal.  Depending on the cover color, the dark accents often show through, much like pre-shading.
    Example on my A-10C.  First coat of paint with no subsequent dark wash.


  6. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Alex in A6M2b Zero - Attack on Pearl Harbor - 1/32 Tamiya   
    This is the cockpit "module", almost completely assembled and ready to install into the fuselage.  The one small holdup is the one fit that I didn't pre-check three times, and a word to the wise if you are planning on building this kit.  The interface between the tabs on the top of the ammo magazine and the recesses on the bottoms of the MGs is too tight, and does not let the MGs sit level.  Since these protrude out of the cowl their alignment is obviously critical.  This would have been easier to solve if I had known about it before getting to this stage.  Going to fix it tomorrow when I'm fresh (another lesson I've learned).




  7. Thanks
    Fvdm got a reaction from Stokey Pete in My first double build - Calling them DONE - Pic’s in RFI   
    They look fantastic! Awesome paintjob.
  8. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G-14 Hartmann Double Chevron   
    Started making a little more progress on the G-14 since my other builds are waiting for items stuck in the postal system.
    The resin exhaust pipes have been painted.

  9. Like
    Fvdm reacted to John1 in A Separate Little War - Strike Wing Mosquito FB.VI   
    Thanks very much guys.   No building today but just for S&G's I dry-fitted one of the nacelles to the wing.   Perfect fit, no need for any putty and if I was inclined, I could probably skip gluing it and it would lock firmly in place.   Wheelwells are an area that most kit makers skimp on.   To their credit, Tamiya did a fantastic job.   Between the PE ribs and the smaller detail parts, they are pretty much 75% of the real thing, which says a great deal about the quality of this kit.  Many other manufacturers give you a rectangular box with nothing but a few semi-defined shapes molded in place.  I've still got some additional bits to add but I really like they way they look.   If I get close enough, I think I can catch a wiff of avgas and motor oil!  
    Notice how the gear door retraction springs anchor to the rear wing spar.   The gap aft of the spar is per the real thing.  
    And a view of the upper surface.  Just note - this is the un-detailed engine that will have the cowling panels glued in place. The other engine has the additional parts added to it.   I'm glad I opted to leave one engine exposed, it would be a shame to cover all this great detail.
    That's it for tonight, thanks for looking! 
  10. Like
    Fvdm reacted to leoasman in HB B-24D   
    I see what you mean. It probably appears that way because the rudders are incorrectly molded identical so they have the trim tab “arm” on the same side and all the little details as well.  Very confusing during assembly. Plus I don’t think I laid them out in the right orientation with the horizontal stab for the pic...
  11. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from leoasman in HB B-24D   
    Very nice build and a joy to follow. When i look at the pictures off the tails one question comes to mind.
    Are the decals in the right place? When i look at the rudders it seems like the left tail is upside down. The right tail has the decals above the rounded edge of the rudder and the left tail has the decals at the rounded part of the rudder. I hope that you see what I mean.
  12. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Stokey Pete in My first double build - Calling them DONE - Pic’s in RFI   
    I’m declaring myself as happy with the paintwork as I can be. Any more Airbrush touching up and I’d be masking the touched up areas to touch up others, going round in circles. I’m dealing with the tiny touch ups by brush as I spot them. So I hit it with a gloss coat and had a go at the decals bit.
    My only complaint is that the black on the wing decals doesn’t match the black that I used to base coat. I guess that was too much to hope
    for, and that it’ll not be too noticeable under another gloss coat, weathering layer, and final flat finish.
    So here’s where I’m at.
  13. Like
    Fvdm reacted to spyrosjzmichos in Tamiya 1/32 JASDF F-4EJ Black Panthers   
    Hello everyone!
    First off, a very big thank you to Ben Schumacher aka Starfighter for designing and 3D printing the tail fin sensors and to Colin Robinson aka crobinsonh for providing the extremely rare Zotz decals F-4EJ resin conversion parts.
    It's people like you that make me appreciate this hobby even more! 
    I used a razor saw to cut off the kit's plastic sections and superglued the conversion parts in place.
    The tail fin sensors required a bit of blending and for this I used Milliput epoxy. 




    It has been mentioned several times before but I've also had similar issues with the transparencies.
    Because of the way Tamiya has moulded the sprue gates, the clear canopies end up having fracture marks on one side.
    I filled in those sections with superglue and sanded everything smooth till clarity was restored.
    The marks that have remained will be covered with thin strips of masking paper to simulate the canopy insulation strips.


    I also added more detail on the weapons pylons in the form of rivets and wiring.

    This concludes the construction stage and I can finally move on to painting! 
    A few more pics of the main airframe and subassemblies.  






  14. Like
    Fvdm reacted to JayW in 1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification   
    The Bendix-Scintilla DF18LN magneto, used on the Corsair (there also is a Bosch magneto that seems less common) is a complicated little bugger.  And it is hard to find good pictures or drawings.  I did find this though:

    This comes from a R-2800 "operators Manual" I found at Aircorps Library.  This provided alot of good scaling at least for the side view.  I also found a magneto on E-bay with some good photos like this:
    This plus other photos of R-2800's gave me enough to go on.  So a ten-times size (10/18 to be sure) layout, and just short of a hundred little plastic parts later I got this:

    Mounted on the engine, and wired up:


    I am so glad to be done with that infernal .025 gold painted solder. 
    Next is the propeller governor.  I have found some material on Aircorps Library on this too, but there will still be guesswork.  After it is installed, I really have to decide what to do next.  There are many options, including the back sections of the engine - something I have never done before, and something that requires guesswork as well.
    Stay tuned!
  15. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Daniel Leduc in Iranian F-4D 3-6712, 71st TFS, Hor September 1980   
    Thanks to members help, I was able to tone down my flat finish by spraying TS-80 Tamiya Flat clear coat 
    and planning to add a little sheene with an old T-shirt and wool......

    I know it's kind of hard to see the difference but trust me, it's way better than it was....
    Was done with the paint, and time for the metal part.... and tape......lol.



    Running out of Model Master Magnesium metalizer, had to improvised with other finish...

    And it end up very close.... 



    Getting closer to the finish line for this one....Yeah.

    And few touch-up on accessories.

    Will try to finnish it by next week and show it in RFI soon.....
    Hope you still like it and have fun..
  16. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Iain in 1:32 Hawker Siddeley Andover E.Mk 3 - 3D Print   
    Oh, go on then, Gold Star for Derek!
    Yes - with my fresh supply of 1.5mm clear HIPS sheet I thought I'd take a break from sanding/cutting/reinforcing big chunks of ABS and have a play with a glazing - to see if this particular cunning plan was going to work.
    I'll let you guys be the judge by the end of this post.
    The quality of clear parts can make, or break, a model and so I usually spend a lot of time on a project trying to get these as good as I can get them.
    I try to use the most suitable material for any given purpose. The fuselage windows I'm going to do as a single strip each side - so wanted a clear, non-yellowing, plastic that would easily conform to the single curve of the fuselage - and gould be glued to the ABS fuselage prints with solvent. So - 0.25mm UV Stabilised PETG sheet will be used.
    For the cockpit windows I wanted something absolutely flat and distortion free - and something I could use wet and dry followed by polishing with Novus Plastic Polish. PETG doesn't like sanding/polishing at all - but HIPS does - and at 1.5 mm thick substantial enough for shaping and to hold it's flat shape on fitment.
    Add to that the trick of 'edging' the clear part with a permanent marker that I've been using for years to make neat edges, as well as create the impression of thinner 'glass', I thought I might have the tools to make a go of these.
    Tonight I cut the first window:

    An oversize section was laid over the window aperture and the edges marked on the surface with a new scalpel blade.
    The section was then trimmed back using Tamiya side-cutters to within about 1mm - then the edges taken back with the T-Bar sander - bit by bit, with lots of trial and error - as well as corner rounding, until it fitted absobl**dy perfectly - even if I do say so myself!
    Here it is just press fitted in position - took about an hour - but hopefully looks OK!






    Final bonding will be with a little solvent touched into the corners and into the joint - followed by a polish.
    So, I think there's another challenge sorted, perhaps...
  17. Like
    Fvdm reacted to JayW in 1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification   
    I have progress to show you, actually quite a bit.  The spark plug wire harness is finished with all 36 wires routed, painted, ready to go.  With that, the forward row inter ear deflectors were installed.  And, this was the time when the forward and back row cylinders and crank case halves were bonded together, and the front reduction gear housing was bonded in place as well.  I managed to make every mistake in the book along the way, perhaps the worst of which was to paint a 5 foot length of .025 inch silver solder (for the spark plug wires) primer plus gold before hand.  I thought I'd be sly and pre-paint so I would not have to reach into inaccessible places to paint wires after installation.  Well - as I should have known, the paint flaked off after making bends and curves, or sliding on clamps.  So not only did it make a mess of flakes, but I had to go in and paint inside those inaccessible places anyway.  In the process, I managed to break off a cylinder, requiring a delicate re-attachment in place with lots of stuff already attached to said cylinder.  While joining the two cylinder rows, I accidentally allowed a free end of spark plug wire from the back row to get into the joint.  I discovered this after the epoxy was already dry (or nearly), so I had to extricate the solder wire, breaking the wire about mid-length, and applying about a half hour of careful pressure to get the two crank case halves to seat properly.  They are almost seated; not quite.  That spark plug wire repair was also exceedingly delicate.  There were other mis-steps and gaffs I will not bore you with - but suffice it to say that prior to this work, I was hand wringing about it, and was not sure why.  Now I know.
    So here is the result of my pressure packed work:

    Note the two unattached wires for the magneto. 
    A bottom view showing the scavenge oil stuff:
    A front view showing every one of those 36 wires:

    Honestly, I do not know how people do this in smaller scales.  Notably absent in that photo is the P & W emblem - Fundekal has STILL not replenished their supply of decals. 
    A rear view, showing the 18 exhaust manifold points that I will tackle one day:
    Pretty busy engine.  Next on the agenda are the magneto, and the prop governor - both mounting onto the top of the reduction gear casing:
    Next post those primed flats will have components on them.  Til then stay safe and healthy.  
  18. Like
    Fvdm reacted to kkarlsen in De Havilland DH 89 Dragon Rapide (OY-DIN) Lukgraph   
    Phew, that was a tough one...
    Been working on the passenger seats trying to get them to look like the real seats of a DH.89




    And no, I haven't been painting the 'sunrise' pattern on the seats...

    After much 'brooding' I came up with the solution of printing the pattern and seam's on clear decal paper.
    There's even is a little 'wrinkle' here and there. All in all I'm quite pleased with the result 
  19. Like
    Fvdm reacted to olgerd83 in Roden 1/32 Fokker Dr.I 477/17   
    If someone is interested how I painted streaky camouflage - I made a video 
    Thanks for watching
  20. Like
    Fvdm reacted to REJ in 1/18th Merit SBD-2 "2106" at Midway   
    I bought this monster right after it first became available and shelved it for some time. Too many things on the work bench ahead of it. Now it's time to get busy.
    First, a short history. 2106 is an SBD-2 Dauntless that joined the Navy prior to Pearl Harbor assigned to the "Lex" as part of the Atlantic Fleet. 2106 participated in war games conducted in the US gulf coast area and flew mostly from hasty dirt airfields. During this time, 2106 ingested a lot of dirt and dust through the intake of the radial engine, destroying the rings on several cylinders. Shortly after the war games, the "Lex" was reassigned to the Pacific Fleet and 2106 was dropped off at Ford Island for engine replacement. The "Lex" left for a delivery cruise taking aircraft to other islands and 2106 stayed at Pearl. 2106 survived the attack on Dec 7th and, upon the return of the "Lex", rejoined her on-board squadron. 2106 was then a part, six months later, of the Midway campaign. During it's second attack run, 2106 was heavily damaged, but made a one-wheeled crash landing on Midway and was later recovered. She then went back to the factory and was repaired, but instead of rejoining the fleet (newer SBD-3/4s were coming out by then), 2106 was sent to Michigan to join the training of new Navy pilots learning to land and take off from small aircraft carriers in Lake Michigan. 2106 was spun into the water and sank to the bottom of the lake. There she laid until discovered in the '90's and raised for salvage and preservation. 2106 is now on display at the Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola, FL.
    This thing is going beyond extra large!

    The cockpit tub is a large sub-assembly with a lot of detail hidden from view most of the time. There is a section behind the firewall and ahead of the dash bulkhead where the oil tank, engine mounts, and intake are hidden. To make an access door or panel will, in my opinion, weaken the forward fuselage joints and make them took fragile. So I'm going to cover them and leave the details inside.

    I've added so more details the are easy to see, but were omitted from the kit. Seat belts, switches, and plumbing have been put the best that I can.

    The engine has received a wiring harness and some other enhancements...not many though.

    The decals are crap. I nearly destroyed one small decal in a test and discovered they are paper thin and don't adhere to much. So I'll paint most all the markings instead. This is the rudder with red/white strips added. I still have to thinly coat it with light sea grey leaving the strips to show through some. Such was the hasty attempt to change camouflage.

    I have added metal landing gear from Scale Conversions for their strength.

  21. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Pete Fleischmann in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35   
    Pressing on!
    having good luck so far. I measure each run with the dividers, then transfer that measurement to the decal. I trim the decals pretty tight. Solvaset has all but eliminated the carrier film. I avoid the temptation to do one long continuous run- it is much easier to keep every rivet line straight if you butt shorter lengths.
  22. Like
    Fvdm reacted to monthebiff in 1/12 Tamiya Honda RC213V Casey Stoner test Motegi 2015   
    Been working on the engine, I built the basic block up and painted it Mr Surfacer 1500 Black followed bt variuos Vallejo Metal colour shades.


    Next up was to build the clutch from the Top Studio set, 24 parts in total with only the clutch cover plate being painted and glued, a little tricky to build but looks absolutely fantastic once together.

    And assembled


    Got to say its certainly worth the effort to assemble and really is a vast improvement on the kit part.
    Regards. Andy
  23. Like
    Fvdm reacted to ericg in Aerotech Gloster IV FINISHED   
    Thanks guys.
    Some more work. I have painted the model now. I used Alclad pale burnt metal for the gold, and a significantly lightened mix of Gunze light blue. The cooling panels were painted with polished brass and the floats with a couple of different shades of Alclad Aluminium. Still a bit of work to do chasing around some areas of overspray, but fairly happy with how it is turning out.

  24. Like
    Fvdm reacted to chrish in CF 188 60 years of NORAD Completed   
    Thanks Dog!
    Calling it done. I dropped the ball near the finish line and buggered up a couple of the decals (entirely my fault) I also didn't realize there was an antenna (a kind of flat disc) behind the canopy I made a (crude) version of it by stacking white decal disc cut outs each smaller than the one below but the decal slipped later during handling and caused grief, paint damage etc... (again, my fault) 
    In any case, here's the finished product.

  25. Like
    Fvdm reacted to chrish in CF 188 60 years of NORAD Completed   
    Thanks for stopping by and having a look
    I've got some color on it as of yesterday and gloss varnish on today, the top blue is Vallejo "French Blue" the bottom is Vallejo Surface Primer and the white is Tamiya. The masks were supplied in the decal set. All colors are flat coats, buffed then gloss coated. Here's the before and after;

    allow a little drying time, maybe another gloss coat then those cool decals
    Thanks for looking
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