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  1. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Base layer of chipping has been established.  Not exactly the result I was envisioning but it will suffice.  Hairspray chipping can cause surface irregularities between the two layers.  I scrubbed the area with dry Micromesh and then sealed it with a coat of Aqua Gloss.

    After the clear had dried, I sprayed another coat of hairspray.  And then I pre-shaded the panel lines.

    To establish a bit of tonal variation, I used a piece of brillo pad and some splatter templates to create a random mottle all over the model.

    The bottom was painted with AK Real Colors Insignia White.  I've decided to reduce the pre-shade effect a little bit more than normal to establish the off-color of the white.  It's still there but it is VERY subtle and is hard to capture in photos.

  2. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from mpk in Hasegawa Mitsubishi Raiden   
    Nice build. I hope you recover quickly and no more painkillers are needed.
  3. Like
    Fvdm reacted to mozart in Gloster Gladiator.....finished :)   
    Well it will be interesting to see how this goes, but firstly a few reference pictures that I took in 2013 of Duxford's Gladiator, a truly beautiful beast:

  4. Like
    Fvdm reacted to shark64 in MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.   
    Wash in process. Darker in the back because of exhausts.

  5. Like
    Fvdm reacted to mozart in Focke-Wulf 44D "Stieglitz"   
    And suddenly it is just about finished!  I may do a little weathering to make it like a little more used, but it's substantially done!  Better pictures in the RFI asap once I've completed painting the figures:

    My first Silver Wings kit, but definitely not my last.  I'm planning a prototype Hurricane based on the PCM fabric-wing kit, but when my Gladiator arrives........
  6. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Mistel Combo   
    Hi Guys,
    I finished the model of the Mistel last night just a few minutes before I had to jump in the car and go to the model club without actually taking any photos, so the following were taken at the hall we use.  The Club is Wiltshire Scale Modeller's  Society and we are a very friendly bunch.
    Tea, coffee and real chocolate biscuits every meeting!
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    My attempt at a Mistel!  Should have some decent photos up tomorrow but this is your lot for now.
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Well, I tried!
    Bruce Crosby
  7. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Bruce_Crosby in Mistel Combo   
    Hi Guys,
    Some more work on the Mistel.
    Nose wheel:
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Bogie unit:
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    RATO unit with the start of a frame, the start of some markings, maybe the start of the end phase?
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Struts on the chute pack and a RATO in place:
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Adding the RATO units to the back end of the launch trolley.  Still missing one strut on the number 1 (Port outer) but you can see some of the fuel point markings.
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    Two from the top:
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    A bit hairy but you get the idea!
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    The outer RATO units toe-in.
    Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
    More soon
    Bruce Crosby
  8. Like
    Fvdm reacted to ericg in RAAF special occasion Mirage buggy FINISHED.   
    Onto the finish of this project. 
    It was recommended to me that a good addition to the basket on the rear of the trailer would be a set of chocks. My good mate Dave happened to have one of them and he willingly photographed and measured it up for me so that I could scratch build it.
    I carved one out of a chunk of resin, and made a copy of the master. I figured I might do a couple of extra copies for the RAAF models  that I already have in the cabinet.

    Suitably weathered

    ’thrown’ into the back of the tractor.

    I used strips of Tamiya tape that I primed and painted to depict the ratchet straps. A lot of time went into working out where each one went, given the limited reference photos available.

    I spent the morning patiently waiting for the postie to arrive, after Dave let me know that the decals were in the overnight post. Given the approaching weekend, and the fact that the Canberra show is only a week away with a busy week of my day job ahead of me, my heart sunk when the postie cruised on past my house without stopping, only to be filled with happiness when he miraculously did a U turn and come back, small envelope in hand.this was the moment I had been waiting for!
    The decals took a bit of tweaking size wise, but other than that, they came out great.


    Now the project was finished. I will take studio photos soon but in the meantime, here are some workbench pics. Many thanks to those that assisted with this project.



  9. Like
    Fvdm reacted to ericg in RAAF special occasion Mirage buggy FINISHED.   
    The trailer was next to be finished.
    I added some extra detail to it, which I was almost about to leave off. This particular trailer has a handbrake system fitted which is visible under the deck between the front and rear wheels in the picture of Sean posted earlier. There is a small hand brake lever under the front of the trailer, connected to two wires that run to disk brakes on the rear axle. If it hadn't been for Max's excellent photos, I would have had no idea how this was all supposed to look!


    I added a number plate which is also visible in the reference pic. I have a special no. picked out for it which will be placed there once I get the decals made up.

    This was a tough little bugger to make but certainly worth it in the end.

    The status as it sits now. I am waiting on the decals, and just need to do the straps and it will be done!
  10. Like
    Fvdm reacted to chrish in Academy Mh 60S   
    more pictures...just masking and painting, although masking took about three days, the painting took about 20 minutes!

    Here's where I am at the end of festivities today

  11. Like
    Fvdm reacted to RLWP in 24 Squadron DH2 1916   
    The kit design means I can fit the cabane struts firmly in place to the cowling, so that makes a good solid support for the wing:


    One of the most dispiriting things is trying to balance a top wing on the ends of twelve wobbly 'toothpicks'. 
  12. Like
    Fvdm reacted to composite guru in Hasegawa 1/16 Sopwith Camel   
    More progress.
    Not happy with the plastic prop in the kit I decided to make my own from walnut and beech veneer.
    Bonded the veneer together using PVA wood glue, clamped and waited 2 days to fully dry.
    Scaled a drawing from the internet of a standard British Wooden Propeller from that era to template from.
    I have profiled one side and it seems to have come out really nice. Well chuffed with the look and finish.
    Excuse the upside down photo. Not sure what’s happened there.
  13. Like
    Fvdm reacted to composite guru in Hasegawa 1/16 Sopwith Camel   
    Nearly finished. Just the prop to go. 
    I’m not liking the plastic version supplied with the kit so I’m going to make one from wood. 
    Intension is to make it the same way as the originals and stack layers of template cut veneer and sculpt the prop by hand. 
    Going to be interesting. 
  14. Like
    Fvdm reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    hello again
    so while I can't fit them yet, I wanted to get the flaps built up..
    I used the same principle as the ailerons in that an inner core with raised rivets was made and then skinned with panels with normal rivets - you can see the raised rivets on the trailing edge in this shot...

    ..the first thing was to get the drawings into the overall 'folded out' shape along with the rivet markings - the raised ones are in threes along the trailing edge. there are also cutouts & shapes along the leading edge which curves under the wing trailing edge..

    ..I always work in pairs if twothings need doing, so I don't do one and get bored doing the other, so bothe were made and folded..

    ..the drawings actually had me confused as they show the lines of lateral rivets in paired rows, but all the pics I have show just one row so that was what I went with - here are an upper & lower pair for the panels with recessed rivets - the bottom one has just been done, the top one already burnished out to get rid of the 'pillowing' effect of the rivetting process..

    ..the structures were strengthened with thick card and an inner core made up to define the profile and stop sagging..

    ..details added and taped up ready to paint YZC where needed..

    ..then the rivetted panels were added - here tape acts as a hinge at the top, and is masking where the impact cement goes at the bottom..

    ..after painting the details showed quite well - I also noticed the curved edge that goes under the wing is normally seen quite glossy, I guess it doesn't get as much exposure as the rest of the structure, so I polished this area..


    ..I also worked up and fettled the wing & fuselage so they fit and painted the recess YZC


    ..the aileron detail can still be seen..

    ..not at the right angle or fixed yet, but you get the idea..


    ..and that is the flaps nearly done - I will finish the fittings when I fit them ..
    ..I have the 3D printed wheels & hubs I designed from Tim Perry now, so they are next to take a look at
  15. Like
    Fvdm reacted to TomR in WNW Albatros D.V Otto Kissemberth   
    Working my way through the decals and it's really coming together now. Hoping to get the engine and guns mounted tomorrow. First time building an Albatross for me and I'd definitely recommend leaving the wings off until the undercarriage and decals are done. Makes life a lot easier.
  16. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Pete Fleischmann in HH-60G Pavehawk Kitty Hawk 1/35   
    Hello all!
    the slow scratch building march begins!
    just have to go void by void- the cable ties are just strips of decal that go on after the harness section is in place, then a wash- you can see the difference as I plod along.

  17. Like
    Fvdm reacted to hpetiers in Revell Super Hornet with lessons learned   
    after the airbrushing of the slightly lighter shade I was content enough to more on to the next step: adding the black stripe on the back. It took a while to find the right info on the net but it was good that I persisted: The zone on the decal instructions is incorrect. So first taped off the right shape, using the squadron number as a reference for the kink in the lining: and see there, black back on my Rhino!
  18. Like
    Fvdm reacted to R Palimaka in 1/24 Airfix RCAF Mustang IV...Jan. 28, even more decals   
    Had some bench time over the last couple of nights. The model was clear-coated with a mixture of Future thinned with 99% alcohol, Liquitex levelling fluid and a touch of Vallejo Smoke. To be honest, it did not shift the metallic finish of the Alclad much, just enough to reduce some of the brightness which was something I was hoping for. Doing this all for the first time made me a bit nervous, but using a paint mule to practice helped.
    Some of the larger decals have been applied and that went smoothly, eventually. The Airfix kit roundels and fin flash could not be used afterall. I found that looking under a magnifying glass that the red parts of their decals had a red base with a microscopic matrix of black dots to darken it. I found an old set of CanForce roundels of different sizes in my stash. I think the blue is a little dark, but I can live with it.  I had hoped that my homemade masks for the codes would work, but they didn't come out sharp enough on my paint mule, so I applied the underwing codes as decals (which were homemade on my printer). So far I'm pleased, and they should blend in nicely with another thin layer of clear. Overall, I don't want to weather it too much because as I said, 424 Squadron's Mustangs were kept quite clean.
    I have now noticed a couple things I still have to do. I forgot about the fuselage fuel filler cap. It still has to be drilled out and replaced with the scratch built item I made. Also the canopy rails have to be detailed with shallow holes and slots...oh dear, my poor eyes.





  19. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8   
    After filling the ejector pin marks on the inside, the wing bulges have been glued into place.

    The wheel well roof sheets were just placed for this photo but got glued into place soon after.

    The wheel parts including the roof parts have layers of photoetch to give some 3D depth to the assembly but first I wanted to check the fit of the wheel well walls against the removals that I performed earlier.

    These dropped in fairly easily into the wing bottoms, with only some minor adjustments to the removal areas to accommodate the walls.

    With the wheel well walls simply resting in place without glue, I check the fit.

    I didn't notice any problems so I can continue adding stacking photoetch to build up the wheel wells.

    But it's getting late and I have a busy week at work so I'll stop here.  Surprised at how much work I did over the last two days... proud of myself! 
  20. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Maw1963 in 1/24 Airfix F6F-5 “for dummies”   
    Gentlemen, let me introduce myself and my Airfix 1/24th scale F6F-5 building. A lot of words have been written about this kit, a lot of reviews are on the web, and yes, a lot of building threads as well, no doubt: this kit is the hot kit of the day.
    I will not add pictures of the box or of sprues because they are well known, but I will dive soon into building. Being it my first thread, and my first time with a 1/24th scale I will appreciate any suggestion and criticism to enhance my work, they are welcome.
    Airfix has done a very good job with this kit, IMO, and most important thing, has left to us a lot of details to deal with and to add, in a word a lot of fun.
    My start is obviously from the cockpit and the first impression is that it is big, really big. Installing the P&W 2800 radial engine with its 1,34mt (52 inch) of diameter, US airplanes were large, if compared to the narrow airplanes wearing an in-line engine like the DB family, and result was a comfortable and roomy cockpit.
    I started with removing all moulding lines and preparing pieces for extra detailing, then I moved one area at time to do my job, trying to had as many details as I could.

    First of all, I removed all the plumbing lines and replaced them with lead wire and plastic card. Lead wire is a wonderful product but is very delicate and very easy to damage with pliers if you don’t pay attention, some time it’s sufficient a grim look to damage it, so I drilled holes where the clamps are, then fixed rods to reproduce clamps themselves and wrapped the first line gluing sturdily just to have a referring point and completed with all the others lines. If you pay attention with ca glue, you can do a very clean and nice work, not my case indeed, but I am quite satisfied with it.


    Pedals were detailed as well, cutting the side cylinder from structure, replacing the lower support with copper wire of the right size and moreover spacing them form the pedals, as you can see on the real bird. A simple job but I think very necessary and quite effective.


    Side consolles have been detailed too. Airifix has done a nice work here, and IMO, meaures, volumes and general appearance of these parts are good. I only reworked some particular that was over sized, sanding to size and reshaping where it was necessary. I think pictures can tell the story better than me

    Photoectched parts are from Airscale 1/24 wonderful set, of course, but IMO it represents more a F6F-3 cockpit than a F6F-5, or better to say, it reproduces both versions.  I will try to explain. Central console is provided with heater control panel and fluorescent light panel, I mean decals and holes on the panels. According to my documentation this is a feature of -3, not -5, where these panels were moved to the right console. Not a big problem, I filled the holes with putty and sanded smooth.
    On the other hand, just the right console has the heather switch and radio master switch, 22a and 90 in the picture, in form of holes on photoetched part for these, typical of -5.
    Airscale has done a smart job, IMO, leaving all the opportunities to modeler.

    As I was working in this area I made from scratch the sliding hood control  and added some lead wire here and there. I have not completed the parts with all details I want, however, as I will add them later, after the painting session.

    To be able to close the airframe, I focused on the tail, and I found this area not completely satisfactory. First of all, I felt the necessity to resize the arresting hook case, adding some sprue. I made from scratch the two missing internal frames, trying to replicate the real thing as better as I could, and reshaped the original frame to accommodate the longer arresting hook. I apologize for the crude picture of parts with blurs and dirty, I had not realized how they were until I watched on the screen, and I cleaned everything before final assembling. The raw side surface of main frame is due to several “wet fit” with plastic glue while preparing the parts.

    After a full Monday afternoon of cutting, measuring, sanding and gluing I finished my job, and I realized that not much of it will be visible when everything will be painted in dark blue and airframe closed.  I will try with different shades of blue, but I not so convinced. Well, what can I say? I am a modeler, and modellers just want to have fun, and I had.
    If the bird was a -3  with a three tones camouflage and white undersides and internal surfaces, well, it would have been nicer. A good exercise for the next Hellcat? Why not, I am sucker for a three tones bird. As the job is not perfect at all, acceptable for a “dummy” I would say, dark blue finish will be very forgiving.
    I installed Aerocraft 1/24 rear landing gear at this stage because I wanted a tight fit with epoxy glue. Only some minor preparing was necessary, and some thinning of casted pins, a normal job.
     What to say about Aerocraft set? It is very nice, beautifully casted and most important thing SOLID. IMO it is an indispensable set due to the weight of the finished model and the softness of plastic Airfix used for this kit.
    Well I am, almost, ready for painting now. Some black primer to check faults and Interior Green a gogo.
    I hope you will enjoy pictures and more soon to come, stay tuned.
    Thank you for watching,
  21. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Starfighter in 1/32 ERA-3B Skywarrior - 3D printed / scratchbuilt   
    I am sadly stuck with my MH-53E at the moment - I haven't found a source selling litho plate for a reasonable price over here in Europe (buying it in the US would mean very high shipping cost), so I have to build something else.
    The choice fell upon the project which lost out to the MH-53E when I had to decide what to built earlier this year: an ERA-3B Skywarrior. I have a soft spot for electronic warfare aircraft and esoteric subjects, so the ERA-3B is just perfect as only 8 of them were built (converted from RA-3B). Two of them had the late CLE wing (BuNo 146446 and 146447); the idea is to build one of these 2 in the early configuration with the long canoe under the fuselage. 

    I have printed the main components last year already. It's quite a big beast. It's basically an A-3B, so several changes are necessary to convert it into an ERA-3B. 

    The A-3B is a "bomber" whilst the ERA-3B is based on the RA-3B, which is a so-called "version". There are several differences such as thicker canopy framing, different main wheels, no bomb bay, different APU exhausts and the entry hatch being located closer to the front landing gear bay on the versions.  
    Here you can see the re-located opening for the entry hatch.

    The nose profile was modified as the nose of the CAD file was too pointed. One of the APU exhausts was already installed as well.


    The cockpit has to be built from scratch. I have made a cut to insert the bulkhead between the cockpit and the ECM operator compartment which is located in the former camera bay. 

    The typical tail extension was drawn in CAD and 3D printed. There were at least three differently shaped tails, this one being the "early" version. It contained a chaff dispenser. 


    The ERA-3B carried ALQ-76 pods which were also used by the EA-6A Intruder. Whilst externally similar to the ALQ-99 carried by the EA-6B, it is completely different in shape and overall dimensions. Luckily, Angelo Romano's excallent book on the Electronic Aggressor Squadrons provided the dimensions to enable me to draw the pod in CAD. More details will be added before it'll be printed; I'll probably use Eduard's PE parts for the heat sink radiators, just like Rich did in his excellent EA-6A conversion thread. 

    The canoe was drawn and printed as well; it initially was too short but has been lengthened in the meantime. 

    That's where I am at the moment; I hope this one continue to run smoothly - I'd love to finish this one until end of 2020 which would mean a new record for me. We'll see! 
  22. Like
    Fvdm reacted to themongoose in F-100D Thunderbirds SIX Foiled Again - Canopy   
    Approaching my first real accomplishment on this one. I followed crobinsonh and ericg builds and decided I wanted to make the fuselage changes so the cockpit looked right. Great guidelines in their builds. I had an idea that i think turned out cool and will save some time.
    when i cut the 2mm off the backside of the ammo panel I did it such that i got a perfect slice

    Next i took this piece and switched sides with it. That turned the rivet line around so that it would be facing aft. This replaced the 2mm wide piece of styrene. 

    i cut 2mm out of the coming to move the whole cockpit forward. Really this seems to be Aires intent as the side panels don’t fit right unless you do this. Here’s the final result vs the look of the 1:1 Thunderbird

    getting the IP to sit down and not stand proud witha PITA! would still like it to be 1mm lower but I’m just throughthe floor of the cockpit on the edges and the top of the intake duct is really thinned out so this is the final position. I’ve tested out the canopy and it just barely fits ... but it fits. 
  23. Like
    Fvdm reacted to mozart in Focke-Wulf 44D "Stieglitz"   
    Exactly what I thought too Alain!  Lothar hasn't been idle, there was a problem with the fuel bowser, but he's fixed it:

    Clever man!
  24. Like
    Fvdm reacted to mark31 in Lancia 037 rally car 1/12   
    a few details to go
  25. Like
    Fvdm reacted to shark64 in MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.   
    Wash work in progress.


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