Sir Spendalot

Whoops - thanks Kev.

Having moved to the dark side (1;48 scale!) for a while, I finally returned to the fold with a blast from my past – the venerable Airfix 1:24 Ju87B-2 Stuka. I built one of these way back in the 70s and it was the last kit I built as a kid. My original version was painted in the European theatre colours, so I thought I’d try out a desert scheme this time around. I really like the AK Real Colours so thought I’d check out their colour guide for WWII – and this is where it got a bit confusing. The colours that I’ve seen on other desert scheme builds all appear to have the RLM 79 from 1942, whereas the aircraft in the instructions is dated 1941 and would, according to the colour guide, have used the lighter earlier version of RLM 79. So, I was brave and went for the distinctly lighter, more yellow early version (my ‘bravery’ was assisted by various members of LSP in my call for help – thanks gents). The interior was upgraded with an Airscale IP (awesome detail!) and HGW seatbelts (also awesome). Anyway, here she is:

Thanks gents. I think after a bit of weathering and a matt coat, my RLM79 should look a bit closer to the 110s. I've seen a number of shots of 109E's with a much brighter sand yellow but hadn't managed to find a JU87 until MARU5137 posted the link.

Thanks for this - gives me hope that it's not too far off. Hopefully it I can knock it back a bit with some weathering

First post in a long time - and a cry for help! I've been working on the Airfix 1:24 JU87B-2 and planned to do it in the North Africa colours, albeit the Montex masks option. I was doing ok up to the RLM 65, 70 and 71 bit, then came RLM 79!!! I've been using AK's Real Colors and found them to be really good to use and, as far as I can tell, accurate. However, the RLM 79 (1941 version) seems very light and very yellow. Below are a couple of photos - any comments (preferably to say it's ok) gratefully received. Dreading the idea of remasking.

Just tried to order a few sets for delivery to the UK but it came up with an error message when I tried to pay (all details looked correct) Are you aware of any problems?

That's freaky - they look like sketches!

I built one of these in the mid 70s - so over 40 years old

Beautiful job Guy! Not wanting to hijack your post but seeing the engine and cockpit photos reminded me that I have pictures taken from an article written by the pattern maker (Pat Tranfield) for this kit. These first two show the patterns built at 1/12 scale: And this last one is Pat's own final kit build. His son still has this actual built kit. If you're interested, the full article is here: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=3276 Cheers Paul

Thanks Brian - and the good thing is you can remove the dangly bits if you decide you don't like them as they"re held in with rubber gromets (can't remember the technical term!) Thanks Ray - was really please the way she turned out Thanks Alan. Now you come to mention it, I vaguely remembering reading about the fasteners somewhere - and looking at it again, it makes perfect sense. Next time ...

Thanks John - I did have a lot of encouragement The seat belts are Eduard's own that came with the kit - along with a fair amount of other PE bits.

Now move to RFI

Hi All This is the Eduard Hasegawa 1:32 P47D Thunderbolt “Dottie Mae” A really nice, easy kit to build. The only real issues were with the instructions which left out a couple of steps and were not particularly clear at some stages. This was my first try with the Alclad shiny stuff – which was a steep learning curve, helped greatly by LSP members. Here’s a link to the full build story: And here’s some pics: Cheers Paul

Also pulling up a chair. This was the first 1/24 kit I built (at the tender age of 14!). The original pattern maker for this (and the 109) was the father of a friend of mine. When you consider what he had to work with back then (no CAD/computers), it makes the kit even more impressive.

After recoating the anti-glare panel with a matt finish, I think we’ll call this done. Here are a few snaps to be going on with. I’ll take some better pics and transfer this to RFI. Just want to say a final big THANK YOU to everyone who encouraged me through the build and came forward with the many useful suggestions (like putting the stick the right way around!!). Cheers Paul

Thanks Woody - please be as bold as you like Yep - it's been a steep learning curve with regard to the metal finishes. As it happens, the finish turned out pretty much as I was aiming for - not too shiny and with the panel variations. It is a tad grainier than I'd hoped - I'll definitely use the gloss next time. With regard to the AK Xtremes - I did use these on the undercarriage doors and, to be honest, there doesn't appear to be much difference between these and the Alclads (albeit I only used the AKs on small areas so not really a fair comparison). Anyway, quick update - bar a few small tweaks, she's finished: More pics to follow. Paul

Thanks Bill. I did notice a couple of photos (and the box art) where the staining had gone over the gear doors - so my plan now is to add staining but to work the basis that it's hiding any missing ZC paint

Fantastic build sir. I did a USN Navy version a while back and those horrible intakes stare at me every time I sit down at my desk Think I might add some FOD guards at some stage. Also wish I knew about the black basing thing before I built my Revell 1/32 Tornado - big expanses of nothing!

Thanks Gents - couldn't agree more about the decals. And now it’s on to the mucky stuff! I finished off the decals, most of which settled down nicely – just a few that needed a slice with a sharp blade and a small bucket of Micro Sol. I then sprayed on another layer of the Vallejo metal varnish and started a bit of weathering with Flory’s dark wash. A couple of pics showing the after on a couple of smaller pieces And a comparison between a wing that hasn’t been floried… …with a wing that has (hope you can see the difference - it's pretty subtle but it does bring out the panel lines) And a final pic of Dottie from the side Just have to finish of the weathering and it’s on to the final assembly! Paul

Fab finish!!

Thank you. Beginning to fret less and really enjoy the build First decaling session tonight (the big ones). The decals seem quite thick but appear to be settling down well with an application of Micro Sol (they're Cartograf - so wouldn't expect anything else) Just the stencils to do now. Paul

I am but a novice taking his first steps toward Alclad enlightenment

Final Paint stages and mask removal. I added a few more panel variations Then I had a sleepless night trying to figure out the varnish/not to varnish conundrum. I read a number of articles which were either pro or anti the whole varnishing idea. Some said it flattens the metallic effect, others said they didn’t have a problem with it. Then there was the whole “can you use micro sol solution directly on Alclads” question – a number of modellers saying don’t because it turns the Alclads black. So, I decided to use a varnish and to give Vallejo Metal Varnish a go (diluted by about 50%). I applied this before removing the masking tape and to give an idea of the reflection I think the finish is now ok and the varnish has given a nice smooth finish without losing too much of the metallic effect. Using Alclads for the first time has been a really steep learning curve – and I think I’ve only just scratched the surface (so to speak!). It seams the finishes you can achieve are unlimited – you just need to know what you’re after and how the different paints work with the various base coat options and varnishes. I’ve got some work to do on the yellow (a bit rough in places) and then it’s on to the decals. Paul

Thanks Brian. The white is definitely smoother. I'm now much closer the finish I was after - not too shiny but obviously metallic.

Here you go (more variations to be added)