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Fooesboy

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Everything posted by Fooesboy

  1. Well guys, I've managed to get a little bit more done to the Mustang. Have finished adding the wing ribs to the LHS and then thought it best to start on the RHS and have both sides of the wings progressing at the same rate. Assembly of the RHS went much smoother, partly because holding the RHS and applying the CA to the back sides of the ribs was a little eaiser and partly because I had already done one!!! Just seams like I managed to get the CA applied a bit more accurately and looks cleaner. And just for fun I thought you all might find the following photos interesting. This is the mustang wing on top of the boxes for the 1:16 Zero... yep, it's gonna be big! "Thats not a rib.... THIS is a RIB" and the spars for 1 wing...
  2. What a great subject Erwin, and you have made a fantastic job of it too!
  3. Hi John, No worries, I can't and don't expect you to be around all the time. Then there is the fact that by the time I have posted something then I have already done it! Anyway even if you had posted this coment befor I started I would still have thought you where talking about the curve to the LE not the wing root to gun bay.... Boy are you right about getting the spars in place, I had a moment where I seriously questioned my judgement of my building skills... you know.... "Oh bother, what have I done!!??!!" The line up of the ribs is what tipped me off, I had the front spar more or less spot on but the rear was out by about 0.5mm - 1.0mm just enough for the rib to sit at the side of the wing skin. I thought that I might be able to tweak it slightly but in the end it just looked horrible. The Acetone worked a treat! I thought that I would be chasing bits of smery glue all over the show.
  4. Glad you are enjoying the build, I too like threads that have lots and lots of photos but I have learnt the hard way and been ostracized on another forum for posting too many photos (by remote hosting) causing the thread to load slower.... so naturaly I'm a bit cautious. A super detaild build of one of these kits would be amazing but waaaay out of my league, I do however have my hands on a 1:16 Zero that was produced by IMCTH and sold by De Agostiti....
  5. Well the jigs have proven to be a waist of a couple of hours! Although they hold the wings well I have discovered the the bottom of the wing is curved so they have been abandoned. Gluing the spars onto the lower piece has proven to be even more difficult that I first thought. The location tabs are vauge at best, both left to right as well as forwards and backwards resaulting with a wing I was not very happy with. The wing ribs then did not line up as well as I had managed to get superglue everywhere.... So a quick bath in some acetone and I had a bunch of bits again. (Thanks John for the tips in your build threads) Next time around I had an idea of how everything should line up. Now it's not perfect but it will do for me. Hope that I'm not boring everyone... I'm having a blast!
  6. I love it! The cockpit looks great. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
  7. Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. I haven't gotten much done today, mostly head scratching and a bit of reading through the instructions and trying to visualize the steps ahead. A trup to the LHS (an hour away) was called for and I was looking forward to having a good ol spend up on some paints and other supplies, imangine my dissapointment when NOTHING could catch my interest. all I came home with was a 1/2 oz bottle of medium CA.... I have decided that I will leave the engine build at this point and wait until I have recieved my Tamiya Mustang, instead I will continue with the wing construction. Now when I look at the steps ahead I see the need for a lot of handling of the wing assemblies so I thought that a basic jig was in order, so that I would only hold onto the jig and not the PE, aslo this will alow me to stand the assembly on its side when applying the CA. I made them out of a bit of 18mm MDF with a couple of bits of .5mm ply for the hold downs and some screws stolen from mr RC stuff, then I covered the MDF with some PTFE tape so that if (should that be when) some CA finds its way under the PE then it won't be stuck to the board. It sure would suck to twist the wing trying to cut it free.... I did manage to pick up a bunch of plastic containers to store the sub assemblies in while the model is being built. All the white metal bits for the wings ready to go into the magnetic polisher tomorrow. I'm trying smaller photos to help the thread load faster, I would like to hear what you guys prefer, or should I just post less photos?
  8. I'm happy with what ever you think is best, I've never had anything published before , very cool! My full name is Chris Shannon
  9. Thanks for your advice Peter, but I am sure that a builder of your caliber would find this kit to be a walk in the park! I am surprised to see this build thread so popular, but a build thread is not a build thread without pictures! So here is how I went about experimenting with soldering the white metal. Here I have applied a small amount of flux, cut some small bits of solder and placed them along the joint. Here is the end resault, I am sure that with a bit more practice I could get this to work very well, I'm just not keen to use this kit to practice on! So I reverted to "plan B" 2 part 5 minute epoxy, however like all well made plans there is often something to get stuck in the works.... this time it was my epoxy had gone hard in the bottles! (I haven't been doing any building for quite some time) Next! "plan C" gotta love a back up plan for your back up plan right??? Out came the thick gel CA and on with sticking some bits together finaly!!! The parts fit is great almost like a Tamiya kit with a lot of parts will hold together without glue during the dry fitting stage. I must say that it is quite tempting to just give the white metal a wash to highlight the detail and build it like that. Thanks again for all the feedback.
  10. Hi John, Thanks for stopping by! All I'll say is looks can be deceiving!
  11. John used CA mostly on his kits with some epoxy I think. The PE is stainless steel not nickel plated brass and therefor does not solder so the only option with the PE parts from IMCTH is CA.
  12. OK gang, you may now start your ridicule! The heat from the soldering iron was enough to quickly melt the white metal, on my trial piece if I was very careful and QUICK it would produce a nice joint but just a second too long and the part would melt. I'm not brave enough to try this on the kit parts so I will stick (pun intended) with glue. At this stage I am planning on using epoxy for the larger and heaver main pieces and then thick CA for the add on's. Small update with photos to follow tonight if I manage some bench time.
  13. And here was me thinking that Mustang was a funny name For a girl??? (Don't know why I can't quote the post that I'm replying to???) Cheers Brian for the links, I have seen Johns work (very inspirational stuff), in fact it is his build threads that led me via the google search function to LSP in the first place. And thanks guys for the heads up regarding the melting temperature of the white metal. I will of course be testing on some off cuts before I commit to the parts. I know that most people use CA or 2 part epoxy for this job and I have an abundance of each, but in true Chris style I have a new "tool" some Nokorode flux after watching Paul Budzik's very informative youtube video on soldering and I'm looking for an excuse to try it!
  14. Yea the Desktop Mustang from IMCTH. In the spirit of trying to learn something new I am going to attempt to solder the bulk of the white metal parts of the engine together... My reasoning is that the solder "should" fill the small gaps providing a strong bond without the need for any filler, time will tell but it seams (at least before I have started) to be an interesting option!
  15. Thanks guys for the links, I'll get down to some serious reading shortly! Adding much extra detail is going to present some unique challenges that I'm not sure if I'm up to, the biggest being that I will not be able to "just" drill a couple of holes into a bulk head and insert some wire, as every part of the inside will be on display. This will mean the every wire or hydraulic line would need to be constructed along its complete length...
  16. Great work, I just might have to borrow some ideas for my project...
  17. Hi Peter, If you are talking about an ultrasonic cleaner then this is a completely different tool (yep, I wanna get me one of those too) .... there really is no hope for me when it comes to tools! I believe that it is the burnishing from the pins and the solution, a mild acid and soap combination that achieves these results. The surface becomes slightly work harden. The ultrasonic cleaner is better suited to deep cleaning of airbrush components and the like. Just think of the difference in words between Cleaner and Polisher.
  18. Hi Peter, I am sure that you would find the magnetic polisher extremely useful, especially when you look at that fine piping. I was really struggling to scrape the mould seams yet the polisher hasn't even tweaked the shape at all. Ottofrei has them in the US from $249.00 I have the 130mm unit, they list that size for $735.00 sure makes the Chinese unit at $265.00 look a lot more attractive. The quality seams to be fine for our needs in the hobby world. I have been trying to find a build thread on the Mustang but have only found John's "Ready for Inspection" thread, would you know where to look, if indeed there is one.?
  19. Hi geedubelyer, Yes you are right, I could take a look through some of the threads here on LSP and take inspiration from them. I guess that I'm the type of person who likes to "follow instructions" rather than just wing it....
  20. Hi Kevin, I have a pair of photo etch snips that are quite similar although they have a shorter blade. Quality snips make a big difference when handling PE for sure.
  21. Hi Mike, It sure is a great kit, I have dry fitted the engine together and it fits almost perfectly.
  22. Making a start today, isn't it exciting starting a new kit.... My plan is to build it mostly OOB but adding a touch of refinment as I go along, I have ordered some turned brass gun barrels from Volks, weighted tyres and colour PE from Eduard. Maybe it will fit, maybe it wont... I'll just have to wait and see. I have also ordered a Tamiya P-51 to display along side as well as to use their instructions to help with paint colour references. The first step as with all multi media kits is to identify the parts, I copied the page with the engine parts and sorted through the bag of bits.... A basic clean up then its off to the magnetic polisher. If you don't know what a magnetic polisher is then you should check out my thread here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=55486 30 minuts later i have nice shiney parts! Here you can see some of the very delicate bits that have gone through the polisher without a problem. The next step is priming and painting the engine. Does anyone have a copy of the Tamiya instructions that they would be willing to scan and post? I only need the steps for building and painting the engine, by the time I get to the next stage my own Tamya Mustang should be here. It is out of stock at HLJ and will be 4 - 6 weeks before it will be sent!
  23. After a bit of thought I am going to include here copies of the parts list and the assembly instructions for the engine to allow anyone contemplating attempting one of thses to see what they are getting into, as well as giving me a digital reference that I can then zoom in on the detail. (yes I have to use my binocular viewers to read some parts of the instructions....) The photo etch. The white metal. The first steps, building the engine.
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