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Posts posted by ivanmoe
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On 10/26/2023 at 5:36 PM, Antonio Argudo said:
Mechanik Schwarzes
However, those are just overalls, or "drillichanzug."
Otherwise, their uniforms were Luftwaffe regulation blue-grey.
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2 minutes ago, Christa said:
What is BOGO?
Buy one, get one (free)...
However, I think that the sale was more like "buy one, get 25% off the less expensive item in your order."
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13 hours ago, treker_ed said:
In these sort of scales, trying to reproduce a 1 or 2 inch (if that) feathered edge, just isn't possible, and any scale feathering would just be overscale. It would be a hard edge anyway.
Hence, my second question, although scale may be the deciding factor. Even at that, I can't offer a definitive suggestion as to what might be too small. 1/72 perhaps? Can everyone agree that the larger the scale, the more approachable free-handing "the mottles" might be?
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Quick questions for you gentlemen…
I certainly understand the utility of masks in stippling, but doesn’t using a mask produce “hard edges” on the individual tags?
If so, do you gentlemen believe that it matters?
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Had an interaction with a vendor who makes AM for WWI model planes several months back. I could sense the anguish in his comments about business, and tried to cheer him up. However, I really did get the sense that the demise of Wingnut had sealed his fate. Modelers can pick and choose who to order from, but I've got a feeling that MANY of these gentlemen are in REAL trouble in terms of sales and financial viability.
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You're five years old and you spend all your time at the museum gazing at miniatures of the real thing.
- Archimedes and MikeC
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And now your pics are displaying properly on my Windows desktop! All's well!
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1 hour ago, TimW said:
Well, that's weird--not sure why it is doing that. I'm posting them the same way I always do.
Tim W
Tim,
I checked on an IPad/Duckduckgo just now, and your pics display fine. I suspect that the issue is owed to my having Malwarebytes running in the background or Windows Update having run yesterday evening. Model looks great, BTW
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2 hours ago, TimW said:
Your JPG files are displaying as small icons, at least on my display.
Edit: Tried another browser, same deal.
Edit#2: Nothing displays in Firefox or Edge, except for links to Imgur. This is what's displaying in Firefox and Edge when I click on the links to the images:
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15 hours ago, themongoose said:
i may paint some spoons this weekend for reference here. Will cover one with yellow tape if i doI read these discussions and am struck by just how easy it would be to do a comparison with some old model parts.
Yellow sprayed overf pink, black and white, for instance.
But wait, someone has done it already:
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The USD has weakened quite a bit since the beginning of the year, so imports are going to cost more. Only other comment is that SB prices invariably come down a smidgeon when they get in their second shipment of a kit.
- CRAZY IVAN5 and esarmstrong
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4 hours ago, Dave Williams said:
I wonder if that photo of the fuselage sprue is distorted. The rear fuselage looks too short and too fat.
I superimposed an image of the fuselage from the Trumpeter kit (opacity set to 30%) over that from the GWH kit. Note that the camera that captured the Trumpy-pic didn't appear to be directly over the part:
Certainly doesn't look too bad in terms of proportions.
Credit a gentleman with the handle "Shar2" from BritModeller for the GWH pic.
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Paint guide for the prewar version is wrong. Tail surfaces should be lemon yellow, but wings should be orange-yellow, rather than what's depicted (or cited in the paint table).
- Rick Griewski and scvrobeson
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1 hour ago, cbk57 said:
I actually thought at Spruebrothers it would be $10 or so less than retail but maybe they have to sell for $109.00.
Betcha that they'll mark it down, slightly, after a couple of weeks. And almost certainly when they receive additional stock. I make those comments as a committed "Bros price-watcher."
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Are you going to do some brown overspray, or leave them as-is?
On the overspray, likely not on the lozenge decals. Rather, I'm going to apply a wash to the fuselage, tail and undercarriage. Then the plan is to apply pigments to the underside of the model from the nose to the tail, with a little extra where mud might have accumulated under the lower wing, particularly in the vicinity of the wheels/tires. Idea is to simulate dirt that would have been thrown up on the lower surfaces during takeoff, landing and taxi.
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1 hour ago, jeroen_R90S said:
Hi Ivan,
Nice work, that looks great! Those Lozenge rib tapes sure change the look over the blue ones I had on my model!
I used Tamiya X-22 gloss, but put it on fairly thin (thinned with X-20A thinner, not mr levelling thinner as I normally do just to be safe with the decals!) to protect them. For the rest I used Revell Aqua (water soluble like Vallejo) but that doesn't matter all that much since the X-22 is underneath it all over the decals.
The lozenge decals are fairly glossy already so IMHO there's no real need to put a thick coat of gloss over them for the cross decals etc.
Jeroen
Thanks, Jeroen.
I don't know if it came through in my comments, but I was in a bit of a panic when I posted. I had noticed that the ink on the decals was wearing off, post application, on areas that I was touching or which came in contact with even the most marginally abrasive of surfaces, the cutting mat in my pics for instance. Hence, my desire to get some varnish on the pieces before I did more damage.
In the void, I contacted Aviattic and Richard responded with his recommendation on the varnish:
QuoteFor the correct ‘sheen’ I find Future floor polish perfect - it has other names in other countries..
Any eggshell varnish would be suitable, applied thinly and allow to dry thoroughly.
For Matt finish (an aircraft dulled after time exposed to the elements) after you’ve finished all decalling I like to use Testors spray can.In the way of my own experience, I'd simply recommend applying a sealer as soon as practical after the decals are dry, 24 hours perhaps.
I should note that I took advantage of the "color swatches" that come with the decals, rectangular samples of the different shades, and carefully cut out and removed the areas that I had carelessly damaged. Then I simply laid the replacement segments in place.
Spraying the floor polish over the decals had resolved the abrading issue.
All's well that ends well.
Thanks again as I really appreciate your input!
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My Fokker kit is coming along and I find myself completing one of the later steps in the instructions, assembling and attaching the upper and lower wings. In this instance, I decided that applying the decals before attaching the wings to the fuselage was a necessity. I did the deed and am more or less satisfied with the results.
At this point, I REALLY believe that I need to apply a sealer before proceeding. My concern is really a function of the fairly unique physical characteristics and behavior of the decals themselves, my canvas, if you will. In particular, I'm struck by just how thin these lozenge decals are, and how easy it would be to damage them, either in handling or via a chemical reaction. I need a recommendation as to what type of topcoat to spray. I'm unsure how the usual suspects, Dullcote or Tamiya clear gloss, will impact what strikes me as a somewhat vulnerable material. I should note that I've read the Aviattic application instructions and they don't appear to address the issue of sealers.
So, it is, that I turn once more to you gentlemen for direction and advice...
Thoughts or comments?
- LSP_Kevin and jeroen_R90S
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I hate to mention Model Shapeways 3D-printed 40mm Bofors, as I don't find them truly comparable to the thread's subject.
However, they are available in numerous scales, including 1/32, and can make suitable additions to a display for plane models.
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On 9/19/2018 at 9:01 PM, ringleheim said:
The Tamiya "acrylics" work beautifully with Mr. Color Leveling thinner.
Absolutely correct.
Modelers were using MC's leveling thinner with Tamiya acrylics BEFORE Tamiya lacquers appeared on the scene. In fact, some builders didn't want to spray Tamiya's acrylic-paints WITHOUT Mr Color/Leveling Thinner.
Mig Ultra Mask transformed into Mig Blue Asphalt
in Decals & Masks
Posted
Opened a new bottle of Mig's solution for masking parts. Apart from being hard to get the lid off (had to use channel-locks), the stuff is all but solid in the container. Can the blue-goo on the inside be thinned somehow, or is this just one to toss in favor of brand-x?