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Thunnus

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  1. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from scvrobeson in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The assembly of the HGW belts took a few hours but it was easier than some of the Luftwaffe belts that I'v'e worked on.  That was because the loops in the metal buckles were large enough to easily accommodate the double fabric straps.  The loops are super tight on the Luftwaffe belts and it takes a lot of fiddling to work that second strap through the loop!
     
    I've added a few more bits onto the cockpit.  Most notably the throttle linkages which I've used four pieces of brass tubing to portray.

     
    Due to the throttle being mounted on the cockpit sidewall, it would be almost impossible to physically tie the linkages to the throttle body so I just want to get them close.  They should terminate somewhere underneath the throttle body.  To check this, I've attached the throttle using a blob of Blue Tack.

     
    With the cockpit tub in place, we can see that throttle linkages look ok.

     
    I've attached the instrument panel as well as the hydraulic bottles.  I made up an oxygen hose by wrapping a wire around thicker lead wire.  It's hard to get a good photo of the cockpit since there are so many details sticking out in every direction.

     
    I'm working on the instrument panel hood, which holds the gun sight and am creeping towards the point where I can close the fuselage halves.
  2. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from chuck540z3 in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The assembly of the HGW belts took a few hours but it was easier than some of the Luftwaffe belts that I'v'e worked on.  That was because the loops in the metal buckles were large enough to easily accommodate the double fabric straps.  The loops are super tight on the Luftwaffe belts and it takes a lot of fiddling to work that second strap through the loop!
     
    I've added a few more bits onto the cockpit.  Most notably the throttle linkages which I've used four pieces of brass tubing to portray.

     
    Due to the throttle being mounted on the cockpit sidewall, it would be almost impossible to physically tie the linkages to the throttle body so I just want to get them close.  They should terminate somewhere underneath the throttle body.  To check this, I've attached the throttle using a blob of Blue Tack.

     
    With the cockpit tub in place, we can see that throttle linkages look ok.

     
    I've attached the instrument panel as well as the hydraulic bottles.  I made up an oxygen hose by wrapping a wire around thicker lead wire.  It's hard to get a good photo of the cockpit since there are so many details sticking out in every direction.

     
    I'm working on the instrument panel hood, which holds the gun sight and am creeping towards the point where I can close the fuselage halves.
  3. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from TAG in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The assembly of the HGW belts took a few hours but it was easier than some of the Luftwaffe belts that I'v'e worked on.  That was because the loops in the metal buckles were large enough to easily accommodate the double fabric straps.  The loops are super tight on the Luftwaffe belts and it takes a lot of fiddling to work that second strap through the loop!
     
    I've added a few more bits onto the cockpit.  Most notably the throttle linkages which I've used four pieces of brass tubing to portray.

     
    Due to the throttle being mounted on the cockpit sidewall, it would be almost impossible to physically tie the linkages to the throttle body so I just want to get them close.  They should terminate somewhere underneath the throttle body.  To check this, I've attached the throttle using a blob of Blue Tack.

     
    With the cockpit tub in place, we can see that throttle linkages look ok.

     
    I've attached the instrument panel as well as the hydraulic bottles.  I made up an oxygen hose by wrapping a wire around thicker lead wire.  It's hard to get a good photo of the cockpit since there are so many details sticking out in every direction.

     
    I'm working on the instrument panel hood, which holds the gun sight and am creeping towards the point where I can close the fuselage halves.
  4. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from Doctorgaz in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The assembly of the HGW belts took a few hours but it was easier than some of the Luftwaffe belts that I'v'e worked on.  That was because the loops in the metal buckles were large enough to easily accommodate the double fabric straps.  The loops are super tight on the Luftwaffe belts and it takes a lot of fiddling to work that second strap through the loop!
     
    I've added a few more bits onto the cockpit.  Most notably the throttle linkages which I've used four pieces of brass tubing to portray.

     
    Due to the throttle being mounted on the cockpit sidewall, it would be almost impossible to physically tie the linkages to the throttle body so I just want to get them close.  They should terminate somewhere underneath the throttle body.  To check this, I've attached the throttle using a blob of Blue Tack.

     
    With the cockpit tub in place, we can see that throttle linkages look ok.

     
    I've attached the instrument panel as well as the hydraulic bottles.  I made up an oxygen hose by wrapping a wire around thicker lead wire.  It's hard to get a good photo of the cockpit since there are so many details sticking out in every direction.

     
    I'm working on the instrument panel hood, which holds the gun sight and am creeping towards the point where I can close the fuselage halves.
  5. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from Fanes in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The assembly of the HGW belts took a few hours but it was easier than some of the Luftwaffe belts that I'v'e worked on.  That was because the loops in the metal buckles were large enough to easily accommodate the double fabric straps.  The loops are super tight on the Luftwaffe belts and it takes a lot of fiddling to work that second strap through the loop!
     
    I've added a few more bits onto the cockpit.  Most notably the throttle linkages which I've used four pieces of brass tubing to portray.

     
    Due to the throttle being mounted on the cockpit sidewall, it would be almost impossible to physically tie the linkages to the throttle body so I just want to get them close.  They should terminate somewhere underneath the throttle body.  To check this, I've attached the throttle using a blob of Blue Tack.

     
    With the cockpit tub in place, we can see that throttle linkages look ok.

     
    I've attached the instrument panel as well as the hydraulic bottles.  I made up an oxygen hose by wrapping a wire around thicker lead wire.  It's hard to get a good photo of the cockpit since there are so many details sticking out in every direction.

     
    I'm working on the instrument panel hood, which holds the gun sight and am creeping towards the point where I can close the fuselage halves.
  6. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from D.B. Andrus in Are Hasegawas Bf 109G-10 blades a good replacement for the Revell Erla kit   
    The Barracuda prop replacement looks very nice.
     
    AMUR Reaver makes a prop set as well as a whole engine cowl replacement that I was very pleased with...

     
    And no discussion of 109 prop upgrades would be complete without mentioning Henri Daehne's resin masterpieces...

     
     
    Here's a comparison of the prop blades from Henri Daehne (top), AMUR Reaver (Middle) and Revell (Bottom) when I built my G-10...

  7. Thanks
    Thunnus got a reaction from Rick Griewski in Are Hasegawas Bf 109G-10 blades a good replacement for the Revell Erla kit   
    The Barracuda prop replacement looks very nice.
     
    AMUR Reaver makes a prop set as well as a whole engine cowl replacement that I was very pleased with...

     
    And no discussion of 109 prop upgrades would be complete without mentioning Henri Daehne's resin masterpieces...

     
     
    Here's a comparison of the prop blades from Henri Daehne (top), AMUR Reaver (Middle) and Revell (Bottom) when I built my G-10...

  8. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from Out2gtcha in Are Hasegawas Bf 109G-10 blades a good replacement for the Revell Erla kit   
    The Barracuda prop replacement looks very nice.
     
    AMUR Reaver makes a prop set as well as a whole engine cowl replacement that I was very pleased with...

     
    And no discussion of 109 prop upgrades would be complete without mentioning Henri Daehne's resin masterpieces...

     
     
    Here's a comparison of the prop blades from Henri Daehne (top), AMUR Reaver (Middle) and Revell (Bottom) when I built my G-10...

  9. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from zaxos345 in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Thanks Kevin!  Taking my time and keeping the various sub-assemblies separate helps when applying those tiny placard decals!
     
     
     
    Yes, maybe just some minor "dirtying" since the view into the tail well is so limited.
     
     
     
    I am using straight Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green for my ZCY.
  10. Like
    Thunnus reacted to zaxos345 in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    John, what brand is the ZCY??
  11. Like
    Thunnus reacted to LSP_Ray in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Beautiful stuff, John! I think the tail wheel section looks fine as is. Maybe a little dry brushing with a lighter color to highlight parts visible when sealed up, just to make it stand out in there, but really not needed if you don't want to.
  12. Like
    Thunnus reacted to LSP_Kevin in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Superb, John! You have an impressively deft touch.
     
    Kev
  13. Like
    Thunnus reacted to ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    The cockpit placards make my eyes hurt, but they do look the part.
     
    How did you find working with the HGW belts?
     
     
     
    Shot
  14. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from rafju in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    There's Tamiya Detail and then there is Barracuda Detail.  Hard to believe the impact these tiny decals make on the cockpit side consoles.  They are small and hard to handle and need lots of patience to place but well worth the effort.  I'm about 3/4 of the way done on the decals for this piece alone.

  15. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Those Barracuda placard decals are crazy right?  So small that some of text is not readable under my magnifiers.  Got through most of the cockpit decals and decided to dry fit some of the cockpit components together.



     
    The tail wheel well components have been painted Zinc Chromate and given a dark brown wash.  A flat coat is still to come and I'm trying to figure out if I need to do any more weathering here as it will be pretty buttoned up when the fuselage halves go together.

  16. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    There's Tamiya Detail and then there is Barracuda Detail.  Hard to believe the impact these tiny decals make on the cockpit side consoles.  They are small and hard to handle and need lots of patience to place but well worth the effort.  I'm about 3/4 of the way done on the decals for this piece alone.

  17. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Thank you very much!
     
    I finally moved forward on the central cockpit piece. This contains the two side panels of the cockpit and I've laid down the base painting.  The silver switches are old school enamel so I'm going to let this dry completely overnight, seal it with a gloss coat and then try to apply the Barracuda cockpit stencils.  After that I can start adding the other detail bits that attach to this piece.


     
    The tail wheel well needs to be finished before the fuselage can be closed up so I'm starting the work here.  Very nice detail out of the box that I will not add to but hopefully I'll be able to highlight the detail with some careful painting and weathering.  There are some ejection pin discs that need to be filled.

  18. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    I've got Mr. Bell's Volume 2 on the way so I'll have that in my hands soon.
     
    The seat belts have been glued into place.  I gave the seat a light gloss coat and then a dark brown wash to dirty the harnesses up and yes, the stitching did get highlighted as advertised.



     
    One of the sub-assemblies that have been painted.  They are hydraulic bottles of some sort.

  19. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Alfonso... thanks for the clarification about the flare pistol!
     
    About the "rudder troughs"... could it be in reference to the "plates" on top of the foot supports?  I noticed that the F4U-1a kit has plates that are glued on top of the foot supports while the Birdcage kit does not.
     
    My F4U-1a
     
     
    Birdcage F4U-1 Build

  20. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    I don't know any of that stuff is, LOL.  Except the cockpit flare pistol and I'm sad to leave that out because I was looking forward to painting it.  Maybe I'll leave it as a possible retro-fit?
     
    The cockpit on this thing is nowhere near completion.  I'm stalled out on the central cockpit assembly... keep pondering "glue then paint" or "paint then glue".  It'll be a slow, methodical combination of both approaches as I'm too lazy to be systematic about it.  I've got other things on my plate too so I can't devote 100% of my mental capacity to the task at hand.
    A few hours at the bench and I pushed myself to assemble the HGW seatbelts.  I pity ya'll who are brave enough to tackle these intricate sets in the smaller 1/48 scale... no thank you!  These weren't too difficult but still took about three hours of work to get them together.  I've read that giving them a wash will bring out some stitching detail so I think I'll give that a try after I attach them to the seat and give them a clear coat.
     


  21. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Thank you Scott and Welcome Alfonso!  It's always great to have subject matter experts visit my builds and I appreciate the input, especially since Allied aircraft are not my forte.  I love the mismatches caused by replacement parts and I think a Blue Grey port wing will make a neat visual statement.  My guess is that Sea Blue was not applied on the top of the port wing based on the photos... maybe the rest of the Sea Blue had faded to the extent that it wasn't necessary?
     
    Exterior issues aside, the work on the inner Corsair creeps along.  Here's the seat.  It's made up of four parts including a etched metal part.

     
    The rear bulkhead, which will ultimately hold up the seat was my next painting assignment.  Based on Scott's comments, I wanted to account for cockpit components painted in a Dark Green due to more than one contractor supplying the cockpit sub-assemblies.  Since no specifics were given on WHAT might be Dark Green,  I thought about doing the seat but I decided to do the seat mounting frame and panel behind it.


     
    The seat was chipped using the MIG Scratches Effect fluid and given a dirty wash.  The base metal finish was kept dark to help tone down the shine of the chipping effect.



     
    Also painted at this time was the intermediate bulkhead that houses the foot pedal controls.  Chipping was done on the pedals and also the plate beneath the pedals.  The components have not been glued together yet and I was only able to get a single shot before the assembly kept coming apart in my light box.  I've given the instrument panel some light chipping along the edges to better match the worn surroundings.

     
    And here is the control stick painted up.  Not sure what that cone thing is...almost could double for a pee-pee relief container but it is on the wrong side.  I added a wire to the end of it.

     
    The central cockpit station between these bulkheads is still to come.
  22. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Thanks Scott!  I'll keep tabs on those sites to see if I can incorporate the metal exhausts on this build.
     
    I'm still feeling out this kit and don't really have a clear path forward, especially when it comes to the cockpit.  It's a multi-step process with many, many small parts.  Most of it is contained in the central cockpit assembly but there is also stuff that needs to be hung on the fuselage walls.  It's hard to figure out what to paint, when to paint it and in what order.  I have to account for any added details (which won't be too many) and the Barracuda data stencils.  There are just so many of them and I don't want to put in myself in a position where I can't apply the decals properly.  
     
    I selected the forward cockpit bulkhead to test my cockpit painting procedure.  I'm going to lay down the base color, Interior Green, on bare plastic (no black base), highlight raised structure using a lightened Interior Green and pick out any details with a fine brush.  I'll then give it a dark pastel wash.  Since the bulkhead will be largely hidden and comprised of only two parts with no stenciling data, I thought it was a good place to start.


     
    I'll have to figure out weathering on the more accessible parts of the cockpit like the seat, foot pedals, etc.
  23. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    I just got back from a short vacation to Hawaii!  Got back on Saturday and managed to do a little work on the Corsair on Sunday.  Decided to work on the Vector resin cowling parts.  The resin comes with small bulkheads for the nose cowling.  So you have to remove the molded bulkheads first.

     
    The major surgery was performed using my Tamiya snips like a pair of scissors.


     
    I then used a dremel to grind down the raised plastic.

     
    The interior of the cowling was then sanded down with sandpaper and sanding sponges.

     
    The resin bulkhead pieces were sawed off their casting bases.

     
    I used CA glue for attachment. I'm not sure if this will be visible or noticeable once the engine inside the cowling but the additional detail is nice.


     
    I moved on to the resin cowl flaps and decided to glue in the little actuator parts.

     
    Stretched sprue was used for the cable that is strung along the actuators.  I think this detail will be very noticeable and is a nice addition compared to the plain flaps that come with the kit.

     
    That's all for now! Thanks for checking in!
  24. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Here is a short update with the painted throttle assembly.  The decals are from Barracuda's cockpit stencil sheet... very impressed with how legit it makes the assembly look.  The white glue knobs look more like blobs but I may or may not do anything about them at this point.



     
    I added the stitched beading around the padded headrest using stretched sprue.


     
    Thinking ahead to the engine, I use a piece of coiled wire to cut me those curved oil lines that go on each cylinder head.

     
    I'm taking a few days holiday with a trip to Hawaii.  So no updates from me until next week! See you then!
  25. Like
    Thunnus got a reaction from ShotMagnet in 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair - Boyington's 17740   
    Thanks guys!  Since the punch set was already out, I decided to use it to make clear dial covers for each instrument.  These little clear discs were secured into place using a drop of Alclad Aqua Gloss as an adhesive.  One step up from simply using a drop of clear gloss to replicate the glass covers.

     
    It's hard to tell unless the glare reflects off the glass.

     
    I put the instrument panel parts in a little plastic baggy for safe keeping.  I jumped over to the resin parachute to see how easy/difficult it would be to remove the casting block from the resin parachute.  I was especially concerned about the delicate loops and buckles.

     
    Holding up the resin to the light, I can see that the resin is quite thin around alot of the parachute. These areas would be fairly easy to poke through with a single swipe of a sharp knife.  But there are other parts that have some thicker resin underneath.

     
    Instead of trying to extract the piece in this state and risk a broken buckle, I sanded down the casting block until the excess resin was paper thin around the entire part.

     
    After that, tracing lightly around the parachute was enough to free it from the excess. But even with my precautions, I had some casualties.  You can see that the release cord has broken.

     
    In the end, those delicate parts I had tried so hard to protect ended up breaking anyway.  So I had to craft some replacements.  The release cord is a piece of 0.15mm lead wire and the harness clips are from some Luftwaffe belts I had in the spare box.



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