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Gloucester Nige

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Everything posted by Gloucester Nige

  1. So pleased to see the halves go together nicely.As mentioned before, it would appear that there are rumours of issues with the fuselage fit due to all the internal bulkheads. I just received the DN masks for this variant from Mitko at DN Models. I am about to put up a review of the set on my You Tube channel, "Nigel's modelling bench", I have also shown how I corrected the prop blade length and have some other reviews up too. (I won't put a link here because all we'll get is a load of comments from people who don't like videos). The IP set from Airscale is lovely isn't it? By the by, That was my kit parts that Peter used to make the set from and in his initial shots on the instruction card. I begged him to do it, sent him my insructions and parts, and the rest is history... I am also doing some work on nose weight and where to put it. I think, if we slice up some sheet lead we can get about 180-200 grammes under the cockpit floor. I'm also thinking perhaps some more sheet lead in front of the bulkhead ahead of the IP? Have you done a mock up yet to see if 300 grammes is sufficient? Looking forward to more progress on this build.
  2. I made this a couple of weeks back, I think it's pretty close? It should also be noted the floor mount is too high so if you correct the height of the armour plate it will hit the canopy. It is also too wide and too long. I did this from pictures, which is wrong inmost peoples opinions, but it looks far better than the kit supplied seat.. hell, the Airfix 1/72 seat is better!! Having done this I can also confirm the front of the seat is in the correct position in relation to the IP. I have used the kit supplied holes and moved the rear holes forward. Not that that matters much because I have now removed the seat floor platform and am replacing it wioth something a little more to scale.
  3. Hey guys, Peter has just sent through some pics of the initial test etch, mocked up on my kit parts. This lovely little set will soon be available, contact Peter to express your interest. Nice eh!!
  4. Me too Iain, OOB is great but it wears a little thin after a while eh... I haven't looked closely at anything other than the IP yet. I know nothing about the subject so cannot advise. I do have a reference book on the way from the USA so as soon as it arrives I'll check it out. The IP is very flat looking and could do with a replacement that has more defined bezels etc. Airscale to the rescue??
  5. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've seen no mention of the ball turret on this kit? Does one assume it's OK accuracy wise then??
  6. Why thank you Rog. That reply must have taken an age to write. It would appear clear that I should be looking forward to getting the ZM P-51B in my stash then.
  7. I didnt spot that in my review Kev.. I did however notice my Eratum has the 'M' missing from emergency!! So, I have the choice of Pull Hand in Emergency or Pull Hard in E ergency. (I think some splicing will be necessary)
  8. Check my sprue review vid at 27:50. Please confirm if this is in fact correct. I'm not trying tp plug my vid, it's just easier this way than saving a snip and posting it. EDIT:- I can confirm those support rods are actually there, and shouldn't be, unless you're modelling your kit in major overhaul or restoration? I now need to look into exactly what needs to be removed, just the rod or is there something at either end that has been molded on by HK?
  9. Great work Iain.. I remember you "taught" me that trick with the sharpie on the edge of the glazing, on your He111 build. I have applied it to every clear part join ever since. I'll be interested to see if it helps to disguise the joint once polished? Thanks again for posting...
  10. I have a Trumpy P-51B which I believe is way off in many areas? I have a Revell G6 which I believe it's way off in many areas? I have a Fly AR234, but am not sure what it's like? Buildability or accuracy? Will the ZM kits be better than the above? Are their 219 and 335 better than Revell/HKM?
  11. This is the same product I think, and is what I use. They are invaluable for plolishing PE or removing excess glue from PE mesh etc. The bristles do tend to break off however and must be vacuumed up immediately.. for obvious reasons. RS also do spare tips for them. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-cleaning-brushes/0514868/ I'm not sure theyre man enough for removing EPM's, but will be good for cleaning up after scraping. They are also available with a wire brush end.
  12. I would like to see this guys post removed please. I find it offensive to be told I am describing an aircraft component incorrectly, incorrectly pronounced by an Englishman describing a British Aircraft component?? and to be called a "model Nerd" is not appropriate for someone who has been modelling for 49 years and has been a member on this site for many years.
  13. And your point is?? What did I mis-pronounce? As for being called a model Nerd.. what exactly do you mean?? Please define a model Nerd?
  14. Thanks for the reply. I'm sorry, I dont remember your name!! We did meet up at Telford back in 2012, when we both parked in the same little car park just down the road. You carried in a beautiful SU-27 and I bought loads of kits. I look forward to tucking into this kit and will probably start by removing the EPM's so that I can calm down and forget they were ever there lol.
  15. I'll certainly be interested in those drawings Iain. I have B-25 and P-61 resin wheels here. Did you want me to measure up the nose wheels for you? I see True Details are going to release a resin set for this kit, but the're capped. I much prefer to see the wheel rather than a flat disc really.
  16. Hello Phartycroc. Thanks for posting those pics. I agree, those teardrops do look good, thanks for posting the method you used to affix them. Of course, the benefit in doing it this way that you havent mentioned is that they can easily be removed if you %£$& it up. Please remind me.. what is used to remove future from clear parts. I will also agree, as mentioned in my review, those clear parts are some of the clearest I've ever seen!! I will however, "wait and see" on those EPM's?? I hate the bloody things, and probably have a mental issue with them?? As I mentioned in my review, they'll not be easy to remove, and they shouldn't be there in the first place. HKM have shown what they are capable of.. this kit reflects both ends of the scale in my opinion. Still, whinging over.. it is a beautiful kit and I am really looking forward to building the cockpit. Yes.. just the cockpit!!Then we'll take it from there.... Thanks again for posting those lovely pics. May I ask.. how much of an issue was the fit between front and rear fuse sections? Can the nose turret be removed even after the fairing has been fitted over the top of it?
  17. I've obviously not been at all clear.. oh that makes a change!! NOT!! I am trying to say that, in my opinion, manufacturers should try to aviod EPM's on visible surfaces by using the tab type, or indeed adding sprue across openings with an ejector pin on it, much like WNW do. The funny part for me with the Lanc kit is that there are about a million pads on the fuselage halves, there are pads on other parts too, but on some parts, the bomb bay sidewalls for example, there are EPM's and external pads. In this post I refer to EPM's as the marks on the model surface, and I refer to pads as the external ones off the part but attached via sprue.
  18. That's what i meant Ray, little tabs all around the periphery to avoid EPM's onthe parts.
  19. Which really rubs salt into the wounds.. The fuselage sections are covered in little tabs to avoid EPM's on inner surfaces???
  20. As much as I agree with your sentiment regarding "modelling" Iain, I am surprised at your reaction to the subject regarding EPM's on modern day kits. This kit has many EPM's in very difficult to remove locations. As I see it, this is not a matter of, "modelling skill" to remove them, but more of the fact they shouldn't be there on such a well devolped expensive kit. Modern kits shouldn't have these marks on exposed parts full stop..
  21. Hi Iain, Just compared true details resin B-17 and B-24 wheels in 48th scale. B-17 26.25mm OD 9.93mm width B-24 28.25mm OD 8.81mm width I was thinking I might take a mould off a Trumpy Wildcat engine?
  22. What about the recent re-release of the Revell Truck and Jeep kit? I believe it's a VERY old mould, so may well be 1/32? I am also a Jeep fan, I have a '44 GPW and am amazed no one has ever made a Jeep in 1/16th scale???
  23. Nice work Iain.. here we go again!! Looking at your plotted image, I'm wondering what you m ake of my suggestion.. If a thick plastic spar was added to the length of the wing at around the 30% chord to make the front of the wing rigid, then slice a strip, say 3mm wide out of the lower wing along its length and pull the skin back together I think this will give you the shape you're looking for? Basically, what I'm implying is to "twist" the wing around a main spar? EDIT:- Or.. slice through the chord stiffeners at 30% chord on the lower wing and wedge the slice to open it up and push the trailing edge down. Then do the same on the upper wing but this time instead of adding card, remove a wedge and pull the trailing edge down. Sand the inner trailing edges to fit and try not to destroy surface detail. Add a main spar if necessary and stick it all together?? We must also consider the main spar in the kit already has some AOA in it.
  24. It is a shame James. The bomb bay roof, flap enclosures EPM's are the neatest I've ever seen, which sounds crazy, but the bomb bay doors are like something from a 1970's Airfix kit, No doubt Eduard will be along with sheets of Brass to cover all this up?
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